March 9, 1893, ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
196 
in some cases, and to point Low success bas been achieved in others. 
A tree that has to struggle with adverse climatic conditions, 
attended by hosts of insect and f ungal enemies, cannot possibly 
succeed as well as another more befitting the position. Culti¬ 
vators that note the natural fitness of things, Nature’s selection, 
and, being guided by experience, proceed on like principles in their 
culture, cannot fail of a large measure of success. Those, however, 
that will cling to Nature’s rejections, insist on attempting to culti¬ 
vate varieties that experience has proved unfitted to open air 
culture, must be prepared to afford them protection against adverse 
climatic circumstances, either by growing them in forms available 
for it, or against walls or under glass. 
Relative to the protection of fruit tree blossoms, it may be 
observed that none is altogether frost proof. The late Mr. j. R. 
Peirson held that dryness was the chief thing to aim at in protect¬ 
ing blossom from frost, and advocated open glass sheds as sufficient 
for those of the Apricot, Of such I have no experience. Perhaps 
the Messrs. Pearson will kindly say if the system is now practised 
and with what results. I have, however, found Apricot blossoms 
to endure frosts against cottage and farm house walls that were 
unprotected, and come out of the ordeal unscathed, whilst 
those on trees against a garden wall, and with a double thickness 
of herring netting over the trees, were blackened and the young 
fruit parboiled. This can only be accounted for by the projecting 
eaves and the greater warmth and dryness of the cottage and farm 
house walls preventing the deposition of dew, consequently the 
better resistance of the blossoms to frost, I have also observed 
that when a garden wall had a projecting temporary coping of 
wood or glass, and the netting was suspended from its outer edge, 
reaching to within 18 inches of the ground, that the blossoms 
were quite safe when those of trees similarly protected, but with¬ 
out the coping, were seriously damaged. This demonstrated the 
importance of dryness, and I found it applied to all fruit tree 
blossoms. Some gardeners do not believe in walls for Apricots 
and Peaches or Nectarines, alleging that Pears and choice Plums 
are more suitable for south walls ; but Pear blossom appears 
so early in such positions, that, without protection, they are not 
more certain than Apricots, Peaches or Nectarines. I am not going 
to discuss the question of aspects, but it is as well to know that a 
Jargonelle Pear tree on the south side of a wall may be fruitless, 
whilst another on the north side is loaded with fruit the same 
season. Much depends on seasons and circumstances, though 
one thing is certain, that expanded blossoms must have pro¬ 
tection from frost if fruit is to be had with certainty. There 
is no question as to the value of something projecting at the 
top of the wall at blossoming time. It may be only that 
of a few inches of slates or tiles with guttering to carry off the 
roof water of a building, and thus it will keep the wall dry a 
considerable way down. I mention this because it is worth know¬ 
ing, that the ends and sides of houses and other buildings are 
better adapted for choice fruit culture than garden walls in many 
localities. Such Pears as Jargonelle, Triomphe de Vienne, Louise 
Bonne of Jersey, Durondeau, Marie Louise, Emile d'Heyst, Pit- 
maston Duchess, Beurre Baltet Pere, Doyenne du Cornice, Glou 
Mor 9 eau, Beurre d’Anjou, Josephine de Malines, Nouvelle Fulvie, 
and Bergarootte Esperen are reliable sorts to afford a succession of 
fruit from August to May. Magnate and Beurre Diel produce 
enormously large and good fruit. 
Apricot blossoms are the first to require attention. It is won¬ 
derful what may be effected by a little trouble and expense. Some 
dry straw threaded through the branches and amongst the spurs, so 
as to form meshes about half the size of those of a sheep net, and 
with the ends of the straws projecting a little be 3 'ond the spurs 
and inclining downward, forms a good protection. Effected in a 
neat matter when the blossoms show colour, and left until the 
trees have produced enough leaves to protect the fruit, there is 
generally a crop of Apricots. This simple plan answers for all 
kinds of fruit blossoms, the straw being excellent for placing over 
the roots as a mulch when removed from the trees. Another 
excellent method is to procure small twiggy branches of Hazel, 
Hornbeam, or Birch, and place them in behind the main branches 
of wall trees so as to hang over the blossoms, but not to unduly 
rest upon them, and only sufficiently thick to form a net-like 
covering. These are better than Spruce and other evergreen 
branches, though the latter are good when they do not exclude too 
much light. A third method is to procure some stout poles, long 
enough to reach the top of the wall beneath the eaves or coping 
when set a few inches in the ground 18 inches from the foot of 
the wall to keep them steady. Then make some soft straw or coarse 
haybands, with plenty of ends sticking out, and place them across 
the poles (fixed about 6 feet apart) longitudinally, the first just 
clear of the eaves or wall coping, the next 6 inches lower, the third 
9 inches from the second, the fourth 1 foot from the third, and 
so on to 18 inches from the ground. The bands should be drawn 
tight, secured to the poles, and made fast at the ends. The object 
is to keep the hoarfrost on the bands, where it may be thawed in 
the morning by the sun instead of on the blossoms. 
Espalier trees may have Scarlet Runner stakes thrust into the 
ground on both sides, crossed and tied about 1 foot above the trees, 
a stout feathery straw band run along the forks directly over the 
espalier, and then similar bands at the sides, as described for wall 
trees. Pyramids and bushes can have poles or stakes thrust or 
fixed in the ground around them, so that when their upper ends 
are brought together and tied they will be clear of the trees. If 
the trees are in lines, the stakes or poles should be set parallel with 
the rows and meet over the centre, placing a rod lengthwise and 
resting in the fork so as to form a ridge piece. Straw bands may 
then be wound round the stakes, and at the distances named for 
those against walls. Trees in continuous lines should have a stout 
straw band fixed along the ridge, and the bands at the sides 
disposed as advised for placing across the poles in front of wall trees. 
Another plan of protecting bushes, pyramids, and espaliers is to 
place untrimmed Pea sticks around or along both sides, and 
arched over the trees, meeting or overlapping ; and this simple 
method surpasses opaque material kept constantly over the trees. 
If the Pea sticks are twiggy, as Hazel and Hornbeam are, no 
further protection is needed unless the weather is exceptionally 
severe. 
Straw mats secured to a light wood frame and that to poles, as 
advised for straw bands, are excellent for low walls or espaliers, 
using them only at night or during the prevalence of frost in the 
daytime. Close protective material must not reach entirely to the 
ground, but be kept fully 1 foot from it. Light awnings of tiffany, 
brown hessian, or scrim canvas, kept clear of the blossoms by 
stakes at the sides or around bush, pyramid, or espalier trees, with 
laths at the top to form the roof, afford needful protection. The 
sides may remain covered until it is necessary to remove the 
material altogether, but the top part must be withdrawn on fine 
days and when the weather is mild, an opening at the top and 
bottom being necessary to admit air. 
Gooseberry and Currant bushes may be covered with tiffany or 
scrim canvas, but not reaching to the ground, and the material is 
easily kept in position with string secured to pegs driven into the 
ground. A little dry straw spread over the bushes when severe 
frost prevails, will afford the needful shelter and prevent the 
injurious effects of sudden thawing. 
I will now return to wall trees. Copings have been alluded to, 
but I may reiterate for elucidation. A | inch board, 11 inches 
wide, fixed immediately under the wall coping to iron brackets 
slightly inclining outwards, answers for a wall of 10 feet high or less, 
one 14 inches wide is better for a wall 12 feet or more in height, 
and with a single thickness of pilchard or double herring netting 
in front of the trees, kept at a safe distance by poles, afford the 
needful protection to all but the tenderest blossoms. The netting 
and the coping boards should be removed when danger from frost 
is past. Glass coping projecting 2 feet for a 10-feet wall, and 2 feet 
6 inches for a 12-feet wall, afford valuable shelter to blossoms 
and improve the fruit in cold districts. There are various forms ; 
some are fixed to the wall, and the glass is easily taken out, others 
are “ reversible,” so that they can be withdrawn by day or when 
rain falls to wash the trees and moisten the border. As a rule it 
should be removed in the autumn and replaced when the blossoms 
need protection. Netting should be suspended from the front, 
and be kept clear of the trees. 
For the protection of choice wall fruit tree blossom woollen 
materials, as worsted netting or frigi domo, are slower cold¬ 
conducting mediums than scrim canvas or brown hessian. 
Although I have used all these and many other substances, and 
prefer quarter-inch mesh wool netting, there is no objection to 
ordinary canvas or other material that may be sewn together and 
so made available. All points, however, considered, and material 
having to be purchased, scrim canvas No. 3 is the most serviceable 
for Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines, No. 2 for other trees on 
south walls, and No. 1 for those on east or west walls. It must be 
kept from the blossoms. I use sawn larch poles 2 inches square 
(other kinds will do as well, only larch are the most durable), 
and place them 6 feet apart, the top resting under the coping, and 
the bottom let into the ground sufficiently to prevent displacement, 
18 inches for a 10 feet, and 2 feet for a 12 feet, from the wall. At 
2 feet from the ground a hole is bored with a half-inch auger in the 
outer face of each pole, driving in a hardwood peg projecting 
9 inches forward. These support the canvas when lowered, A 
line of sash-cord is attached to one edge of the canvas opposite 
each pole, which has a stout ring with a staple near the top, so as 
to let the ring hang loose. Through this ring the line is passed 
from the under side for pulling up or letting down the canvas. 
Pulleys are better than rings, but cost more, yet it is saved 
