April 6, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
287 
fresh and good appearance is maintained. The soil should be dug and 
enriched if needed before planting, and the better it is the more quickly 
the Ivy will grow. In choosing plants take care they have good roots, 
long trailing Ivy plants with few roots seldom growing well, and many 
die. The growths may be pegged down to form a border of any required 
width, and can easily be kept within bounds with the shears. Hollies 
grow well under trees, especially the broad-leaved Hodgin’s or Shep¬ 
herd’s, Ilex Hodginsi and I. Shepherd!, when the soil is suitable. So 
do Rhododendrons and Aucuba japonica, though they do not succeed in 
all districts. The Evergreen Privet, Ligustrum japonicum, grows well 
under trees in any ordinary fertile soil. Plant any of those mentioned 
that grow well in open positions in your garden. The present is a good 
time for planting them, also Ivy. 
Violets In Frames {Young Gardener ').—The method which you 
have been instructed to adopt of “ planting single runners of Violets 
in cold pits in October ” is not the best for affording a good supply 
of blooms in winter. We have seen stout runners with good crowns 
inserted an inch or two apart in boxes of light soil kept moist in a 
warm light house afford blooms plentifully in a few weeks, but no 
such results could follow in a cold pit. Only failure could be 
expected by the plan you describe, but as you acted “ under orders,” 
obviously the fault does not rest with yourself. Rooted offsets should 
be planted in good soil in the open air in April, the runners suppressed, 
red spider subdued, and strong plants with bold crowns will be pro¬ 
duced by autumn for establishing in pits or frames before winter 
for flowering during the dull months of the year, the supply largely 
depending on the weather when no heat from fermenting materials 
or otherwise is afforded. A hundred times more flowers will be 
produced by this method than by the one you have been instructed to 
carry out. 
X>apagerla Vnbealthy {M. C. D .).—There are two main reasons 
why these plants are often in an unsatisfactory state in pots 1, Close, 
soil not sufficiently drained, and hence sour. 2, Pots so densely crowded 
with roots that the plants do not receive adequate support. Lapagerias 
usually grow best planted out in a bed at least 18 inches deep, the 
bottom 6 inches being of drainage, broken clinkers and charcoal being 
excellent, the remainder springy turfy peat and loam, twice the quantity 
of the former, with a liberal admixture of charcoal, the whole to be 
pressed down as firmly as the turfy nature of the compost permits. A 
bed thus prepared can scarcely be made sour, due provision being made 
for the free exit of water from the drainage, and when the soil is per¬ 
meated with roots it is not easy to give too much water; until then 
water must be given more sparingly, yet the soil should never become 
at all dry. If you prefer growing the plant in a pot, prepare the 
soil similarly. In the event of your plant not having rooted freely, it 
will be advisable to remove a good part of the old soil, which will be 
sour, and give fresh as suggested, thinning out and shortening wiry 
growths to the best buds you can find, syringing the plant twice or thrice 
a day according to the weather, to prevent excessive evaporation from the 
leaves, and so assist the emission of fresh healthy roots, which alone can 
invigorate the plants. We know of Lapagerias that grow luxuriantly 
and flower profusely on the north side of greenhouses. 
Transplanting- Asparagus {J. G.). — If the ground is well 
stirred, as you propose, to a depth of 2 feet or 2 feet 6 inches, and ten 
cartloads of manure are added and well incorporated with the soil, care 
being taken to keep the good soil on the top, not burying it at the bottom 
of the trenches nor bringing much, if any, of the poor soil to the 
surface, it ought, if of a friable nature, to grow good Asparagus. It is 
well not to move the plants until they are beginning to grow, and if the 
shoots have pushed a few inches it will be an advantage rather than 
otherwise. Lift them carefully, preserving all the live roots possible. 
As the plants are ten to twelve years old they will probably have a 
number of decayed roots. It is not necessary to lift or preserve any 
except the live crowns with their shoots and buds and all the live roots 
attached. Stretch a line where you wish the rows to be, and take out a 
trench on both sides with a spade, sloping outwards from the line about 
9 inches wide and 6 inches deep at the extremities ; this will give a 
ridge which should be knocked down where the plants are to be, so as 
to form a seat, and so deep that the top of the crown will be level with 
the top of the ridge. Dispose the roots evenly in the sloping cuts on 
both sides of the ridge, and cover them with some fine rich soil. Cover 
with the soil taken out, and place it over the crown to the depth of 
2 or 3 inches. Mulch between the rows and over the crowns with a 
couple of inches of lumpy manure, the remains of spent Mushroom beds, 
or partially decayed leaf soil. After the plants are in free growth 
liquid manure may be given between the rows, and continued at weekly 
or fortnightly intervals up to early September. The first growths will 
perhaps be comparatively poor, being crippled by the transplanting and 
consequent disturbance and loss of roots ; but after the plants become 
established they push a strong second growth, and to throw the full 
vigour of the plants into them the first growths should be cut away 
when the second are well advanced alx)ve ground or beginning to 
“feather;” and a reservation should be made of two or three of the 
strongest about midsummer, the other being cut away. If the plants 
are large more shoots may be left, but crowding is a great evil, and one 
of the chief reasons why the “produce” is so small as to please 
nobody. With attention to these matters, and to staking if necessary 
to prevent damage from winds, there is no reason why the plants should 
not succeed and afford good heads for cutting next spring. 
ITames of Plants.— We only undertake to name species of plants, 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes. 
Slightly damp moss, soft green grass or leaves form the best packing, 
dry wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at 
once, and the numbers should be visible without untying the ligatures, 
it being often difficult to separate them when the paper is damp. 
{R. 11 .).—Cotoneaster Simonsi. {G. Me.). —1, Sedum carneum varie- 
gatum ; 2, Doodia media ; 3, Polypodium pustulatura ; 4, Asplenium 
palmatum ; 5, Adiantum capillus-Veneris ; 6, Doodia caudata. 
COVENT CARDEN MARKET.— April .otii. 
Market very dull during the holidays. 
FRUIT. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
3. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
Apples, half sieve .. .. 
1 
0 to 3 
6 
Lemons, case . 
10 
Oto 15 
0 
,, Nov.a Scotia, per 
Oranges, per 100 .. .. 
4 
0 
9 
0 
barrel. 
12 
0 
17 
0 
St. Michael Pines, each .. 
3 
0 
6 
0 
Grapes, per lb. 
1 
6 
4 
0 
Strawberries, per lb. 
3 
0 
5 
0 
,, (ne-sv) per lb. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
1. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
Beans, Kidney, per lb. .. 
0 
6 
to 1 
0 
Mustard and Cress, punnet 
0 
2 
to 0 
0 
Beet, Red, dozen. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Onions, bunch . 
0 
3 
0 
5 
Carrots, bunch. 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Parsley, dozen bunches .. 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Cauliflowers, dozen .. .. 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Parsnips, dozen. 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Celery, bundle . 
1 
0 
1 
3 
Potatoes, per cwt. .. 
2 
0 
5 
0 
Coleworts, dozen bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafy, bundle. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
Cucumbers, dozen .. .. 
o 
6 
4 
0 
Scorzonera, bundle .. ,. 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Endive, dozen . 
I 
3 
1 
6 
Seakale, per basket .. .. 
1 
3 
1 
6 
Herbs, bunch .. ,. .. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Shallots, per lb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Leeks, bunch . 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Spinach, bushel. 
3 
0 
3 
8 
Lettuce, dozen. 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Tomatoes, per lb. 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Mushrooms, punnet .. 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Turnips, bunch. 
0 
3 
0 
4 
AVERAGE WHOLESALE PRIOES.—OUT FLOWERS. 
Orchid Blooms in variety. 
s. 
d. 
s. d 
3. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
Arum Lilies, 12 blooms .. 
2 
0 to 5 0 
Narciss, var., French, dozen 
Azalea, dozen sprays.. 
0 
6 
1 0 
bunches . 
3 
0 
to 6 
0 
Bouvardias, bunch ., .. 
0 
6 
1 0 
Orchids, per dozen blcoms 
3 
0 
12 
6 
Camellias, doz. blooms .. 
1 
0 
3 0 
Pelargoniums, 12 bunches 
8 
0 
12 
0 
Carnations, 12 blooms 
2 
0 
4 0 
Pelargoniums, scarlet, doz. 
Chrysanthemums, dozen 
bunches. 
5 
0 
8 
0 
bunches. 
2 
0 
4 0 
Primroses, dozen bunches 
1 
0 
3 
0 
Daffodils, double, dozen 
Primula (double) 12 sprays 
0 
9 
1 
0 
bunches . 
1 
0 
3 0 
Roses (French), per doz. .. 
2 
0 
6 
0 
Daffodils, single, dozen 
,, „ boxes, 100. 
5 
0 
8 
0 
bunches. 
2 
0 
8 0 
„ (indoor), dozen 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Eucharis, dozen. 
S 
0 
6 0 
„ Red, per doz. blooms.. 
1 
6 
4 
0 
Gardenias, per dozen 
3 
0 
5 0 
„ Tea, white, dozen .. 
1 
6 
3 
0 
Hyacinth, Roman, 12 sprays 
0 
6 
1 0 
„ Yellow, dozen .. .. 
0 
4 
0 
Lilac, white, French, per 
Tuberoses, 12 blooms.. .. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
bunch . 
3 
0 
5 0 
Tulips, dozen blooms 
0 
6 
1 
6 
Lilium longiflorum 12 
Violets, Parme, French, per 
blooms . 
3 
0 
6 0 
bunch . 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Lily of the Valley, dozen 
Violets, Czar, French, per 
sprays . 
0 
6 
1 6 
bunch . 
1 
6 
2 
G 
Maidenhair Fern, dozen 
Violets, Victoria, French, 
bunches. 
6 
0 
9 0 
dozen bunches .. .. 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Marguerites, 12 bunches .. 
3 
0 
6 0 
Violets (English), dozen 
Mignonette, 12 bunches .. 
3 
0 
6 0 
bunches . 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Mimosa, French, per bunch 
1 
0 
1 6 
Wallflowers, doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
PLANTS 
IN POTS. 
s. 
d. 
s. d. 
3. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
Arbor Vit® (golden) dozen 
6 
0 to 12 0 
Ferns (small) per hundred 
6 
0 
to 8 
6 
Arum Lilies, per dozen .. 
9 
0 
18 0 
Ficus elastica, each .. .. 
1 
6 
7 
6 
Aspidistra, per dozen 
18 
0 
36 0 
Foliage plants, var., each.. 
2 
0 
10 
0 
Aspidistra, specimen plant 
5 
0 
10 6 
Genista, per dozen 
9 
0 
15 
0 
Azalea, per dozen 
24 
0 
42 0 
Hyacinths, dozen pots 
8 
0 
12 
0 
Cineraria, per dozen .. 
8 
0 
12 0 
Lilium Harrissi, per dozen 20 
0 
30 
0 
Cupressus, large plants,each 
2 
0 
8 0 
Lily of the Valley, dozen 
Cyclamen, dozen pots 
9 
0 
18 0 
pots. 
12 
0 
13 
0 
Deutzia, per dozen .. 
6 
0 
8 0 
Lycopodiums, per dozen .. 
3 
0 
4 
0 
Draceena terminalis. dozen 18 
0 
42 0 
Marguerite Daisy, dozen .. 
6 
0 
12 
0 
„ viridis, dozen .. 
9 
0 
24 0 
Myrtles, dozen. 
6 
0 
9 
0 
Dielytra, per dozen .. 
6 
0 
9 0 
Palms, in var.. each .. 
1 
0 
15 
0 
Euonvmus, var., dozen .. 
6 
0 
18 0 
„ (specimens) .. 
21 
0 
63 
0 
Evergreens, in var., dozen 
6 
0 
24 0 
Primula, single, doz. pots 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Ferns, in variety, dozen .. 
4 
0 
18 0 
Tulips, dozen pots 
6 
0 
9 
0 
Upon the sound principle that a farm should be self-support¬ 
ing, our readers have repeatedly been advised to rely upon 
home grown produce for feeding live stock, and to avoid cake 
bills and other purchased food. We have gone further, and 
explained how economical in the most comprehensive sense of 
the term the use of silage, corn, and straw is, and how by a 
mixed dietary, in combination with general good management, 
live stock may still be fed to profit. Since the soundness of 
such advice is questioned, and an inference drawn that it is mis¬ 
leading, we must call to our aid the testimony of some notable 
