February 16, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
143 
each other. From the base of each younp^ shoot, it must be borne in 
mind, a succession growth has to be selected and trained in during the 
summer. If, therefore, the young wood is trained in too closely there 
will not be room for successionai growths. Use clean, strong shreds and 
good nails, but as few as possible consistent with security. See that the 
shreds do not close round the wood, especially the young wood, too tightly, 
nor allow nails to press against the bark to injure it and cause gumming. 
Toj)-dressing the —Should the surface soil of the borders be 
•exhausted, and few fibrous roots to be found, clear away the old soil 
«ntil some roots are discovered, and add fresh compost, sweet loam con¬ 
taining some pulverised lime scraps and charred refuse. Too rich com¬ 
post is not desirable, but if the trees are weakly a good soaking of liquid 
manure would be beneficial. Ascertain first, however, that the border 
is not dry below ; because, if so, clear water should first be given. This 
would moisten the soil and prepare it for enrichment with something 
stronger and more stimulating. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
rigs.— Earliest Trees in Pots. —With a steady bottom heat of 70° to 
75° about the pots the roots are now very active, and the points of the 
rootlets showing at the surface is a clear indication of their eagerness 
for further supplies of nourishment. To supply that turves 3 inches 
thick and 1 foot long may be placed around the rims of the pots, 
extending a couple of inches inside the rim, and the other part of the 
turf projecting over may be turned down by the side of the pot, closely 
placing fermenting material against it. This will leave a receptacle 
around the stem for top-dressings of partially decayed lumpy manure, 
and the' roots will permeate the turf and pass along it over the 
pot rims into the fermenting material. Where there is not a 
fermenting bed hoops made of lead or zinc 4 inches deep should 
be placed inside the rims of the pots and occasional surface dressings 
given. Liquid manure in a tepid state may also be given in sufficient 
quantities to pass through to the drainage as required. Trees carrying 
full crops will require frequent supplies, and a varied dietary is more 
beneficial than always adhering to one kind of nourishment. Nitrate 
of calcium is the essential food of the Fig, but it must only be used in 
a weak state, say 1 oz. to 8 gallons of water regularly, or 1 oz. to 
4 gallons of water when given occasionally. Liquid manure from 
stables and manure yard tanks should be weak, pouring it on the 
turves as well as in the pots. Regularity in watering is a great point in 
the cultivation of Figs in pots. 
Keep the atmosphere in a genial condition by syringing twice a day 
when the weather is fine, and by damping the surface of the bed, walls, 
and paths when dull. Maintain a night temperature of G0°, 5° less on 
cold nights, 60° to 65° by day artificially when cold, and 10° to 15° rise 
with gleams of sun. Ventilate a little a t 70°, keep at 75° to 80° through 
the day with sun heat, and close early so as to run up to 85° or 90°. 
Stop and tie the growths as they advance, keeping them rather thin. 
Figs, to have flavour and colour, must be fully exposed to light and 
have a free circulation of air. 
Early-forced Fig Trees in Borders. —Those started early in January 
must be attended to in disbudding and stopping, leaving no more shoots 
than are required for extension, and a due supply of successionai bearing 
shoots. Extension shoots need no stopping, nor do successionai growths 
when the wood is sturdy, short-jointed, and fruitful. All the growths 
must be thinly and evenly disposed, stopping spur-shoots at the fifth or 
sixth leaf; but it is not advisable to encourage too many of these, as 
the best fruit is borne on the extension shoots, yet spurs give good 
results in the second crop. Mulch the borders with a rich compost as the 
roots rise to the surface, and supply tepid liquid manure freely. An 
occasional dressing of some approved advertised fertiliser, applied 
according to the instructions, accelerates root activity, as well as 
supplies nourishment, provided the surface of the border is kept properly 
moist. The temperature and atmospheric moisture should be similar to 
that advised for pot trees. 
Late Houses. —If these are expected to supply two crops of fruit the 
trees must be pruned and cleansed, and the houses started not later 
than the beginning of next month. Unheated houses are only fitted for 
producing one crop of fruit in August and September. The trees should 
now have the protection removed, be pruned and dressed, keeping the 
house as cool as possible so that they may start naturally. In unheated 
houses the growths should be kept thin, so that the young shoots may be 
firm, short-jointed, and with judicious management well matured, 
otherwise satisfactory crops are uncertain. 
"Pines. — Starting Suckers. —A batch of these will have to be started 
about the beginning of March to provide plants to give a succession of 
fruit from next December onwards. Attend, therefore, to the prepara¬ 
tion of a fermenting bed in some close structure to maintain a 
bottom heat of 85° to 90° near the surface, and with means of secur¬ 
ing a temperature of 55° to 65° with regularity. Attention must 
also be given to the preparation of the soil for potting, having it under 
cover to become warm and properly fit for use. 
Plants Started for Fruit in Becemher. —Those selected early in that 
month and advanced by an increased temperature are now showing 
fruit. As it is desirable to forward the ripening of the fruit of these 
plants as much as possible the temperature should be mamtained at 
65° to 70° at night, 5° to 10° more under favourable external conditions 
in the daytime, ventilating at 80°, allowing an advance to 85°, and 
closing the house at that temperature so as to husband the sun heat. 
The plants, now the fruit is advancing, will require more water at the 
roots, examining them once a week and affording a supply to those in 
need, as with more light and heat the demand increases. 
Recently Started Plants —This batch being intended to succeed 
those just named, the plants need not be hurried, but allowed to come on 
gradually in a temperature of 65° at night and 70° by day artificially, 
ventilating at 75° and closing at 80°. Due supplies of water should be 
given at the roots, but only when required, and always of a stimulating 
nature, say 1 lb. of guano to 20 gallons of w^ater. 
Peaches and N’ectarlnes.— Earliest House. —A steady progressive 
course is the safest, maintaining a night temperature of 50° to 55° in 
severe weather, and not more than 5° higher when the weather is mild, 
60° to 65° by day artificially, and 5° to 10° more with gleams of sun. 
Ventilate freely under favourable conditions, admitting a little air at 
60°, so as to insure a change of atmosphere. Regulate the growth by 
disbudding ; when strong the whole of the foreright shoots may be taken 
off at once, and some of the side shoots on the extensions be pinched 
back to form spurs. On shoots, however, that will be removed after the 
fruit is gathered the best break from the base and another above the 
fruit only must be retained. Give the basal growths room for extension 
and full exposure to light, and pinch the shoot reserved on a level with 
or above the fruit to two or three leaves. 
Second House. —Trees started at the new year and having previously 
been forced from that date have set the fruit, but those forced early for 
the first time are setting, and therefore daily resort to careful fertilisa¬ 
tion. When the fruits are all set, syringe with tepid water, which will 
soon clear them of the remains of the flowers. Avoid, however, excessive 
syringing, as it induces a soft growth. The night temperature should be 
kept at 50° ; 55° by day, and 5° to 10° advance from sun heat, ventilating 
freely whenever the weather is favourable. Defer disbudding until the 
fruit is fairly swelling, and proceed carefully and gradually, but follow 
it up when commenced, not deferring it so that large reductions of growth 
must be made at once. Checks of any kind are usually disastrous to the 
fruit. Supply water to inside borders so as to keep the soil in a health¬ 
fully moist state, but do not make it sodden and sour by needless 
supplies. 
Third House. —The trees started at the beginning of this month have 
the flowers advanced, and a close inspection should be made for aphides, 
or as a precautionary measure fumigate, having the trees dry, and 
repeating it on alternate evenings. Take care not to give an overdose, 
as that may discolour the corollas, and the blooms so damaged seldom 
set satisfactorily. When the anthers show clear of the petals, cease 
syringing the trees, yet maintain a genial atmosphere by damping 
available surfaces in the morning and afternoon. Maintain a day 
temperature of 50° by artificial means, 40° to 45° at night suffice by that 
agency. Ventilate at 55°, allow an advance to 60° or 65° from sun heat, 
with a free circulation of air. Make sure that there is not a deficiency 
of moisture in the inside border by examining it occasionally, and when 
necessary afford a thorough supply of water. 
Late Houses. —Keep these freely ventilated by night and day, except 
where the buds are advanced in swelling and when frost prevails. 
Houses from which the roof lights have been withdrawn need not have 
them replaced until the buds commence swelling and the most forward 
blossoms are showing colour. Where the roof lights are fixed they may 
be covered with mats on sunny days so as to retard the blossoming, and 
take care that the roots of the trees are kept properly moist. Neglect 
of due moisture at the roots often causes many of the buds to fall. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
iVealyptaas.— Plants used in the conservatory and afterwards cut 
back and placed in heat will have plenty of shoots to provide cuttings. 
These may be taken off and inserted in thumb pots in sandy soil. Give 
a good watering and plunge the pots in the propagating frame. The 
cuttings root freely and quickly if kept close. Plants with good heads 
that have become bare at the base may be notched and moss bound 
round the wounds. If these plants are kept close they will soon emit 
roots from the stem, and will be ready for taking off and placing singly 
in pots. Plants raised from tops should, if well cared for, make good 
specimens with bold foliage at the base. 
Euphorbias —Those plants that have done flowering should be 
kept on the dry side at their roots in a temperature of 50° to ensure a 
short rest before again starting them into growth to yield cuttings. 
Poinsettias may be subjected to the same treatment. 
Gardenias.— Young plants rooted in July or August may be placed 
into 5-inch pots. If possible plunge the plants where they can enjoy a 
slight bottom heat. When once they start into growth they will push 
up freely from the base and make excellent plants for flowering in one 
season. Plants that are swelling their flower buds push on in brisk heat. 
Others that have their flower buds just set must not be checked by keep¬ 
ing them in too low a temperature by giving them cold water, over¬ 
feeding, or the use of strong insecticides, or the flower buds will be 
deformed. Those plants that were cut back late and are not going to 
flower may have the points removed and then started into growth with 
the young stock. 
iisparagrus plumosus. —Cuttings may be inserted in thumb pots ; 
one joint with a small frond attached will be ample. Plunge the pots 
in the propagating frame. During the summer they will make good 
plants for table decoration and other purposes. When larger plants are 
needed put some of those raised last year from cuttings into 7-inch 
pots. A. plumosus nana must be increased by division. Select a plant or 
plants that have made a number of crowns and not started to run. 
These are the best for propagating purposes, and every piece with an 
eye will make a plant. When once established this plant does much 
better in a cool house than in heat, and is rarely attacked by insects 
unless it is aphides. 
