88 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 2, 1898. 
receives every ray of sun, which is of great importance in the early part 
of the year. 
With respect to the amount of piping required, we shall have to 
consider the dimensions of the house. The usual size for early vineries 
is about 40 feet in length, 14 feet high at the back, the same in width, 
and 3 or 4 feet high in front. For efficiently heating a structure of 
these dimensions, six rows of 4-inch pipes the whole length of the house, 
and two rows at each end would be required. The vineries I have are 
larger, and have eight rows of pipes, which gives 1 foot of radiating 
surface to about 16 or 17 cubic feet of air. This we find quite sufficient. 
The dimensions previously given would average about the same pro¬ 
portions. It is far better to have a sufficient amount of piping mode¬ 
rately warm than a less amount which during severe weather has to be 
highly heated, producing anything but a congenial atmosphere. The 
flow pipe will be connected with the main at right angles, another 
connection rising from this into the house by the inside of the 
pathway. 
Here I would point out the error of introducing the latter pipes at 
too great a height vertically from the first connection. I have them 
rising 5 fee', and at times the greatest difficulty is experienced in 
getting the heat into such houses, probably from friction at this 
junction, tne heat invariably flowing to the easier gradients, and also 
leaving these points when there is not much pressure. It would be 
better if the connections from the main were brought into the house by 
an easier gradient. Such pipes should never have such a stiff rise, 
especially close to a number of connections, neither should flow pipes 
be arranged so that they have to dip under pathways and be fixed at a 
lower level than the returns until they rise again into the house, as 
the circulation is then never satisfactory. It might answer, but it is 
not the correct principle to work upon. 
Where the pipes enter the house, good air-tight screw-down valves 
should be fitted on both the flow and return. There are various ways of 
arranging these six pipes. Sometimes four flows are taken along the 
front wall, converging into two single pipes at the other end of the 
house, forming the returns, which are carried alongside of the pathway 
on a parallel with the flows, and are connected with the main return. 
Air pipes should be fitted at the highest point of all flow pipes. At 
other times the pipes are arranged at equal distances over the floor of 
the house. In some instances one flow pipe is taken along the front 
wall and around the other end of the house, another 5 feet from it and 
parallel with it, joining it at right angles. These two are then con¬ 
verged into a single pipe. Then, supposing a tank was erected at the 
incoming end, which prevented the return being carried through into 
the main, we should have to continue the single flow pipe as far 
as the tank, bring the return back underneath it to the point where the 
two flows meet, where they are continued in a corresponding manner 
to the flows (underneath them), and on reaching the end of the house 
are connected into a single pipe and join the main return. This is not a 
good plan, and only adopted when unavoidable. Or we will suppose 
that two flow pipes are taken from the pipe entering the house and are 
carried along the front wall, two more flows 5 feet from them, and on a 
parallel with them, are carried to the opposite end of the house. These 
two sets of pipes here converge into two single pipes forming the 
returns, which are carried back 9 or 10 feet from the front wall and 
parallel with it, and connected into a single pipe into the main. This 
last-named system is undoubtedly the best, for the heat circulates 
quickly and equally, which early in the season is important. Some¬ 
times the pipes are arranged similar to the above, commencing 18 inches 
from the front wall. Either plan will answer. I have never seen that 
it made any material difference. In any case the pipes should be 
arranged near the surface, for heated air ascends, and if fixed higher a 
portion of the heat is lost. 
Evaporating troughs should be cast on some of the pipes, and 
arranged at equal distances apart. These should be five in number, 
6 feet in length, and 6 inches wide. It will be necessary to form brick 
piers on a solid foundation at every 9 feet to carry the pipes, which may 
be packed upon these or carried on short iron standards. Slate cisterns 
for holding water should be provided in all such houses, and heated 
with a coil of 2 or 3-inch pipe, this being connected with the flow and 
return mains with pipes of less diameter, and fitted near the tank wdth 
stop-taps. These pipes ought to be inde;/endent of any required for heat¬ 
ing the house. Houses are often built without regard to this matter, but 
it is a great mistake. The pipes should be painte-i black, this being best 
for radiating heat; and the mixture for the purpose generally used 
after they are in working order is boiled linseed oil with just enough 
lampblack to colour it; if too much of the latter is used it rubs off. 
The pipes should be made slightly warm when applying the mixture, 
and not be coated too thickly, this preventing radiation. The troughs 
should be painted red to preserve them, which also gives a smart 
appearance to the house. All joints of pipes must be effectually packed. 
Some use indiarubber rings, and fill in with cement; others use spun 
yarn and red lead ; but the first-named method is the quickest and best 
if properly done. Joints near the fire should be made with iron borings. 
The above conditions apply to such Grapes as Black Hamburgh and the 
like. Muscat of Alexandria would require rather more piping if forced 
early. In the north of England this fine Grape should be cultivated in 
lean-to houses. 
Peach and Other Houses. 
For the early forcing of Peaches a house of similar dimensions would 
be suitable, only a less amount of piping would suffice. Four rows of 
4-inch pipes the whole length of the house and two rows around the 
ends should be employed. These may be arranged by bringing a single 
pipe from the main and connecting two flows; these ought to be con¬ 
tinued along the front wall to the opposite end of the house, then they 
will descend by the side of the pathway, joining the main return in a 
corresponding manner to the flow. This amount of piping gives 1 foot 
of radiating surface to about 24 cubic feet of air. Valves, of course, 
should be fitted on both the flow and return where they enter and leave 
the house. Both valves in such positions must always be regulated 
equally, otherwise it is apt to derange the circulation. Sometimes single 
pipes are arranged continuously at equal distances over the whole of the 
floor of the house—half forming the flows, the rest the returns. If 
heated by a small boiler especially for the purpose, often without 
valves, this is a most objectionable system for several reasons, space 
not allowing explanations. Evaporating troughs will be needed 
according to requirements. 
Fig houses, for producing early fruit, should be of the same propor¬ 
tions as for Peaches, but half the length would suffice ; for, as a rule, 
they are not in such demand as the preceding fruits. They require 
similar treatment to Peaches with regard to temperature, therefore the 
same arrangements of pipes would answer. 
Succession houses would require the same number of pipes—one less 
might answer in some localities, but it is far better to have enough than 
to find out at some critical period there is no possibility of keeping the 
temperature up. If houses are of different dimensions to these given, 
the heating power required can be ascertained by calculating by the 
same ratio, or other means will suggest themselves. 
Cherry houses, if as large as those previously named, would require 
a similar amount of piping if the trees were forced early. In warm 
localities two flows and one return might answer, high temperatures not 
being necessary. 
Late vineries and orchard houses are often constructed in the span- 
roof form, running north and south. For summer culture this form is 
best, as they contain a large volume of light and air. The east side gets 
the morning sun when at meridian its rays strike the top of the roof and 
south end, while the west side get the afternoon sun. 
The span-roof vineries under my charge are 40 feet long, 24 feet wide, 
13 feet high at the apex, and 4 feet high at the sides. These are heated 
with ten rows of 4-inch pipes. For late Grapes requiring plenty of heat 
I find they do not give too much heating surface. The flow pipe on 
entering the house branches right and left to the sides ; these are 
continued along the wall on each side until they reach the opposite end, 
and then return parallel with the flow 9 feet from it. Two more flows 
are connected at right angles to the incoming flow pipe, 5 feet from the 
front wall, and are carried to the other end of the house, where they are 
connected into a single return pipe, which runs side by side and parallel 
with the other return. These, when they reach the end of the house 
from where they started, are connected into a single pipe into the main. 
Flow and return 2-inch pipes are carried under the pathway from 
the mains for the purpose of heating the cistern at the end of the 
house. 
For houses containing such Grapes as Black Hamburgh eight rows 
of 4-inch pipes would be enough. Two flows along the wall, continued 
around the opposite end, and, returning on a parallel with, and 9 feet 
from them, back into the main return. 
Span-roofed orchard houses will need a flow and return pipe on each 
side of the path, arranged singly on the same principle as the above. If 
lean-to a flow and return will suffice, the flow taken along the front 
wall, returning by the inside of the pathway, these structures only 
needing protection from frost, and a little warmth if necessary to ripen 
the wood of the trees. 
Pines I have left until last, these not being largely grown nowadays. 
A fruiting house of useful dimensions would be 30 feet long, 16 feet 
wide, 9 feet high at the back, and about 4 feet high in front, of 
course built in the lean-to form. A chamber should be constructed 
about 3 feet from the back wall, and may be 21 feet long and 8 feet 
wide, heated with four rows of 4-inoh pipes. Another path should be 
constructed along the front of the chamber 3 feet wide, and this would 
allow of a small pit or stage at the front of the house, which could 
be utilised for many purposes. If the front chamber is not desiraole it 
can be dispensed with. This arrangement allows of every convenienee 
for attending to the plants. For heating a house of this kind six rows 
of 4-inch pipes w’ould be necessary. Four rows along the front, two 
flows and two returns, the remaining two pipes, one flow and return, 
being arranged along the back wall. Valves must be fitted on both sets 
of pipes, the flow and return pipes from the main being brought into 
the house transversely to these. Succession houses could be of the same 
dimensions. For suckers and small plants any ordinary forcing pit 
would answer. Sometimes fruiting bouses are built about 8 feet high 
at the back and 11 feet wide, the path at the back, the bed in front, but 
this is a very inconvenient arrangement unless the lights are moveable. 
Bottom Heat. 
Forcing houses with bottom heat are generally understood not to 
eontain permanent occupants, but are utilised for forcing various kinds 
of produce as required, such as Melons and Cucumbers; also for for¬ 
warding flowering shrubs and plants. These should be lean-to with a 
southern aspect. As a rule they are too large for the majority of 
places. I consider a house 20 feet long large enough, thus a better 
succession can be maintained and a glut avoided. A house of this length 
ought to be feet high at the back, 2^ feet in front, and 10 feet wide. 
Houses of this description are usually built partly sunk beneath the 
ground level. Four feet in width should be allowed for the chamber in 
