250 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 30, 1893. 
grown in the future. Wa do not hesitate to say we shall have a 
great demand for canes next autumn, and we are preparing a la'-ge 
stock to meet the demand. In a very short space of time Chasselas 
Napoleon will be in collections of Grapes upon the exhibition table. 
—Wm. Cutbush & Son. 
I DARESAY I was the first to bring the Chasselas Napoleon Grape 
under notice in a cultivated sense, when I exhibited an entire rod 
bearing eight bunches at one of the series of fortnightly exhibitions 
held in connection with the International Exhibition in Paris in 
1867. I was induced to grow the Grape really for the name, and 
not for its merit, and indeed the same indifference caused me to 
cut out the entire two-year rod, as I had no intention of retaining the 
Grape as a produce variety. It was very imposing as shown in 
Paris, and it caused quite a sensation at the moment. 
I obtained the Vine originally, amongst some fifty other varie¬ 
ties, from the late M. Andre Leroy of Angers as Panse Jaune. 
This, Monukka, and some others I retained, and grew them as far 
as possible to perfection, first in pots and then planted out in a new 
vinery. The Chasselas Napoleon caused such astonishment at 
the time that I was besieged with inquiries concerning its origin 
and applications for eyes. My friend Mr. Thomson of Cloven¬ 
fords had it also from me, and others, of whom 1 have no recollec¬ 
tion. Suffice it to say that the Chasselas Napoleon is not a new 
Grape. I think I am right in saying that M. Ferdinand Jamin of 
Bourg-la-Reine gave Panse Jaune the synonym Chasselas Napoleon 
after I had previously shown it in pots at a meeting in Paris of the 
Societe Imperiale et Centraled’Horticulture,for which I was awarded 
a medal in 1866.— Henry Knight, Royal Parks and Gardens, 
Laeken, Brussels. 
[Mr. Knight’s experience is in close accord with our references 
to Panse Jaune, syn. Chasselas Napoleon, and Mr. Reynolds’ 
explanation shows what we suspected, that there had been some 
mistake or misunderstanding in reference to the so-called “new” 
variety. For this mistake we are bound to think that Mr. Reynolds 
is mainly responsible, as in a letter from him to Messrs. Cutbush 
and Son, dated March 1st, 1893, he says—“I have much pleasure 
in accepting your offer for my new Vine Chasselas Napoleon.” 
The purchasers could not very well infer from this that the 
variety was an old one. His narrative proves the necessity for our 
remarks on the subject last week, and the facts of the case are 
now before the public. Comte Odart in 1854 gives Chasselas 
Napoleon as a synonym of Panse Jaune.] 
RHODODENDRONS. 
So showy and beautiful are the numerous varieties of these 
hardy shrubs that no woodland walk or shrubbery can be con¬ 
sidered complete without them, and for filling large beds in the 
flower garden or conspicuous positions near the mansion, the best 
hybrid varieties are especially suitable. When in flower they stand 
unrivalled among hardy shrubs for the massive trusses of their 
richly marked flowers. Having so many good qualities to com¬ 
mend them it is the more to be regretted that many cultivators are 
not successful in growing Rhododendrons, and therefore entertain 
the idea that they will not thrive in their locality. This I think is 
in many cases a fallacy. I am convinced that these shrubs will 
grow fairly well in almost any garden provided a reasonable 
amount of attention is bestowed upon them. They are not so 
fastidious in regard to soil as many would have us believe. I have 
seen them succeed quite as well in a deep somewhat heavy loam as 
in the best peat procurable ; and in soils by no means rich, with due 
care good results may be obtained. 
_To be successful with Rhododendrons two things must be 
strictly avoided. These are : 1, Planting in soils containing a large 
per-centage of lim© or chalk ; or 2, in positions where water 
frequently stagnates. The latter state of affairs frequently occurs 
in stiff clay soils, which only require to be brought into the right 
mechanical condition, as well as sweetened, by exposure to the 
atmosphere, to render success certain. Where planting has to be 
done in a soil of this description, it ought to be prepared during 
the autumn months. The soil should be taken out to a depth of 
2^ feet, 9 inches of broken bricks or stones placed in for drainage, 
and pipes laid to carry away superfluous moisture. As the soil is 
returned to the bed large quantities of leaf mould or well decayed 
garden refuse ought to be mixed with it, and the surface soil 
ridged up to allow frosts and air to act beneficially upon it. Where 
this autumn preparation has been unavoidably delayed it may still 
be done, provided the soil is allowed to lie in a rough state for a 
couple of weeks before planting is performed. Some might 
object to planting Rhododendrons thus late, and I fully admit 
it would not be a wise proceeding if the plants were left to take 
their chance in regard to moisture at the roots, but in the majority 
of gardens of the present day means are provided for watering 
shrubs when necessary, and under such circumstances planting 
may be safely done at any time before the flower buds swell, or 
after the flowers have faded. I have planted Rhododendrons in 
April, July, and August, and in each instance the results were 
equally satisfactory, a few good soakings of water being given 
when necessary. 
I think far too much reliance is placed in peat for Rhodo¬ 
dendrons, seeing they may be grown equally well without it. Good 
turfy loam without any other addition answers admirably, provided 
but little lime enters into composition. A great variety of soils 
will grow the shrubs well with but little preparation. Pure sweet 
leaf soil is good for the purpose, but I find well-decayed garden 
refuse still better. The kind we use for the purpose is formed of 
the sweepings of walks, leaves from shrubberies, and short grass 
taken from the mowing machines. These materials are thrown 
into a heap as collected. At the end of each year the heap is 
turned, the ingredients well mixed and piled into a wide ridge, 
where it remains for nine or twelve months before being used. It 
is then decayed sufficiently to be ready for use, with no other 
preparation than that of picking out sticks or stones as the carts or 
barrows are loaded. We collect and prepare large quantities of 
such materials, and always find plenty of ways to dispose of it in 
the shrubberies and herbaceous borders. All kinds of shrubs seem 
to have a decided liking for it, and wherever applied healthy 
growth and active rootlets soon follow. Whenever I find Rhodo¬ 
dendrons becoming unhealthy, a little of the surface soil is removed 
till a few active roots are found, 2 or 3 inches of refuse is then 
given in the spring or early summer months, and I invariably find 
a marked improvement in the colour of the foliage and vigour of 
growth. 
Another point in connection with the growth of Rhododendrons 
which I think receives too little attention is the desirability of 
keeping the beds clear, or nearly so, of other plants. A few 
Lilmms, Gladiolus, or other bulbous flowers look well, and supply 
a feature when the shrubs are flowerless without being to any 
appreciable extent inimical to the well being of the Rhododen¬ 
drons ; but in cases where such strong and quick-rooting plants as 
Musk and Winter Cherry have been planted beneath them the sooner 
they are uprooted the better, for they carry on deadly warfare 
against the hair-like Rhododeniron roots, and in the end the latter 
must be beaten in the contest. Many Rhododendrons are seriously 
checked by the exhaustive process of seeding, and the withered 
flower trusses should be promptly removed.—H. D. 
BORDER FLOWERS. 
This spring, so far, notwithstanding much frost, has been the 
best of many years. Hardy border flowers have not been so beauti¬ 
ful for a long time. Owing to the nature of the plants grown in 
the borders the greater number of spring plants are bulbous. 
Among these the early Squills are most charming. We have 
many large clumps of Scilla prsecox, and also of Scilla bifolia. 
The prettiest of all is S. b. alba, which is quite a gem. We have 
also a rose form, which, however, is not so good. A great 
improvement on S. bifolia is found in S. taurica. S. botryoides is 
showing the blue in its spikes. The one fault of this pretty 
flower is the evil habit it assumes of spreading beyond bounds. 
Curiously enough the white form is extremely shy to propagate 
itself. This is unfortunate, as few flowers can rival it in beauty. 
For some time Crocuses have been eminently beautiful. No 
doubt the extremely free-flowering yellow Crocus is the brightest 
of all, but in such fine weather as we are experiencing all the 
varieties are beautiful, whites, purples as large as Tulips, and many 
shades ranging intermediate between these. It is surprising that 
these are so sparely grown in large gardens. Another particularly 
lovely flower is the Spring Snowflake, Leucojum vernum ; a mass 
or a bed of this takes a good deal of beating. It is so good that 
not a small clump but a large quantity ought to find an appropriate 
place in every garden. 
Of non-bulbous plants I like none better than the Polyanthus 
as improved to date. I have every year a border devoted to their 
special use. The plants are raised from seeds sown out of doors 
about the middle of March. During summer they are transplanted 
into the place where it is intended they should flower. About the 
end of March a slight dressing of manure is sprinkled among the 
plants and hoed in. The plants may be left a second year, when 
flowering will begin earlier. As a rule they are finest during 
April, but from March to May there is much beauty to be found 
both individually and in the mass. 
Iris reticulata troubled me long through its much-dwindling 
habit. Sometimes indeed it died out altogether. For several 
years it has done well, an ,l the only reason I have to account for 
