February 23, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
149 
flowers were by this simple means preserved, and now (February 
3rd) are bright and fresh. Another one, C. Decaisnei, which in 
1891 flowered in December, is now only piercing the soil prepara¬ 
tory to blooming. The yellow spring Meadow Saffron, 0. luteum, 
has not yet appeared, but I hope to see its yellow flowers ere 
long. 
The earlier Croci are unusually late, and C. Imperati, usually 
one of the earliest and best, is coming on but slowly, and to all 
appearance will not be long in advance of some of the others. 
Meanwhile C. vitellinus is the prettiest in flower outside where its 
yellow blossoms are much appreciated. A clump of C. longiflorus 
protected by a handlight, and one of C. Thomassi are still in flower. 
It is a pity that our winters are so stormy and so uncertain that 
we cannot enjoy these pretty flowers to the full in the garden. 
Many of these Crocus species are, however, worthy occupants 
of a cool greenhouse or of the alpine house, and in my cool green¬ 
house C. bannaticus and C. Korolkowi have opened their blossoms 
in advance of those of the same species grown in the open garden. 
Very beautiful is the former, and the latter, of a curious dusky or 
tawny brown outside and yellow inside, forms a fitting companion 
for the fine, deep purple flowers of C. bannaticus. 
The garden has now much of beauty in the way of foliage. 
Tufts of mossy verdure are shown by the Mossy Saxifrages and 
little mounds of silvery hue by the encrusted forms, besides the 
varied colours and tints of the flowering sisterhood now seeking to 
show that soon the glad time of spring will reveal to us that flush 
of beauty which she yearly brings. Thus, though the garden cannot 
as yet vie with the greenhouse with its forced Tulips, Narcissi, and 
the many flowers which its sheltering roof and its genial heat bring 
to view, it is at least not barren of interest; not a flowerless waste, 
but a spot where many gems may be seen and many lessons of 
beauty learned.—S. Arnott. 
PROPAGATING BEDDING PLANTS. 
Although many strains of Lobelias come fairly true iu habit 
and colour, it is still preferable to propagate from cuttings if a 
sufficient stock can be obtained to start with. Brighton Blue is, 
I think, still the best dark variety we have, and is largely pro¬ 
pagated in many gardens, but I find it a great advantage to have 
also a stock of plants bearing flowers of a much lighter shade. I 
made an excellent selection last year out of a number of seedlings, 
and we are now getting strong cuttings from old plants potted in 
the autumn. These are inserted an inch apart in shallow pans 
containing a layer of sharp sand, without drainage or soil. The 
pans are placed in a close warm pit with bottom heat, where they 
root rapidly, and are then transferred to boxes filled with rich light 
soil; in these the plants are placed 3 inches apart, are again trans¬ 
ferred to a close pit till growth is well advanced, when they are 
hardened off, and form good sturdy plants by bedding-out time. 
It is not necessary to spend time in cutting to a joint or trimming 
in any way, as they emit roots readily enough at any point when 
inserted. With the command of good bottom heat care should be 
taken not to allow the sand to become dry at any time, or when 
water is given the cuttings will decay under the surface of the 
sand, consequently many are led to think they have ‘‘ damped ” 
off on account of being kept too moist, whereas it is in reality 
the great change from aridity to moisture which has brought it 
about. 
Other excellent methods of propagating are to insert cuttings 
in well drained boxes containing a layer of soil 2 inches in 
depth. These boxes can be placed on shelves or over the hot- 
water pipes. In either case the essentials to success are the main¬ 
tenance of a temperature not less than 60° and uniformly moist 
soil ; the latter condition is best maintained by light but constant 
syringings. When only a limited number of cuttings can be obtained 
and it is desirable to increase the stock as fast as possible, a hand- 
light should be placed over the hot-water pipes or a flue in some 
warm comer ; if a bottom is then formed of boards and an inch of 
sharp sand placed on the top, an excellent propagating case is 
obtained, in which limited space large numbers of cuttings may be 
quickly rooted if each batch is transferred to boxes as soon as 
growth begins. 
Coleus are not generally wanted in very large numbers. A 
sufficient stock may therefore be readily raised by inserting the 
cuttings in 6-inch pots, these being well adapted for standing on 
hot-water pipes around Cucumber and Melon houses, positions in 
which they root quickly and with certainty. Bottom heat is the 
principle essential to success. If no better position presents itself 
than a vinery in which the temperature falls below 60° the cuttings 
ought to be placed under handlights, glasses, or frames. In all 
instances the plants should be placed into 3-inch pots when well 
rooted ; they will then, in a short time, supply other good cuttings. 
If these are not wanted for insertion they should still be removed 
to induce sturdy and compact growth. 
Alternantheras are usually required in large numbers on account 
of the great beauty of their varied markings. I have frequently 
noticed when about to commence the propagation of Alternantheras 
that the growth made during winter becomes hard and wiry, 
producing flowers freely up the stems, and many of these ultimately 
develop into seed pods. It is useless to insert such pieces as these, 
for they never make satisfactory progress. The best way to deal 
with plants in this condition is to shorten all growths to within 
an inch of their base, rub off any flowers which are left, and plunge 
the pots in bottom heat, good strong soft cuttings are then quickly 
produced. These root freely in almost any position where the 
temperature ranges from 60° to 80°. When their propagation is 
carried on in vineries in which the foliage on the Vines is in an 
advanced stage, it is important to keep the boxes near the front of 
the house, or on shelves ; otherwise many cuttings will be lost 
through damp. If a bed having pipes to supply bottom heat can 
be devoted to propagation purposes, thousands of plants may be 
speedily raised. A few inches of cocoa-nut fibre refuse, placed in 
the bottom, form excellent material to stand the boxes upon, or to 
plunge pots containing other cuttings in. When preparing compcst 
for Alternanthera cuttings I like it to consist of one-half leaf 
mould and a similar quantity of old potting soil. This mixture 
induces a quick and somewhat soft growth, exactly what we 
require when raising large numbers of this type of bedding plants. 
Mesembryanthemum variegatum requires a compost containing 
plenty of sharp sand or other gritty matter, and comparatively 
little leaf mould to insure the production of firm growth, which is 
not so liable to decay at the base as that grown in richer soil. 
Given good cuttings to begin with there should be no difficulty in 
rooting Mesembryanthemums without the loss through damp, 
which often occurs. Instead of being shaded from sunshine 
the cuttings should be placed in the full glare of it on shelves 
or stages near the glass, in a stove temperature, taking care that 
the soil is kept uniformly moist. Under such conditions 90 per 
cent, of the cuttings will root. 
Iresines should, if possible, be placed in a close frame where 
there is good bottom heat, otherwise their soft leaves shrivel much, 
and progress is greatly delayed. Ageratums will succeed admirably 
when given conditions similar to those recommended for Alternan¬ 
theras. They will, however, endure more shade, as damp seldom 
affects them. 
Fuchsias, Heliotropes, and Dahlias root well in a. temperature 
ranging a few degrees lower than the plants previously named 
require. In each case the cuttings should be kept close ; bottom 
heat is an advantage, but not a necessity. The showy plants last 
named should, if possible, be taken off with a heel, and be placed 
singly in pots. 
An excellent method of rooting Tuberous Begonias is to place 
cuttings singly in thumb pots, using loam and leaf soil in equal 
parts as the compost, and plunging the pots in fibre refuse where 
there is a slight bottom heat and a top temperature of 60°. If the 
house or pit in which they are located is kept close and moderately 
moist no additional covering of glass is necessary. No shade is 
required except in very bright weather. 
Every one of the above plants may be propagated freely on a 
hotbed made up in the open air with a frame placed upon it, but it 
is essential that the heat should be kept regular by the addition of 
linings. As soon as there are signs of its decline sawdust or fibre 
refuse ought to be placed upon the bed as a suitable medium for 
plunging in, and also to prevent the heat escaping rapidly. It is 
not wise to begin the propagation of such tender plants as Alter¬ 
nantheras and Coleus in a manure bed till the beginning of March, 
because in very severe weather much covering is necessary to 
prevent heat escaping. The cuttings in consequence become weak 
and drawn through want of light, and too wet through drip caused 
by condensed moisture.—D. W. 
SILVER MEDAL ESSAY. 
MANURES AND THEIR USES. 
By Mr. G. A. Bishop, The Gardens, Wightioich Manor, Wolverham 2 )ton. 
The constant removal of crops from the ground, and fruit from 
the trees and bushes, causes the removal of certain constituents which, 
if not restored, would eventually make the garden unremunerative. 
Gardens and fields thus robbed of their plant food are said to be 
exhausted, and the addition of the constituents which have been 
removed is what we know as manuring. In some cases the land is 
naturally poor ; it may be especially deficient in some particular con 
stituent which may be given to it in the form of manure. The manure 
