April 13. 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENEH 
291 
getting the full beneht of the limited amount of light and sun¬ 
shine which we hive in the early months of the year. I find the 
plants thrive much better if the earthing is done on four separate 
occasions for early Melons, and on two or three for later ones. 
In all instances the soil employed should be warm and moderately 
dry. When in this condition it ought to be rammed firmly, but 
should the plants through any cause be somewhat stunted in growth 
the soil may with advantage be left with but little ramming. I 
always like to give the final earthing by the time the fruits are as 
large as a hen’s egg, so that the roots may thoroughly permeate 
every portion of the soil by the time the fruits approach maturity. 
The best method of stopping and training to adopt is a matter 
which has undergone much discussion, and the various systems 
advocated have each their special advantages, provided they are 
well carried out. Taking all points into consideration, I believe 
the practice of securing one crop of fruit from each set of plants, 
then uprooting them, and replanting with a fresh batch, is the best 
in the majority of instances ; but where only one house or pit can 
be devoted to Melon culture, I would strongly advise one set of 
plants to be grown through the entire season. By so doing a 
regular supply of fruits may be maintained by continually laying 
in fresh growths and setting a few flowers when the preceding 
fruits have completed their first swelling. This system is also 
well adapted for structures in which a large amount of roof space 
is at command ; and, moreover, the highest obtainable flavour 
in Melons is developed under this system of culture. When 
carrying out this method, stop the leading growth when it has 
advanced 3 feet from the bottom wire, and the side shoots at one 
leaf beyond the fruit. The leader may then be allowed to extend 
for another 3 feet, and the laterals treated m the same way as the 
first set, then by the time the allotted space is covered, some of the 
old shoots at the base of the plants will be ready for removal, their 
place being filled up by young growths, which under good culti¬ 
vation form readily enough in all directions. By keeping these 
thinly disposed, moderately strong wiry-looking shoots are obtained 
which are much le^s likely to be affected by canker than t’ne strong 
growths on young plants. 
When the system described above is followed the laterals which 
form near the first wire of the trellis should be stopped to one leaf, 
for they generally produce flowers which open so much in advance 
of others that there would be but little chance of obtaining a good 
crop ot fruits, if these early flowers were retained and fertilised, 
unless the setting of other flowers were delayed till this pair of 
fruits had completed their first swelling. All other laterals should 
be allowed to grow for a time until it can be clearly seen that four 
or five fruits in the same stage of development have been obtained ; 
every alternate lateral should then be cut away, and one or two 
leaves (according to the space at command) be retained beyond the 
fruit. Should any fruit at this early stage show signs of growing 
strongly at the expense of others on the same plant, tie the shoot 
carrying it downward so as to cause an abrupt bend below the fruit 
and thus check the flow of sap. When a proper balance has been 
restored secure the shoot again in its proper position. Simple 
attentions of this kind performed at the right time invariably 
account for the difference between full even crops and uneven or 
light ones. 
The subsequent attention required in the way of stopping is to 
remove or stop at one joint laterals, which are being formed in 
parts where there is no room for their development, always taking 
care to avoid stopping the whole of the young growths at the same 
time and to have a little growth constantly going on on all shoots 
carrrying a fruit as a means of keeping up active root-action and 
preventing the production of tough-skinned badly ripened frui's. 
When stopping is performed in wet or dull weather an equal 
mixture of lime and soot should be placed upon the wounds made 
by pinching, which should always be done with the finger and 
thumb in preference to the knife.— Labor Omnia Vincit. 
(To be continued.) 
EARLY BEDDING. 
About this date, earlier or later according to state of weathei> 
I plant out all those bedding plants that are not tender, such, for 
instance, as Koniga variegata, Veronica Andersoniana variegata, 
Pentstemons and Cilceolarias. Where it is pos'^ible to put out these 
plantain their places thus early, it facilitates the planting of tender 
things at the usual time. Further, a certain amount of frame spice 
is thus left clear for other plants, and there is no labour wasted 
in watering and other necessary attention- 1 . The transplanting of 
Calceolarias at this period saves much work. Until I planted Cal¬ 
ceolarias in this way they could not be depended upon to live, now 
they thrive exceedingly well. Another plant which caused much 
annoyance by dying off during the early autumn months is Chamae- 
peuce diacantha ; and since I have planted early no plant could 
thrive better. 
For the past few years Dahlias have also been planted on the 
beginning of Anril. The evolution of this practice was in this 
wise. Cactus Dahlias are late in flowering when propagated from 
cuttings in the spring. The tubers of spring-struck plants, more¬ 
over, are apt to decay during the winter. The original stock 
plants of Juarezi happened to be put out in a warm position, where 
for several years the plants lived undisturbed. These invariably 
flowered early and most abundantly, even in seasons when hardly 
a flower coukl be obtained from young plants. For two years I 
started all the old tubers in cold frames and planted them out at 
the usual time. Then I tried some single varieties with buds 
started, planted out in the first week of April, and since that time 
I have planted all our stock at the same period and in the same 
way. It will be understood that exhibition blooms are not 
looked for, but only flowers for cutting and plants to give a good 
decorative effect. 
I adopt the following method of planting the Dahlias. The 
tubers are cut or pulled into good sized pieces, each with two or 
three buds started. The stations which the plants are to occupy are 
then marked off. A hole of sufficient size to allow a covering of 
3 or 4 inches of soil above the root when planted is made at one 
end of a row. The soil from the second hole is placed over the 
first plant, then that from the third is put over the second, and so 
on. The growths come up strongly about the end of May. When 
large enough two shoots of each plant are pegged down, and the 
superfluous growths are removed. In addition to securing a 
healthier, more early, and free-flower,ng plant with tubers which 
keep without loss, the system has these advantages. There is no 
necessity to start plants in hothouses in order to produce cuttings, 
because the latter are not required. There is no potting, nor space 
occupied in houses or frames, and the work of planting is done 
quite as expeditiously and with less pressure than at the usual 
time. Where only a few plants are cultivated the latter feature is 
not of course of much account ; but when, as in our own case, 
some 500 plants are required, the difference in every respect is 
marked. Two years ago I left our plants in the north with their 
earliest flowers open, and did not see a single bloom during a flying 
visit, which embraced parts of Kent, Essex, Surrey, and Middlesex. 
A visitor from the south last year expressed surprise to see Dahlias 
flowering in Scotland at a time when no flowers were to be seen in 
the south of England. 
The practice of pegging down the young shoots is also a good 
one. Last year I was complimented by a well-known horticul¬ 
turist on the fine plants of Tom Thumb Dahlias I had in a large 
clump. He was somewhat surprised when assured they were 
ordinary sorts which had been pegged down.—B. 
CHASSELAS NAPOLEON GRAPE. 
This Grape is not, according to the leading French authorities, 
synonymous with Panse Jaune. Mr. E'ienne balomon .says Chas- 
selas Napoleon is not a Chasselas, and ics real name is Bicane ; 
origin, the Department of Cher ; very vigorous, pretty fertile, vtry 
large ; bunch loose, spreading ; berry ovate, very large, amber- 
white ; midseason. . . 
Panse Jaune is described as follows :—Not a Chasselas ; origin, 
Provence ; very vigorous, fertile ; bunch large, long, with shoulders, 
not compact; berry above medium size, ovate, greenish-white, 
turning to yellow on maturity ; indifferent setter ; season late. 
Hebeneveld. _ 
Now that all has been said that can well be said in relation to 
this old French Grape, may I venture to suggest to the Fruit Com¬ 
mittee of the Royal Horticultural Society that ail this bother 
might have been avoided had that body, at the time the Grape 
was submitted to it, before hasting to award a first-class certi¬ 
ficate, rather have held any award over until full and complete 
inquiry had been made as to its origin, character, and general 
fitness for the honour proposed to be granted ? 
It is rather a serious thing to make awards of this kind to any¬ 
thing, for its value is regarded by outsiders oftimes with lings 
of greater concern, perhaps of reverence, than exists wiihin the 
Committee ; and such an award to a Grape, and especiallv’ w iat is 
now proved to be an old and oft-tried and oft-re]ecf«-d Grape, 
renders such an award all the more serious. The moral is ribvious. 
neither to oblige a neighbour, or to gratify a hurried fancy for any¬ 
thing new or old, should there be too much haste, and if aU such 
awards were provisional for three months prior to confirma ion or 
otherwise, it would be all the better.—Vixis. 
