120 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 9, 189^ 
hardier race of Apples than we now have, by crossing with our American 
sorts, or by seedling production. 
The following list is based upon the observation of four years on the 
grounds of the Iowa Agricultural College, and the experience of last 
summer at Abbotsford, The varieties mentioned are commended to the 
careful attention of fruit growers. 
Zolotoreff. —Large, conical, rich carmine, with light dots and stripes 
on the shady side. Calyx open, basin wrinkled, stem short, cavity 
deep, narrow. Flesh yellowish white, tinged with pink when over-ripe, 
rather coarse in texture, quality medium. Season early September. A 
tine handsome Apple. The tree is a vigorous upright grower, with large 
glossy leaves. Hardy as Duchess. Closely resembling this in tree and 
fruit are Basil the Great and Titovka. 
OoUlen White. —Large, oblong, ribbed, yellow ground, covered with 
bright red towards cavity, calyx open, basin slightly wrinkled, some- 
vvhat ribbed, stem short, thick, cavity small, in some almost closed. 
Flesh white, crisp, tender, juicy. Sub-acid sprightly, very good season, 
August to September. Keeps better than Duchess. Claimed by some 
to keep till midwinter. Tree a good grower of upright habit. Very 
hardy. 
AmJ/ia (imported by Bllwanger & Barry).—-Large, oblong, irregu¬ 
larly ribbed, dull red on sunny side, shading to dark green. Calyx 
closed, basin shallow, deeply wrinkled. Stem short, thick set, in closed 
cavity. Flesh greenish white, rather coarse, mildly acid. Season 
November to March. In the west the tree has been somewhat subject 
to blight, but it has not been affected this way in the east. In hardiness 
it may be graded with Wealthy. This will undoubtedly be valuable in 
the colder districts. Trees planted ten years ago at Abbotsford have 
been bearing heavily and regularly the last four years. The Arabka 
imported by the United States’ Department of Agriculture is quite 
different—an early fall Apple of the Duchess type, very vigorous and 
hardy. 
Gipsy Girl. — One of the hardiest and most vigorous of all the 
Russians. Specimens were taken this season from trees planted two 
years ago on the Experimental Farm. The fruit is large, highly 
coloured, of fair quality, and keeps till February. Wherever this tree 
has come under my notice it has been doing well. 
Royal Table .—This Apple is of North German origin, the later 
importation by Professor Budd. The trees at Abbotsford are compact 
growers, with round topped heads, slender twigs, and medium-sired 
leaves ; they have made vigorous growth, and seem perfectly hardy. 
Fruit medium to large, conical, ribbed, greenish, with dull red stripes 
on the sunny side, calyx open, basin wide, wrinkled, stem short, thick, 
cavity wide, shallow, flesh greenish white, inclined to be tough, quality 
fair. Season : at this date (January 25th), specimens in my cellar are 
firm and in good eating condition. It should keep through February. 
As already stated notes were taken on a considerable number of varieties 
which fruited at the Experimental Farm and at Abbotsford the past 
year, but it is thought better to reserve such information for future 
publication.— John Geaig, State Horticulturist, Ottawa. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Potatoes In Pits and Frames. —Now that early Potatoes can be 
bought so cheaply fewer attempt to force them than formerly ; but all the 
same, home-grown tubers are usually superior in quality, and are always 
appreciated. To meet the demands of large establishments, whole rows 
of frames or pits have to be given up to early Potatoes, while those in 
charge of small gardens can only devote a very limited number to this 
work, early dishes being provided for special occasions only. What is 
wanted is either a gentle hotbed of leaves or leaves and manure in heated 
pits of sufficient depth to raise the soil well up to the glass ; and in the case 
of deep garden frames only being available, these should be set on a hotbed 
4 feet deep at the back, with a good slope to the south. In this instance 
again a mixture of stable manure and leaves is to be preferred, this 
being the least liable to become dangerously hot when warm weather 
sets in. If stable manure only is available, well prepare this by 
throwing into a heap to ferment at least a fortnight before using, giving 
it one or two turns in the meantime, and do not make the bed quite so 
deep as when leaves are used. Half fill the frames with some of the 
shortest of the manure, on this placing about 9 inches of light sandy 
soil, or such as can be obtained by sifting over a heap of old potting 
compost, notably which has been used for Chrysanthemums. The same 
depth of soil should be placed in the pits, and in either case wait till 
this is well warmed through, and the bed underneath has cooled down, 
so that the trial sticks kept plunged in it can be comfortably borne in the 
hand before planting the already sprouted sets. Any short-topped early 
variety is suitable for forcing in frames, though none surpasses the old 
Ashleaf in quality. When planting open drills about 15 inches asunder 
and 5 inches deep, in these place the tubers 6 inches apart, levelling 
the soil about them without damaging the tender and already well 
rooted sprouts. Keep the pits or frames fairly close, a little opening 
being left for the escape of vapour, giving more air when the shoots are 
through the soil. Cover frames with mats and litter every night, 
and in heated pits turn on only a very little fire heat. 
Frame Culture of Peas,— Peas do not stand forcing, but may be 
forwarded considerably. They can be gathered earliest from plants 
in properly glazed pits and large frames ; but better crops, if later, can 
be had with the aid of rough pits or frames, at least a fortnight being 
gained when these are used. The varieties best adapted to frame culture 
are Chelsea Gem, William Hurst, and English Wonder, the last named 
requiring the least room, and cropping admirably. Sow about 1 pint of 
seed thinly in small pots or in boxes filled with light soil, and place in 
gentle heat, an early Peach house answering well. By the time the 
plants are 3 inches high, and have been slightly hardened off, the pit or 
frame should be ready for their reception. Give them the benefit of a 
shallow mild hotbed of short decaying manure, on this placing 9 inches 
of rather good loamy soil, deferring planting till this is well warmed 
through. In planting arrange the rows 15 inches apart, putting out 
those in pots with a trowel, while those in boxes should be carefully 
shaken out of the soil, and planted with their roots down straight in 
narrow trenches. Fix the soil firmly about the roots, and make all 
level preparatory to dibbling out a row of either Early Paris Market or 
Golden Queen Lettuce midway between the Peas. If the soil is at all 
dry give a gentle watering with lukewarm water, but if already in a 
moist state defer watering till it has become drier. Glazed lights being 
available keep these close till the Peas and Lettuces are growing afresh, 
gradually hardening off the two latter, so as to be able soon to make 
good use of the lights elsewhere. Failing glazed lights roughly protect 
with mats. Lightly stake the Peas before they fall about. The Lettuces 
alone will more than pay for all the trouble taken. 
Peas for Planting- In the Open. —The earliest crops in the open 
can be had by raising a good stock of plants under glass, and planting 
these out on the first favourable opportunity. The dwarf varieties 
already named are the best for the purpose, William I., Exonian, and 
such like affording a good succession. At least one quart of seed ought 
to be sown in order to be sure of enough Peas to plant rows equal to a 
length of 36 yards. They move well out of shallow boxes filled with 
light soil, and this is the simplest plan of raising them. If preferred, 
either small pots or turves may be used. A very little heat will suffice 
to bring them on as soon as the weather will permit their being turned 
out with safety. If Telephone, Duke of Albany, or any other moderatel-y 
early Marrow Pea is desired extra early, enough plants for filling a good 
row should also be raised under glass, but not in strong heat. 
Sowing Peas In the Open. —During the first fortnight in 
February, weather and state of ground permitting, some of the earliest 
round-seeded Peas may well be sown, the produce from these forming a 
close succession to that obtained from the planted-out rows. The more 
delicate wrinkled seeded varieties ought not, as a rule, to be sown yet, 
these being more liable to deeay in the ground. A south border or a 
good slope to the south, but well away from the walls, answer best for 
these early crops, the ground being well manured, and if at all bad 
working, brought into good condition. Most of the early round- 
seeded varieties attain a height of from 3 feet to 4 feet, and the latter 
distance may well be allowed all of them. Where there are long borders 
available these may be turned to the best account by arranging the rows 
of tall Peas 10 feet apart, either sowing or planting four rows of dwarf 
Peas, Beck’s Dwarf Green Gem Bean, Caulifiowers, or Potatoes between 
these. For the Peas open drills 2 inches deep, sow the seed rather thickly, 
and cover with fine soil. If there are mice in the garden coat the seed 
with red lead prior to sowing it. 
Broad Beans. —Much that has been advised in the matter of 
raising and sowing Peas also applies to these, though it is not often that 
it is necessary to raise plants under glass. If the rows of autumn 
raised plants are patchy either make these good by transplanting two 
or more rows into one, or else raise the requisite number under glass— 
preferably in small pots—and plant out before they become root-bound. 
For present sowing Early Longpod and Beck’s Green Gem are to be 
preferred, disposing the seed thinly 2 inches deep in drills 2 feet apart. 
Splnacb. —Autumn sowm crops have escaped destrnction from 
frosts, and if a little soot or other fertiliser is carefully sown among the 
rows and stirred in with a flat hoe an early and strong growth of leaves 
may reasonably be anticipated. More seed should now be sown, suitable 
positions being between the rows of newly sown Peas. 
Parsley. —Frosts have destroyed many of the roots and badly 
crippled the rest. Unless there is abundance of young leaves forming 
under glass some of the soundest of the roots should be lifted, placed in 
large pots or in deep boxes, and gently forced. Also sow seed either on 
a gentle hotbed much as early Carrots are sown or in boxes, placing the 
latter in heat. Some of the plants thus obtained may be kept under 
glass and the rest dibbled out, a supply of early leaves being the 
outcome. 
Carrots and Badlsbes. —Early Carrots are always appreciated, 
and so also are Radishes in most cases. Both may be grown together 
without interfering with each other. Of the former, the quickest to 
attain a serviceable size is the Parisian Forcing, Early Horn and 
Nantes Horn also forcing well. Radishes—French Breakfast, Short 
Top, Red and White Forcing, and Wood’s Frame, all force admirably. 
At this early date moderate deep hotbeds, of not less than 4 feet deep 
at the back, and facing south, should be formed of leaves and manure, 
the frame being set on this, and half filled with some of the shortest of 
the heating material, on this being placed a layer 6 inches deep of light 
