124 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ February 9, 1893. 
Pruning: Vines (^A. A. J3 .').—The Vines have made very good 
canes indeed, but if they had been ours w'e should have topped them 
when about half the length for strengthening the base and having 
bolder buds there. Having regard to the permanent well-being of the 
Vines we should cut the weaker down to the base of the rafters for 
encouraging strong growth next season, allowing them to bear no fruit; 
the strong canes we should shorten to within 18 inches or 2 feet from 
the base of the rafter, and allow two of the strongest laterals from each 
to carry a bunch of Grapes weighing 1 lb. to 1^ lb. eaeh. If “quick 
returns ” in fruit is the primary object the canes are strong enough to 
produce good bunches up a length 6 or 8 feet, but they would be 
weakened by the crop. 
Stimulants for Plants and Trees (A, T .).—Neither nitrate of 
soda nor sulphate of ammonia affords anything like complete nutriment 
for plants and trees, and if long used alone, though they would incite 
rapid and possibly too rapid growth for a time, the ultimate results 
would be the reverse of satisfactory. When the soil contains ample 
mineral ingredients appropriate dressings of the salts named are 
beneficial. For plants in pots needing a push on, it would not be wise 
to commence with more than J oz. of the salts to a gallon of water ; but 
twice the quantity might be safely given to trees in borders that are in 
need of such stimulants. You do not possess a good grip of the nature, 
action, and effects of different kinds of manures, and should closely 
study the subject. The botanical name of the plant from which cotton 
is commonly obtained is Gossypium herbaceum. 
Ribbon Borders (^Anglo-Scof). — What are known as “ribbon 
borders ’’ are those filled with lines of plants, eaeh of a distinct colour. 
Such are scarcely desirable, or even possible, in your case, a mixture 
being more to the purpose. Tall Dahlias,alternating with either Sunflowers, 
Sweet Peas in patches, or Castor-Oil plants, would be the best for both 
borders ; and in front of these, 2 feet or rather more away, plant Fuchsia 
Riccartoni, Zea japonica, and dwarf Dahlias of the Glare of the Garden 
type, many of the Pompon and single varieties, which can be raised 
either from seed or cuttings, also being of a suitable height. In the 
angles between these, only about 9 inches nearer the front, plant Love- 
lies-bleeding, miniature Sunflowers, tall Zinnias, African Marigolds, 
Princess Alice Stock, and Chrysanthemums coronarium iind Dunnetti. 
A foot away plant a row of strong, early raised, and tall-growing 
Antirrhinums and Pentstemons, the tall Chrysanthemum-flowered Asters 
and French Marigolds also going well with these. Another foot nearer 
the front plant either East Lothian or early autumn-flowering Stocks, 
these being mixed if need be with Victoria Asters or other varieties of 
the same height. Dwarf Victoria, dwarf Chrysanthemum • flowered, 
and Empress Asters, Godetias Lady Albemarle, Duchess of Albany and 
Princess of Wales, and Ten-week Stocks could follow next, Tom Thumb 
Nasturtiums and Gaillardias being also suitable for this row. For the 
edging a line of dwarf blue Lobelias would be better than Golden 
Pyrethrum, or the two might be mixed. If the plants in all but the 
front and three back rows were planted in groups of threes, the borders 
would be better filled, and stiff lines be avoided. The selection given 
would commence flowering fairly early in the summer, and be gay till 
severe frosts intervene. 
Planting- Fruit Trees and Roses In Spring (^B. D. A'.).— 
Last year, about this time or a little later, a gentleman who had planted 
2 acres of land with fruit trees just before the frost, asked our advice 
about completing the work (other 2 acres) then, or deferring it till 
the autumn. We advised him to order trees at once, and tell his 
nurseryman they would only be accepted on condition that they arrived 
in a moist state, root and branch. If the ground was in a friable con¬ 
dition when our correspondent received the trees, he was advised to cut 
off the end of every broken root and plant carefully at once. If the 
weather was not favourable for planting, he was advised to place the trees 
in a trench, well covering the roots with soil, and scatter some litter 
over the slanting tops to shield them from the sun, then seize the first 
favourable day for planting. Our advice was followed, the long young 
branches cut back, two thirds of their length being removed. The result 
was that most of these trees made distinctly better growth than those that 
were planted in winter (not in the autumn) just prior to the severe 
frost, and their owner is now delighted with their condition. We have 
Roses yet to plant, and shall not hesitate in planting. The chief factors 
for insuring good growth are (1) friable soil ; (2) roots not dried by 
exposure, and all broken ends pruned smooth ; (3) shortening the 
branches freely to reduce the evaporating surface. We shall not mulch 
with manure now, as we want every possible degree of sun heat to warm 
the soil and stimulate the emission of fresh roots. We may possibly 
mulch as summer approaches to keep the ground moist, and promote 
fibrous root activity near the surface. 
B.sters for Cutting (JL. B .').—There is nothing to prevent one so 
intelligent and energetic as yourself from succeeding well with Asters, 
and you ought to send some to Spitalfields as well as Covent Garden 
Market, the commoner bunching flowers sometimes selling well at the 
former place. The varieties we can recommend are either Harbinger 
or Pride of the Market; as a good early white. Queen of the Market, 
colours mixed, also being a freely flowering strain. The new White 
Comet is particularly good and sells readily, the flowers resembling 
Japanese Chrysanthemums, and there is also a blue form of Comet. 
Varieties with incurved blooms seem to take best in the market, and you 
cannot do better than grow Truffaut’s Pseony-flowered Perfection, colours 
various, extensively. There is also a constant demand for white flowers, 
and you will do well, therefore, to grow a good sized bed of Dwarf White 
Pmony-flowered Perfection. You failed to state what convenience you 
have for raising the plants. Probably you have a frame or two. If se 
form a slight hotbed towards the end of March. Set the frame on this 
partly filled with some of the shortest heating material, and on this 
place not less than 4 inches of the best fine soil available. Water this 
if at all dry ; sow the Aster seed thinly broadcast, and cover with a 
little fine soil. Avoid unduly coddling the seedlings, and gradually 
expose them to all weathers. If not at all crowded, fairly sturdy plants 
will result, and these should be moved to where they are to grow when 
about 3 inches high. If raised thickly, the plants will have to be tem¬ 
porarily pricked out 3 inches apart each way in beds in a sheltered 
position, and protected with benders and mats for a time. Failing 
glazed lights, form the shallow hotbed, drive stakes into the corners 
and along the sides, and with 9-inch or rather deeper boards enclose the 
bed of soil sowing seed as previously advised. Protect closely with 
mats or carpets till the seedlings appear, and subsequently during cold 
nights only. A number of sturdy plants may be raised in that way, 
and the bed of manure be available either for a Vegetable Marrow bed 
or for mulching other crops. Asters delight in a fairly rich well-worked 
soil, failing quickly on poor non-retentive ground. Form beds 6 feet 
wide to hold five rows of plants, alleys 1 foot wide between them being 
sufficient. All ought to be planted by the end of May, and from 
10 inches to 12 inches apart in the rows. This work is best done in 
showery weather. Do not wait long for that, however, but give occa¬ 
sional waterings till the plants are growing strongly, when, if possible, a 
mulching of short partially decayed not fresh manure should be given. 
The taller growers, notably the Pseony-flowered varieties, ought to be 
lightly staked, Birch or Hazel spray answering well. 
Sweet Peas for Bunching (A Lady ).—If Sweet Peas are sown on 
rich deeply dug ground, and early mulched with strawy manure, they 
will yield flowers profusely and continuously till cut down by frosts. 
Keeping the flowers closely cut favours this continuous production, the 
plants being liable to cease flowering directly a heavy crop of seed pods 
set upon them. Eckford’s new varieties quite eclipse the older forms, 
but are somewhat expensive, or at any rate you might think them so 
if bought in separate colours. Many good forms are included in packets 
of Eckford’s mixture, and in addition to these you ought also to have 
either Princess Beatrice or Mrs. Gladstone separately, the delicate pink 
colour of these varieties being much appreciated by ladies. Carmine 
Invincible is likewise a taking colour. Also sow at least a pint of the 
common white form. Very choice varieties are sold in small packets, 
and in order to lose none of the seeds it is a good plan to sow them in 
4-inch pots, five or six in each, placing these in gentle heat, eventually 
hardening off and planting where they are to flower before they become 
badly root-bound. This not being possible in your case, be content to 
sow the common varieties where the plants are to grow and flower, as 
early in February as the ground can be got into a free-working finely 
divided state. The choice varieties will not decay in the ground if 
sown during the first fortnight in March, always providing the ground 
is not in a cold wet state. Sweet Peas might be sown and grown in 
patches of about six plants 5 feet apart through the centres of the beds 
of Asters, with little or no detriment to the latter, and they branch and 
flower grandly when thus kept in isolated groups. If preferred you 
could arrange continuous rows 9 feet apart, and fill in 6 feet of the 
space between with Asters. Anyway, there must be no crowding of the 
Peas, or they will fail to branch strongly, and not be continuous flower¬ 
ing accordingly. If the seed is sown in drills a pint of seed ought to be 
sufficient for rows equal to a length of 100 feet. Both rows and patches 
should be supported, but not too tightly, by good hazel stakes, or the best 
substitute for the same, and in dry weather occasional soakings with 
pond, or other soft water, varied by sewage water or liquid manure, 
may well be given, but if you have a deep strong soil these are not 
absolutely necessary. 
Orchard and Kitchen Carden {J. II. E. B. H .).—The old fruit 
trees may have the heads encumbered with weak and dead wood, and 
would be improved by a judicious thinning of the crowded parts and 
cutting out of the old wood. This should attended to without delay, 
performing the operation carefully, and with judgment, so as to open out 
the heads for the admission of air and light. Over-thinning is not 
desirable, but a moderate manipulation so as to admit of a person 
between the branches, and the spurs a good hand-breadth apart, is 
attended with good results. The grass would be best closely eaien off 
by sheep, supplied with hay, Swedes, Oats, or oilcake, and on different 
parts, so as to manure the ground equally. The droppings and urine, 
combined with the treading, would have a beneficial effect on the soil, 
not only in manuring it but in the destruction of larvre. If the trees 
are infested with moss and lichen they should be dusted whilst damp 
with quicklime, placing the lime in a coarse bag attached to the end of 
a pole, and a person with a ladder would readily distribute the lime over 
the trees on a still day. The ground may be dressed with Thomas’ 
phosphate powder 7 lbs., and kainit 2 lbs., mixed, per rod (30^ square 
yards) after the grass has been eaten off by sheep. If the sheep are not 
available the orchard should be well manured after the trees have been 
pruned, forty cartloads of stable or farmyard manure not being too 
much per acre for neglected orchards, but heavy dressings are often 
more prejudicial than otherwise, and judgment must be exercised. 
You will find particulars for making an Asparagus bed in the “ Garden 
Manual,” which will soon be republished, and may be had from this 
