60 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 19, 189S. 
the early morning, if all the previous day’s food had been disposed of, 
the smaller birds unceremoniously tapped the window, much to the 
astonishment of the housemaid, who nevertheless understood the call 
and supplied the wants.—Y. B. A. Z. 
WOKK-J’oiitheWEEII 
a 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Pruning Outdoor Vines. —During favourable weather the first 
opportunity ought to be taken to prune and regulate the growths of 
outdoor Vines. This work can often be done when it is impossible to 
approach fruit trees in the open owing to the state of the ground. 
Vines on walls are usually situated in warm sheltered positions, and 
even if the ground around is covered with snow, but the temperature 
ranges above freezing point, there is little difficulty in carrying out all 
the necessary details. 
Treatment of the Old Branches.— Vine ought to be allowed to 
retain a large number of old, thick, gnarled branches, as they are useless 
to produce fine bunches, but invariably give samples of fruit lacking in 
quality and deficient in flavour. Such branches as these should be cut 
out, a few every year, young growths being trained to take their place. 
Where some forethought has not been exercised to encourage suitable 
young canes for taking the place of old branches it is not advisable to 
severely thin out the latter, but a start may be made, taking one or two 
of the oldest and worst placed out first, severing them neatly with a saw 
near the base of the plant. 
Treatment of Young Canes ayid Lateral Growth. —Strong young canes 
that may be intended to replace old branches must be cut well back if 
they have grown very long, to firm, bold buds on hard, well-ripened 
wood. It is only buds of this kind which produce strong growth, an 
essential when extension is needed, as well as for securing serviceable 
bunches of fruit. The lateral shoots on older canes and branches ought 
in most cases to be pruned back to a few good buds at their base. If 
suitable buds, however, are not situated low enough they must be 
selected at longer distances at the risk of causing the formation of long 
spurs. This can be partly avoided by retaining the growth from a lower 
bud in addition, cutting off any fruit bunches that show on it, but 
encouraging it to grow strongly and produce large leaves. Bold bads 
will thus be built up at shorter distances from the main stem, the 
shoots being shortened at the next winter’s pruning to them. 
Cleansing the Rods. —It is not generally the case that outdoor Vines 
are much troubled with insects, especially if well managed. But, of 
course, through neglect and inferior cultivation they are liable to 
attacks of'red spider, thrips, and mealy bug—the same as Vines under 
glass. If any signs of insect infestations are apparent, the whole 
surfaces of the Vines should be thoroughly well washed with softsoap, 
4 ozs. to the gallon, dissolved in boiling water. In bad cases they may 
have this preliminary washing first, then receive a dressing with the 
soap solution, to which a wineglassful of petroleum has been thoroughly 
worked-in, applying it to the wood with a brush, with which every crevice 
in the bark may be penetrated. All loose bark should be removed 
previous to dressing the Vines. 
Cobs and Filberts. —A plantation of Nuts is a welcome addition 
to the hardy fruit garden, and if trees are not planted between standard 
Apples and Pears a piece of ground might be set apart for them. They 
enjoy liberal treatment, and pay for it by producing good crops. Like 
the majority of fruit trees, the chief essential in their cultivation is a 
sufficiency of light and air to every part of the trees. This can only be 
accomplished by planting trees in the first instance wide enough apart, 
from 9 to 12 feet being a good distance. 
Planting. —The soil must be well prepared by deep digging and 
manuring as soon in the winter as possible. Strong suckers are the 
best for planting, as from these bushes can be readily trained into the 
desired shape. Planting may be done in dry weather in February or 
March. Choose suckers with a single stem possessing a number of 
fibrous roots, which will hasten the establishment of the plants. 
Trained Bushes. —Whatever mode of growth is ultimately encouraged 
it is imperative that a start be made by cutting back the tall sucker 
stem to within 15 inches of the ground. The shoots which start from 
this shortened single stem may be reduced to three of the strongest. 
These, again, must be shortened back the following winter to within a 
few inches of the main stem. From the next breaks sufficient shoots 
must be selected to form the bush, each shoot being trained outwards at 
equal distances apart, the whole of them forming a circle with a clear 
centre. While the process of shaping the trees is going on the leading 
growths are each year reduced to about a foot in length at the winter 
pruning until a height of 6 feet is reached, no further extension being 
then allowed for medium-sized bushes. At each winter pruning the 
current year’s shoots or side growths are shortened back, as well as the 
old bearing wood, the slender growths or spray which bear the catkins 
being left alone. 
Unpruned Bushes. —Larger and more prolific bushes can be produced 
after the trees have obtained the requisite number of branches by avoid¬ 
ing the annual pruning altogether. The branches, however, must be 
trained thinly in the first instance, and whenever any disposition to 
overcrowding is shown remove the superfluous portions. With every 
facility for extension and plenty of light and air among the branches a 
height of 20 feet will be reached by the bushes and half that distance in 
diameter attained. Such bushes or trees are immensely prolific. They are 
suitable for some gardens but not all, the dwarfer restricted trees being 
better adapted where space is limited, also where Nuts are grown between 
the lines of other fruit trees. 
Varieties. —Cosford Cob is large and early. The Red and White 
Filberts are good, and should be included, while the Kentish Cob, one 
of the best and most prolific, will produce the latest supplies. 
General Prunin^r. —Proceed as the weather permits with all 
pruning of fruit trees in open quarters, as well as pruning, nailing, and 
cleansing of wall trees. Apples, Pears, Plums, and Cherries needing 
attention first. Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots having had the old 
bearing wood removed, being in no hurry to be closely secured to warm 
walls. They are, in fact, better a distanee away, except during the 
prevalence of very sharp frosts, when the walls afford protection. Well 
ripened wood, however, is not easily injured by frost. 
Birds and Fruit Buds. —In situations where troublesome birds 
are numerous and attacks on fruit buds expected, dredge a mixture of 
soot and lime, the latter predominating, over the buds, which will act as 
a deterrent and do no harm to the buds or trees. Gooseberries usually 
need most attention, especially if pruning is completed. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and laTectarlnes. — Earliest House. — Continue the 
instructions given in our last calendar under this heading as regards 
setting the fruit, and when that is effected an occasional syringing on 
fine afternoons will assist the frui's to throw off the remains of the 
blossoms. Avoid, however, regular and heavy syringings at this stage, 
as the foliage is tender and evaporation not great. Sufficient moisture 
will be maintained on dull days by damping the path and border in the 
morning and afternoon ; if syringing is necessary to cleanse the trees of 
insects at such time, let it be done early in the day, so that the foliage 
can become dry before night. When the fruits swell and are too 
thickly placed, remove a few of the smallest and those on the under 
side of the branches, but do not thin too severely or fitfully, removing a 
few at a time. Disbudding also must be done cautiously with early 
forced trees, taking! a few of the foreright shoots—upper or lower side 
of the trellis—first, then proceed in a similar manner with the others, 
only a few being removed at a time, commencing on the most forward 
parts. Care must be taken to leave a growth at the base of the present 
bearing sho t to supply its place another season, and another must be 
left on a level with or above the fruit to draw the sap to the fruit; the 
upper shoot having its point pinched off at the third leaf, unless it be 
necessary for the extension of the trees, when it should be trained in its 
full length. 
If the trees are extending the shoots necessary for their forma¬ 
tion must be trained 12 to 15 inches apart. Instead of disbudding 
extensions — shoots not required for laying-in to form the bearing 
wood of next—pinch the superfluous shoots at the third leaf, and 
to one afterwards, then they will form spurs. The bearing shoots 
on extension - trained trees .should be about 15 inches apart, all 
being given space so that the foliage is fully exposed to light and air, 
and room for training in a successional shoot another year. Over¬ 
crowding is prejudicial to the crop, and does not favour the succeeding 
one, therefore leave only the shoots essential to the proper furnishing of 
the trees, and those required to bring the current fruit to perfection and 
provide for next year’s crop. If fermenting materials have been used 
inside the house, still continue to turn and add fresh but properly 
sweetened, as rank manure will give out ammonia too powerfully, and 
the foliage will be injured, and the young fruit may drop. 
Evaporation troughs charged with liquid manure are useful not only 
in preventing the atmosphere becoming too dry in the immediate 
vicinity of the pipes, but in giving off ammonia. Failing fermenting 
materials or evaporation troughs, damp the house in the afternoon 
after the foliage becomes dry with liquid manure, the drainings 
of stables or cow houses being suitable, not using the liquid too 
strong ; if neat, dilute with six times the bulk of water. Inside borders 
will need attention for watering, making an examination, and when 
found necessary afford a thorough supply. Weakly trees may be 
assisted to swell their fruit in the early stages by a supply of liquid 
manure, but it must be given to trees having a tendency to exuberance 
with great care, whilst healthy trees will swell their fruit much better 
by judicious feeding from the start. Always apply water or liquid 
manure at or slightly in advance of the temperature of the house. 
If aphides appear fumigate moderately on two or three consecutive 
evenings, but very carefully, as an overdose skeletonises the leaves, and 
may cause the fruit to fall; or syringe with a solution of softsoap, 2 ozs. 
to a gallon of water, and half pint of tobacco juice being added, it is 
good against aphides, red spider, and mildew. The following may also be 
used :—Steep 4 ozs. quassia chips in a gallon of water overnight, boil a 
quarter of an hour, and add 4 ozs. of softsoap to it as it cools, stirring 
and straining. This may be applied to shoots infested with brown 
aphis with a brush, so as to dislodge the pests ; and, adding a gallon of 
water to the mixture, the trees may be syringed with it, syringing the 
following day with clear water. Mildew is seldom troublesome in 
forced houses, because the syringing washes off the spores of the fungus ; 
but if it should appear dust promptly with flowers of sulphur. Ventilate 
carefully in clear frosty weather, avoiding cold draughts, as these 
cripple the foliage, and may cause the fruit to fall. 
Trees Started at the New Year. —When the trees started early in 
January are swelling their buds and the flowers showing colour, the 
