April 13, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
308 
Thomas’s phosphate powder may be mixed with each square yard of 
border 2 feet deep (18 cubic feet), mixing well, and these substances 
will not only afford mineral matter over a long period, but render others 
available, and prove useful against predatory larvie. Basic slag, how¬ 
ever, is not desirable for soils other than those containing much humus, 
as the rich soil of gardens, or considerable vegetable matter, as turf. 
As a rule it would be much better to rely on the ordinary soil of 
gardens, over efficient drainage, than to bring in fresh loam, often at 
great expense, for the production of Grapes. 
Yuu7ig Vines .—Those planted last spring will now be breaking 
naturally, and when the buds have pushed growths about half an inch 
long a little fire heat will prove beneficial, especially on cold days. Re¬ 
move all buds except one at each break, retain the strongest and crop 
lightly, but supernumeraries may be allowed to carry as many Grapes 
as they are calculated to colour well. Leave the shoots on the permanent 
Vines about 18 inches apart on both sides of the rods, and pinch the 
laterals on the extension canes at the first leaf, and sub-laterals may be 
similarly treated, removing all tendrils, and stopping the main canes at 
6 to 9 feet, so as to secure those extents with well developed buds and 
thoroughly ripened wood. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Globe ilrtlcbokes. — Unprotected clumps are dead in many 
instances, and all of those that were heavily banked up with either 
strawy litter or ashes were also badly crippled by frosts. The strongest 
growths, or those which if they escape destruction by frosts are the 
first to produce flower heads, have quite disappeared, and in their 
place are numerous weakly growths. Unless the latter are early and 
freely thinned out they will greatly weaken each other, and the 
crops be very poor accordingly. The first proceeding should be to 
well bare the clumps and also the surface roots to a distance of 
18 inches, and after the suckers have been reduced to about three, or at 
the most four to each stool, to cover the roots with a layer of solid 
manure, returning the soil previously thrown back on to this. It should 
be remembered that these Artichokes cannot well be grown too strongly, 
hence the necessity for good dressings of manure, followed later on, 
if the season promises to be a dry one, with occasional heavy waterings. 
Forming Tresb Beds.— Old beds soon become incapable of pro¬ 
ducing extra fine succulent flower heads, and are also the first to collapse 
in hot dry weather. Young plants, according to the requirements of 
the establishment, ought, therefore, to be put out every spring and an 
equal number of old ones destroyed, none being retained on a site for, 
say, longer than five years. These Artichokes should have a deep and 
very freely manured root run prepared for them, no vegetable grown 
standing in greater need of this, or better repaying for the extra trouble 
incidental to high culture. Ground naturally of a strong retentive 
charac'er best suits them, and in order to have this in a finely divided 
state the trenching ought to have been done soon enough for frosts, 
winds, sunshine and rain to properly pulverise it. If the planting must 
be carried out on lumpy ground surround the roots with a little fine 
added soil. When the old stools are bared for the purpose of thinning 
out the shoots or manuring, that is the time for detaching good side 
shoots with a few healthy roots attached. These should be planted with 
a trowel in groups of three each, the groups to be 3 feet apart each way 
and the plants about 8 inches asunder. None of the stem should be out 
of the ground, but the heart ought to be kept clear of the soil. If the 
ground is all dry give the young plants a watering and mulch with 
strawy litter. The majority ought to produce serviceable flower heads 
in the autumn and abundance of extra strong ones early next year. 
Seedling Globe iirtlcbokes. —Seedlings are very easily raised, 
and can be had large enough to produce freely the same season. If the 
stock of old plants was destroyed last winter or an early supply of 
seedling Artichokes is wanted for any other reason, the seeds may be 
sown at once, three or four in every 4-inch pot, and placed in heat. They 
will germinate quickly, and the seedlings should early be reduced to 
one in each pot. Before they become badly root-bound, harden off and 
plant out either as advised in the case of divisions or 18 inches apart in 
rows 3 feet apart. Given a little attention at the outset, they will grow 
strongly, and throw up their flower stems early, when the worthless 
forms should be cut out as fast as they are detected. A late supply may 
be had by sowing seed now, either in rows or patches, at the distances 
recommended for the pot plants, thinning out of the seedlings being 
early resorted to. The Green Globe are the most reliable. 
Asparagus. —Open-air beds have furnished a surprise, cutting 
having commenced a month earlier than usually happens. Instead of 
having to forward it, something has had to be done to retard or to 
protect the young shoots. The latter when first peeping through the 
ground are most susceptible of injury from frosts, and during April, if 
not later, ought to have the benefit of protection. All that is needed is 
a fairly thick covering of strawy litter, this being placed on the beds and 
lightened up after heavy rams. Such coverings, in addition to protecting 
the young shoots, also serve to conserve the moisture in the beds during 
the summer .and to keep down weeds. All the shoots that show through 
the lifter ought to be cut in the evening whenever frosts are imminent. 
Planting Asparagus. —While bright weather is prevalent plant¬ 
ing might usually with advantage be deferred, but now that growth 
is so far advanced the first favourable opportunity that offers for tr.ans- 
planting Asparagus should not be missed. Dull warm showery weather 
is the best time tor doing this important work. Planting on the level 
answers well in the case of warm light sods, but where the opposite 
prevails raised beds are to be preferred. In the former instance the 
plants may be put out from 18 inches to 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet 
apart, no pathways or alleys being needed. Raised beds 5 feet wide wiR 
hold three rows of plants, the outside ones being 12 inches from the 
edges, and for an early supply bels 3 feet wide to hold two rows of 
plants answer well. In either case dispose the plants not less than 
15 inches apart. More than ordinary pains should be taken in planting. 
Either open wide drills or single holes, making the bottoms slightly 
rounded, set the plants on this, and spread out the roots evenly, covering 
with good fine soil, the crowns being eventually disposed 2 inches 
below the level. It is a mistake for salt or any other strong artificial 
manure to come into contact with the newly disturbed Asparagus roots, 
but a liberal sprinkling of fish bone manure would prove most beneficial. 
There must be no cutting from Asparagus before the plants have been 
iu their present quarters at least two clear seasons, a little self-denial 
in that direction well repaying in the end. 
Sowing Asparagus Seed. —It is not yet too late to sow Asparagus 
seed, and it may be done either in shallow drills not less than 15 inches 
apart, with a view to have abundance of plants for forming fresh beds 
a year or two hence, or the seeds may be sown where the plants are to 
remain permanently, the rows being arranged the same distances apart 
as advised in the case of putting out plants. If the drills are dry when 
opened give a gentle watering prior to sowing, and the seed will then 
germinate quicklv and strongly. 
Potato Planting. —The weather has been very favourable for this 
work, and all may now be completed. Only the short-topped quickly 
maturing varieties are suitable for planting with a view to cropping 
between with Brussels Sprouts, early Broccoli, autumn Cauliflower, and 
Borecoles. Arrange the rows of Potatoes not less than 3 feet apart, 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Allamandas. —Those that it is intended to train under the roof 
should not be allowed to start away with too many shoots, or else they 
will before the season is over become a crowded mass and overshade 
plants growing beneath them. Not only should the shoots be well 
thinned, but attention is needed in this matter every time they show 
flower and start again into growth. Those that are growing freely must 
have liberal supplies of water, and all that have not yet commenced 
flowering should be well syringed in order to keep the plants free of 
yellow thrip. 
Steptaanotls florlbunda. —Plants that are growing freely should 
not be kept too hot and moist, or else the growing ends will turn yellow' 
and die. Employ less fire heat and give air freely during fine days to 
induce firm sturdy growth, which is then certain to flower profusely. 
Plants that have their pots full of roots and are growing and flowering 
should have weak stimulants every time water is needed. . Syringe 
freely in order to keep the plants free from mealy bug. If any make 
their appearance syringe with the petroleum and water solution,. but 
shade the plants until the oil has evaporated. 
Clerodendron Balfourlana. — Specimens that have flowered 
should be encouraged to grow by placing them in moist heat. Grow the 
plants fully exposed to the sun, and if possible train the growing shoots 
beneath the roof. They ripen better and flower more profusely by this 
method than when the growths are trained closely to trellises of various 
shapes. Young plants raised from cuttings should be potted, as they 
need more root room ; train these under the roof to a thin cord, so that 
they can be thoroughly ripened. Plants in 7-inch pots are most useful 
for the decoration of the conservatory, and well repay the trouble 
involved in growing a batch from cuttings annually. 
Folnsettlas. —Old plants that were cut back will have started into 
growth sufficiently to have the soil shaken from their roots and be 
repotted. Directly these are started give them an intermediate tempera¬ 
ture. Young plants raised from eyes and placed thickly together in 
pans will be rooted ; these should be potted singly, or a good number of 
their roots will be destroyed in dividing them. 
IVepentbes. —Do not allow bright sun to reach these plants, or their 
foliage will quickly be browned. Syringe freely to keep the foliage free 
from thrips, and never allow the plants to approach dryness at their 
roots. Pinch all shoots that have made more than four or five leaves, or 
they soon fail to produce pitchers. When healthy all shoots that are 
pinched soon break again into growth. It is only by pinching theih 
freely that large bushy plants that will continue to pitcher can be 
produced. 
Tustlcla flavicoma. —The earliest cuttings will be well rooted, 
and should be transferred into 4-inch pots. Start them again in brisk 
heat, and then place them in an intermediate temperature. Insert 
another good batch of cuttings singly in thumb pots, and place them 
under handlights where they can be shaded from the sun until they 
are roofed. 
Tydseas. —Cuttings of evergreen kinds such as Madame Heine and 
others sUould now be rooted in thumb pots. They root so freely that 
when the necessary stock of cuttings have been obtained the old plants 
may be thrown away. When the cuttings are rooted and have grown a 
few inches in length the points may be re-rooUd, when those from 
which the tops have been taken will branch freely and make large 
bushes. 
Gardenias. —Plants that have flowered may be pruned back and 
started again into growth in brisk heat. If they can be given gentle 
bottom heat all the better until they have begun to grow, when they 
m.ay be repotted if they need it. When cut back, if infested with scale 
or mealy bug, syringe them freely with petroleum and water, using 
2 czs. of oil to each gallon of water. 
