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JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 2, 1823. 
EXHIBITING CARNATIONS AND OTHER FLOWERS. 
Last August at the great Horticultural Exhibition at Shrewsbury an 
exhibitor from Birmingham staged (not for competition) a fine display 
of 500 cut blooms of Carnations and Picotees with long stalks neatly 
arranged in small bottles, thus showing the character of the flowers as 
growing in pots or borders. This idea has evidently “ caught on,” for 
in the new schedule of the Shropshire Society a class has been made 
for a collection of Carnation and Picotee blooms shown with their 
own foliage and buds, not dressed in any way, and without ties or bands 
around the calyx or paper collars. The prizes offered are £5, £4, 
and £3, a silver medal of the Society to accompany the first prize, and 
a space of 9 feet by 6 feet is allowed for each collection. The date 
of the Exhibition, August 23rd and 24th, is too late for the southern 
growers, also late for those about Birmingham and south and west of it; 
but the more northern growers, especially those in Scotland, should 
be well in just then, and it is to be hoped that a fine display and a good 
competition will result. In such a class border varieties can be freely 
used ; these are now being cultivated largely, and the display made 
last year to which I have alluded was very much admired. Plants in 
pots are not admissible, as the class is in the cut bloom division of the 
schedule. 
It is well known that the Shrewsbury Show is always a remarkably 
fine one, and for two or three years past a strong one for cut flowers. 
This part of the annual Exhibition increased wonderfully last year, 
and will be still more developed this with such generous prizes. The 
Committee, with the two excellent Secretaries, Messrs. Adnitt and 
Naunton, are always ready to grasp any new ideas, and collections of 
various kinds of cut flowers now form an important feature. Liberal 
prizes, as in the class for Carnations, are offered for a collection of cut 
Roses, space 12 feet by 6 feet, for nurserymen only, and this gives an 
excellent opportunity for a display of all classes of Roses then in bloom ; 
but the date is rather late for many of the summer blooming kinds. 
Still, there will be sure to be a good display, and an open field for taste 
in arrangement. 
Collections of Dahlias, with a space of 15 feet by 6 feet for each, 
having just the same prizes offered, and the initial display of last August 
will, no doubt, lead to a much extended competition this year. Collec¬ 
tions of Gladioli, Begonia blooms, have generous prizes offered for them, 
and there is an excellent class for a collection of hardy border flowers 
(annuals and shrubs excluded) to fill a space 15 feet by 6 feet, for 
nurserymen only. 
I venture to say that the adoption of these collections will become 
very popular, for with my experience of a large exhibition in August 
last, when liberal prizes were offered for collections of Dahlias, we had 
seven splendid exhibits, each occupying a space of from 15 feet to 
22 feet in length by 3 feet 6 inches wide, and much taste was displayed 
in arrangement. I may also add that at a great Rose show we purpose 
holding in Birmingham in July next, prizes will be offered for a col¬ 
lection of Rose blooms in a given space, in the hope of seeing included 
many old-fashioned garden Roses, climbers, Gallicas, Hybrid Chinas, and 
others seldom seen now. 
The “ collection ” style of showing is also to be seen in great force 
at Shrewsbury with vegetables. It is always a wonderful display.—W. D. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Pruning- and Nailing Wall Trees. —Let this work be forwarded 
and completed before the stress in other departments of the garden 
commences. Another cogent reason for its early furtherance is the un¬ 
certainty of the weather. When mild and dry considerable progress 
can be made. Boards should be laid upon soil that is loose, damp, or 
liable to be pasty when trod upon. This facilitates the progress of the 
work. Trees that have had the proper amount of attention during pre¬ 
ceding seasons will soon be disposed of. Old straggling neglected 
specimens can only have a start made in the attempt to renovate them, 
as they require patience, and more than one season’s manipulation to 
bring them into form and fruitfulness. Some will need the expenditure 
of too much time and labour in order to renovate them without the 
promise of sufficient good resulting. These will be better cut back for 
grafting or grubbed up entirely, their place being taken with young 
trees of the same or better varieties, renewing or improving the soil, 
however, before doing so. 
Fears. —With all forms of trees examine the main branches first to 
see that they are not too thickly placed. Those of horizontally trained 
trees on walls, or espaliers in the open, ought not to have branches closer 
together than 9 inches. The large branches of aged trees, as well as 
strong-growing varieties, are better placed for good cultural requirements 
when not nearer together than a foot. 
Spurs .—The removal of crowded spurs, together with the shortening 
back of elongated clusters which project too far from the wall is more 
or less required every season. It is advantageous to have the fruiting 
spurs as close to the wall as possible, in order that the blossoms and 
young fruit may have the aid of its protective influence. There are no 
benefits derived from long spurs. 
Position of Fruit Buds. —In large projecting spurs the most fruitful 
buds are found at the extremities, while those lower down nearer the 
main branches are of no use whatever, from the fact that they constantly 
exist in a partially shaded position away from the developing influences 
of light and air. Well-placed back buds if allowed free access to better 
influences during the growing season would soon gather plumpness and 
be of service. The trees would also be improved in appearance. 
Jteneioing Spurs. —Should a difficulty be found in securing suitably 
placed buds, or those present are too weak in character to be encouragea, 
it is advisable to shorten back the whole spur, leaving nothing but an 
inch of bare wood next to the main stem. Strong growths will follow, 
but by early disbudding and a judicious course of summer pruning, 
those retained will eventually form fruit buds of the right stamp. Much 
good results by not taking these extreme measures, but gradually 
shortening back the spurs year by year, thinning out the weakest buds 
at any time when it is seen they can be easily dispensed with. 
Thinning Sjmrs. —Attention must be given to regulating the distance 
between the spurs. A crowded condition leads to each cluster spoiling 
its neighbour, and is the main cause of unsightly elongations- 
Laying in Young Wood. —Old trees may often be made fruitful by 
laying in and encouraging young growth wherever room can be found 
for such without crowding. Lay in all leading growths their full length 
where space is not fully occupied. Trees with rather long shoots having 
prominent fruit buds at their extremities may be tied in close to 
branches or spurs. 
Shortening Side Growths. —Shorten the side growths or foreright 
shoots produced during the summer back to one or two buds at their 
base. On well managed trees these are plump, and promising to develop 
into sturdy fruit buds, 
iipples.—Apples are treated when trained on walls in much the 
same manner as Pears. If anything the main branches require more 
room, and the majority of varieties should have them not less than a 
foot apart. The leaves of Apple trees are larger, consequently the 
expanse of foliage rightly belonging to one fruit bud is greater ; hence 
there is more risk of the leaves overlapping and shading each other. 
Unhealthy foliage of Apples soon becomes a prey to red spider, which 
quickly reduces the vitality of a tree, rendering healthy development 
impossible. 
Pyramids and Cordons. —These and other forms of restricted trees 
need similar treatment as regards thinning of branches, spurs, and buds, 
removal of weak and dead wood. 
Standards. —Thinning out is the main operation which these require, 
but frequently a considerable amount of spray must be cut clean out 
from among the branches. Shortening branches is an evil to be avoided 
as a rule. It is necessary, however, when branches infringe on adjoin¬ 
ing trees. 
Plums and Cherries. —Two methods of producing fruitfulness 
on wall-trained trees are usually productive of good results. They 
cons’st of a combination of spur-pruning and the annual laying-in of 
young wood, which maintain trees in vigorous condition. Regulate all 
best growths, and re-arrange the main branches if necessary. Some of 
the shoots may be tied over bare portions of the strong branches, 
others nailed where space permits. Old bearing wood cut out freely 
to make room for the younger growths being thinly trained. They 
usually bear the second year. Morello Cherries are excepted from this 
dual method, they bearing only on growths of the previous year, which 
should be carefully tied or nailed in now or earlier. 
Preparing- Trees for Crafting. —Old trees intended to be grafted 
in spring ought now to have their main branches reduced to near the 
parts where grafts will be inserted, as it is not wise to behead large 
trees for this purpose when the sap is rising. 
Scions for Grafting. —It is necessary to secure these early. The 
shoots are now dormant, and must be kept so until the time for grafting 
comes. Select healthy portions of the previous year’s wood, carefully 
label, and bury them two-thirds of their length in a cool position behind 
a north wall, where they will keep plump until wanted. 
Forking among Fruit Trees. —Fork over the ground, and bury 
manure between trees and bushes where there is no danger of injuring 
fibres or roots. The spade is a barbarous implement, as often thought¬ 
lessly used amongst fruit trees and bushes. 
FRUIT FORGING. 
Pines. —The plants recently started into fruit should be allowed a 
temperature of 70° to 75° at night, 5° less when cold, admitting air in 
the daytime at 80° ; then allow it to rise to 85° or 90°, and close for the 
day at 85°. The bottom heat must be kept steady at 85° or 90° for 
Queens, other varieties 5° less. The plants will produce strong suckers 
if in good health. When the suckers are large enough td handle all, 
except one to each plant, should have the growths checked by taking out 
the centres of those not wanted. 
Another batch of plants ought to be selected from those that have 
been wintered in 7 or 8-inch pots, choosing the most vigorous plants, and 
these will.eupplement the autumn-potted plants. The remainder of 
such plants should be reserved until the general spring potting, when 
they may be shaken out and treated similarly to the suckers then 
started. Good fibrous loam with the turf reduced, or if used fresh it 
should be placed where it can be heated, so as to kill the grass and any 
larv« it may contain, and torn up in a suitable compost, adding a-quart 
WQKK.foil'rHEWEEK.. 
