206 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 9. 1893. 
deciduous. The flowers occur in clusters of three or four, and each one 
is IJ inch in diameter, the colour being a bright pinkish purple. If 
we are favoured with mild weather for the next few weeks this plant 
will make one of the brightest pictures in the garden, although it must 
be said there is always the danger of a sharp frost (a few degrees do not 
materially aff' ct them) prematurely destroying the flowers. For the green¬ 
house this hybrid is exceptionally valuable, being forced into flower at 
an early season by very little heat. 
Daphne mezereum. — During late years the popularity of this 
shrub appears to have in a great measure revived, and not only is the 
old typical form to be frequently seen, but several of the newer varie¬ 
ties are evidently becoming better known. Whether the species is 
indigenous to Britain or not is doubtful, but it occurs wild in several 
parts of England, although nowhere plentifully. Three hundred years 
ago it was grown by Gerard in his garden at Holborn, and is mentioned 
in the famous “ Herbal ” he published near the end of the sixteenth 
century. At any season of the year its quiet beauty and pleasant 
fragrance would, I consider, entitle it to a prominent place in the 
garden, but commencing to flower as it does in January and continuing 
through the two following months, its merits are very much enhanced. 
I have seen a plant 6 feet high, but it is only very old specimens that 
attain that size, and as a rule one sees them averaging from 2 to 3 feet. 
In well grown plants, which have been thoroughly ripened the previous 
summer and autumn, the shoots should be covered with the purplish red 
flowers for 6 inches to 9 inches of their length. The variety grandiflora 
has beautiful purple flowers of exceptional size, and some plants that 
we have of it have been in bloom since the beginning of the year. 
Another variety not very often seen has creamy white flowers ; it is 
named alba. In cottage gardens, where occasionally very fine examples 
may be seen, the common D. mezereum is known as the Spurge Flax or 
Dwarf Bay.—W. J. B. 
MILDEW IN VINERIES. 
Many are the reasons assigned for mildew attacking Vines, such as 
drought at the roots, accompanied with a low moist atmosphere, insuffi¬ 
cient ventilation, and so on. In my opinion, draughts of cold air 
blowing directly across the bunches at the time the Vines are in bloom 
is one of the causes, if not the principal one, of mildew. My experience 
is, that this fungus appears in nine cases out of ten when the berries 
are the size of Peas, and spreads rapidly over the stems of both bunch 
and berries if not checked by some means. 
The method adopted by some persons of admitting air to houses 
during the time the Vines are in bloom is open to question. At the 
me late varieties of Grapes are in flower (generally in April) 
hot sun, accompanied with cold east wind, is very often prevalent. 
Some cultivators are believers in admitting a free current of air to the 
vineries through the front ventilators, as well as by those at the top of 
the house, to effect a free dispersal of the pollen from the stigma. This 
manner of setting the Grapes may be in their opinion the best; but 
from experience I can positively say that it is the worst, and certainly 
one to be avoided by all those who prefer not to have a full crop of 
mildew to battle with. Last summer I saw many vineries badly infested 
with this pest, in some instances to such an extent as to render the 
whole crop useless. This was due in almost every case to indiscreet 
ventilation occasioning cold draughts of air to be blown directly across 
the bunches. 
Many persons would feel some qualms as to whether the bunches 
would be afterwards presentable after being dredged over with flowers 
of sulphur. Even in the most careful of hands it is difficult to remove 
it entirely without leaving some trace behind. A safer plan, although 
perhaps not a surer cure, is to paint the stems of the Vines their whole 
length with flowers of sulphur mixed to about the consistency of paint, 
also the hot-water pipes, and sprinkle dry sulphur about the house. At 
the same time the pipes should be made quite hot, so as to throw off the 
sulphur fumes, which is fatal to the germs of mildew. 
I do not scruple to dust any affected leaves with the sulphur as well, 
neither should I part a bunch if T found the presence of the mildew 
before the whole crop was affected. By keeping the temperature 
higher and the atmosphere drier by the aid of fire heat mildew 
can be stamped out of any vinery without the trouble of lifting 
the Vines, providing, of course, the attack is the result of a wrong 
method of ventilation. This subject crops up at an opportune moment, 
giving those persons who have but little experience an opportunity to 
guard against the admission of draughts of cold air direct to the 
bunches.— Observer. 
Prevention Better than Cure. 
Had Mr. Thomas (page 169) but placed the above heading to his 
paper on mildew, he would perhaps have been nearer the mark. He 
admits that in his method of dealing with the plague of mildew on 
Vines there was nothing new, but at least he does very strongly 
emphasise the importance of doing the thing drastically, if done at 
all. At the best, however, Mr. Thomas does but recognise the fact that 
the sulphur treatment is only a palliative or temporary cure, and does 
not remove the predisposing cause of the disease, hence the great value 
of his concluding paragraph. Just as in humanity ninety-nine out of 
every hundred physical ills come from the stomach, so in plants or 
trees do the chief ills come from the roots. It is there where those 
who are in their gardens afflicted with vegetable ills should look 
primarily for causes. 
Plants of all descriptions, if all be well at the roots, seem to have 
inherent power to withstand atmospheric difficulties, but the moment 
there is anything wrong at the roots then they succumb. Even attacks 
of insect pests are never so harmful or difficult to cope with if all be 
well at the roots, as when all is wrong vegetable life can then do 
nothing to help get rid of the parasites. There can be no question 
but that in relation to roots, their functions, requirements, and foods, 
there is very much to be learned by the average gardener. Not all 
plant troubles, of course, are due to deficient root action ; some, indeed, 
are due to too gross root action, when excessive sappines* does but make 
growth more amenable to diseases.—A. D. s3 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Early Houses. —When the Vines start very slowly and the 
bunches show a tendency to blindness, and others not advancing freely, 
they are certain indications of imperfectly formed buds, immature 
wood, and defective root action. Under such circumstances a slight 
increase of temperature and a reduced supply of moisture may be 
beneficial, but the only remedy is border renovation, encouraging growth 
and exposing it fully to light, with less close pruning. Thinning the 
berries should be kept well in hand, commencing as soon as those likely 
to swell freely can be detected, leaving the berries with room to attain 
their full size without wedging. Supply liquid manure to inside borders 
after the berries have been thinned, applying it in a tepid state. This, 
with a liberal supply of atmospheric moisture, especially at closing time, 
will materially assist the swelling of the Grapes. The winds are often 
sharp when the days are sunny, and every care should be taken to 
prevent sudden changes of temperature. Admit air carefully, closing 
early in the afternoon at 85°, so as to enclose the sun heat, and insure a 
good heat from that source in the latter part of the day, allowing the 
temperature to fall to 65° at night. Whilst stoning the Grapes are not 
materially benefited by a close, moist, and high temperature ; but when 
the stoning is completed they swell rapidly, and should be encouraged 
by a moist atmosphere, liberal supplies of liquid manure at the roots, 
ventilating early and closing in the afternoon. Continue this until 
the Grapes change colour, when they must have air more freely. Keep 
the laterals properly regulated, but allow some extension, as every leaf 
encourages root action, and it is necessary to maintain that for a due 
supply of nourishment, with the foliage fully exposed to light for i‘s 
assimilation. 
Fruiting Vines in Puts. —These must sustain no check through dry¬ 
ness at the roots or want of food, supplying liquid manure liberally, 
surfacing the pots with rich material, and if the roots extend beyond the 
pots feed them there as well as in the pots. 
Siicoe.ssion Houses. —The Vines started early in the year are now in 
flower, and a rather dry atmosphere, with a free circulation of air, and 
a temperature of 65° to 70° at night and 70° to 75° by day artificially, 
advancing 10° to 15° from sun heat, are conducive to a good set. 
Maintain a moderate moisture by damping the house two or three times 
a day in bright weather. Any shy-setting varieties, such as Muscats, 
should be kept 5° higher, the flowers being carefully fertilised with 
pollen taken from the free-setting varieties, as Black Hamburghs. The 
Vines started at the beginning of last month will require attention for 
disbudding and securing the growths as they advance, stopping the 
shoots two joints beyond the bunch where the space is limited, but 
where there is room allow extension. Remove all superfluous and 
ill-formed bunches of the free-setting varieties as soon as those that are 
most promising for the crop can be determined, and those of the shy¬ 
setting should be reduced in a similar manner after they are sufficiently 
advanced for deciding on the best likely to mature. 
Late Houses. —The midseason varieties intended to afford Grapes in 
August forward should now be started. Late Hamburghs, however, may 
be kept cool and not started until next month. Muscats, Alicantes, 
Lady Downe’s, and other late varieties should be encouraged to move 
now, as they require a long season to grow and perfect their fruit, which 
should be effected early in September for the Grapes to keep satis¬ 
factorily. Inside borders must be brought into a thoroughly moist state 
by the application of water, but a saturated condition is not advisable, as 
it hinders rather than assists root formation. Outside borders will not 
require more than a light mulch of lumpy, partially decayed manure. 
The atmosphere should be kept moist by damping the Vine rods and 
every available surface two or three times a day, 50° being a sufficiently 
high night temperature, 55° by day artificially, and 65° with sun. 
Young canes should be depressed to insure their pushing the buds 
evenly ts the base. 
Vines Raised from Eyes. —The “ eyes ” inserted as before advised 
will now be well rooted, and should be shifted into 6-inch pots, placing 
them on shelves of stone or slate over the hot-water pipes in preference 
to plunging in bottom heat. Syringe tepid water well amongst them 
and pinch the laterals at the first leaf. The canes should be trained to 
wires about 1 foot from the glass. 
Cut-hach Vines. —Vines cut back for fruiting in pots next season will 
now have made a little fresh growth and be fit for shaking out and 
