102 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Tebrnary 2, 1893. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
J. E. Barnes, The “Great Eastern” Seed Stores, Norwich.— Vege¬ 
table and Flower Seeds, J^'c. 
Richard Dean. Ranelagh Road, Ealing, W.— Frimroses, Polyanthus, 
Hardy Plants, Seeds, Potatoes, 
Dr. G. Dieck, Zoschen, Merseburg.— Fruit, Trees, Shrubs, ^'c. 
Andrew Irvine, Tighnabruaich, N.B.— Pansies, Violas, Carnations^ 
Roses, ^'c. 
J. Lambert & Sons, Trier.— Vegetable and Flower Seeds. 
Pitcher & Manda, United States Nurseries, Short Hills, New Jersey, 
U.S.A .—Neio and Rare Seeds, Plants, and Bulbs. 
Vilmorin, Andrieux & Co., Paris.— General Seed Catalogue. 
James Yates, Stockport.— Vegetable and Flower Seeds. 
•**A11 correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
nnavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
manures for Roots (A. ^.j.—A mixture of two parts mineral 
superphosphate, two parts steamed bone flour, and one part kainit applied 
at the rate of about 3 ozs. to the square yard, or 6 lbs. per rod, not 
deeply dug, but lightly pointed in now, would be good for roots after 
Brassicas, and after the plants appear top-dressings of soot would be very 
beneficial, as would nitrate of soda sprinkled on the soil only, not on the 
leaves of young Radishes. If you can procure guaranteed bone super¬ 
phosphate the bone flour may be dispensed with. If yeu use nitrate of 
soda too freely and mineral support too sparsely you will soon weaken 
your land. 
Fungus Spoiling mushrooms.— Your beds appear to be in* 
fested with the most offensive and destructive fungus Xylaria vaporaria> 
referred to in “ Mushrooms for the Million,” page 94, sixth edition. 
After the strong and varied measures you have resorted to we fear there 
is small hope of anything banishing the pest short of thorough and 
complete disinfection extending over a considerable time. We are 
pleased to learn of your success in other than the infested building 
through following the instructions in the work named, and we expect 
if you abandon the old pest house you will not often be without Mush¬ 
rooms, but will manage to grow them somewhere or other. All the 
same we are sorry for the infestation. 
Vines In Pots (Uwte).—We presume, though you do not say sO) 
that you desire to fruit the Vines this year. If the wood you send is a 
fair sample, the Vines are too weak for affording a satisfactory crop, 
though they may afford small bunches. They could be supported in 
10-inch pots with the aid of top-dressings and liquid manure, and would 
derive benefit if the roots could extend into a bed of mild fermenting 
materials such as leaves. We have seen good results accrue from shifting 
such Vines into larger pots when the work and subsequent watering have 
been carefully done. The time for shifting is when young growths push 
to the extent of an inch or two, only liberating the roots slightly as if 
repotting a Chrysanthemum. Nothing that you can do now can influence 
the production of bunches ; but the berries of those produced may be 
enlarged by free-root action and adequate supplies of appropriate food. 
Gardenias (J. E .').—It is just possible that the plants you cut back 
will not bloom this season. You kept them growing too late to ripen 
their wood sufficiently to set flower buds. Take out the points of the 
shoots and push the plants into fresh growth as early in the season as 
you can. They will then complete and ripen their wood early. This 
is necessary if they are to flower during winter. If the plants have a 
tendency to grow too long in summer, place them in a cool house fully 
exposed to the sun. They will then soon stop growth, and when 
returned to heat again will form flower buds. We have always been 
most successful by striking a number of cuttings in July or August in 
thumb pots, when well rooted placing them into 2^ or 3-inch pots for 
the winter. The shoots are pinched until they are placed in 5-inch pots, 
when they are allowed to extend until they complete their growth. 
A slight rest is given in a cooler house before they are introduced into 
heat. ^ G. Stanleyana is very shy in flowering. You had better grow it 
as it is until it shows bloom. It requires to be well ripenei. The 
flowers are single, white, very fragrant, and possess a very long tube. 
Orchids Unsatisfactory (Y. 0.'). —The plants appear to be in a 
very unhealthy state. The root-action is probably defective, and it is 
certain they cannot receive the requisite nourishment with the pots 
standing on either dry ashes or dry boards. If the medium in which 
the plants are, we will not say growing, but established, is sour, as it 
may be, it should be removed, a^d the roots washed and trimmed if 
needed, then placed in sweet material in small pots two-thirds filled 
with drainage, and the pots stood on a damp (no; too wet) base. The 
Dendrobium growths were probably not well supported last year nor 
ripened. They cannot have too much sun in the autumn, and then 
need very little water. The temperature is suitable for most of the 
Odontoglossums. You should have explained the condition of the 
plants more precisely, also stated their size as well as the size of the 
pots, also the nature of the compost and roots, and when they were last 
repotted. 
Upright Cordon Pear Trees for Honse Gable (A Market 
Gardener'). —The following with liberal treatment would afford fine 
fruit :—Jargonelle, double grafted, August; Triomphe de Vienne, double 
grafted, September ; Magnate, Quince, October and November ; Doyenne 
du Comice, Quince, November and December ; Beurre d’Anjou, Quince, 
December and January. Pitmaston Duchess produces grand fruit in 
such positions, and it is a pity to see cottage walls naked or occupied 
with worthless varieties of fruit trees, instead of the larger and better 
paying varieties. Pitmaston Duchess does well on the Quince, but 
better on the Pear stoek. The Apricot would probably fruit better if 
it were root-pruned, and it should be attended to without delay, or 
deferred until the early autumn. 
Water-edge Plants {J. II. E. B. II.). —The margins of artificia 
ponds or lakes are often bare, and not unfrequently monotonous from 
the natural or common-place plants that are employed to fringe them. 
If a greater variety of plants of different heights, varied habit, and 
diverse flowers were employed and disposed in irregular and bold groups, 
some near and some at a distance from the water, the distance between 
them being varied yet harmonious, good effects would be attained. The 
Epilobiums are fine ; E. angustifolius thrives in rich moist soil, and 
grows 5 or 6 feet high, and has showy purple-red flowers. The Purple 
Loosestrife (Ly thrum Salicaria) is a good water-edge plant; and Spiraea 
ulmaria (our Meadow Sweet) is excellent. The Reeds are indispensable. 
The common Reed (Arundo Phragmites), which abounds by river sides ; 
Purple Small Reed (Calamagrostis Epegoios), attains to about half the 
height of the common Reed, has fine leaves and handsome plumes ; and 
the Reed Grass (Digraphis arundinacea), with broad leaves and hand¬ 
some plumes, contrasts well with the preceding. The last two grow 
3 to 4 feet high, and the first sometimes 10 feet. Pampas Grass 
(Gynerium argenteum) and the New Zealand Reed Grass (Arundo 
conspicua) succeed admirably, provided there is not an excess of water 
about the roots—that is, they must be planted high, and when dotted 
here and there are singularly effective. In the wetter places Lyme 
Grass (Elymus giganteus) and E. canadensis are suitable, and succeed 
where choicer plants do not thrive. Carexes do well in boggy places, 
none being better than our native species, C. paniculata and C. pendula. 
There is a variegated form of C, acuta, also of C. riparia, both doing 
well, even in water ; and the Galingale (Cyperus longus) does well in 
shallow water. A Bamboo in conspicuous places add immensely to the 
effect. Arundinaria falcata and Bambusa Metake, with Phyllostachys 
bambusoides, are amongst the hardiest and best, and should be planted 
clear of the water. Club Rushes thrive in wet soil ; Scirpus triquetra 
and S. Holochaenus are both good. The Great Spearwort (Ranunculus 
Lingua) has bold foliage, showy yellow flowers an inch across, and 
should be planted close to the water edge. Sweet Flag (Acorus Calamus) 
is very desirable for its noble and aromatic leaves. The Water Plantain 
(Alisma Plantago) is bold and striking when planted on the margin of 
water ; and nobler still is Caladium virgicum, planted in about 6 inches 
depth of water. Caltha monstrosa forms a mass of gold in early 
summer, and should be planted at the water edge. These, with those 
named in our former reply, judiciously employed would make a good 
assortment. 
P lants for Narrow Borders (/i).—It is difficult to have some 
flowers almost all the year round from outdoor plants, but the following 
will afford a igood supply over most of the year, as they bloom at 
different times :—Aconitum pyrenaicum 2, Allium pedemontauum 2, 
Anemone appennina I, Anthericum liliastrum.3, Aquilegia glandulosa 2, 
Armeria plantaginea rosea 3, Aster Amellus majus 3, A. bessarabicus 3, 
A. peregrinus 3, Aubrietia Campbellise 1, A. grmca 1, Betonica grandi- 
flora 3, Calochortus luteus oculata 2, Campanula dahurica 3, C. 
glomerata alba 3, Convallaria majus 2, Corydalis lutea 2, C. eximia 2, 
Cyclamen hedermfolium 1, Cyclobothra pulchella 2, Delphinium 
nudicaule 3, Dianthus fragrans 2, D. neglectus 2, Doronicum Clusi 3, 
Dodocatheon integrifolium 1, Erodium Manescavi 3, Erythronium dens- 
canis 1, Fritillaria meleagris 3, Fuchsia pumila 3, Gentiana acaulis 1, 
G. verna 1, Geranium Endressi 3, Helleborus atrorubens 2, niger 
angustifolius 2, Hepatica triloba vars. 1, Hypericum calycinum 2, Iberia 
correaefolia 2, Iris nudicaulis 2, I. caucasica 2, I. susiana 2, Leucojum 
vernum 2, Lilium Harrisi 3, L. tenuifolium 3, Lotus corniculatus 
plenus 1, Lychnis dioica rubra plena 2, L. diurna plena 2, L. vespertina 
plena 2, Muscari botryoides 1, Myosotis dissitiflora grandiflora 1, Nar¬ 
cissus bulbocodium album 1, N. Emperor, Empress, Horsfieldi 2, N. in- 
comparabilis 2, N. nanus 1, N. obvallaris 2, N. poeticus ornatus and N. 
poeticus plenus 2, N. pumilus plenus 1, CEuothera Youngi 3, Omphalodes 
verna 1, Onosma taurica 2, Orobus vernus 2, Oxalis floribunda 1,. 
Papaver nudicaule 3, Phlox subulata and alba 1, P. verna 1, Polemo- 
