802 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 13, H'3. 
which Mr. Baker, gardener to F. H. Brady, Esq , Wykehatn, Burgess 
Hill, was awarded second prize. Pots of Mignonette were grandly 
represented by Messrs. J. Peed & Son, who very easily won the first 
prize; Mr. A. Golding, gardener to Horace St. Geo. Voules, Esq, 
Uplands, Dyke Eoad, Brighton, being second ; and Mr. Hill third. 
For twelve Cinerarias, Mr. Murrell was first with some grand speci¬ 
mens, Mr. House being second, and Messrs. W. Miles & Co. third. Mr. 
G. Miles was first for six Cinerarias, and Mr. Meachen second. There 
were only two entries in the class for twelve double Primulas, Messrs. 
W. Miles cfe Co. being first, and Mr. Murrell second. For six double 
Primulas, Mr. House was first. Mr. Hill was first with twelve single 
Primulas, very fine plants. Mr. Jupp was awarded the first prize for 
six single Primulas. There were two competitors in the class for six 
pots of double Stocks, Mr. Hv. Smythe, Centurion Road Nurseries, 
Brighton, being first, and Mr. Hill third. For six Show Auriculas, Mr. 
S. Tilley, 13, Clermont Road, Preston Park, was first. Mr. Anderson 
was first with six Alpine Auriculas, showing excellent plants. In the 
class for twelve Polyanthuses, Mr. Baker was first; Mr. Wickham, 
gardener to J. K. Nye, Esq., Highlands, Keymer, second; and Mr. 
Anderson third. 
The competition was very keen in the class for twelve greenhouse 
Azaleas, Mr. Murrell being awarded first prize for some magnificently 
flowered specimens ; Mr. Jupp second, and Mr. Golding third. For six 
Azaleas Mr. Meachen was first, Mr. Sims second, and Messrs. Peed and 
Son third. In the class for six Ghent or Mollis Azaleas there was but 
one entry, that of Messrs. W. Miles & Co , who were adjudged first prize 
for their charming stand. For six Genistas Mr. Wickham was first with 
very fine specimens, Messrs. W. Miles & Co. second, and Messrs. Peed 
and Son third. There were seven entries in the class for six Deutzias, 
Mr. Meachen taking first prize, Mr. G. House second, and Mr. Wick¬ 
ham third. 
For six Roses in pots Mr. Meachen was first with magnificently 
grown plants, Messrs. Peed & Son second, and Mr. Fry third. Show 
Pelargoniums were excellently shown by Messrs. Pe^ & Son, who 
were awarded first prize. Mr. G. Mdes being second. Mr. Murrell 
was first for six double Pelargoniums, showing fine plants. For six 
Zonal Pelargoniums Mr, Meachen was first, Messrs. Peed & Son 
second, and Mr. Fry third. Arum Lilies were finely shown by Mr. 
Murrell, who gained the first prize, Mr. Meachen being second, and 
Messrs. Peed & Son third. For six pots of Strawberries bearing fruit 
Mr. Golding was first, and Mr. A. G. Davey, Oakwood Road, Burgess 
Hill, second; 
For groups of miscellaneous plants Mr. J. Turner, gardener to Sir 
G. Smyth, Wickham Hall, Furze Hill, Hove, was first with a grand 
exhibit; Mr. Miles second, and Mr. Meachen third. Mr, R, Miller was 
first for twelve bunches pf Narcissi ; Mr. Savage, 33. Western Road, 
Brighton, being second ; and Mr. G. Hart third. For boxes of cut 
flowers, Mr. J. Gore was first, Mr. Meachen second, and Mr. Wickham 
third. For tables of plants Mr, Jupp was first, Mr. J. Turner second, 
and Mr. G. Miles third. In the class for six Hydrangeas Mr. Hy. Smythe 
was first with magnificent examples, Mr. Hill and Messrs. Peed and 
Son being second and third respectively. 
For a brace of Cucumbers Mr. H. C. Prinsep, Buxted Park,Uckfield, 
was first with Sutton’s Matchless, Mr. Golding second, and Mr. G. 
Helman, gardener to the Right Hon. Viscount Gage, Firle Park, Lewes, 
third. For a dish of Strawberries Mr. Ball, fruit grower, Shoreham, 
was first, Mr. G. Helman second, and Mr. Golding third. Mr. Thos. 
Fairs, gardener to R. Clowes, Esq., Clayton Wickham, Hassocks, was 
first for two bunches of Grapes ; Mr. Kemp, gardener to C. R Scrasse- 
Dickens, Coolhurst, Horsham, being second. Lady Downe’s Seedling 
was staged by each competitor. 
Mr. H. C. Prinsep sent a fine table of plants, not for competition. 
Messrs. Balchin & Son, nurserymen, Brighton, staged a magnificent 
group of foliage and flowering plants ; and Messrs. J. Cheal & Son, 
Lowfield Nursery, Crawley, a fine table of Apples, neither of which 
exhibits was for competition. 
The amateurs’ division was excellently represented, the entries being 
numerous and the competition very keen. 
j*^ j" 
“ 
^FOIITHE week.. ' 
1 
- 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Early Houses .—Where, the Vines were started early in 
December the Grapes will be taking their last swelling, and if any of 
the bunches are too crowded remove a few of the least promising berries 
with a pair of fine'y pointed scissors, taking care not to stab any of 
those left. The inside borders should be well supplied with water or 
liquid manure, and they must not be allowed to become dry after the 
Grapes are ripe, as moisture at the roots is necessary for the perfecting 
of the growth. Choose a bright fine morning for watering, and admit 
air rather freely, so that all superfluous, moisture will disappear before 
ventilation is reduced for the day. A little short, sweetened lumpy 
manure may be spread on the surface,to stimulate the roots and 
prevent the soil cracking. Keep a sharp look out for red spider, and 
if any appear on the leaves sponge the affected parts carefully with a 
softsoap solution, 2 ozs. to the gallon of water; this, though a tedious 
process, is an excellent remedy, and taken in time effectually prevents 
the spread of the pest. Painting the hot-water pipes with sulphur 
brought to the consistency of cream with skim milk is an old remedy for 
red spider, and very effectual against mildew, but care must be taken 
not to give a powerful dose, as the fumes are very injurious to the 
tender skins of Frontignan and Muscat Grapes. Ventilate night and 
day when the berries begin colouring, and increase it as they approach 
ripeness, maintaining, however, a circulation of warm, rather dry air 
until the Grapes are thoroughly finished, when the temperature should 
be gradually reduced. 
Vines in Flower .—Muscats and other shy-setting Grapes require 
a rather high temperature to set freely, the points of the bunches being 
kept well up to the light, and a free circulation of air with a fair supply 
of atmospheric moisture to prevent the young foliage suffering under 
the influence of bright sun. The temperature may be maintained at 
70° by night, but with the Vines in good condition free setting is effected 
with 65° or even 60° at night, a little air being admitted constantly, 
and 70° to 75° bv day, with 10° to 15° rise from sun heat. When the 
bunches arc in flower they should be lightly tapped on the stem each 
day after the house has been ventilated an hour or two, or they may 
be brushed over lightly with the hand, which rids the flowers of their caps, 
sets the stamens free, and disperses the pollen on the stigmas. If there 
be no pollen visible as a yellowish dust when the bunches are brushed 
over with the hand it should be taken from varieties that supply it 
abundantly, as Alicante and Black Hamburgh, and a large flat camel’s 
hair brush be filled with it and the bunches brushed over after the hand 
has been drawn over them, refilling the brush with pollen as occasion re¬ 
quires, it being collected on a sheet of white paper turned up at the edges. 
Alnwick Seedling, Mrs. Pince, Lady Downe’s, and other varieties liable 
to produce small seedless berries should be carefully fertilised on fine 
days, when the caps part readily from the flowers. 
Late Houses .—Accelerate the growth of late Vines by making the 
most of solar heat, as all long-keeping Grapes cannot be over-ripened for 
keeping sound for some months after they are removed from the Vines, 
Lady D iwme’s ripened by early September being quite fresh in May and 
June. Ventilate early on fine mornings, as soon as the sun acts on the 
house, and allow the heat to rise to 80° with increased ventilation and 
plenty of moisture, clos ng in time for it to rise to 85° or 90° from sun 
heat on fine afternoons. A temperature of 60° at night will be sufficient 
until the Grapes flower, when 5° more will be necessary to increase the 
length of the bunches and produce conditions favourable to the setting 
of the fruir. Gros Colman, Gros Guillaume, and Alicante set freely; 
but most other kinds of late Grapes require careful artificial impregna¬ 
tion, they being attended to as before advised. 
Planting Vines .—When the Vines commence growing is a good time 
to plant them, they having been cut back in early winter and been kept 
in a cool house, the growths will be 1 to 3 inches long. Turn them out 
of the pots, remove all the soil, preferably washing it away, and preserve 
the fibres. Spread the roots out straight and flat, the soil of the bolder 
being brought to the required height, covering the roots to a depth of 
3 or 4 inches, working the soil well amongst them with the hand, and 
giving a good watering at a temperature of 90°, and mulch a foot farther 
than the roots extend with an inch thickness of lumpy manure. If the 
Vines have not been shortened do not cut them hack now, but remove 
the buds from the upper portion of the cane down to where fresh growth 
is desired to issue, and shorten the eanes when the Vines are in full 
leaf. Sprinkle the Vines twice a day, but avoid forcing them into 
growth until they have formed new roots, as will be indicated by their 
starting freely, then afford a temperature of 55° to 60° at night, 60° to 
65° by day, advancing 10° to 15° from sun heat, closing early in the 
afternoon with plenty of atmospheric moisture. 
Mailing Borders .—Four to 6 feet width of border will be sufficient 
to commence with, confining the roots to the inside border (if planted 
inside) until that is fully occupied with roots, when they may be 
admitted to a prepared width of outside border. For gene'’al purposes 
the borders are preferably partly inside and outside ; for early forcing 
and tender varieties, as Frontignans and Muscats, inside borders only 
are best, whilst for greenhouses or midseason Graj.-es the borders may be 
wholly outside, taking care to protect the stems with haybands In 
well-drained soils the Vines will produce excellent Grapes by merely 
trenching or stirring the ground 2 feet deep, as for other fruit trees, and 
feeding at the surface. Where the soil is unsuitable and the subsoil wet 
and cold it will be necessary to concrete the bottom of the border, b’ut 
it is quite unnecessary to do where the sub-stratum consists of gravel or 
other porous substance. Place in 1 foot thickness of rubble, pioper 
drains being provided to carry off the superfluous moisture. A thin 
layer of turves over the drainage will make it secure against the soil 
choKing it, but we prefer a 3 inch layer of old mortar rubbish freed of 
pieces of wood. Two feet depth of suitable soil is ample. It may 
consist of the top 3 inches of a pasture where the soil is a good yellow 
loam, containing a fair per-centage of small stones, as very lieavy close 
soil is not desirable, and this mixed with a tenth of old mortar rubbish, 
a similar proportion of broken oyster shells, and a like quantity of 
charcoal will grow fine Grapes, phosphatic and potassic manures being 
supplied by the .‘urface, with nitrogenic elements after the Vines 
require aid to growth. 
As turf is rich in nitrogen, but deficient of phosphoric and potassic 
elements, as well as of soda and lime, 10 lbs. of kainit and 17 lbs. of 
