February 23, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
163 
figure. Admit air in the morning before the sun has raised the 
temperature more than 5° to 10°. This should be done without lowering 
the temperature, and the Vines will be saved from scorching. 
Strawberries In Pots. —Those ripening should have a rather dry 
and ffeely ventilated atmosphere to secure quality and aroma. The 
temperature for fruits swelling off should be 65° at night, 70° to 75° by 
day, advancing to 80° or 85° with sun. The second early plants having 
set well should be reduced to six or eight per plant if fine fruit is 
desired. When the fruit is fairly swelling the plants may be moved to 
a house with a temperature of 60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day, 
with an advance to 85° from sun heat, supplying them with liquid 
manure copiously, examining the plants once or twice a day, even three 
times in bright weather, and watering such as require it. Where there 
are vineries and Peach houses which are started periodically, and Straw¬ 
berries are grown in pots on shelves near the glass, there will be no 
need to move them, except to meet special requirements, as they will 
afford successional supplies of fruit. Introduce more plants as such 
houses are set to work, also place those in cool houses in the positions 
they are to occupy for fruiting. If plants are placed in span-roofed 
frames, half plunged in or stood upon ashes, fruit much finer and a fort¬ 
night to three weeks earlier than that in the open ground will be 
secured, the early and second early varieties producing freely, and are 
most desirable, especially Noble and Auguste Nicaise. 
melons.— The weather has not been unfavourable to forcing 
operations generally, and the plants are making satisfactory progress, 
especially those that were transferred to the ridges from the seed pots, 
the bottom heat being supplied by hot-water pipes in a chamber. In 
severe weather it is advisable to proceed carefully, as highly heated 
pipes do considerable injury to the foliage and invite attacks of red 
spider. A temperature of 60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day, and an 
advance to 80° or 85° with sun will be suitable, ventilating a little at 
75° and close at 85°, rising to 90° or more with plenty of atmospheric 
moisture. Plants that were shifted into 5 or 6-inch pots should be trans¬ 
ferred to the ridges or hillocks, firming the soil well about the balls. 
Provide a stake to each plant secured to the bottom wire of the trellis ; 
train with a clear stem to the trellis, rubbing off the laterals to that 
height directly they are discernible, and allow the leading shoots to 
extend two-thirds up the trellis before stopping. If the plants are short- 
jointed rub off every alternate lateral on the opposite sides of the principal 
shoots. Under favourable conditions the laterals will show fruit at the 
second or third joint, otherwise stop them at the second joint. Keep the 
bottom heat steady at 80°. Water carefully, and always at a little 
distance from the stem. A genial condition of the atmosphere should be 
maintained by damping in the morning and afternoon, also before dark 
if the surfaces become dry. 
Cucumbers. —Plants raised from seed sown at the new year, and 
transferred from the small pots to the ridges or hillocks in the Cucumber 
house, need not be stopped until they have extended two-thirds up the 
trellis. Train the laterals about 1 foot distance apart, and do not stop 
them until they have extended about two-thirds across their allotted 
space sideways. A vigorous growth is thus secured, and the plants will 
crop much better and longer than those which are pinched from near 
the bottom of the trellis with a view to early fruit. If the latter 
practice is followed, care must be taken not to overcrop the plants, or 
the growth will be started, and not enough made for successional 
bearing, upon which depends a regular supply of fruit. If the plants 
have been shifted into larger pots, and not yet turned out into the 
fruiting bed, it should be done before they become cramped at the 
roots. 
Winter Fruiters ,—The plants that have been in bearing will be 
much benefited by removing some of the surface soil, and supplying fresh 
lumpy loam, sprinkling a handful of superphosphate of lime overpach 
square yard. Now the light and sun heat tell advantageously and the 
plants feel their influence, a greater supply of atmospheric moisture is 
needed. Maintain a night temperature of 65°, allowing 5° more 
when the external air is mild, and 5° less in the morning when the 
weather is severe, 70° to 75° by day artificially, and keep through the 
day at 80° to 85° or 90° from sun heat, always securing a good heat in 
the afternoon by early closing, and if the temperature rise to 95° or 100° 
it will benefit the plants. Enough ventilation in the early part of fine 
days should be given to insure a change of air, avoiding cold currents. 
Liquid manure once or twice a week will be required by plants coming 
into bearing. Thin the fruits well, remove superfluous growths, bad 
leaves, tendrils, and male blossoms, stopping the shoots one joint beyond 
the fruit, and in no case permit crowding or overcropping. 
The plants in pits and frames are moving now the weather has 
become more favourable, but the foliage is tender, therefore ventilate 
carefully, avoiding currents of cold air, placing a thin mat or some 
hexagon netting over the openings so as to break the force of cutting 
winds. Cover the lights with double mats at night, and attend to the 
linings regularly, renewing the old linings as required. Prepare 
material for fre^h beds. Two parts Oak or Beech leaves, and one part 
stable litter, make the best beds at this time of the year. These should 
be thoroughly incorporated and thrown into a heap about a fortntght 
before it is desired to make the beds. In a few days it will be seen 
whether there is sufficient moisture to produce decomposition, to which 
fermentation ’or heat is due; if not, turn the whole, sprinkling with 
water so as to moisten the mass. When in good heat turn again outside 
to inside, blending the whole well, two or three turnings being required 
at intervals of four days to sweeten the material—and allow the rankness 
to pass off. The bottom heat of fermenting beds should be 85° to 90°. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Celery. —A first sowing of Celery ought now to be made. One of the 
dwarf early white varieties, Veitch’s Early Rose being a good companion 
for these, would be the best for ordinary purposes ; but if for early 
exhibition a taller variety, such for instance as Wright’s Giant White, is 
preferable. Sow the seed rather thinly in pans, place on a hotbed or 
in rather brisk heat, cover with a square of glass, shade heavily and 
keep uniformly moist till germination takes place, after which gradually 
expose to daylight and transfer to a shelf still in moderately strong 
heat. Early Celery does not always germinate so well as is desirable, 
therefore sow the seed rather freely though not thickly, and if the first 
sowing fails make a second sowing at once. 
Cauliflowers. —Small plants vintjred in cold frames w’onld be 
more readily planted if first established in small pots. Placed singly 
in 3 inch or slightly larger pots, good loamy soil being used, and set for 
a few weeks on a warm greenhouse shelf or in a slightly heated pit, 
they would develop into strong well rooted plants that would move into 
handlights and other sheltered quarters without experiencing much of 
a check. Any plants raised early this year should be also potted in 
preference to pricking in boxes, as they cannot often be moved out of 
the latter with a good ball of soil about the roots. A light position in 
gentle heat is the best place for these young plants and also for pans 
containing newly sown seed. If there is a poor stock of autumn raised 
plants of Dwarf Erfurt, Early London, or other favourite second early 
forms, sow seed in pans or boxes at once. Also raise early plants of 
Autumn Giant, which if properly treated will commence hearting in late 
in August. Should a good stock of Early Forcing or Dean’s Snowball 
have been raised, put out the surplus plants or those not required for 
growing under glass, either in rough frames at the foot of south walls 
or on warm borders, before they become badly root-bound, and protect 
with mats. 
Onions. —It is yet too early to sow seed in the open, but if extra 
fine exhibition bulbs are required plantfs must be raised under glass. 
Ailsa Craig, Anglo-White Spanish, Sandy Prize, Improved Wroxton, 
and Rousham Park Hero are all more or less popular with exhibitors ; 
and seed being rather dear, sowing in heat is also the most economical 
plan. If the seed is sown thinly in pans, or better still large shallow 
boxes, the plants can eventually be transferred direct from these to the 
open ground. A vinery being forced, or other moderately warm forcing 
house, is suitable for raising Onions, the plants being raised well up to 
the light before they become drawn and weakly. 
Xieeks. —If these are also wanted extra strong and early for exhibi¬ 
tion purposes, seed of The Lyon, Dobbie’s Champion, Prizetaker, or 
any other large-growing variety should be sown at once in heat, the 
plants to be treated very similarly to early Celery. 
Carrots. —Unless there is an extra demand for tender young Carrots, 
two good sowings under glass will generally meet the case, successional 
supplies being had from a warm border. In very many instances no 
glazed lights can be spared for early Carrot culture, and in all such 
cases it is a good plan to form a hotbed in a sheltered position, surmount¬ 
ing this either by a rough frame or with boards held together by means 
of outside stakes driven well into the manure. About 6 inches of fine 
sandy soil should be placed on the manure, and the Carrot seed be then 
sown either in shallow drills 8 inches apart or thinly broadcast, and 
covered with a little sifted soil. If the variety Nantes Horn is selected, 
a single bed will yield numerous bunches of early and very tender roots 
by way of thinnings, those reserved being left till the roots are large 
enough for the July or early August shows. Roots thus grown are 
particularly well formed and have clear skins. 
Early Radishes. —These may always be sown either in drills 
midway between the rows of Carrots or thinly broadcast. They will 
be fit for use some time before all the space is needed by the Carrots. 
Supposing these beds are formed and the seed sown late in February or 
early in March, temporary protection in the shape of a rough framework 
supporting mats or old carpeting will be needed, though in some cases 
strong stakes about 4 feet high are used for the double purpose, keeping 
the boards together and supporting a covering of trebled fish nets, all 
the protection afforded. If desired, such heaps of manure and soil may 
be utilised for growing Vegetable Marrows during the summer. 
Early Turnips. —Frosts have destroyed nearly or quite all the 
roots left in the open, and the stock under cover is far from being 
enough in most cases, to carry on the supply till young Turnips are 
available from the open borders. This being so those who have the 
convenience ought to grow some under glass. Anything like hard 
forcing is out of the question, but the Extra Early Milan can be 
forwarded very considerably in a frame on a gentle hotbed. The frame 
after being set on the bed should be about half filled with some of the 
shortest of the heating material, on this being placed 6 inches of good 
loamy soil. Make the latter somewhat firm ; sow the seed thinly and 
broadcast, and cover with fine soil. Either cover with glazed lights and 
mats during nights, or with the latter only. In the former case venti¬ 
late rather freely after the plants are up, giving abundance of air during 
warm weather, and thin early where at all crow Jed. If the plants are 
left about 4 inches apart the thinning-out can be done according as the 
roots attain a serviceable size. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
iVlocaslas. —Plants that need more room should be repotted at 
once. Work old decomposed material carefully from amongst the roots, 
which is best done by washing it out in tepid water. The plants should 
be allowed to drain thoroughly before they are again placed into pots. 
