JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 13, 1893. 
30 i 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Weather and Bees. 
We have had another week of cloudless sky, with a day 
temperature ranging from 56^ to 68°, and the night temperature 
from 27° to 30°. The days are hazy, which hinders the bees from 
being so active as they would with a clear atmosphere. In fact, 
they are not nearly so active as they were during the two last 
weeks in March, although the Gooseberry blossoms are well out 
now. No doubt the seeming inactivity of the bees is due to the 
electrical state of the atmosphere. On the evening of the 6th the 
flashes of lightning were frequent, and the day was sultry. Not 
more than twice during the past half century has there been so 
much fine weather at this same time of year, or so many high 
temperatures. 
The Condition of Hives. 
Everywhere, if casualties through carelessness and bad manage¬ 
ment are exempted, bees are generally speaking in a forward 
state. From the Midlands I hear of supers being added, and in 
many places in Scotland hives are ready for them or swarming. In 
an apiary only half a mile distant from me, but out of the smoke, the 
hives are sweating greatly, and increasing in weight. They are all 
of Tunisian blood. A gamekeeper who lived in Africa, although 
not a bee-keeper, recognised the bees in another good apiary as 
Tunisians, not “Punics,” as the owner called them. I will 
endeavour to have an interview with him for the purpose of 
acquiring information. 
Punics and British Bees. 
I am certain that the first cross Punics are the most industrious 
bees imported into this country, and they are much milder in 
temper than the original British bee, which, however, is probably 
extinct in this country, notwithstanding assertions to the contrary. 
I appeal to all who have pure Punics to report their doings and 
behaviour from no «v onwards until the end of the season, so that 
notes may be compared, and the facts made known. It is a fore¬ 
gone conclusion that the crosses are superior, but it is desirous we 
should know more about the pure bees in a good season. 
Queen Cells. 
These are raised by the Punics in great numbers. In order to 
overcome the difficulties which arise through that, and avoid the 
unnecessary delay caused by it, the bee-keeper should examine 
stocks on the ninth day after swarming and destroy all surplus 
queen cells. This advice applies to other varieties as well. 
Honey —A Caution. 
Some bee-keepers are apt to be deceived with the quantity of 
honey gathered during a spell of fine weather such as we are 
enjoying. They should not trust too much to appearance'^, but 
make sure of the amount gathered and stored. Bees are increasing 
rapidly at present, which adds weight to hives, but at the same 
time food consumers, the stores being consequently reduced much 
quicker than some may imagine, and if inclement weather sets in 
the hive, unless fed, may be doomed to destruction. Hives are 
earlier than is usually the case, and it would be a mistake to delay 
too long the feeding if it be required. When the fruit blossoms 
are available to the bees the latter seldom require after assistance, 
but it is prudent to make sure on the point. 
Extra Appliances. 
With an extra fine summer it is astonishing the space bees 
fill with combs and honey. Larger and extra hives and supers 
should be provided, so that no difficulty may arise nor disappoint¬ 
ment be experienced as the season advances when hopes run high. 
—A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper. 
Re-queening—Artificial Swarming. 
I SHOULD like to ask “ A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper ” whether I 
ought to re-queen my two hives of English bees. They were 
bought twelve months ago as stocks headed by two young queens. 
We had no swarms last year, and I may say that I never had bees 
with the same amount of brood on the Ist of April. What I wish 
to know is whether or not I should introduce new ones, and when. 
Could I rear my own, or purchase one ? A few hints on artificial 
swarming would be appreciated.— H. Richardson. 
l^It is not necessary to requeen hives that have queens of 1892 
until the end of June or beginning of July, pre-nming they are 
taken to the moors. In the case mentioned we should let them 
swarm, then on the ninth day afterwards form nuclei by dividing 
combs, hees, and brood into as many as are strong enough. If 
successful with the nuclei it will be the better plan to depose the 
old queens, and introduce queens of the nuclei when laying ; this 
gives youthful blood, and the best results follow. The proper 
time to rear queens is at the natural swarming time, when the hives 
are crowded with bees and the combs full of brood or honey. 
Artificial swarming should be performed when the bees and 
hive are in a fit state for it, and then only, otherwise the hopes of 
profit disappear. Straw hives should be inverted upon some plat¬ 
form or other contrivance. An empty hive is at first placed over 
the mouth of the stock, and a few raps on it will cause the bees to 
fill themselves and ascend into the empty hive ; when they begin to 
do this draw it to one side and rap with the other, or with a hinge 
made for the purpose the two hives may be fastened together, 
and the empty one held at the proper angle, allowing a full view of 
both hives, and freedom with both hands. In all artificial swarm¬ 
ing there is a great tendency for the bees to search out the old 
stock and go back to it. It is therefore advisable to be sure that 
plenty of bees are left to tend the brood, and remove it a consider¬ 
able distance from the old site, which the swarm should occupy. 
Repeatedly I have had swarmed stocks removed within doors, yet 
the bees found them out. 
With frame hives the task is more simple. Remove the frame 
with the queen on it, place it in a new hive on the site of old stock, 
then brush gently, or shake from the other frames the proper 
number of bees on to the swarm, and remove the stock as with the 
straw hive. Put a frame filled with foundation in the vacancy, and 
form the nuclei as advised above.—A. L. B. K.] 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Charles Turner, Royal Nurseries, Slough .—Softtoooded Stove and 
Greenhouse Plants. 
W. Paul & Son. Waltham Cross .—New Roses and Florists' Flowers, 
John Laing & Sons, Forest Hill, S.E .—New and Bare Clivias. 
•^•All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor ” or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix op on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. AU 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Compost for Tea Roses (F. 2).).—Turfy loam of medium texture, 
a sixth part each of crumbled manure and leaf soil, with a little 
crushed lime rubbish and wood ashes for ensuring porosity, will grow Tea 
Roses in pots well if the plants are kept quite free from insects and 
good judgment is exercised in watering. In the absence of either of 
those essential conditions, the best pt soil will not produce healthy 
growth and good blooms. A pound of crushed bones mixed with half a 
bushel of the compost would improve it considerably, but excellent 
results are obtained without such addition, any extra support needed by 
the plants being afforded by top-dressings or liquid manure. 
J^ayerlnK Chrysantliemums (An Amateur^, — The process i& 
perfectly easy, and with ordinary attention you need have no fear of 
failure occurring. Plant a few old plants out of doors m a row ; let 
them grow as wild as they choose till the month of July ; then take 
as many pots as plants are required, and plunge them, filled with 
some rich soil, into the ground, at such a distance from the plants 
growing in the ground as will allow the tops only, when bent down, 
to reach the pots; bring them carefully down, and peg each branch 
firmly into the soil. Leave about 2 inches of the top out of the 
soil. If the shoot is branched it is well, but if not it must not be 
topped, because there is some danger that the layer may continue to 
grow and not flower if topped so late in the season. The aim of this 
mode of propagation is to make them flower when very dwarf; and, 
therefore, the layer should have buds upon it just visible at the time 
when the layering is performed. Keep the soil in the pots moderately 
moist till roots are formed, and after that water more freely. When it 
is certain the layers have made plenty of roots cut them tff from the 
parent, plant, and remove them into a frame or pit deep enough to 
receive them. Should they Bag during the day, give a sprinkling of 
water, and shade for a day or two till they recover ; then give air and 
water freely. They will then be good plants, about a foot high, with, 
perhaps, six or ten flowers on each. 
