April 27. 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF Horticulture and cottage gardenefl 
815 
plants of the variety named are put out a good supply of hearts of 
superior quality can be had from the time autumn Cauliflowers are over 
till February, always supposing ample protection from frost i.« afforded. 
Late-raised plants, or any obtained by sowing seed in the open during 
April or the first week in May, not unfrequently prove exceptionally 
profitable at midwinter and later. 
Cauliflowers. —Those put out under hand-lights, and also quite in 
the open and roughly protected, have made good progress, the extra 
warmth in the soil, coupled with help from the watering-pot, suiting 
them well. They will be wanted, too, earlier than usual, owing to the 
Broceoli turning in so rapidly ; and liquid manure ought to be given 
them directly they shows signs of hearting. This will expedite growth, 
and also considerably increase the size of the hearts. Any raised thinly 
in boxes or beds of soil under glass, and well hardened off, may well be 
dibbled out where they are to remain, and thus treated are less likely 
this season to heart in prematurely than will be the case if pricking-out 
into nursery beds, and then transplanting, has to be resorted to. Not 
many summer Cauliflowers are wanted, but no mistake is often made in 
the direction of growing too many plants of the Autumn Giant. Treat 
plants of this variety that were raised under glass similarly to the 
Autumn Protecting Broccoli, and if more seed is sown now, the plants 
obtained will, if planted on good ground in succession to early Potatoes, 
afford a supply of acceptable late hearts, especially if roughly protected. 
Eclipse is the only other variety worthy of being sown at this late date, 
and grown alongside the Autumn Giant will heart in from ten days to 
a fortnight earlier than that old favourite. 
Borecole. —There is no necessity to raise any of these under glass, 
or in many cases very early in the open. Instead of sowing seed thickly 
in beds and either pricking out the seedlings or allowing them to stand 
about long enough to become very leggy before they are put out, the 
wiser plan is to sow the seed late in April or early in May thinly in 
drills and well in the open. By the time the plants are fit to set out 
the sites are usually ready for them. Read’s Hearting, though not 
particularly hardy, ought always to be grown owing to the very superior 
quality of the hearts, while the Asparagus Kale is worthy of being 
cultivated owing to its hardiness, good quality, and productiveness late 
in the spring. The last named answers well when sown during May in 
drills where the plants are to remain. The drills need be no more than 
20 inches apart, and the plants may be left rather thickly in the rows. 
IMCldseason and Bate Broccoli. — The remarks anent sowing 
Borecole too early also apply with even more force to midseason and 
late Broccoli. Unless early raised plants can be put out quickly they 
soon become drawn, and leggy plants are the worst to deal with and 
the first to succumb to frosts. The end of April or early in May is 
also the best time for sowing Snow’s Winter White Broccoli. Raised 
and planted out much earlier the plants are liable to attain a great size 
and produce nothing but quite worthless hearts. In each and every case 
open drills rather thickly, well moisten them if at all dry, then sow the 
seeds thinly and level over. The seed will germinate quickly this season, 
and serviceable plants be had without much further trouble. If 
birds are troublesome either roll the seeds first in a damp cloth and 
then in powdered red lead prior to sowing, or else net over after they 
are sown. Slugs and the Turnip flea should be kept off by means of 
occasional dustings over of the liny seedlings with a mixture of soot and 
lime. 
Chou de Burghley.— This, again, is liable to grow far too rankly 
to be serviceable when raised and put out early, but if the seed is sown 
in the open now, and there be no undue delay in getting out the plants, 
Chou de Burghley will be found one of the best winter vegetables that 
can be grown. The other “ hybrid ” Cabbages may be similarly 
treated. 
Savoys. —These rank among the most popular of winter vegetables, 
especially if not grown too strongly, extra large close heads not being 
nearly so much appreciated as those smaller and not so Close and 
blanched. Raising and planting early is also very likely to result in 
most of the varieties being ready for use long before they are wanted, 
spoiling accordingly. If Tom Thumb, Dwarf Ulm, Dwarf Green 
Curled, and Drumhead Savoys are sown now, and the seedlings receive 
fair treatment, the first-named will be ready for use quite as soon as 
usually required, and the rest will afford a good and long succession. 
Other Seeds to be Sown.— The Extra Early Milan Turnip suc¬ 
ceeds well on a south border, but in order to have the milder and more 
tender Snowball and Veitch’s Red Globe good, these ought to be sown 
either on an east border or on ground partially shaded by fruit trees and 
bushes. Now is a good time to sow Carrots in variety, and also Beet, 
Chicory, Salsafy, and Scorzonera. All form the cleanest and straightest 
roots when sown on freely working ground, well manured for the pre¬ 
vious but not these crops, contact with solid manure causing the tap 
roots to fork. The rows of Horn Carrots should be 10 inches apart, the 
other varieties 12 inches, while 15-inch distances are suitable for all the 
other kinds named. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Brlcas.— Pot any plants of E. hyemalis that have started freely into 
growth and that need more root room. Drain the pots well, and use for 
a compost good peat and coarse sand. Do not disturb the old ball 
further than is necessary to remove the drainage. The soil should be 
pressed firmly round the ball so that water will not pass through the 
new material and leave the old dry. After potting place the plants on 
moist ashes in cool frames. Give abundance of air daily, so that they 
will make a firm sturdy growth. Water carefully at first, and keep the 
plants moist as long as possible before giving them water at their roots 
by gentle syringings and amongst the pots. Give the plants light shade 
for the first ten days or a fortnight after repotting them. 
Epacrls. —Repot plants that need more root room if they are in a 
healthy condition. Similar compost should be used in potting these 
plants as is needed for E. hyemalis. If the plants have been grown in 
cool quarters they may be placed in cold frames, but they do best when 
encouraged to make their growth by closing the frame early in the 
afternoon, syringing at the same time. Directly these plants are 
rooting freely in the new soil more air should be given them, so that 
their growths are firm and sturdy. It is a mistake to shade too long or 
to grow the plants in a close confined atmosphere. 
Hardwooded Heaths. —All plants that need tying should be 
attended to without delay. Do not use more stakes than are absolutely 
necessary. Water with care, but do not allow these plants to become 
dry at their roots. Any plants that are required to flower late may be 
retarded by placing them in a cool airy house with a northern aspect. 
Young plants should have strong growths that are taking the lead drawn 
towards the rim of the pots so that the weaker ones will gain strength. 
Any flowers that show on these young plants should be removed at once 
if the object is to grow them as rapidly as possible. 
Azaleas. —Remove the seed pods from Azaleas as they go out of 
flower, and place the plants where they can be kept close and moist to 
induce them to make a good growth. These plants, if they need more 
root room, may be repotted now. They do well in good peat and coarse 
sand, or may be grown satisfactorily in leaf mould that has not been 
heated and fibry loam, with a liberal addition of coarse sand. Material 
of this nature must be free from worms, and pressed firmly into the pots. 
Before potting, examine the plants carefully, and if infested with thrip 
syringe them at once with a solution of tobacco water. 
Camellias. —Shade, where practicable, all plants that are making 
their growth. Give them liberal supplies of water at their roots, and 
maintain a moist atmosphere. Any that are confined at their roots in 
pots or tubs should have weak stimulants every other time they need 
water. Soot water in a clear state will prove very beneficial. 
Cytlsus racemosus. —Plants that have flowered may be cut close 
back, and when they have broken into growth, repotted, if they need 
more root room. These plants do well in good fibry loam and sand ; if 
the former is poor one-seventh of decayed manure may be added. Place 
the plants in cold frames, which may be closed early in the afternoon 
until the former start into growth, when abundance of air should be 
given them. Pinch the shoots of young plants to induce them to 
branch, and pot them if they need more root room. 
Coronllla g^lauca. —Place young plants in cold frames and ventilate 
freely. If they need more root room put them into larger pots ; the 
compost advised for Cytisus, with the addition of a little leaf mould, 
will suit them well. Pinch the shoots to induce them to branch, and 
continue to do so if any display signs of taking the lead. Syringe 
freely, because this plant is very liable to be attacked by red spider. 
Callas. —Put young plants into 5-inch pots, and grow them cool, so 
that they will be ready for planting out soon and thus produce an early 
batch of flowers. Plants that are flowering feed with weak stimulants 
every time they need water, but those that have done flowering may be 
hardened and stood outside to rest. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Correspondence. 
The extremely fine weather on the 19th and 20th, when the 
night temperature was 48°, and the day temperature 72° and 73° 
respectively, has put action in bee-keepers as well as bees, the 
latter working as if it was midsummer, and the former examining 
stocks and making inquiry about them and their management. 
“ A Yorkshire Bee-keeper ” sends me a queen to see if I can 
unriddle the cause of her laying eggs that produce drones only. 
The queen is evidently one of 1892, and owing to the extremely 
low temperatures of that year, she, like many others, never mated. 
I am in receipt of nearly a dozen letters of a similar nature. 
PUNICS. 
The writer of another letter says, “ I have had to put on a 
second super to a stock of Punics, the first being nearly full of 
honey, drones flying, and everything just now like June. I am 
satisfied pure Punics are in no way inferior to hybrids.” I 
hope other persons having their bees pure or crossed will send 
in reports. 
Drone-breeding Queen and Unfed Hives. 
About the middle of April I observed many bees issuing from 
one hive with drone seals between their mandibles. It appeared 
a strong hive, and in a normal state ; but that did not satisfy me, 
and an inspection was made. Two divisions of a storifying Larark- 
shire hive were well filled with bees, and every available drone 
cell had its egg, larvai, or pupa, and there were moreover many 
