344 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 27, 1893. 
WOKK.foii™eWEEK., 
FEUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Houses. —A dry atmosphere in result of incessant 
firing and the necessity of withholding the customary dampings when 
the fruit is advanced in ripening encourages red spider, and, as this pest 
spreads with alarming rapidity where it obtains a footing under such 
conditions, prompt steps must be taken against it. Water is undoubt¬ 
edly the best preventive of red spider ; but the application of water to 
Vines by the syringe, even when clear soft water is used, is destructive 
of the bloom, and in some cases leaves a deteriorating mark where the 
water hangs on the berries. If a sharp look out is kept on the foliage, 
and whenever the smallest patch of brown appears to be caused by red 
spider, and the part is carefully sponged with a softsoap solution, 2 ozs. 
to a gallon of water, the pest will be prevented from spreading. The 
Vines will be kept in health until after the crop has been removed, 
when recourse can be had to insecticides, and the eradication of the 
insects by syringing. As future crops depend upon the preservation of 
the foliage in health, early attention to this work is imperative. Where 
Grapes are swelling a careful examination of the border should be made, 
and if the inside or outside borders (the latter, in some cases, being 
unusually dry for the time of year through the prolonged drought) 
are dry, a liberal application of tepid liquid manure will be a powerful 
aid to the Vines and inimical to red spider. 
Grapes now colouring will require abundance of warm air by day 
and night, with plenty of moisture on the paths, walls, and border, but 
avoid keeping the latter constantly saturated. Gradually reduce the 
night temperature as the berries ripen, keeping the atmosphere cool and 
rather dry, yet not arid, for the Grapes will keep better with moderate 
air moisture, provided it is not stagnant, the temperature being kept at 
about 60° at night. The soil also must be kept in a moderately moist 
condition, early Vines requiring much more water after the fruit is ripe 
than late ones. If fermenting materials have been employed on outside 
borders, remove them gradually, leaving a light mulching only of the 
most suitable, the partially decayed, for the protection of the surface 
roots, and allow them to have exposure to the summer rains, which will 
wash in the fertilising elements of the mulching and promote,root action, 
stimulating the Vines into the production of new laterals after they are 
relieved of the crop, these preventing the premature falling of the 
foliage and consequent starting of the principal buds. 
Midseason Houses. —■ Proceed with tying down the growths, stop¬ 
ping the shoots and laterals, and attend to thinning the bunches and 
berries. If a large percentage of the surplus bunches were cut off 
before they flowered there is likely to be a better set of Grapes than 
where they were left until the flowering is past. Allow an even 
spread of foliage over the space at command, but avoid crowding, 
yet the more leaves a Vine has the more food it will assimilate con¬ 
tingent on their being in a position to do so—that is, are fully 
exposed to light and air. Supply liquid manure to inside borders, 
also outside when needing moisture, and mulch with a little lumpy 
manure, renewed from time to time so as to maintain about an inch 
thickness. Nothing answers better than horse droppings for heavy 
soil, but they must be sweetened, otherwise the ammonia evolved will 
be too powerful for the tender foliage of the Vines. For light soil 
cow manure is better, drying it a little before use, so as to have it 
rather lumpy, for a close surface prevents the access of air and the 
food elements are liable to become effete. Ventilate early—a little by 
the time the sun acts on the house, and increase it with the rising 
temperature, closing sufficiently early for the latter to rise it to 85° 
or 90° with plenty of atmospheric moisture, and if there is too great an 
accumulation of it a little ventilation given at the apex will allow the 
vitiated air to escape and prevent excessive moisture being deposited on 
the foliage. 
Late Houses. —April has been everything the Grape griwer could 
desire—not cold and plenty of sun—and late Vines have started well 
and are making rapid progress. Disbudding must be attended to, 
leaving no more shoots than there is room for, not being in too great 
a hurry in tying down the growths, yet not allowing them to touch 
the glass, and stopping them to within three or four joints of the 
fruit. The best time to do this work is the latter part of a fine day 
when the growths are limp through the evaporation and .the warmer 
and drier atmosphere. Fertilise Muscats and other shy setting 
varieties every fine day when they come into flower and the “caps” 
are being thrown off or easily removed, choosing the time when the 
temperature has reached its maximum and air has been admitted for 
an hour or two. 
Late Haniburghs. —Where these have been allowed to start naturally 
they will be in a condition to require disbudding, tying down, and 
regulating the growths, stopping not less than two joints beyond the show 
of fruit—preferably a joint or two more where there is room. Pinch the 
laterals at one joint below the fruit, above also where the space is 
limited, otherwise allow them to extend so as to insure an even covering 
of the space with foliage that can have exposure to light, afterwards 
keep closely stopped. Commence ventilating early and freely to secure 
short-jointed sturdy wood and stout leathery leaves. Avoid a saturated 
condition of the atmosphere, as that only tends to soft growth, and is 
further accelerated by a soapy state of the soil. A light mulching of 
lumpy manure or loam will encourasre surface roots, save watering, and 
in some ca.ses greatly benefit the Vines by causing them to emit roots 
from the stem at the collar. 
Newly Planted Vines. —When the Vines have recovered the effects of 
planting they will grow freely, and therefore aim at a sturdy and short- 
jointed growth, with thick leathery leaves of a healthy bluish green colour. 
Take advantage of sun heat to increase the ventilation early in the day 
to get the food elements well elaborated, aiming more at food stored than 
an extensive growth ; stopping laterals at the first leaf and the cane when 
it has made 8 or 9 feet of growth, taking every possible care of the main 
leaves, not allowing them to be interfered with in any way by the 
laterals. Keep the soil moist, bub rather under than over wet, and close 
early with plenty of atmospheric moisture. 
melons.—The fruit in the early house now ripening will require a 
drier atmosphere in order to secure high flavour, ventilating a little at 
night, for pent up air does not favour colouring and quality, but is likely 
to cause the fruit to crack. In houses where the fruit is swelliug the night 
temperature should be maintained at 70°, 70° to 75° by day artificially, 
ventilating at 75°, increasing it with the heat, and maintaining through 
the day at 80° to 85° or 90° from sun heat, and close the house about 
3 P.M. or earlier, so as to run up to 90°-100° with plenty of moisture. 
Add more warm soil to the hillocks or ridges as the roots push through 
their sides, which must be repeated at intervals until the allotted space 
is filled, pressing it firmly. Young plants must not be allowed to become 
pot-bound before being planted, or they become stunted and rarely make 
a free satisfactory growth afterwards. Any that are likely to get into this 
state should be shifted into pots 2 inches larger in diameter than those 
they are at present in, so as to keep them in steady progressive growth 
until the hillocks are got ready for them. Sow seed to raise plants for 
successional planting. 
Cucumbers. —Syringe the plants in hot-water heated pits or houses 
twice a day, so that every part of the foliage may be kept free of red 
spider, but it must be done without damaging the leaves, which are very 
brittle and easily injured. Plants in full bearing require liberal and 
frequent applications of liquid manure at a temperature about the same 
as the bed, but do not supply it so as to cause a soft growth. Avoid 
crowding and overcropping. Use no more fire heat than is absolutely 
necessary, yet the temperature must be maintained at 65° to 70° at 
night, and 70° to 75° by day artificially, and as the fire heat is lessened 
less moisture will be required, and must be reduced accordingly. Attend 
to the necessary stopping, thinning, and tying of the shoots, keeping up 
a succession of fruitful growths. Straight fruit are finer looking than 
crooked ; where the first are in request the fruit should be placed in 
glasses as soon as fairly set and the flower kept on, or three pieces of 
board nailed together so as to form an open-ended trough, make a good 
substitute. Make sowings or plantings as necessary to maintain a 
supply of fruit exceeding rather than unequal to the demand. 
Plants in pits and frames should be frequently seen to for the regula¬ 
tion of the growths, keeping them rather thin, stopped one joint beyond 
the show of fruit, and removing bad leaves as they appear. A sprink¬ 
ling at closing time will be sufficient for these plants, not allowing them 
to suffer through lack of moisture at the roots, nor supplying water 
until it becomes necessary, for a sodden soil is destructive to the roots 
and induces canker and gangrene, which sometimes affects the fruit and 
renders it unwholesome. Ventilate early, increase it with the heat, and 
close early in the afternoon so as to maintain a good temperature well 
into the night. Attend to the linings, taking care to avoid rank steam 
getting into the frames or pits, and employ covering over the lights for 
some weeks longer, or until the weather becomes so warm that the night 
temperature of the frame does not fall below 65°. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Brussels Sprouts. —If this important crop is liable to fail early, 
then ought more seed to be sown in the open; these late-raised 
plants, duly put out in good ground, frequently producing excellent late 
sprouts. All raised under glass ought to be pricked out about 4 inches 
apart on somewhat sheltered borders, the soil of which has been 
well pulverised. Exceptions may be made to this general rule in 
favour of any raised rather late and thinly; these, if not unduly 
coddled, being quite strong enough to be dibbled out where they are to 
remain for the season. The latter is the least laborious plan, as those 
pricked out have to be transplanted with a trowel the next time they 
are moved. Brussels Sprouts pay well for liberal culture, and should 
have a fairly rich and deep root run, this being made rather firm for 
them, and the plants be put out in rows, if the varieties are strong 
growers, 3 feet apart and 2 feet asunder in the rows. On poorer ground, 
or if the varieties are of a neat habit of growth. Paragon and The Bullet 
not requiring much room, the distances may be 30 inches and 18 inches 
respectively. The usual practice, however, is to dispose them between 
early Potatoes widely planted directly the latter are moulded up. 
Early Broccoli. —A good batch of these, notably Veitch’s Autumn 
Protecting, should be raised under glass, and treated in every way 
similarly to Brussels Sprouts, only given rather less room, the rows 
being 30 inches apart and the plants 2 feet apart in the rows ; or these 
may also be grown between widely arranged rows of Potatoes. There 
is no such thing as making these early Broccoli really frost-resisting, 
but they are of the greatest value for lifting and storing under glass, 
and therefore should be grown most extensively and well. If sufficient 
