122 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 9, 1895. 
rooted plants ready for boxing off. Both kinds of Verbenas may be 
raised from seed, mixed beds of seedlings being very effective. Sow in 
pans at once, cover with squares of glass, and keep in moist heat till the 
seedlings appear. Sometimes the seed germinates very quickly, while 
not unfrequently it is several weeks before it does so. Lantanas may be 
raised from cuttings or seed exactly as advised in the case of Verbenas. 
IConlgra varlegrata and Iiobella. —Plants of the Koniga should be 
placed in heat, and the cuttings struck as fast as they can be obtained. 
If dwarf Lobelias are to be raised, either by division or cuttings, keep 
the stock plants on a warm greenhouse shelf. Subjected to a strong 
heat the tops soon become hard and develop into flower heads. Directly 
the shoots emit roots just above the soil division should take place, 
every partially rooted piece duly topped soon becoming a strong plant. 
Only sappy shoots are of any use for making into cuttings. 
Polemonlum cseruleum. —The variegated form of this plant now 
in frames or other cool quarters will soon commence to emit roots 
from the short stems, either buried or just above the surface of the soil, 
and then will be the time to divide them into as many pieces as there 
are crowns. Place them singly and rather deeply into 3-inch or slightly 
larger pots, but still keep them in a cool pit or frame, this plant being 
most impatient of heat, and also of drought. 
Dabllas. —If it is intended to increase the stock of Dahlias by 
means of cuttings, young single-stemmed plants being also the best for 
all purposes, place some of the old roots in gentle heat, and root the 
cuttings that are produced separately in small pots. They are best 
taken off with a heel, and before they become hollow. Dahlias can be 
raised very easily from seed, but seedlings, as a rule, are not nearly so 
good as ordinary named varieties. 
Cannas. —These may be started with Dahlias. In this case each 
strong growth that eventually forms must be detached with a portion 
of old roots connected with it. Plants obtained by thus roughly split¬ 
ting up the old clumps are more effective when planted out than are 
masses of leaves springing from undivided^clumps. Cannas seeds are 
extremely hard. Before sowing, soak them in a jar of water placed on 
the hot-water pipes or plunged in a hotbed till they have become soft 
and swollen to double their original size. All will not be fit to sow at 
one time. Merely soaking them for a given number of hours will not 
therefore answer. Place the swollen seeds singly in small pots of good 
sjil, already plunged and warmed in a brisk hotbed, and they will soon 
complete germination. 
IVXlscellaneous Plants. —Seeds of Acacia lophantha should be 
treated similarly to Cannas, and neat little plants may be obtained this 
spring. The seed of the Coral plant (Erythrina erista-galli) is equally 
hard, and this, too, should be soaked in fairly hot water till it has softened 
and swollen considerably, being then sown in previously warmed 
soil, and given the benefit of brisk bottom heat. Grevillea robusta seed 
does not require soaking, but should be sown in a pan, covered lightly 
with fine soil, and kept plunged in a hotbed till it germinates. The 
quality of the seed varies considerably, sometimes germinating quickly, 
at others either failing to do so, or refusing altogether. Plants raised 
last year would be the most effective in the flower garden. 
PLANT HOUSES, 
Mlg-nonette. —Plants in 5-ineh pots will have a tendency to grow 
weakly if not given abundance of air. Be careful, too, that the soil 
does not become dry. Thin the plants if they need it, half a dozen in 
each pot being ample, and pinch out any puny blooms that show. If 
the earliest plants have attained 4 or 5 inches in height pinch back or 
train the shoots close over the surface of the pot. Those plants that 
are flowering may have a little artificial manure applied to the surface 
of the soil. 
Fuchsias.— Young plants that have been kept slowly moving may 
be plaeed into 5-inch pots. A compost of loam, leaf mould, manure, 
and sand will suit them. Place the plants in a temperature of 50° and 
supply each with a small upright stake. Old plants that have broken 
into growth may have the soil shaken from them and be repotted. A 
vinery that has been started will suit these plants well. Cuttings may 
be inserted as soon as they are ready, and another batch of old plants 
can be started in a vinery or Peach house that has just been closed. 
Iiantanas. —Plants that have enjoyed a gocd period of rest should 
be cut close back, leaving one o^; two eyes only of the last year’s wood. 
Introduce the plants into warmth to break; in fact, the treatment 
advised for Fuchsias will suit them admirably. 
Cannas. —When these are used in tropical or sub-tropical houses 
some roots may be started into growth. They should be placed in various 
sized pots according to requirements. Cannas will start very well in a 
vinery or any structure where the temperature ranges 45° to 50°, and 
may be stood amongst other plants in the forcing house if room can be 
found for them. 
Petunias. —Bushy little plants of dwarf free flowering kinds in 
3-inch pots should be placed into 5-inch pots and arranged close to the 
glass in a temperature of 50°. They must not be hurried ; all that is 
needed at present is slow growth of a sturdy nature. Plants that are 
not needed may be pinched and allowed to break again before they are 
placed in the pots in which they are to flower. Plants kept for stock 
should be encouraged to grow and a batch of cuttings inserted in the 
course of a week or two. 
Heliotropes.— Bushes or standards that have not been cut back 
will quickly come into flower if they can be placed in a growing 
temperature of 00°. White Lady is one of the best for this purpose. 
Young plants in 3-inch pots place into others 5 inches in diameter, and 
if kept in a temperature of 55° will commence growth and make 
excellent decorative specimens in a short time. Plants not required for 
flowering early may be cut close back and started into growth in gentle 
warmth. 
Caladlums. —The tubers of various kinds that have been stored 
away in a warm house where a fair share of moisture has been main¬ 
tained will have started into growth. These should be shaken out of the 
old soil, and be either repotted in various size pots, according to demand, 
or placed in pans amongst light material until they have started and 
are ready for potting. We invariably pot and stand them for a time 
where they have been rested, but keep them syringed in order that the 
soil in which they are placed should not become dry. It is a good plan 
to plunge the pots amongst cocoa-nut fibre refuse, so that the soil does 
not dry too rapidly. Too much water in the early stages of growth 
will prove injurious. C. argyrites started in pans some time ago should 
be potted singly and pushed on for decorative purposes. 
iLcblmenes. —Shake away the old soil and start the tubers in pans 
of light sandy material. These may be placed thickly in pans, espe¬ 
cially if the main stock of decorative plants are to be raised from 
cuttings after they have started into growth. Plants that have been 
grown in baskets soak in tepid water and introduce into heat until they 
start into growth. All tubers that are placed in pots or pans, and 
introduced into heat, should be plunged where practicable to prevent 
having to water them too frequently. 
Tuberous Begronlas. —Shake a good batch of these from amongst 
the old soil, and place the tubers in leaf mould and sand in boxes 
until they start into growth. They soon start if they can be introduced 
into the forcing house where they can enjoy slight bottom heat. If the 
leaf mould is moderately moist a mere dewing daily with the syringe 
will be all the water they need until signs of growth are visible. Seed 
should be sown at once on the surface of fine soil made even in pans or 
pots. A sprinkling of sand may be placed on the surface before sowing. 
Water gently afterwards with a very fine rose can, but do not cover the 
seed with soil. Place a square of glass over the pans until the seed has- 
germinated. 
Gloxinias. —Seed may be sown on the same principle as advised for 
Begonias. If sown at this period the small plants produced are suflS- 
ciently advanced to bear shade without fear of damping before the sun 
gains too much power. Late plants are always useful, but for these seed 
should not be sown before the end of April. 
/-I • 
HE) BEE-KE)EPE)R. 
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APIARIAN NOTES. 
Some Things Reviewed. 
Honey, as is well known, is a natural secretion gathered by 
bees from flowers and other parts of plants, and stored by them in 
hermetically sealed cells of wax. Neglect the sealing, and acetate 
fermentation quickly sets in ; the hydrogen escaping and coming 
into contact with the oxygen forms a watery emulsion, thus hasten¬ 
ing the process, whilst the attenuated ether which gives honey its 
flavour is rapidly dissipated. 
To preserve honey as near its original state and flavour as 
possible the process of extracting and storing in hermetically sealed 
jars should be quickly performed, and without applying artificial 
heat, as that hastens the deterioration of honey. Some very 
beautiful chemical experiments can be made by the application of 
heat to honey in a vessel supplied with a nozzle, or without artificial 
heat if the atmosphere is extracted by an air pump, when the ether 
may be collected in a receiver. 
Chemists appear to be unable to give us any reliable data t» 
distinguish the difference between honey and sugar, so we are ahead 
of them with our simple experiments. There is seen a decided 
difference, and happily the detection is not difficult. 
The over-extracting by the moderns has necessitated “ripeners,”' 
which quickly dissipates the essential oils that make honey so 
palatable and agreeable, leaving behind a residuum little better 
than molasses. 
The best “ripener” I believe in the market is the one invented 
by Mr. T. W. Cowan. It has a drying or evaporating metal surface 
of 30 feet, by which the honey is subjected to a high temperature 
and to the atmosphere at the same time. Young apiarians, ignorant 
of what has been done in the past, are prone to charge me with 
claiming credit for so-called modern “ inventions ” to which I am 
not entitled. Of course this is not true, and I lay no claim to Mr. 
Cowan’s invention. 
The beginner will observe that the volatile substances in honey 
are as essential to its good quality as salt and sugar are to the 
seasoning and preserving most of our food supplies, although used 
in small modicums or proportion to the bulk. He must, therefore 
