November 9, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
417 
S 
Cypripsdium Statterianum. 
This is a richly coloured and very distinct Cypripedium. It is 
the result of a cross between C. Spicerianum magnificum and C. vexil- 
larium superbum, and when exhibited at the Drill Hall on Tuesday, 
October 24tb, the Orchid Committee of the Royal Horticultural 
Society awarded a first-class certificate for it. From a sketch of 
the one flower which the plant bore the illustration (fig. 61) has 
been engraved. The dorsal sepal is principally rosy purple and has 
a distinct white tip and margin, the petals and lip being greenish 
brown. 
Cattleya Lord Rothschild. 
Much interest was centred on a plant of Cattleya Lord 
Rothschild which was exhibited at the Drill Hall, Westminster, 
on Tuesday, October 4th, by Messrs. F. Sander & Co., St. Albans. 
The plant in question bore magnificent flowers, and from one of 
these the illustration (fig. 62, see page 425) has been prepared. 
This Cattleya is a new hybrid, being the result of a cross between 
C. Gaskelliana and C. aurea. The sepals and petals are large and 
of a faint rosy mauve shade, but the lip is the most striking feature 
in the flower. This is very large, of a rich purplish crimson shade, 
with a crimped white margin, the throat and basal portion being 
orange yellow veined white and magenta crimson. The flower is 
sweet scented. 
Odontoglossums. 
Many plants that have made strong well-ripened growths will 
be producing flower spikes. A watch must be kept for slugs at the 
present time, for if they are allowed to exist a large number of 
spikes may be ruined in a night. A little cotton wool placed 
round the spike is an admirable plan, but the safest is to suspend 
the plants from the roof until the spikes are firm and thus safe 
from the ravages of these most troublesome pests. Keep a sharp 
look oat for aphides, and eradicate them at once, for when they 
are allowed to establish themselves upon the flower spikes they 
soon injure and deform the blooms. I am no advocate for fumigat¬ 
ing these plants, but remove these insects by means of a soft brush 
and a little weak tobacco watsr. Shading is often practised late in 
the autumn by many growers, but ours was removed early this 
year for the purpose of allowing those growths to become 
thoroughly matured. The plants must not be allowed to suffer 
by the want of water either at the roots or in the atmosphere. 
Keep them close to the glass and admit air freely when 
favourable, and the flower spikes will be stout and compact instead 
of weak and slender.— Specialist. 
WINTER CUCUMBERS. 
In some gardens it is found to be a difficult matter to produce a 
regular supply of good Cucumbers during the winter, and especially if 
the necessary heat is not to be obtained from hot-water pipes. Where 
all requirements are at hand, however, partial failure sometimes results. 
There are several causes of failure—namely, sowing the seeds too late, 
or rooting cuttings late if they are preferred, after treatment as regards 
the growth of the plants, and attention to their roots. 
If the plants are raised from seeds or cuttings they should be strong 
and in good condition for planting by the middle of October at the 
latest. If possible they ought to be grown in a house which affords 
plenty of light. The soil must consist of one-half leaf mould and one- 
half good sound loam well mixed together. Whether pipes be placed 
under the bed or not, a hotbed composed of strawy litter and leaves 
ought to be made up if room will permit. The soil when placed upon 
the bed need only be so thick as to cover the manure, but where the 
plants are to be planted mounds of soil must be formed, allowing one 
barrowload to each plant. Avoid planting too closely, 5 or 6 feet 
asunder will answer better than 3 feet. The plants should not be unduly 
excited in the autumn. A sturdy short-jointed growth must be the aim 
of the cultivator. 
In dealing with the training of the shoots of Cucumber plants during 
the summer I always like to pinch the side shoots at every joint, but in 
the winter I prefer to leave three joints before pinching. The advantage 
of planting a good distance asunder will be here apparent. The shoots 
ought to be allowed plenty of room to grow in, affording light, and 
giving solidity to them. Constant attention must be given to pinching 
and tying the young growths. The prunings should be no more than 
may be carried out in the attendant’s apron each week from a large-sized 
house. If crowding of shoots occur, and wholesale thinning follows, 
three weeks or a month’s dearth of Cucumbers results. Only a few 
fruits may be left on the plants at one time ; each fruit as it becomes fit 
must be cut off forthwith. 
Additions of soil mixed the same as that recommended for planting 
in may be placed, after being warmed, on each mound once a fortnight 
as atop-dressing, and pressed down firmly. If this practice be regularly 
carried out no feeding with liquid manure will be necessary till after 
Christmas. The temperature of the house must be regulated according 
to the state of the weather outside. A genial temperature should be 
maintained, not too much moisture, especially in frosty weather, but 
sufficient to keep the plants in good health and free from red spider. 
Syringe the foliage well on fine days, not later than 2 P.M. Model and 
Telegraph are good varieties for winter culture.— Geo. Garner. 
WINTER TREATMENT OF VIOLETS. 
Here the culture of Violets in the winter is made a speciality, two 
pits, each 64 feet long, facing due south, and adjoining the outside 
borders of the principal range of vineries, and three three-light frames 
FIG. 61.— cypripedidm statterianum. 
being devoted to their culture. In addition to these two or three 
hundred plants are grown in 6-inch pots for standing on the side stages 
in the conservatory and for intermixing with decorative plants in the 
Castle. For some weeks after planting out our plants (single crowns) 
early in May, in rows from 12 to 15 inches asunder, and the same 
distance apart in the row, they made very little, if any, growth, notwith¬ 
standing the fact that they were watered every afternoon, and the 
soil between the rows stirred from time to time with the Dutch hoe. By 
continuing the above operations energetically, however, and keeping 
the runners well pinched after free growth commenced, we have 
been rewarded with fine “ many-crowned ” plants, every one of which 
have been transferred to their winter quarters. 
Prior to planting additional leaves were put into the pits and •well 
trodden, following with a coating of short manure to the thickness of 
about 2 inches, and over this about 9 inches of a mixture consisting of 
five parts fairly good soil and one of short manure, the whole having 
been passed through a half-inch sieve before being placed in the pits and 
frames. The plants were taken up with good sized balls, the straggling 
roots being cut back to the soil through which they pushed, and then 
planted in rows about 1 foot asunder and at the same distance in the 
rows. The plants in each succeeding row were set triangular, which 
manner of planting affords more room for light and air to play amongst 
them than if they were planted squarely—opposite each other—the soil 
being preised firmly about the individual plants in planting. The 
plants must not be put any deeper in the soil than they were before, 
and keep them close to the glass without touching it. After planting we 
