April G, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDE NEIL 
281 
they were sports. I was perfectly aware before writing my article that 
sports are variations from the leaf bud rather than the seed, and, 
therefore, entirely distinct from seedlings. My knowledge of the 
subject was sufficiently extensive to make me perfectly familiar with 
this fact. If one special variety is a sport from another, it is, as I can 
prove, quite customary for rosarians to speak in that instance of the 
“ parent Rose,” as Mr. William Paul does of The Bride, when describing 
it as “ a pure white sport”—not a seedling be it noticed. Of Catherine 
Mermet am I not at least equally entitled to say that “ the origin of 
the Duke and Duchess of Fife may be attributed to Etienne Levet and 
the Countess of Rosebery,” or that “ Marguerite Dickson is a beautiful 
daughter of Merveille de Lyon ? ” Again, your correspondent affirms 
I make a mistake in characterising Mrs. Paul—an impressive sport from 
Isaac Pereire—as a Hybrid Bourbon Rose. But Isaac himself is some¬ 
times described as a Hybrid Perpetual; occasionally, by way of variety, I 
presume, as a Hybrid Bourbon. How, then, can Mrs. Paul have become, 
unless by some miracle, an exceptionally “ pure ” specimen of the 
Bourbon class ? 
Speaking of Hybrid Bourbon Roses in his “ Rose Amateurs’ Guide,” 
Mr. Thomas Rivers says, “ This magnificent race of Roses owes its 
origin to the Bourbon Rose, itself a hybrid ; thus showing the illimitable 
powers of Nature when assisted by Art.” I am gratified to find that 
your cultured contributor, while paying adequate attention to modern 
French Roses, does not under-estimate the value of such British pro¬ 
ductions as Marguerite Dickson, Jeannie Dickson, the Duke and Duchess 
of Fife, Prince'Arthur, Corinna, Sappho, Her Majesty, Spenser, and Mrs. 
John Laing.» David R. Williamson. 
CULTURE OF CINERARIAS. 
When Cinerarias are required to flower during the autumn and 
winter the seeds should be sown about the end of March or the first week 
in April ; but for spring use a sowing may be made in June or July. 
For seed-sowing I prefer pans to pots, as the young plants are liable to 
become overcrowded when grown in pots. The pans should be perfectly 
clean and carefully drained, placing some rough material over the 
drainage. They should then be filled with some fresh sifted loam and 
leaf soil in equal proportions, with a little sharp sand added, pressing it 
tolerably firm and leaving the surface smooth. Before sowing the seed 
some growers recommend applying boiling water through a fine-rosed 
can, which I believe is a very good plan to adopt. When the soil is cold 
the seed should be sown thinly and evenly and slightly covered, then 
gently sprinkled with tepid water. The pans should be covered with 
panes of glass and placed in a shady position in an intermediate house, 
where the seed will quickly germinate. 
When the seedlings appear remove to the greenhouse, and when large 
enough to handle prick into pans and place in a cold frame on a 
bed of coal ashes and kept rather close for a few days to encourage root- 
action. When the foliage begins to touch again prick off the plants, but 
in the place of pans use boxes. I find they thrive much better when so 
treated than when put singly in small pots. As the plants progress they 
should be potted, using 5-inch pots for the first potting, and when the 
roots reach the sides of the pots transfer the plants to 6-inch or 8-inch 
pots. The soil for the final potting should be of a much richer nature 
than that previously advised. A compost of fibry loam three parts, leaf 
soil one part, burnt earth one part, and one part well dried cow manure, 
with a good sprinkling of sharp sand will form a suitable mixture for 
them. The soil should not be pressed too firm in the pots, for although 
most plants like firm potting, the Cineraria thrives best when the soil is 
light and friable. When the pots are full of roots liquid manure may be 
applied once or twice a week with advantage. 
My method of cultivation differs somewhat from that usually prac¬ 
tised respecting the positions in which the plants should be grown. 
Most growers recommend growing them facing north, whereas I find 
they succeed equally as well when grown with a southern aspect, pro¬ 
viding a slight shading is provided them during bright sunshine. The 
shading should not, however, be permanent or sufficiently thick to 
exclude light. As the sun gets off them it is very beneficial to the 
plants if the lights are taken off, and a slight dewing with the syringe 
be afforded them, this being of great benefit as regards keeping the 
foliage clean and healthy, also resisting in a great measure the ravages 
of insects and other pests. It is also a good plan to leave the lights off 
all night during the summer if the weather is at all favourable, thereby 
letting the plants have the benefit of the dew, this being very beneficial 
to them. 
Cinerarias are subject in all stages of growth to various insect pests, 
green fly being particularly troublesome, and if allowed to become 
established is very difficult to eradicate. A close watch should, there¬ 
fore, be kept, and at the first appearance of fly the houses or frames in 
which the plants are growing should be fumigated. Care must be taken 
not to give a too strong application at one time, it being much better 
to fumigate in the evening and again the following morning; the foliage 
often presents a scorched appearance if too severely fumigated. 
Although these plants are subject to green fly, I think these attacks 
may be averted if careful and timely attention be paid to all matters 
pertaining to their culture. I think the appearance of fly is due to the 
plants receiving a check, either by not having a sufficient supply of 
water or allowing them to become root-bound. Soft rain water should 
be used where obtainable. 
Soot water is an excellent stimulant for Cinerarias. The soot should 
be placed in a bag and immersed in a tub of water, allowing it to soak 
for twenty-four hours before using. I may mention that I have adopted the 
foregoing treatment and have now excellent plants, some of them being 
2 feet 6 inches through, with large and bold foliage. The plants are 
also carrying good heads of bloom, some of them being 18 inches 
through, the individual flowers averaging from 2 to 3 inches across, and 
six-eighths of an inch wide in the petals. I have only had occasion to 
fumigate them once all through the season.—G. Pareant, Ashby Lodge 
Gardens, near Rvgby. 
SCHIZOCODON SOLDANELLOIDES. 
Few exhibits attracted more attention at the meeting of the R.H.S, 
on March 28th than the beautiful little Schizocodon soldanelloides, 
shown by Captain Torrsns, and for which a first-class certificate was 
awarded. It was brought by the exhibitor from Miganoshta, Japan, in 
1891, named at Kew, and stated by the authorities there to have been 
the first living plant brought to England. It was first shown at the 
Crystal Palace in the spring of last year, and referred to in the Journal 
PIG. 55.- SCHIZOCODON SOLDANELLOIDES. 
at that period as bearing a resemblance in foliage and flowers to Shortia 
galacifolia. It is a dwarf plant, attaining to a height of 2 to 3 inches 
only, and bearing its charming rosy flowers very freely. A marked 
feature of the latter is the deep laciniation of the segments which makes 
the flower look as if fringed. It is a most beautiful little plant, and it 
is to be hoped that it will seed readily, so that a stock may be pro¬ 
curable. We should be interested to hear whether such is the case or 
not. The plant has proved quite hardy during the past winter, and it 
may, therefore, be classed as a valuable addition to the list of choice 
outdoor plants. Figure 55 represents it. 
SUMMER PRUNING VINES—AN OBJECT LESSON. 
Here we have a subject which will open a wide field for discussion, 
1 am sure readers of the Journal of Horticulture will thank Mr. J. C. 
Clarke (page 223) for his remarks on the matter. Coming as it does at 
the very commencement of our general Vine-growing season, it may not 
be out of place to describe my views respecting this question. Un¬ 
doubtedly, practice combined with thought leads to success, and while, 
to read the laudatory lines of Mr. Clarke, the general reader might be 
inclined to think that having once adopted a certain line with success I 
was content, such is not the case, for I am daily learning. 
Coming, however, directly to the main question, I do not like the word 
“ pruning ” here, as this may lead to the apparent neglect of my duties ; 
pinching or stopping should be the correct term, it being done in very early 
stages with the finger and thumb or the scissors. It amounts to pruning 
I admit, but real pruning in the ordinary sense of the word would be an 
error on the practitioner’s part. A Hamburgh Vine affords a good 
object lesson. Take the ordinary rod of from 10 to 12 feet long. What 
