March 2, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
187 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN, 
Planting Fruit Trees. —When spring planting of fruit trees is 
necessary the first opportunity of doing the work should be taken. 
Deep digging of the ground is advisable where trees and bushes are to 
be planted somewhat thickly for furnishing the space at once, thinning 
out being intended when required. On ground thus prepared the trees 
for permanently occupying the site may be jdanted at the usual 
distances, the ground between to be temporarily filled with bush fruit. 
Isolated specimens will require stations preparing 6 feet in diameter, or 
a little less, according to the size of the trees. Deep digging or trench¬ 
ing is only advisable on well-drained ground, whether rendered so by 
natural or artificial draining. On wet cold soils with damp adhesive 
subsoils it is better to leave the bottom undisturbed, and to provide a 
better and warmer root-run above rather than below the surface. The 
conditions thus secured in unfavourable situations will conduce to satis¬ 
factory growth, which may be expected to become properly ripened. 
Obtaining the Trees. —The best forms of trees for planting in spring 
when they have to be obtained from a distance are maidens, two-year- 
old trained and partly formed bushes of this age being suitable. 
Larger and older trees, well prepared by preliminary liftings to keep the 
roots at home, move readily from one part of a garden to another, as a 
quantity of soil can be taken with them, and the removal and planting 
expeditiously carried out. It is important to preserve as many young 
fibrous roots intact as possible. Nurserymen as a rule carefully pack 
the roots of fruit trees in moist material as soon as possible after lifting, 
thus insuring the trees being delivered to their customers in a proper 
manner for planting. This must be followed up by the prompt action 
of the planter in transferring the trees to the quarters intended for 
them. Should that not be practicable at the time carefully lay the trees 
in, or keep them in a cool place with the packing material around them. 
Every care taken of the roots is amply repaid. Trees arriving in a dry 
state at the roots must undergo resuscitation by plunging them both root 
and branch into a pond for some hours. 
Hints on Planting. —The greatest care is required in planting trees 
and bushes when no soil is attached to the roots. The first requisite is 
to have the holes wide enough and of such a depth that the uppermost 
roots will not be covered more than 3 or 4 inches. Wide holes admit of 
the roots with all their attendant fibres being regularly laid out in a 
horizontal position. Work among the latter some fine loamy soil, 
spreading it from the stem outwards, so that each rootlet is encouraged 
to lay in its proper position, Soil placed heedlessly on the fibres is apt 
to reverse their points, causing them to grow inwards. Cut all bruised 
roots smoothly, and remove injured portions. New fibres will issue 
from smoothly cut roots much sooner than they possibly can from 
mutilated or jagged extremities. Trees also establish themselves quicker, 
and better growth follows. 
Treatment after Planting. —All trees not able to resist swaying by 
the wind must be securely staked and tied in such a manner that they 
can subside with the soil. Mulch the surface o rer the roots with strawy 
manure or partially decomposed leaves. Heavy decayed manure is 
not desirable, as it is too close and heavy. The object of the mulching 
is not to afford sustenance, but rather to conserve the moisture in the 
surface soil, while affording opportunity for the natural heat to pass 
through and warm it. 
Pruning. —This is a matter claiming some judgment. Autumn 
planted trees will require leading branches to be shortened in propor¬ 
tion to the treatment the roots received. Shortening them to half 
length usually suffices, lateral growths being cut in to a few buds. 
Maiden trees, if intended to be grown into trained specimens, must be 
shortened to a length of 12 to 15 inches from the junction of stock with 
scion. The number of branches it is intended to take the first year, 
will, however, afford some guidance. Trees already formed into shape 
will need but little shortening, especially if the fibrous roots were pre¬ 
served at planting, and those equally distributed ; but if large reduc¬ 
tions were made the branches must be shortened to correspond, or 
unsatisfactory growth will follow. Lifting and transplanting trees 
w'ith good balls of roots from one part of the garden to another will 
necessitate no pruning as regards shortening. Weak and crowded wood 
may be cut out, and rambling roots of a fleshy character curtailed. 
Protection for Wall Trees. — Moveable protective material 
should be fixed in good time. Roller blinds or sliding arrangements of 
tiffany, scrim or canvas, often prove as useful for retarding trees 
coming into blossom as they do for preserving it and the young fruit 
from injury. Protection is also needed at times on account of the havoc 
made by birds, which destroy the buds of Cherries, Plums, Pears, and 
other fruit trees. Fish nets, however, are best for this purpose. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest House. —Now the fruit is 
stoning the temperature must be kept as equable as possible. Too high 
a temperature, especially at night, is not favourable to the process, and 
sudden fluctuations often causes the fruit to drop wholesale. The 
temperature should be continued at 60° to 65° at night in mild weather,. 
55° to 60° when severe ; 60° to 65° on cold dull days, 65° to 70° when, 
mild but sunless, 70° to 75° with a gleam of sun, ventilating early and 
freely under favourable climatic conditions. Thinning the fruit must 
be seen to, not allowing twice as many fruits to stone as are to be left 
for the crop, but a few more than the required number should be 
retained to meet casualties in stoning. One fruit to a square foot of 
trellis covered by the trees is a fair apportionment ; small-fruitecl 
varieties may have the fruit left a little closer, and vigorous trees will 
carry more than weakly trees. Overcropping, however, must be strictly 
avoided. Nectarines require the same space as Peaches to have fine 
fruit. Secure all the shoots to the trellis as they advance in growth, 
stopping any that are likely to exceed 12 to 15 inches at those lengths, 
and if the pinching results in laterals stop them at the first leaf. Shoota 
retained to attract the sap to the fruit should be stopped to one leaf. 
Extensions should be trained in their full length, pinching laterals at 
one joint as made. Syringe the trees in the morning and afternoon 
wffien the days are fine, but damping available surfaces will be sufficient 
in dull weather, with an occasional forcible syringing, to keep red 
spider under. If the pest gains a footing extirpate it by the prompt 
application of an approved insecticide, or a solution of softsoap, 2 ozs. 
to a gallon of water. Inside borders must be duly supplied with water 
or liquid manure in a tepid state, but avoid over-stimulation whilst the 
fruit is stoning. 
Second Early House. —Disbudding must be proceeded with gradually, 
and the successional bearing shoots should be laid in as soon as they 
are sufficiently advanced in growth. Thinning the fruit must be attended 
to as soon as the remains of the flowers are cast. Remove all tain 
fruit, the smallest, that on the under side of the branches, and the badly 
placed, leaving three on a branch of 12 inches length, to be afterward* 
reduced to two on a strong and one on a weak branch when cf the 
size of marbles. Only one fruit as a rule should be left on each bearing 
shoot, but two may remain if there be a deficiency in other parts of 
the tree. The fruit will rapidly swell to the size of small Walnuts, (he 
temperature by that time having been increased to 55° to 60° at night, 6G° 
to 65° by day from artificial heat, and 70“ to 75° from sun heat, with a 
free circulation of air from 65“, avoiding cold and drying currents. 
Syringing the trees twice a day in bright weather, and occasionally in 
dull weather, with damping the floors once or twice a day will keep red 
spider under, and maintain a genial atmosphere. 
Succession Houses. —Trees now in bloom require a free circulation of 
air, or such as will keep the atmosphere buoyant with sufficient fire heat 
to prevent sudden depression of temperature, maintaining 50° at night 
or a few degrees less on cold nights. A temperature of 50° to 55° will 
be suitable in the daytime, advancing to 60° or 65° from sun heat with 
free ventilation. Shake the trellis or trees occasionally to distribute the 
pollen, or preferably, pass a camel’s-hair brush or feather over the flowers 
that have ripe pollen once a day, and give extra attention to the shy¬ 
setting varieties by conveying pollen from others that produce it in 
abundance, as for instance Royal George and Stirling Castle Peaches, 
also Elruge Nectarine. Keep the paths well damped on fine days, and 
be more sparing of water when the weather is dull and cold. 
Late Houses. —The roof lights need not be put on until the buds 
show the silvery integuments that envelope the floral organs, but they 
are not safe after the blossoms show colour. Trees under fixed roofs are 
more forward, the buds being in various degrees of lexpansion. Where 
syringing has been practised it must be discontinued as soon as the 
anthers show clear of the corolla, but damp the floor in the morning and 
afternoon, leaving a little air on constantly at the top of the house. 
No more fire heat should be used than is absolutely necessary, but after 
the flowers show the stamens a certain amount of warmth is needed, for 
when the atmosphere is cold and moist, and the flowering extends over 
a considerable period, the fruits do not set well ; therefore, after the 
blossoms open maintain a temperature of 40° to 45° at night, 50° to 55° 
by day artificially, with a free circulation of air, advancing to 65° with 
sun. In the case of weak trees having a superabundance of blossom it 
is advisable to remove the flowers from the under side of the shoots or 
the back, as the trees may be against front or back trellises. The 
borders should be kept healthfully moist. 
Figs. — Earliest Forced Trees in Pots. —The fruits will soon have 
completed their first swelling, and they then remain apparently 
stationary for some time. This is the most critical stage in their 
culture, and every care must be taken not to give a check, whether 
caused by excessive heat or want of moisture. In mild weather the 
temperature may be kept at 60° to 65° at night, but if cold 5° less will 
be found safer. Progress is best made in the daytime by closing with 
plenty of heat and moisture, a rise being indulged in of 10° to 15° with¬ 
out producing a weak or elongated growth, keeping through the day 
with gleams of sun at 70° to 75°. Red spider must be kept under by 
copious syringing on all favourable occasions. Afford a steady supply of 
liquid manure to the roots, as Figs in full growth require generous 
support, and can hardly be over-watered, provided the drainage is 
thorough. 
Succession Houses. —Crowded growths must be thinned, but they are 
better prevented by disbudding, leaving no more shoots than space 
permits. Where extension or successional growth cannot be allowed 
the shoots may be pinched at the fourth or fifth leaf to form spurs, 
these giving good results in the second crop ; but avoid crowding as the 
greatest of evils. Syringe the trees twice a day, and keep the borders 
well supplied with tepid diluted liquid manure. 
Young Trees in Pots, —Those intended for next year’s forcing should 
