February 9, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
121 
sandy soil. When all risks from over-heating are past, form shallow 
drills, with the edge of a short measuring rod, 8 inches apart, for the 
Carrots, and midway between these for Eadishes. Moisten the drills 
if at all dry. Sow the seed thinly, Eadishes in particular succeeding 
best when no thinning out is needed, and cover either by smoothing 
over the bed or with a little added fine soil. Keep close and dark till 
the Eadishes show through the soil, which they quickly do, after which 
admit plenty of light and a little air on warm days, covering the frames 
heavily with mats and litter every evening. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Vines in Pots, —Those started last November have 
the Grapes advanced in swelling, the bunches having been thinned 
directly the berries were fairly set, this being essential for acquiring 
good size in those that are left, but it is equally important to remove 
surplus bunches early, quality being of more importance than quantity. 
The laterals beyond the bunches may be allowed to advance a little, say 
a joint or two at each development, but the foliage only that is exposed 
to light is of value for elaboration, and crowding must be avoided. 
Laterals behind the bunches should be closely stopped or removed where 
they interfere with the principal leaves. Top-dress with a rich compost 
or partially decayed manure, to receive which rims of zinc I inches deep 
fitting within the rims of the pots should be provided. Liberal supplies 
of stimulating liquid should be given, not too strong, and an occasional 
sprinkling of superphosphate on the surface of the soil will greatly 
benefit the Vines. Where the pots are standing on brick pedestals and 
fermenting materials are placed round the pots the roots, being thereby 
encouraged, extend over the rims by turves placed around them, liberal 
supplies of liquid may be given where the pots are to remain until the 
Grapes are ripe, as the roots spreading through the fermenting material 
gather sustenance which greatly aids the swelling of the berries. 
Early Houses. —The bearing shoots should be stopped when two 
joints are made beyond the show of fruit and the leaf at the joint is 
the size of a halfpenny. If the space is small stop one joint beyond 
the bunch, or even at the bunch, as it is desirable to have some growth 
beyond the fruit to attract the sap and encourage root activity, stopping 
the laterals at the first leaf and allowing no more to be made than can 
have full exposure to the light. Where there is room the bearing shoots 
may have three or more leaves beyond the bunch. The more perfect 
foliage a shoot has the finer will be the Grapes, for their excellence is 
proportionate with the chlorophyll stored in the parts adjacent to the 
fruit. Laterals below the bunch may be removed where the space is 
limited, except from the two lowest leaves, and they should be pinched 
at every leaf. The great point is to secure well developed leaves fully 
exposed to light. Tie the shoots down carefully, not being in a hurry, 
but the points must not be allowed to touch the glass. 
Vines in Flower. —These should have a night temperature of 65°, 
and 70° to 75° by day artificially, the air of the house being kept rather 
dry. Thinning the berries must commence with the free-setting 
varieties as soon as they are formed; but if the Vines are inclined to 
produce stoneless berries the bunches should not be thinned until the 
properly fertilised takes the lead in swelling. Remove duplicate bunches, 
leaving the best and most compact, avoiding!overcropping as one of the 
greatest evils in Vine culture. 
Stimulants. —Examine inside borders frequently, and when water is 
required supply it abundantly a few degrees warmer than the tempera¬ 
ture of the house. Liquid manure also should be slightly warmer than 
the mean of the atmospheric heat, and never be applied too strong. Top- 
dressings should be applied after the soil has been properly moistened 
and worked in lightly. All salts, such as those of ammonia (sulphate), 
potash (nitrate), and soda (nitrate) should be very finely ground, for 
any undissolved particles coming in contact with the roots may cause 
damage. They are best given along with dissolved bones and gypsum, 
say five parts dissolved bone or superphosphate, three parts nitrate of 
potash, and two parts gypsum, mix, and apply 4 to 8 ozs. per square yard. 
Sulphate of ammonia and nitrate of soda may be given along with 
Thomas’ phosphate powder, say, 7 lbs. of Thomas’ phosphate powder and 
1 lb. of nitrate of soda, mix, and spread evenly at the rate of 4 ozs. per 
square yard. Sulphate of ammonia may be used with Thomas’ phosphate 
powder in the same proportion and at the same rate, but the sulphate 
and nitrate cannot be too finely powdered. The sulphate of ammonia is 
best for rather strong loams, nitrate of soda being suitable for light 
and calcareous soils. If the roots are near the surface it is best to apply 
the salts in liquid form, say 1 oz. to 8 gallons of water, and supply that 
quantity per square yard, always at the proper temperature. The basic 
slag or Thomas’ phosphate powder may be sprinkled on the surface 
before supplying the sulphate of ammonia or nitrate of soda in solution. 
The fermenting materials on outside borders if any has been used mupt 
be attended to, and when the heat declines remove some of the most 
spent, and renew the heat by the addition of fresh leaves and litter. A 
light mulching may be given the inside border as soon as the Grapes are 
thinned ; there is nothing better than sweetened manure from horse 
stables, as damage may be done by an excess of ammonia. Close the 
house early with plenty of atmospheric moisture. 
Early 3fnscat Houses. —Since the introduction of that very fine 
Grape, Madresfield Court, which forces as readily as Black Hamburgh, 
there has not been so much need for forcing Muscat of Alexandria early, 
still there is no comparison of the two for Muscat flavour, therefore, 
where a house of this variety was closed about the middle of December 
the bunches are now approaching the flowering stage, when they require 
a night temperature of 65° to 70°, advancing 10° to 15° by day, closing 
the house at 80° to 85° in bright weather. When in flower every bunch 
should have a large, flat camel’s hair brush lightly drawn over it, and if 
there is a deficiency of pollen that of Hamburghs should be collected, as it 
may be by holding a large sheet of paper beneath the bunches and a rapping 
them sharply, and if this is applied to the stigmas of the Muscats the 
berries will set well. It does not answer to drive early Muscats, but 
allow time for the proper development of the leaves, otherwise they are 
so thin in texture as to scorch badly under powerful sun. It is also 
important to have the roots of the Vines inside, to supply them through 
the growing season with due moisture and nourishment, and so secure 
stout short-jointed wood, and thoroughly ripened, otherwise early 
Muscats are unsatisfactory. 
Succession Houses. —Attend to disbudding when the growths are 
sufficiently advanced to show the most promising, but proceed gradually 
with this operation, retaining the best “shows” for fruit—those that 
promise the most compact bunches. Tie down the young shoots before 
they touch the glass, stopping as before advised, and allow canes to 
extend where it is thought desirable to cover vacant space, pinching the 
laterals at the first leaf so as to concentrate the elaborated juices on the 
buds in the axils of the principal leaves. Remove surplus bunches 
before they flower, it will strenthen those retained, and maintain a 
genial atmosphere by damping at closing time or when required, but 
avoid a close saturated atmosphere as it does harm by promoting soft 
growths and aerial roots. If there is any deficiency of moisture in the 
borders supply water in a tepid state, but there is no need for abundant 
supplies until the Vines have leaves to assimilate the nutrient element. 
A wet condition of the soil in the early stages is more prejudicial than 
otherwise, as it retards rather than favours root formation. The 
present is a good time to start Vines for ripening their fruit under the 
most favourable elimatic conditions during August and September. 
Late houses of Hamburghs should be kept cool so that the Vines may 
start naturally. 
Late Houses. —Where the Vines were cleared of the Grapes early in 
January, then pruned, dressed, and have since been kept cool, a start 
may be made with such as take a long time to ripen, particularly Gros 
Colman and Gros Guillaume, as it is essential to the Grapes keeping 
well that they be ripened thoroughly by the middle of September. 
Inside borders should be brought into a thoroughly moist condition by 
a good supply of tepid water. Strong rods should be depressed to a 
horizontal position or lower, and a good break insured by syringing the 
Vines and house two or three times a day. The night temperature may 
be kept at 55°, rising 5° to 10° by day, and an advance of 5° or more 
from sun heat, with free ventilation. 
Cherry House. —The trees are now rapidly unfolding their buds, and 
the blossoms will soon have a beautiful appearance. It is wiser to 
anticipate than await insect infections by fumigating the house before the 
flowers expand, so as to make sure that the trees are free from insects, or 
an application of clear rather strong quassia water will answer the same 
purpose, repeating at intervals of a day or two The temperature should 
be maintained at 40° to 45° at night, and about 50° in the daytime 
regularly, a genial atmosphere te secured by damping available 
surfaces occasionally. The house can hardly be too freely ventilated, 
subject to the temperatures being maintained. If fresh trees are to be 
introduced they must be planted without delay, shading them when 
the sun is powerful, and lightly sprinkling them frequently to promote 
their speedy re-establishment, surrounding surfaces also being well 
moistened. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Zonal Pelargoniums. —Where cuttings have been wintered thickly 
either in pots or boxes these will require to be given more room soon, or 
otherwise they will not plant out well next June. First, however, start 
them in gentle heat, or wait till they commence growing naturally in 
their present quarters, and then pinch out their points. Directly they 
break afresh either place singly in small pots or dispose them more 
thinly in boxes and pans. Thus treated, and kept for a time in gentle 
heat, they will make strong bushy plants, effective from the day they 
are put out. On no account cut off the tops of these autumn-struck 
plants for the purpose of rooting, as it quite spoils them. Place all old 
plants, notably of bronze, gold, and silver variegated varieties in a 
vinery or Peach house being forced. This wilt cause them to grow 
strongly, and the young shoots when moderately firm root readily. If 
the tops are taken off before active growth has commenced many of 
them will fail to strike. 
Heliotropes, Fuehslas, and Abutllons.— Old plants of Helio¬ 
tropes ought now to be topped and placed in heat, the side shoots from 
these being struck as fast as they form. A few Fuchsias, if young 
plants are required, to be similarly treated, but the bulk of old plants 
ought still to be resting in greenhouses or other cool quarters, April 
being quite soon enough to start these. Young shoots of variegated 
Abutilons taken off with a heel of old wood strike readily in heat, and 
in order to have plenty of these very effective bedding plants, lightly 
prune what stock plants there are in pots and start them in heat. 
Verbenas and Zantanas. —Stock plants of ordinary Verbenas 
now in small pots and cool quarters should have a shift and be placed in 
heat. Keep them well away from the hot-water pipes, and free of 
other insect-infested plants, and a capital lot of sappy sure striking 
cuttings will then be obtained. Verbena venosa is best propagated by 
means of root cuttings. Cut the fleshy roots into 2-inch lengths, dibble 
these in rather thickly into boxes or pans, the topmost joint not being 
deeply buried, and place in brisk heat. There will soon be plenty of well- 
