284 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 6, 1893. 
its fmgrance, is highly appreciated, and well deserves culture under 
glass. The plants need the same treatment that has been advised above. 
Souvenir de la Malmaison Carnations. 
The healthiest specimens and best blooms are produced when the 
plants are grown perfectly cool throughout. Plants that have flowered 
with one spike in 6-inch pots under cool treatment make from three to 
six strong growths, and flower the second season. The plants after 
flowering should be stood outside on beds of ashes, and carefully 
watered. At this season these plants may be placed into 8 or 9-inch 
pots, according to their size and the number of roots they possess. 
After potting these plants will do much better plunged in frames 
than in an ordinary greenhouse. The growths should be carefully 
staked to prevent them breaking. When well grown Lady Middleton 
produces a very large flower, and is even more highly appreciated than 
the ordinary form, although it is indispensable where these Carnations 
are appreciated. The scarlet form (Madame Arthur Warocqu4) flowers 
freely, and is a great acquisition, but is of rather weak growth compared 
with the other varieties of Malmaison, and appears to be very shy of 
producing grass for stock. 
These plants do well in two parts good fibry loam, the other part 
being composed of leaf mould and coarse sand ; to this one-seventh of 
decayed manure should be added, but this should be passed through a 
fine sieve.—0. M. 
HAEDT FRUIT GARDEN. 
Grafting Apples and Pears.— Grafting may still be proceeded 
with, especially with late varieties and in cold backward districts. In 
some parts of the country it can be performed successfully as late as 
April 25th, but as a rule the early part of the month must be considered 
the best period in midland districts, March answering better for southern 
localities. Much, however, depends on the season, which in a great 
measure accelerates or retards the activity of the sap. Free sap move¬ 
ment in the stocks to be worked is the first essential to success, that in 
the scions being comparatively quiescent at the time of insertion. The 
latter being procured and stored in a moist cool spot some time 
previously will be in the right condition. 
Preparing Stocks and Scions. —Stocks of considerable diameter 
which it is intended to work, having been prepared by heading down 
some time ago, will only now need the removal of a thin layer of the 
upper surface in order to present clean fresh wood and bark to the 
operator. The scions should be healthy portions of the previous year’s 
wood about 6 inches long, containing at least four bold wood buds. 
The central parts of shoots are regarded as the most suitable. The 
immature tips can thus be discarded as well as the basal portions of 
shoots, which do not generally contain wood buds of the right character. 
In preparing the scions for insertion, after cutting them to the proper 
length, cut the lower half in a sloping direction, beginning in front of 
the lowest bud and, making a clean cut downwards, taper off to a wedge- 
shaped point. Form a notch or small shoulder at the top of the slanting 
cut, so that when inserted in the stock each scion will rest firmly in 
position. 
Form of Grafting. —There are various modes of grafting employed. 
The method for young stocks, where stock and scion are of equal thick¬ 
ness, is that known as whip grafting. The details in the preceding 
paragraph refer to crown or rind grafting, which is the method usually 
employed when grafts are inserted on old trees, as several scions can be 
introduced on one branch or stock. 
Inserting the Scions. —For crown grafting, as each scion is prepared 
lose no time in slitting the bark of the stock to the required length and 
lift the bark, which will easily separate from the alburnum, with a piece 
of wedge-shaped ivory, or other smooth, hard substance. As this is 
done slide in the scion until the notch or shoulder rests upon the face 
of the stock. Take care that the inner barks unite perfectly, without 
which a union cannot take place. 
Securing the Grafts. —Promptly tie with matting, and cover with 
grafting wax. A mixture of two parts clay to one of cow or horse 
manure answers well, but wax is the best. Clay and manure mixtures 
are liable to crack and fall away, to avoid which moss is sometimes tied 
over and kept moist. 
Pruning Outdoor Figs.— Trees against walls which have received 
protection, and have had ic gradually removed, may now be pruned. 
Shorten back to one eye the shoots which bore fruit last year, and which 
were partially shortened in the autumn. Reserve last season’s shoots 
full length, for towards the extremities of these the crop of fruit for 
the forthcoming season will be found. Remove crowded wood entirely. 
In some positions pruning may be practically dispensed with, as when 
the trees make little else but short-jointed fruitful wood they are better 
left alone. 
Treatment of Newly Planted Fruit Trees. —See that all 
recently planted fruit trees are securely staked to prevent swaying. 
In dry weather on light soils watering may be necessary. After one 
good application of it apply a mulching of short manure over the roots. 
In cold wet weather and on heavy soil the trees will be better without 
any mulching until hotter weather sets in, the object being to allow the 
sun and air to warm and aerate the surface, which during this period 
should be kept open and loose with the hoe. 
Applying Sewage.— Where valuable liquid drainings of all kinds 
are carefully preserved for use in the garden the present is a fitting 
time to empty the tanks or receptacles containing such. Large old 
fruit trees and bushes—Currants, Gooseberries, and Raspberries—are 
improved by its use if discretion is exercised in applying it. It is not 
well to use it too strong. Better give a second application than one 
strong dose only. Dilute with 4 to 6 gallons of water. Urine diluted 
with six times its quantity of water or soapsuds is a useful stimulant. 
The drainings from manure heaps and stables ought to be utilised. 
Strawberry plants revel in good support applied to the roots just when 
new fibres are becoming active and claiming nutriment. 
Applying Artificial Manures. —The present is a good time also 
to apply artificial or chemical manures to trees and bushes that need 
assistance. For Strawberries on light soils a nitrogenous manure is help¬ 
ful. One of the best is nitrate of soda applied in a finely divided state, 
mixing it with fine dry soil lor equal distribution at the rate of 1 oz. to 
the square yard. This manure alone or mixed with double the quantity 
of superphosphate of lime will give increased vigour to Strawberries. It 
should not be allowed to touch the young foliage, but be carefully 
spread among the plants. Superphosphate may he applied to fruit treea 
at the rate of 4 ozs. to the square yard, spreading it on the soil around 
the stems as far outwards as the roots extend, which will be equal to 
the extent of the branches. Sulphate of ammonia has a similar though 
not such a rapid effect as nitrate of soda. Use it at the same rate— 
namely, 1 oz. to the square yard, but it is better mixed with double its 
own bulk of mineral phosphate and half the quantity of potash, this 
forming a suitable mixture which may be given to Strawberries growing 
in heavy cold soils or fruit trees generally in similar soil. The advertised 
artificial manures also produce excellent results when used in accordance 
with the directions. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Earliest House. —When the stoning 
is completed and fruit desired ripe as soon as possible, the temperature 
may be maintained ac 70° to 75° by artificial means, falling 5° through 
the night, keeping through the day from sun heat at 80° to 85°, with top 
ventilation at 75° and front at 80°, so as to insure a circulation of air. 
Close the house at 80°, and sufficiently early to allow of an advance to 
85° or 90°, the trees being well syringed and a good atmospheric moisture 
secured, which will insure the fruit swelling to a large size. The foliage 
and fruit must, however, become fairly dry before night, and clear 
rain water be used, as spring water sometimes contains mineral matter, 
leaving a deposit on the fruit, which is a great blemish. Remove the 
leaves over or in front of the fruit, and turn it up to the light by thin 
laths placed across the trellis, as it greatly adds to the appearance of 
the fruit when it is well and evenly coloured from the apex, and secures 
the highest flavour. Cease syringing the trees when the fruit commences 
ripening, but maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere for the 
benefit of the foliage by damping available surfaces twice a day. Only 
the earliest varieties, as Alexander, Waterloo, and Early Louise Peaches, 
with Advance Nectarine, will be in the condition described, and they 
are best grown in a house or compartment by themselves. 
Midseason Peaches and Nectarines, as Royal George and Stirling 
Castle Peaches, with Lord Napier Nectarine, must not be subjected to 
higher temperature than 60° to 65° at night, 70° to 75° by day with 
gleams of sun, and 5° to 10° more on bright days until the stoning is 
completed. Tuese trees must be well syringed and every part kept 
perfectly free from red spider by washing them twice a day with clear 
soft water through a syringe. Supply weak tepid liquid manure to the 
roots if needed, otherwise keep well watered, aided by light mulching, 
for deficiency of moisture at the roots cruses the fruit to ripen pre¬ 
maturely and have little or no flavour. Stop or remove all gross shoots 
before they have drawn the supplies of sap from the weakest parts of 
the trees. Leading shoots may be allowed to extend over uncovered 
parts of the trellis, pinching the laterals to one leaf as produced, and 
taking out the points of shoots intended for next year’s bearing at 
12 to 15 inches if likely to interfere with other growths or much exceed 
that length. Turn any leaves aside that shade the fruit or otherwise 
interfere with the colouring process. 
Houses Started at the Neio Year. —Where disbudding and heeling-in 
the shoots have been attended to the trees will not be encumbered with 
more growths than are necessary for the perfection of the current crop 
and providing for the succeeding, every growth being allowed full 
exposure to light, as it is a mistake to permit more growths to remain 
than are necessary for next year’s crop or for the extension of the trees. 
Allow plenty of room in the ties, not tying closely down for some time 
longer. Stop or remove gross growths, equalising the vigour through 
the branches of each tree by distributing the shoots regularly. 
Shoots pinched at three or four joints of growth to serve the double 
purpose of attracting the sap to the fruit and prevent its being drawn 
away should only be allowed moderate extension, stopping each sub- 
lateral to one leaf. Enough shoots should be permitted as will shade 
and protect the strong wood from the direct rays of the sun as the 
season advances. Ventilate freely but carefully, avoiding cold currents 
of air and sudden depressions of temperature. Thin the fruits if still 
too thick, or those left on the trees will not only attain a larger size, but 
with the trees in good health it is more likely to stone well than when 
they are over-burdened. Inside borders must be watered as required ; 
