April 20, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
807 
A COMPOST of five cartloads of sound turfy loam, one cart¬ 
load of lime rubble, one of wood ashes, one of horse 
droppings, and an ordinary sized barrowful of fresh soot will 
suit the requirements of the Vine admirably. The whole should 
be well mixed before being formed into a border. In this 
mixture Vines will grow freely and yield satisfactory crops of 
fruit for several years, other things being duly attended to ; but 
should the cultivator be disposed to add 2 cwt. of half-inch 
bones to the above ingredients it will be all the better for the 
Vines. Where indifferent loam has to be used in the formation 
of Vine borders two bags of Thomson’s Vine manure should be 
added to every eight loads of the compost described, turning 
the whole over two or three times before use. 
In making a Vine border the first point to be determined is the 
width and depth it shall be, also ascertaining the highest water 
level of the place, so as to keep the bottom of the border well 
above that point. According to my experience the majority of 
Vine borders in England, Ireland, and Scotland are made much 
too wide and also too deep. Who, I ask, has ever found a Vine 
border 12 or 15 feet wide, feet deep at back, and a little less 
than 3 feet deep in front, full of roots at any time ? I never have. 
Consequently I have, in recent years, considerably reduced the 
width and depth of some of the Vine borders here with advantage, 
A border 7 feet wide, 2 feet 9 inches deep at the back, and 
about 6 inches less in the front from the concrete bottom will 
afford ample space for the roots of the most vigorous-growing 
Vines, 
The bottom of the border should have a fall of 6 inches from 
the back to the front, at which point a series of deep gutter bricks 
should be set in cement on a level with the bottom of border and 
connected with a drain for carrying off superfluous water. Unless 
the subsoil consists of stone or chalk it will be necessary to place 
6 inches thick of concrete, composed of five parts of gravel to 
one of stone lime, well mixed on the bottom. A like thickness of 
chalk pounded well together will answer the same purpose. Six 
inches thick of brickbats, broken somewhat fine on the top, should 
be laid on the hard bottom for drainage, covering this with turves 
from 1 to 2 inches thick, grass side down, thereby completing a 
quick and sound drainage. In forming the border make it in 
sections 3i feet wide from the front wall of the vinery, keeping 
the soil in position with a side wall built of turves, and making 
allowance for the loosely thrown together soil subsiding 6 or 
7 inches within a few weeks from the time of making the border. 
If the border is an inside one the soil should be in the house say 
a week before planting is done, to allow of its becoming slightly 
warm before being brought in contact with the roots of the young 
Vines when turned out of the pots. 
Although Vines may be successfully planted any time during 
the interval from February to the end of September, according to 
circumstances, the present is, in my opinion, the best month in the 
year for doing such important work, as the Vines are then less 
liable to experience any check in the process of being transplanted. 
The external and internal conditions admit of an equable and genial 
temperature in the soil and house being maintained with but 
little assistance from the hot-water apparatus, and thereby favour¬ 
ing a sturdy growth being made, other points being attended to 
No. 669.—VoL. XXVI., Thikd Sbriks. 
in the way of ventilation and the distribution of moisture at the 
roots and in the house during the heat of the day. 
Before planting the Vines make a series of holes 2 feet apart, 
beginning at 2 feet from the end, between the front wall and the 
hot-water pipes, the entire length of the border. If the border is 
an outside one make the holes close up to the wall opposite the 
spaces cut therein for the Vines to be taken into the house. 
Then provide a sufficient amount of rather fine soil of about 
the same temperature as that in which the Vines are growing in 
the pots for placing around them when being planted. Assuming 
the Vines are of this year’s raising from eyes, or if “cut-backs” 
that they had been shaken out early, root-pruned, and repotted, 
there will be no necessity for disturbing the roots in planting, but, 
on the contrary, turn them carefully out and plant them 1 inch 
deeper than they were in the pots ; the permanent Vines mil way 
between the rafters, and those for yielding a crop of fruit next 
year between them, making the soil firm. Put a stick to each 
Vine for support and secure the rods loosely to the trellis, but 
eave them sufficiently long to subside 6 or 7 inches with the soil. 
Give sufficient tepid water through to settle the soil about the 
roots, and then a surface dressing of horse droppings or other short, 
manure to the thickness of 2 or 3 inches. 
In the event of the cultivator having to plant one-year Vines^ 
obtained from the nursery, or home-grown which had not been 
shaken out and treated as described above earlier in the year, it will 
be necessary to disentangle and shorten back the roots, then spread 
them out in every direction with a slight inclination downwards, 
cover with 6 inches of soil, and give water as recommended above ; 
also afford shade from sunshine with mats or other heavy material 
during the heat of the day until the roots commence working, 
maintaining a close moist atmosphere and syringing the Vines 
slightly three or four times a day to keep the foliage fresh and 
encourage new growth in root and branch. 
After the Vines have taken well to the new soil the shading 
should be discontinued, and plenty of fresh air admitted to 
the house during the heat of the day, closing early in the after¬ 
noon, say from 3.30 to 4.30, during the next four months, with 
plenty of water distributed in the house, and thoroughly syringe 
the Vines at the same time. Admit a little air in the morning 
when the thermometer has registered 75°, afterwards increasing 
and decreasing the amount according to the rise and fall of the 
temperature. Also give tepid water at the roots in proportion to 
the daily increasing requirements of the individual Vines and the 
lengthening hours of light and increasing power of the sun’s ra's. 
During the months of September and October air should be 
more liberally admitted to the houses, leaving the top and bottom 
ventilators open a little at night, and maintaining altogether a 
drier atmosphere in the house until the Vines have shed the 
leaves, with the object of thoroughly maturing the wood. Let 
the stopping and pinching of the young growth be proceeded with 
on the lines laid down at page 281, under the heading of 
“ Pruning Vines—an Object Lesson.” — H. W. Ward, Longford 
Castle Gardens. 
THE SPRING IN A SCOTTISH MANSE GARDEN. 
Spring is the most interesting season of the year. Autumn is, 
indeed, more impressively beautiful, with its gorgeous woods and 
ethereal sunsets ; but its loveliness is everywhere touched and 
saddened by the presence of decay. Spring, on the other hand, is 
essentially a period of hope; it tells of bloom and beauty yet to 
come. 
Since I wrote my last article to the Journal of Ilorticidture 
(page 251) on this fascinating subject the weather has been 
exquisite, at least by day ; though (perhaps on the principle that 
every gift has its penalty) it has been for purposes of growth and 
development too prevailingly dry. The influence of the heavy 
No. 2325.— VoL. LXXXVIII., Old Series. 
