January 5, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
13 
both sides, temperately expressed, as in the able letter of Mr. Jukes. 
“Alpha” is severely logical, and Mr. Wells is entitled to his explana¬ 
tion and comments. We do not know whether he is the member who 
was condemned or not, as we have received no official information on 
the point. We have been asked by the officials to publish the name 
of an individual against whom charges were made and who was not 
condemned for them ; the same officials refrain from publishing the 
name of a member whose action they have condemned.] 
Chrysanthemum Pidsley's Favourite. 
This Chrysanthemum was raised by Mr. W. K. Woodcock, but the 
rage for large exhibition flowers has kept it in the background. It is 
one of the most effective decorative plants for the conservatory, having 
a most peculiar colour which is difficult to describe. A deep reddish 
salmon will, however, give an idea of its colour. Its flowers are 
similar shape of William Stevens. My plants were grown naturally, 
but slightly disbudded, and they had about a hundred flowers on each 
plant in 9-inch pots.—J. L. 
Golden Wedding Chrysantheaium. 
The arrangement of our controlling the European stock of this 
variety, as stated in the Journal of 'Horticulture a few weeks ago, and 
sent out by the well-known American firm of Messrs. Peter Henderson 
and Co., has been cancelled.— John Laing & Sons. 
Chrysanthemum John Lambert. 
Whether this variety is recognised or not in the N.C.S. catalogue, 
it certainly speaks favourably respecting it. I quote the following 
from the centenary edition;—“John Lambert, which originated as a 
sport from Lord Alcester, is similar in form to its parent, and of 
practically the same colour as Golden Queen, and is perhaps the best 
stock of that variety.” With that sentence I fully agree, and if John 
Lambert is the best stock (and therefore an improvement), why not act 
fairly and give the raiser the credit of it ? I have for the past two 
seasons grown Golden Queen, Emily Dale Improved, and John Lambert, 
to fairly test the merits of each, and I have no hesitation in saying that 
the latter variety is decidedly the best. The growth of the plant is more 
free ; I have found it more constant, and the flower is of better build, 
and possessing more solidity than either of the others. 
This is just what one would expect, it being a sport from Lord 
Alcester, which is without a doubt the most perfectly built incurved in 
cultivation. Being fully convinced of the superiority of John Lambert, 
and taking into consideration that it has been awarded a F.C.C. under 
that name, I should think it a very unfair proceeding were I to exhibit 
this variety under its proper name, to find some other person had erased 
it and substituted another.— F. Hopkins, The Chestnuts, Walton-on- 
Thames. 
The N.C.S, have recognised John Lambert. In the first place the 
Floral Committee gave undressed blooms a first-class certificate as a 
distinct variety ; then the Catalogue Committee two years back classed 
it as synonymous with Golden Queen of England and Improved Emily 
Dale, describing J. Lambert as perhaps the best stock of the type. I 
find some of our best exhibitors have thrown Golden Queen of England 
away, and kept J. Lambert as advised by “ Lancastrian ” last year in your 
paper. I had no intention of again raising this controversy, only I notice 
where Mr. Molyneux judges I find Golden Queen of England substituted 
for John Lambert. This is misleading to the public, and I do not find 
any other member of the N.C.S. acting in this way when judging at 
shows. I wish to ask Mr. Molyneux, as he seeks to shelter himself under 
the N.C.S. rules, if he, when jud>4ing at shows where the National Society’s 
Catalogue is to be the guide, goes by its rules in preference to his own 
judgment ?— John Lambert, Powis Castle. 
Chrysanthemum Mrs. Alpheus Hardy. 
On page 632, last vol., I notice inquiries for successful culture of the 
above Chrysanthemum. Having been fairly successful with it this season, 
I venture to give my method of treatment. I would remind cultivators 
not to discard this variety too hastily, as many have already done. 
When its culture becomes better known it will be seen more frequently 
on the exhibition board than hitherto. Propagated and grown the 
same as the general stock, with the same soil and mode of potting, allow¬ 
ing it to form its own natural break, retaining three shoots and saving 
the crown buds when they show, and housing with the general collec¬ 
tion would, according to my experience, only end in failure. When 
well grown I consider this one of the finest white Chrysanthemums 
extant. I have had blooms this season 7 inches in diameter and 
3^ inches deep ; but I find them very liable to damp, and do not keep 
good more than a week at the most. I have exhibited flowers on two 
occasions this season, but unfortunately they were much reduced in size 
through having being a trifle too early, and suffering with damp as well. 
I would advise striking this variety about the middle of December. 
Insert the cuttings singly in thumb pots nearly half filled with small 
broken potsherds, using a compost of peat, leaf soil, and sand in 
equal parts, well mixed. Put a little sand for the bise of the cutting 
to rest on when inserting. Do not water if the soil is in a moderately 
moist condition (as it should be) but give a light sprinkle with a fine 
rose can, as the cuttings strike better than if watered too much. When 
rooted, do not be in too great a hurry to shift into larger pots, but keep 
them in a temperature of 45° to 60° near the glass. The cuttings must 
on no account be placed in cold frames. About the end of February | 
shift into small 60’s, using the same compost as for striking, adding a 
little pounded charcoal, well draining the pots and potting rather 
lightly. At the same time place a small stake to each plant, as the 
stems are very very brittle, and must be kept well tied up all through 
the season. When recovered from potting place on a shelf in the 
greenhouse near the glass. Be careful with the watering, as the plants 
are very impatient of too much water at the roots in all stages of growth 
About the first week in April the plants will require shifting into 4S 
pots, using two parts fibrous peat, one part light fibrous loam, one part 
leaf soil partly decayed, with some pounded lime rubbish, charcoal, and 
sand well mixed. Pot a little firmer than before, but very firm 
potting must not be practised, as it is a feeble rooting variety. 
Provide good drainage ; a light position on the front stages of the 
greenhouse near the glass will now be found suitable, as the shelves 
during April are too hot and dry for Chrysanthemums. As soon as 
the roots have taken hold of the new soil take out the tips of the 
shoots, and immediately they break rub all away except the strongest 
one and encourage this to grow, as it is from this growth that the flower 
will be produced. As soon as the plants require shifting into larger pots, 
which will be about the middle of May, they may receive their final 
potting, three plants going into a 12-inch pot, which should be nearly 
half full of carefully placed drainage, covering this with a little rough 
fibrous peat. The compost for this potting should consist of two parts 
fibrous peat, two parts light fibrous loam, one part half-decayed leaf 
soil, some charcoal, broken lime rubbish, and sand well mixed ; no 
manure must be added to the compost. Work the soil well between the 
plants with the hands moderately firm, finishing off evenly on the 
surface ; do not use the potting stick, firming with the hands is quite 
sufficient. Place a stake about 6 feet long to each plant. Be careful 
with the watering after potting. Still keep the plants in a greenhouse 
with plenty of light and air. 
About the middle of July place them outside in a sheltered sunny 
position to ripen the wood. Give the plants support to prevent their being 
blown over by wind, and keep the shoots well tied. About the end of July 
or beginning of August the buds ought to show ; these must be saved in all 
cases. Take the plants inside again about the end of August—into a 
light airy house with plenty of air night and day for a time, according 
to external conditions of the weather. No artificial stimulants must be 
applied to this variety, only a little weak soot water occasionally. If 
all goes on well the plants ought to be in flower and in good condition 
about November 6ch. When showing colour they are best kept in a 
rather dry warm temperature, as they open a purer colour, and are not so 
liable to damp. Any attempt to keep the flowers in a low temperature 
after being taken from the warm house will end in failure, as they 
soon damp. They will keep far better on the plants in the warm dry 
atmosphere than cut and placed in bottles in cool places—at least this 
is my experience. 
This was the first of the hirsute varieties sent out, and, as far I 
have seen it is still the best when in good form, and worthy of more 
extensive cultivation.—JAMES Hawkes, Lillingstom House Gardens, 
Buckingham. 
Profitable Chrysanthemum Growing. 
Respecting the amount of profit to be realised by the cultivation 
of the Chrysanthemum nothing definite can be stated, for that point 
greatly depends upon circumstances, which we are often reminded 
“ alter cases.” But it is obvious that the grower who is able to dispose 
of his cut blooms privately has a decided advantage over the ordinary 
market grower. The former has the field to himself and can to a great 
extent fix his own prices. In this way he supplies the public at first 
hand, and without the aid of an intermediate party. This increases the 
value of his produce, and fron this point of view the Chrysanthemum 
is a promising and lucrative investment. 
The market grower stands on very different ground. He can dispose 
of large quantities, but he has to take the prices that rule in the market, 
whether they are high or low. Good quality no doubt tells in the long 
run, but this fact is not always so apparent as it might be. Frequently 
he has to contend with glutted markets, depression of trade from bad 
weather, and numerous other causes, when the supply being far in excess 
of the demand superior blooms have to be sacrificed at a very low figure. 
The reverse of this is sometimes seen, when a particular colour or variety 
is scarce, a high price can then be obtained for second-rate flowers. 
It is no part of ttie market grower’s business to supply cuttings and 
young plants, therefore the varieties in general use are comparatively 
few in number. It does not matter whether they are old favourites or 
recently introduced novelties, but their selection is the result of careful 
consideration. The leading features in market Chrysanthemums are 
colour, size, a vigorous habit of growth, and floriferousness. Preference 
is likewise given to those sorts that can be kept longest without losing 
colour or otherwise deteriorating. 
The object in view is to secure a continual succession of flowers, so 
that as fast as certain varieties are disposed of others are opening ready 
to replace them. The Desgranges and earlier varieties are grown in 
quantity, and are of'en flowered before they need removal indoors. On 
them I need not dwell, so I pass to the commencement of the Chrysan¬ 
themum season proper, which I will fix about the middle of October. 
Operations commence with Lady Selborne, James Salter, and Mons. 
W. Holmes, representing respectively effective shades of white, pink, and 
crimson. These are followed closely by La Triomphante. This compara¬ 
tively new Chrysanthemum is an immense favourite with market 
growers, judging by the way they have taken it up. 
By this time a clearance of the early sorts has been made, and Source 
d’Or, Mdlle. Lacroix, and Elaine come to the front. The two first 
