244 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ ^Mch S3, 189t. 
are very liable to decay. A fair amount of light is necessary to 
develop the fine colour of many varieties. The main portion of the 
stem may be cut into pieces and placed in pans if stock is needed. 
D. Grielfoylli, when raised from root cuttings, have green lower 
leaves, which detracts from the effectiveness of the plants. To 
have this variety in its best condition well-coloured heads should 
be re-rooted. Plants of D. Goldiana that have become too tall may 
have the tops taken off and inserted in 4 or 5-inch pots. When 
taking off the heads cut to where the wood is moderately soft. When 
this is done, and the pots are plunged in brisk bottom heat, they root 
quickly without losing a single leaf. A few of the eyes below where 
the head has been removed may be inserted with a leaf attached ; these 
soon root, and form neat plants. For stock the old stems should be 
retained and allowed to break, when the side shoots can be taken off 
and rooted. D. gracilis may be treated in the same way. 
Polnsettlas.— Cut close back all old plants that it is intended to 
retain for another year. These if placed in an intermediate temperature 
will soon break into growth, when shake the old soil from the roots and 
repot the plants. Where it is necessary to increase the stock insert 
portions with two joints of well ripened wood in sandy soil in thumb 
pots and plunge them in the propagating frame. Rooting cuttings of 
ripened wood is the quickest and best method of raising a stock of these 
plants. As soon as these cuttings are well rooted they should be given 
an intermediate temperature so that sturdy growth will result. 
Euphorbia jacqulnlneflora. —Plants that have enjoyed a good rest 
may be placed into heat until they break into growth. When they have 
made growths 2 inches or a little more in length remove the plants to 
cool moderately airy quarters to harden the cuttings, when they may be 
taken off with a sharp knife and inserted in sandy soil and covered with 
bell-glasses in brisk heat. Do not place them in the propagating frame. 
If t& cuttings are inserted in a soft condition when produced in 
brisk moist heat nearly every one will fail, but when well hardened the 
majority will root. 
Justlcla flavlcoma. —Cuttings of this useful plant should now be 
plentiful, and they root freely in sandy soil in the propagating frame. 
Insert each cutting singly so that the plants can be grown afterwards 
without a check. If sufficient cuttings can be obtained at once the old 
plants may be cut back and then allowed to break into growth. When 
in this condition reduce the old balls carefully, and repot the plants, 
placing them again in the same size pots. 
Begonia hydrocotyllfolla. —Plants that have done flowering may 
have ail the old leaves removed. About 4 inches of the stem should be 
inserted as cuttings in small pots, for they root freely in sandy soil in a 
vinery or any house that is kept warm. If a large stock is needed the 
stem may be cut into lengths of 1 inch and placed in thumb pots. In 
the conservatory it is very effective with its light spikes of pink flowers 
rising above other plants. When in brisk heat the flowers are of the 
palest description, and the plant is not half so effective as when it is 
developed under cooler conditions. 
iVcalypbas. —Tops that were inserted as previously advised will be 
well rooted and should be placed into 5-inch pots. Grow these in brisk 
heat fully exposed to the sun, when their foliage will colour splendidly. 
For conservatories that are not kept too cool these Aoalyphas plants will 
certainly replace Coleus, inasmuch as they will stand in these structures 
all the summer. Side shoots root freely in handlights in heat. 
Caladiums. —Grow the earliest plants at present fully exposed to 
the sun and give a little air daily. This is necessary if the plants are 
to be employed in conservatories and other structures that are not kept 
close. When grown under moderately hardy conditions they stand well 
in rooms and in cooler houses after the middle of June. Plants that 
have been kept at rest may be started into growth without delay. 
Palms. —Light shade should be given these during bright sunshine. 
Clean any plants that need it, and syringe freely to keep spider and 
thrip well in check. Pot any plants that need more root room. The 
majority of these plants do well in good loam and coarse sand, with a 
little artificial manure applied occasionally to the surface. Young 
plants may have one-third good leaf mould incorporated with the loam, 
while the more delicate-growing kinds prefer at least half peat. Main¬ 
tain a moist atmosphere, and a temperature at night of 60°. If lightly 
shaded during bright sunshine the ventilators for the present may be 
kept close. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Weather. 
The weather has continued cold ever since January closed, and 
there has not been much opportunity to feed strong hives, and 
none for weak ones. It is a repetition of the past; bees will feed 
in January when they will die in March. The latter is a 
treacherous month for bees, and they should be kept quiet and not 
induced to leave their hives on any pretext whatever. They have 
obtained no good from any of the spring flowers, and the Croci 
have never opened their petals. The Punics, with few exceptions, 
are the only bees here that have carried pollen to any extent. I 
have iio wish to see my bees much on the wing until the tempera¬ 
ture rises to 55°, and 44° is the highest it has reached since March 
came in. I know there is no damp about my hives to injure 
them, consequently no dead bees upon the floors, as is the case 
with those having solid ones ; and as the doorways are all narrow 
there is no draught to further chill the bees, which deters breed¬ 
ing, nor lack of food which has the same effect, and often ruins 
the hives and the prospect of the bee-keeper. 
Feeding. 
Except in special cases during the autumn I have abandoned 
all top feeders. They are more troublesome than under fountains 
and scoops, and are liable to cause a draught. Bees will feed 
readily from under feeders, when they reject syrup in upper ones. 
With the use of under feeders the warm covering on the top of the 
hive is left intact, and no unnecessary cooling the temperature 
of the interior of the hive takes place or is permitted after October 
or November, up till the end of May, or perhaps later. 
I have a strong aversion to feeding during the spring months, 
but it would be extremely foolish to advise against it in cases 
where the bees may be starving. Feed all such hives at once, 
even although the weather be unfavourable. Remember, however, 
that “ brood spreading,” untimely, stimulative, and excessive feed¬ 
ing come under the same category, and is against profitable manage¬ 
ment. Bees require nothing to induce them to breed when in a 
healthy and normal state but Nature’s sunshine and flowers from 
this time and onwards till the end of December, when they depend 
upon the stores within their hives. That it is necessary bees 
should be fed at certain times, when their stores are exhausted and 
Nature fails to give a new supply, I never denied ; but I question 
the soundness of the advice that bees should be supplied with 
syrup in a manner and at times so much advocated by certain 
persons if bee-keeping is to be a success. The fact that bees never 
fed, whether in hives or in roofs of houses, give the largest yields 
of honey is sufficient evidence in favour of non-fed hives, and 
supports my argument. 
Hives. 
The beginner is very apt to be led away by the teachings of 
unpractical persons. Experience is the most reliable teacher, 
and the information flowing from it is really valuable. Long 
experience has proven to us that deep, but narrow, hives are most 
suitable for bees, and are the most profitable. The ventilating 
floor in our hives is an inestimable gain in the saving of bees during 
winter, the manipulation and the management in the apiary at 
home, also when in transit to and from the Heather. I only ask 
your readers to consider for a moment the comfortable state of a 
well managed hive so equipped with its narrow doorway, contrasted 
with one having a solid floor lowered with the vain attempt to 
dispel the accumulated damp so fatal to bee life. Damp, more¬ 
over, is aggravated by having a wide doorway, and tends to kill 
the bees. It is impossible for them to keep up the heat of 
their bodies at a zero temperature when located in ill ventilated, 
draughty, and damp hives. The bees are restless when they 
should be in a state of repose and comfort.— A. Lanarkshire 
Bee-keeper. 
•^•All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Oorrespondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
ITettlng^ Fruit Trees In Blossom (i2. J. H .').—The nets should 
hang distinctly clear, and not touch any portion of the trees. Perhaps 
no better guidance can be found than in the article on page 194 (March 
9th). It is there stated that the foot of the supports for the nets to rest 
on may be 18 inches from the base of a wall 10 feet high, and 2 feet 
from the base of a wall 12 feet in height. You will also find in the 
article (page 195) the great value of glass or wood copings in addition 
to nets. Perhaps the mean between the two extremes you indicate, but do 
not define, will be the best solution of the problem. Be this as it may, 
we know from long experience that correct methods are clearly stated 
in the article referred to. 
