264 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ March 30, 1893. 
The case need not be discussed. Strict attention to good manage¬ 
ment of bees in the autumn very often makes up for all the 
difference in early or late swarms from hives in exposed or sheltered 
situations. Where very little honey is to be had until the end of 
July and beginning of August the swarming system is the most 
profitable as opposed to bees that are kept in early districts. 
Adopt the best means to induce the stocks to swarm early, 
not later than the end of June, two swarms from each stock. 
By careful management the whole of these, stock and swarms, 
will be in excellent condition to gather honey by the beginning 
of August, equal to early non-swarmers, and the prime swarm by 
the middle of July. The nuclei system should be started by the 
end of May, and then by the introduction of a youthful laying 
queen the best results follow. In early districts, but where the 
flora is of short duration, the doubling of swarms, or working on 
the non-swarming system, or the working of two or more into 
one, is the safest and surest course to pursue for a large yield, 
and the nuclei system is the best to prevent swarms when honey 
is wanted. If bee-keepers situated in early districts intend 
removing their bees to the Heather, the system of increase as 
advised above meets all the requirements of making the most at 
their disposal. 
The extraordinary fine weather we are enjoying reminds us 
of the spring of 1840-41, and the fine summers that followed 
encourage us to prepare for the best, but we must always keep in 
view the fact—no bees, no honey.—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Knight, Clark & Co., Westham Nursery, Langney, Eastbourne .—New 
and Choice Plants. 
John Smith, Royal Label Factory, Stratford-on-Avon .—The Im¬ 
perishable Stratford Labels, 
•**A11 correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Sulpbate of Iron Added to Sewagre (J. F. C .').—Not only the 
Paris market gardeners, but the people of France use instead of waste 
their house slops, and produce the finest Pears in the world by its judi¬ 
cious application to the trees. Sulphate of iron prevents the loss of 
ammonia, and reduces the offensiveness of sewage to a minimum. About 
1 lb. of the sulphate may be used to 10 gallons of sewage, and before use 
it should be diluted with not less than six times as much water as the dis¬ 
infected sewage—say, 10 gallons to 70 gallons, at which it can be used 
for almost all kinds of vegetables and fruit trees ; but it is frequently 
diluted to 100 gallons. 
Bed Spider on Gooseberry Bushes {lyne'). —We do not per¬ 
ceive that a solution of softsoap would take up more time than mixing 
Paris green in water and keeping it mixed. We do not advise the use 
of Paris green for this purpose. A solution of softsoap with a handful 
of sulphur stirred into three or four gallons is both safer and more 
effectual. One grower of Gooseberries finds clear lime water the 
cheapest preparation for destroying red spider. Lime should be used in 
fresh lumps. Pour water on them, stir well, then allow the water to get 
clear. If a film of lime settle at the bottom of the tub the lime water 
will be as strong as it can be made ; if there is no sediment the lime 
water may not be strong enough. 
Chestnut Tree Partly Bylng {J. II. J .').—In the absence of 
other data than those you give we are unable to account for the tree 
dying on one side while the other is sound. If it arose from what you 
name the whole tree would be affected instead of half. The injury may 
have been caused by the burrowing of some larvae in that part, so as to 
prevent the flowing of the sap, or be infected with some fungus which 
has gained access by a wound. We having seen some Elms lately that 
bad several limbs destroyed by a Polyporus that has been admitted by 
broken branches several feet above where the fruits of 'the fungus 
appeared, its mycelium having caused the death of the affected branches, 
the other parts being quite healthy. Possibly the side of the tree that 
is dying may have been struck by lightning, which would be easily 
determined by an experienced observer of Nature. 
Peat Moss Manure from a Poultry House (E, G .").—1, The 
moss itself contains 1 per cent, more nitrogen than straw, and that 
from a fowl house only changed every three months will be more 
valuable than stable manure freed of the strawy portions. 2, It is best 
applied as a top-dressing, lightly pointed in, before cropping, if left on 
the surface greater part of its fertilising properties may be lost; a good 
spadeful is sufficient for a square yard, or a good handful to a yard of 
Potato row or Pea drill. 3, It is excellent for Roses and all flowering 
plants, applying a large handful in a circle 1 foot from the stem all 
round, and pointing it in very lightly with a fork. About a quart may 
be added to each half-bushel of soil used for potting soft-wooded plants, 
crumbling it to powder and mixing thoroughly. 
Peacb Trees rather Gross (^Inquire?’'). —As your soil is sandy 
it would be desirable to mix one-fourth of clay marl with it, dried and 
pounded. This could only be done by lifting the trees, which you 
practise yearly, and firm the soil well—excellent practice, but not 
sufficient to check the tendency to luxuriance. The addition of marl 
or clay would give more substance to the wood and render less liquid 
feeding needful, as the soil would have more retentive power, as well as 
containing more mineral substances, to enhance the solidity and quality 
of the fruit. The manure—three parts bone meal, one part sulphate of 
potash, and one part sulphate of lime, is good for Peach trees, but it 
will not alter the character of your soil, which is too light and siliceous, 
and requires more body, with potash and lime. Those you will get in 
the clay marl, the best for stone fruits. 
Perpetual Carnation Cuttings Falling (AT. L.). — The best 
cuttings are about 3 inches long, detached with a heel, cut transversely 
or pared smooth, the lower pair of leaves being removed. The compost 
should consist of turfy loam, leaf soil, and sand in equal parts (mixed), 
and just moist, not wet. Insert each cutting in a thumb pot, using a 
little sand ; press firmly, and plunge the pots two-thirds their depth in 
cocoa-fibre refuse in a frame kept close, and with a bottom heat of about 
65° to 70°. In four days if bright, or a week if dull, the cuttings may be 
watered, giving enough to moisten the whole of the soil, leaving the 
lights off until the tops of the cuttings become quite dry, then replace 
the lights. Continue this procedure until the cuttings are rooted, then 
gradually inure them to the air of the house, and harden and shift into 
larger pots. The frequent dewing or sprinklings were the cause of tte 
cuttings failing, as such practice is fatal to them. 
Potato Sets Bequlred to Plant an Acre of Ground—Supply 
for a Family QS. L. A.'). —About 10 cwt. of average sets are required 
to plant an acre at ordinary distances—say, 27 inches from row to row 
and 15 inches in the rows, or 30 inches between the rows and 18 inches 
apart from set to set for strong growers; the quantities being about the 
same, as the sets of the latter are a little larger than those of medium 
growers. It is a mistake to plant small trashy tubers. The quantity of 
land for the supply of a family depends upon the culture, season, and 
produce, also the quantity of Potatoes consumed ; hence your question is 
difficult to answer. We have known a family of twelve well supplied 
with the produce of half an acre, and another far from satisfied with 
the produce of an acre of ground. There is also a difference in families, 
some are for the most part juveniles, others mainly adults, and there is 
a great difference in the views of economy in the cooking, to say 
nothing of waste in different sorts of Potatoes, so that nothing more 
than an approximate estimate can be given—namely, one acre. 
Carrots Grubby (A. S. R.'). —The best plan would be to sow the 
ground intended for Carrots with Mustard now and allow it to grow 
to the flowering stage and then dig it in. If this were done so as to 
allow of Early Carrot seed being sown early in July you would have good 
Carrots for winter of a useful size, or the seed might be sown after early 
Potatoes, and the Carrots would escape the fly that is the cause probably 
of those being riddled with worms. The Mustard has been found 
efficient against wireworm, a frequent alleged affectation, but very 
seldom occurring in old gardens. Change of site, trenching, and stirring 
the ground in winter are good preparatory processes for Carrots. No 
i kind of manure produces “ a worm that destroys Carrots, Onions, Ac.,” 
I but the frequent and excessive use of organic manures favour growth 
! in the plants, which the parents of the “ worms ” like for their 
progeny. There can be no harm in using the remedy for wireworm— 
kainit. It may be applied now as a top-dressing, 1^ lb. being a 
sufficient dressing for the size of bed named. It may be had of any 
manure dealer. 
Bees and Fruit Blossom {St. Julie)i). —Many growers of fruit 
keep bees in their orchards and gardens, both for their usefulness in 
the transference of pollen and for gathering and storing honey. You 
appear to be one of several who have been deterred from keeping bees 
because of their treatment as described by so-called advanced apiarians 
“appearing so intricate.” Plain sound teaching is given in this Journal, 
and intricate methods of a deterrent character eschewed. You ask 
what a “Hallamshire Bee-keeper” has to say on the subject. He says, 
“ Keep Punic bees in straw hives 30 inches deep by 12 inches in 
diameter, let them alone, and they will manage themselves.” Bees in 
glass structures very often perish in trying to get out. Sweeping the 
extended blossoms lightly when dry with a plume of Pampas Grass, a 
