March 30, 1893. ] j 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURF'^ANn 'COTTAOn'^.GARDmER. 
263 ^ 
together badly, cracking following in due course. A too free use of salt 
is also responsible for many gaps in beds. Where the soil is light in 
character just loosen the surface, and then whiten it with coarse salt. 
Salt and Peruvian guano in equal quantities, applied at the rate of 8 lbs. 
to the square rod, suits medium soils admirably, so also does a light 
surfacing of nitrate of soda occasionally. Fish manure has been found 
very suitable for the beds generally, and this, soot, and guano are among 
the best dressings that can be applied to heavy soils. 
Seakale. —This will soon be available from the open ground, the 
crowns in this case being heavily moulded over, or covered with pots, 
ashes, leaves, or other substitutes. In the former case the covering is 
frequently too slight, the Seakale growths pushing through, and the 
tops spoilt by exposure to the light before being observed. Therefore 
cover the rows with a ridge of soil of some kind, 15 inches high and as 
much through at the base. Any not partially covered ere this will have 
so much purple in the points as to be past blanching, but if allowed to 
grow naturally, and cut over before the flow'er heads are far advanced, 
a very succulent, mildly flavoured vegetable will be had. During the 
first fortnight in April is a good time to either sow seed or form a fresh 
plantation with root cuttings, the latter plan being the simplest and 
best. Therefore save all the thongs or strong side shoots attached to the 
old roots lifted for forcing, and if need be trace out and remove some 
from those still in the ground. All thongs should be near the size of a 
man’s little finger, and about 4 inches long. Take a slanting snip off 
the thinnest end or that part to be buried the deepest, and bed them in 
rather thickly in boxes of light soil or sand. If placed in gentle heat 
for a few days the tops will callus and form buds, and root-action also 
commence, when if they are early planted out there will be fewer failures 
than when the cuttings are dibbled out direct where they are to grow. 
If it is desirable to largely increase a small stock of Lily White it will 
be found that quite stout roots will develop into plants if given the 
benefit of gentle heat, and these may be further split up. 
Seeds to be Sown. — If the earliest sown Peas from any cause 
come up badly sow more seed at once in 3-inch pots, place in heat, and 
keep constantly moist, and serviceable plants will soon be ready 
for filling up the blanks. According as the earliest and second early 
Peas come through the ground make other sowings of successional 
varieties, it now being time such excellent varieties as Telephone, Duke 
of Albany, Criterion, Huntingdon, and such like were sown. With 
these might also be sown one or more of thv later or main crop varieties, 
a good natural succession resulting. Sow Spinach at the same time. 
More Broad Beans, including the Windsor type, ought to be sown ; but 
it is yet too early to sow Kidney Beans in the open, though a few dozen 
or scores of plants might well be made ready to succeed early Potatoes, 
according as these are cleared out of pits. Onions should be sown 
directly the ground is in a free working state, and so also ought Parsnips. 
Seed of Early Horn Carrots should be sown on a warm border, and with 
these Eadishes may also be grown, the drills for Carrots being drawn 
9 inches apart, and between these for the Radishes. Sow Leeks at once. 
If no Brussels Sprouts, Autirmn Giant Cauliflower, and Veitch’s Autumn 
Protecting Broccoli have been raised under glass, sow seed at once on a 
warm border, and net over if small birds are troublesome. Sow early 
and main crop Lettuces in drills 9 inches apart, and the ground being 
fairly rich some of the plants resulting may be allowed to heart in 
where they are raised. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Pelargoniums. —Give the earliest plants that are showing flower a 
little artificial manure on the surface of the soil at intervals of two or 
three weeks until they have practically done flowering. Be careful not 
to allow the plants to become dry, and watch closely for aphides, and 
destroy t'nem by fumigating with tobacco smoke directly they make 
their appearance. Large plants that are growing freely should have 
their shoots tied out, so that they will not crowd one another. Any of 
these plants that need more root room should be potted at once. Those 
required for the latest flowering, or any plants that are weak, may have 
the points of their shoots removed to induce them to break again into 
strong vigorous growth, which they will do if given abundance of air. 
Zonal Varieties. —There should now be a plentiful supply of 
these plants in bloom, and in light airy positions they will continue to 
flower for a long time, providing stimulants in a weak state are given 
occasionally, or artificial manure is applied to the surface at intervals of 
three weeks. Plants in 3-inch pots, and that are needed for succession, 
should be placed into 5-inch pots. Give plenty of air to encourage a 
firm, sturdy growth. For autumn and winter flowering the necessary 
batches of cuttings should now be inserted. Place the cuttings singly 
in thumb pots, and in a short time they will root if placed in a structure 
where the temperature ranges about 60°. Cut back plants that have 
done flowering or from which cuttings have been taken, keep them on 
the dry side until they break into growth. Those cut back some time 
ago may have the old soil shaken from their roots, and the plants 
repotted in the same size pots. Keep these close until they are rooting 
freely, when more air should be given them. 
Fuchsias.— Do not stop again the shoots of the earliest plants, but 
allow them to grow and come into flower. The later plants that were 
cut back are growing freely. The shoots may be again stopped, and the 
plants placed into larger pots if they need it. Plants that are just 
rooted may be placed into 3-inch pots. Another batch of cuttings 
should be inserted if sufficient stock has not been raised. 
Xilllum Harrlsl. —The earliest plants may be pushed forward in 
gentle warmth if the flower buds are fairly well developed and the plants 
are wanted in bloom. Do not hurry later plants that are not yet show¬ 
ing their flowers ; if hurried in this stage the flower buds instead of 
coming forward are very liable to turn yellow. These plants are very 
subject to aphides, and should be destrojel directly they make their 
appearance. 
Hydrang-eas.— All the later plants that were rooted with buds in 
small pots should be placed into 5-inch without delay. Place the small 
plants down to their lowest leaves so that they are furnished to the base 
when their truss of bloom is developed. Do not hurry plants of 
H. paniculata, allow them to grow on steadily in the greenhouse. 
Splreeas.— Lift and pot a number of these plants and bring them 
forward as may be required. It is a good plan to pot these plants 
for late flowering and then plunge them behind a north wall to retard 
them as much as possible. Allow S. astilboides to come into bloom 
under cool airy conditions. These plants will be valuable for the con¬ 
servatory after the latest batches of S. japonica are over. 
Callas. —Young plants in 3-inch pots may be placed into 5-inch, in 
which they will be thoroughly established before the time arrives for 
planting them out. These will make grand plants for early flowering. 
Some of the old and latest flowering plants can then be thrown away 
unless retained for the same purpose again. It is surprising over what 
a lengthened period of the year the blooms of this plant can be had by 
growing the plants in batches and subjecting them to different treat¬ 
ment. 
Azaleas. —As these plants go out of bloom place them where they 
can enjoy warmth and moisture to start them into growth. Be careful 
that they do not become dry at their roots. Those intended for late 
flowering should be retarded in a structure with a north aspect. If 
plants cannot be given this accommodation ventilate the house in 
which they are growing abundantly, and apply a light shade during the 
hottest part of the day. Watch for thrips, and destroy them at once 
should any make their appearance. A weak solution of tobacco water, 
with 1 oz. of softsoap to the gallon, intermixed, and a piece of washing 
soda the size of a Cob nut. All plants that have flowered, and have 
fairly started into growth, may be potted if they need more root room. 
These plants do well in peat and coarse sand, or in leaf mould and fibry 
loam in equal proportions, with sand added. In either case the pots 
should be well drained, and the soil pressed firmly ronnd the sides of the 
old ball. Water carefully for some time after potting, but syringe freely 
amongst the pots. 
i 
P 
AB BEE-KEEPER. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
On the morning of March 20th the thermometer stood at 22°, 
and by 3 o’clock p.m. had only reached 40°. On the following four 
mornings it registered 26°, rising gradually to 62° throughout the 
day, all these days being calm and cloudless, a happy change to 
what we have been long accustomed to, the bees enjoying and 
taking advantage of it in vigorous style. The late Croci and 
numerous other garden flowers, together with the profuse bloom of 
the Tussilago and Willows, supplied large quantities of pollen and 
honey. It is many years since we experienced similar weather for 
so many days during the spring. 
Bees with plenty of stores proceed with their internal economy 
unmindful of stern blasts and low temperatures, and I have no 
casualties to report amongst my stock. Even nuclei that contained 
very few bees in the autumn are healthy and working vigorously. 
Strong stocks are able to store surplus honey should we be favoured 
with several weeks’ sunshine. 
Early swarming will follow such conditions, and many stocks 
indicate they are well advanced. Although novelty has great 
attractions for some, it is not inappropriate to mention here that 
swarming is the most natural as well as the most profitable system 
of keeping bees ; but it must be borne in mind that there are two 
forms of swarming—early and late. The former takes place only 
when previous arrangement and management have been well 
ordered, and it was indeed ludicrous to read from an author last 
year that it was early enough when past midsummer to commence 
feeding our bees so as to be profitable ; and yet this author claims 
to have been the means of diffusing knowledge in practical bee¬ 
keeping amongst the million. It is an old adage, but a homely 
one, to “make hay while the sun shines.” It is only through sun¬ 
shine that bees can gather honey, so do all in your power to have 
them in number when it is likely to shine. Feed when bees 
require it, but withhold food when it is not needed. 
Bees advance and decline more with the times of the year than 
from the earliness or lateness of the seasons or localities. Doubt¬ 
less in sheltered places with a profuseness of flowers they come to 
the swarming point earlier than those in exposed situations, but 
the difference is due to the latter eating out their eggs and larvte. 
