324 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 20, 1880. 
full ventilation. Attention must be given to the following operations 
according to the respective condition of the trees. 
Dishudding. —Too early disbudding has a tendency to hinder the first 
swelling of the fruits, and there is danger of rendering the shoots too 
gross, which is inimical to the fruit stoning satisfactorily and the future 
crop. It should not be begun until the fruit is well set and swelling, 
yet there must not be any delay in commencing this operation as soon as 
the shoots can be displaced with the finger, continuing it from day to 
day, or at short intervals, until all the superfluous growths are removed, 
leaving only those required for the perfection of the current crop for 
producing next year’s and the extension of the trees. One shoot must 
be trained in from the base of that now bearing, another on a level with 
or above the fruit, pinching it at the second or third good leaf, and a 
growth encouraged from the extremity of extensions, training those in 
their full length, having the main branches about 12 inches apart and 
the bearing shoots 15 inches asunder, calculating from the base on last 
year’s wood. Close training results in weak overcrowded growths ; all 
should be well exposed to light and air to secure sturdy shoots with 
well developed buds and thoroughly ripened wood. 
Thinning the Fruits. —When the fruit is the size of horse beans the 
smallest, ill-shapen, and worst placed, as those on the under side of the 
trellis, should be removed first, commencing with the weakest parts of 
the trees, thinning proportionately more there than on stronger wood, 
which from carrying more fruits will tend to the equalisation of the sap, 
consequently vigour of the trees. The fruits should be thinned again 
when the size of small marbles, doing it in all cases gradually, and after 
the fruits attain the size of a Walnut only a few more than those required 
for the crop need be left to meet casualties in stoning. One fruit of the 
large-fruited varieties to every square foot of trellis covered by the trees 
is a fair crop. Those that produce medium sized fruits may be left at 
every 9 inches square, which is a suitable distance for Nectarines. 
Tying-in the Young Shoots, —To heel-in the young shoots early is 
essential to symmetrical training, and it must be done so as to give the 
proper direction to the growth without breaking it, leaving sufficient 
space in the ligature for the swelling of the shoot. This is of the 
utmost importance as a safeguard against gumming. After the right 
inclination is imparted to the shoots very close tying-in is undesirable 
rrntil the final one before the fruit commences ripening. 
Syringing the Trees. —This must be practised twice daily on all fine 
days and on all trees not in flower or with the fruit ripening, for they 
must be kept free from red spider, as when it gets a hold it is difficult to 
dislodge, and allowed to have its own way it materially affects the present 
and succeeding crop, often ruining both. In dull and wet weather 
syringing should not be practised in the afternoon, and in the case of 
vigorous trees less syringing is necessary than for those with stouter 
foliage. The afternoon syringing should be done at closing time, so as 
to have the foliage nearly dry before night. 
Feeding and Watering. —Whenever inside borders become moderately 
dry a thorough supply of water should be given to render it regularly 
moist to the drainage. Watering borders needlessly only tends to sappy 
growths, and its opposite extreme of dryness induces stunted wood, with 
a preponderance of blossom buds, and aids red spider. Weakly trees 
may be assisted with nitrogenous manures, as liquid manure from stables 
or cow houses properly diluted with water, mulching the border with 
short partially decayed manure, which will keep the roots at the surface, 
but it is little use unless kept moist, yet not constantly soddened. 
Free growing trees, on the other hand, should have due supplies of super¬ 
phosphate, say 4 ozs. per square yard, but no mulching, or only slight 
to prevent the soil cracking and keep it evenly moist, Thomas’ 
phosphate powder may be used where the soil has become close and full 
of humus at a similar rate to the superphosphate, both being employed 
at intervals of about six weeks as the cases require. 
Late Houses. —Still continue to fertilise the blossom, selecting the 
early part of fine days for the operation. Where there are means of 
affording heat the temperature should be maintained at 50° by day, and 
40° to 45° at night, in all instances accompanied by a little ventilation 
at the top of the house, increasing it when the temperature reaches 50°, 
and having it full at 65°. In unheated houses commence ventilating at 
the same temperature, and close at 65° when there is a prospect of frost 
at night. A light syringing after the fruit is set will aid it in casting 
off the remains of the flowers, but it should be practised early in the 
day, so as to have the trees and house dry before night. 
Pines.—Young plants in course of preparation for fruiting are 
rendered soft, drawn, and weakly in growth by a close atmosphere, 
which should be avoided by the employment of as little fire heat as 
practicable, husbanding the sun heat, and maintaining a moderate 
moisture in the house, by which means robust growth, combined with a 
sturdy habit, is secured. Maintain, however, a night temperature of 
60° to 65°, and 70° to 75° by day. Commence ventilating at 75°, 
gradually increasing with the temperature to 85°, keeping it through the 
day at that heat from solar influences, or 90° to 95°, with abundance of 
air. Sprinkling will be necessary at closing time, also in the morning, 
but do not close the house at a high temperature, and syringe the plants 
about twice a week. Keep the bottom heat steady at 85°, or not less 
than 80°, nor exceeding 90°. Examine the plants regularly twice a 
week, and when water is required (only then) apply it liberally. 
Weak liquid manure (guano being, perhaps, the best) may be applied 
to plants swelling, but not ripening their fruits, and little or no water 
should be given these. As thie fruit ripens both plant and fruit may be 
removed to a cooler house, which will permit the fruit being kept sound for 
a lengthened period, longer, perhaps, at this time of year than any other. 
When the suckers of fruiting plants become large enough screw out the 
centres of those not required for stock ; one, or at most two, suckers 
should only be retained to a plant. In the case of large panes of glass, 
and the sun very powerful, a slight shade for an hour or two at midday 
will be of service ; but with small panes of glass it will not be needful. 
If the plunging material settles down from the pots apply fresh to the 
surface to keep the pots from being acted on prejudicially byi’the 
atmosphere. 
Itlelons.— Earliest Crops. —The fruits are now approaching maturity, 
March having been the finest month for Melons during the past eighteen 
years—rainless, sunny, and not particularly sharp. In damping the house 
avoid wetting the fruits, as that would cause those with hard rinds 
to crack, and, though a drier atmosphere and similar condition of the 
soil is desirable when the fruit is ripening, its quality or finish depends 
on clean healthy foliage, and if care is taken to keep the plants healthy 
a second crop of fruit will set without much trouble. This crop will be 
considerably advanced in swelling and without prejudice to the first 
crop by the time it is ripe, all flowers being removed after a sufficient 
number of fruits has been secured for the crop, attending to the usual 
stopping. 
When the first crop is gathered supply a little fresh warmed lumpy 
loam and water freely, following at once with rather thick but 
not overstrong liquid manure, and sprinkle a little superphosphate and 
nitrate of potash on the bed occasionally, say a small handful of this 
mixture, three parts dissolved bones, one part powdered saltpetre, and 
one part ground gypsum mixed. Keep well syringed, well nourished, 
and the plants will supply not only a second crop of fine fruit, but some¬ 
times a third or fourth, provided bad leaves are removed, new growth 
encouraged, and it is kept clean and healthy. 
Succession Houses. —Plants in these require frequent attention for 
stopping, tying, thinning the shoots, impregnating the fully expanded 
blossoms in the middle of the day when the pollen is dry, acting upon a 
sufficient number on a plant about the same time to secure a regular 
set, so that the fruit may be of a simultaneous stage of swelling, which 
is essential to full crops and uniformity and size. Houses that have 
been used for winter Cucumbers may be utilised for Melons. Remove 
all the old soil, scrub the woodwork with soap and water, using clear 
only for the glass, and wash the walls with limewash with a handful of 
sulphur in each pailful. Good turfy loam, with an admixture of old 
mortar rubbish and some road scrapings, form a suitable compost. If 
heavy add about a fifth of burned clay to the loam, placing the compost 
compact in the ridges or hillocks, and when warm put out the plants 
and press the soil firmly around each. 
Pits and Frames. —Excellent Melons can be grown in these after 
they have been cleared of forced Potatoes. The seed to furnish plants 
should now be sown and the plants be grown and stopped at the second 
rough leaf, so as to have them strong, but not stunted by keeping them 
root-bound, for planting in the beds, which, as a rule, will only require 
an addition of fresh fermenting material mixed with the old to a depth 
of about 18 inches, so as to generate a gentle warmth and give the plants 
a start, the sun heat doing the rest. 
Cucumbers.—Plants in houses will require abundant moisture 
both at the roots and in the atmosphere, damping frequently and 
syringing the plants both ways about 3.30 P.M., closing at the same time 
or earlier, according to the weather. Shading will be necessary in the 
middle of the day for an hour or two in bright weather to prevent 
flagging; but with the roots healthy and abundant, and moderate 
ventilation, little shading will be needed. To maintain a good supply 
of fruit with regularity, frequent attention must be given to the stop¬ 
ping, thinning, and providing a succession of young growth, cutting 
out the bare and exhausted and avoiding overcropping. Supply an 
occasional top-dressing of lumpy loam to which a third of sweetened 
horse droppings have been added, and afford water at the roots when 
necessary, always before the plants are distressed, but never before 
the soil is becoming rather dry, as a sodden soil is very pernicious. 
In watering plants in pits and frames do so sufficiently early to have 
the foliage dry before night. Maintain a good bottom heat by renewing 
the linings, being careful to avoid rank steam inside the frame by the 
soil being parted from its sides, or the night covering hanging over the 
linings. Still employ mats or other material over the lights at night, 
which are yet cold. Ventilate early, or at 75°, and moderately, main¬ 
taining through the day at 80° to 90° from sun heat, husbanding the 
latter by early closing, a temperature of 90° to 100° not doing any harm, 
but good, provided there is plenty of moisture. Avoid overcrowding, 
keeping the shoots stopped to one joint beyond the fruit, removing bad 
leaves as they appear. If wireworms be troublesome, as they sometimes 
are when turf is used, baits of Carrot inserted in holes just within the soil 
will attract them, the baits being examined daily, and the wireworms 
destroyed. 
For woodlice baits of Potato, Beet, or Mangold Wurtzel, with the 
middle scooped out, form good traps, or a boiled Potato wrapped lightly 
in a little hay in flower pots, and placed where the woodlice abound, 
and examined daily, soon clear them. A toad placed in the frame will 
soon destroy the woodlice. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN. 
Auriculas. —Choice or named varieties are usually increased by 
means of slips and rooted divisions taken after the flowering period, and 
the more generally grown alpine section can be similarly propagated.. 
Seedlings, however, are the more vigorous, equally floriferous, and are 
easily raised. It the seed was not sown last month it is not yet too late 
