860 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 4 , 1893. 
character, are made, not to find pleasure in its beauty, but to outdo 
others. It is not an artistic but a sporting matter. It is hardly for an 
Englishman to take exception to wholesome rivalry, but there is not 
the healthy tone about this kind of thing which one can appreciate 
fully. _ 
Was there ever such a dearth of “ places ” in the spring as exists 
this year 1 There seems positively to be nothing moving, and the sick¬ 
ness of hope deferred must be finding its way to the hearts of those who 
are waiting for something to turn up which will give them an oppor¬ 
tunity of getting into harness again. Of all men, gardeners are the least 
anxious to eat the bread of idleness. They love their profession and 
find joy in their labour. They do not fight for high wages or special 
privileges. A tithe of the conditions demanded by the average trade 
unionist would more than satisfy them. It is hard, therefore, that those 
who are able and deserving should have to stand idle in the market 
place, waiting and still waiting for the openings that do not come. Why 
is it 1 Last year such a state of affairs could have been understood, for 
the cloud that gathered over the heads of the reigning family spread 
and had far-reaching influences, but this season no such calamity has 
occurred to dis-arrange the springs of society. It is likely enough that 
the financial troubles of which all men wot are largely responsible for the 
stagnation. Crash after crash has come in quick succession, and one 
establishment after another has been reduced to meet the exigencies of 
altered circumstances. Let us hope that the lowest depth has now been 
reached, and that a feeling of security will gradually grow up to replace 
the uncertainty and suspicion of the present. Foreign mines and foreign 
rails may seem to have but little connection with British gardening, yet 
swirls in the financial stream extend far beyond the limits of everyday 
vision.—W. P. W. 
TOMATO G-ROWING. 
[By Mr. E. D. Smitii : read at a meeting of the Shefheld Chrysanthemum Society.] 
Parallel with the advance of the Chrysanthemum the Tomato has 
risen in popular favour. The reason of its popularity is not far to seek. 
It is an easy plant to grow, and the results secured generally compen¬ 
sate tor the time and trouble expended in its cultivation. Not only can 
fruit be secured which is attractive and ornamental in appearance, but 
possessed of highly nutritive qualities, establishing it at once as a most 
important article of diet. 
Viewed commercially from a wide standpoint the cultivation of the 
Tomato has become to be a stupendous industry particularly in the 
United States of America, where, without much trouble and under out¬ 
door conditions, immense crops of fruit are produced, the surplus of 
which by the process known as “ canning ” is distributed in the markets 
of the world. Here, in this country, but chiefly under glass, many 
industrious men succeed in producing profitable crops, which for 
excellence of flavour, beauty of form, and richness of colouring, perhaps 
surpass the outdoor produce of more favoured climates. In fact, there 
are very few lovers of Tomatoes who do not prefer English grown fruit 
to any that reaches here from foreign parts, this being explained when 
we know that fruit that has to travel must be gathered before being ripe, 
consequently the flavour is deficient. 
Raising Tomato Plants. 
As a rule, seedlings form the best plants. For the main crop the 
best time to sow the seed is early in March. Early crops can be had by 
sowing the seed in January, but progress is somewhat slow, and requires 
extra care, heat, and attention. Tomato seed germinates quickly in a 
temperature of 60° to 65°. Sow the seed thinly on the surface of 6-inch 
pots, well drained, and filled firmly to within an inch of the rim with 
light sandy soil and leaf mould. Water gently, allowing the moisture to 
drain away, then scatter the seeds not less than an inch apart, covering 
lightly with soil, gently pressing it level. Darken the pot with glass 
and paper until the seedlings appear, standing or plunging the pots on a 
moist base of cocoa-nut refuse to prevent undue drying of the soil. 
Further watering will not be required until the seedlings appear. Light 
becomes absolutely necessary to Tomatoes immediately the first seed 
leaves protrude above the soil. The best place for them at this stage is 
on a shelf, close to the glass, in a warm structure. In a temperature of 
60° to 65° they will grow rapidly. In a shady position and a confined 
temperature the seedlings lengthen unduly ; instead of being sturdy, 
erect, and showing stem roots, they are flabby and soft. 
When four leaves have been made they are ready to put singly in 
3-inch pots, or several round the edges of larger pots. Sink the seedlings 
in the soil up to the pair of seed leaves. The advantage of having kept 
the little plants sturdy up to this point will be seen in the tendency of 
the young stem to throw out rootlets, especially at the base, also higher 
as the stem strengthens. These additional roots at this period coming 
to the assistance of the plants are of immense advantage in building up 
strong plants, which will produce flowers and set fruit early, continuing 
to do so throughout the season. The Tomato is naturally a soft-wooded 
plant, and growth must to a certain extent be solidified as it is made— 
not as in the case of some plants, first make the growth, to be afterwards 
ripened. This shows the importance of air during every stage of growth. 
Any lack of this important element is at once seen in soft growth, long- 
jointed and weak, but a due amount of it buoyant and free, aided with 
light and heat, will produce good plants. It is no mere assertion to say 
that light, air, and water are of more importance than the nature of the 
soil. The Tomato will flourish in a very small quantity of the latter, 
but of the former it must have no stint. 
Potting the Plants. 
Passing on now a stage further, it will be found that when the 
young plants have strengthened themselves in small or other pots they 
are usually large enough to be transferred to 5-inch pots, from which 
size they are the most conveniently taken for the final potting or plant¬ 
ing out. Drain the pots lightly, and in potting place the plants low 
down as for previous shifts, so that some portion of the stem is again 
buried in fresh soil. The compost for this shift may be fairly rich and 
good, turfy loam being its main constituent. A little bonemeal, at the 
rate of a pound to a bushel of soil, may bo added in preference to 
decayed manure, also a little sand and burnt refuse. Pot firmly, though 
not absolutely hard. Place the plants on a shelf close to the glass in an 
average temperature of 55° to 60°. Both the soil surrounding the roots 
and the fresh compost being moist, there will be no need of watering 
for a day or two if the weather be dull, but if sunny water must be 
given. I find shading to be unnecessary, even if bright sunshine follows 
closely on repotting. Growth will soon be rapid, and care must be taken 
to afford water as required, this often claiming attention twice a day in 
very bright weather. 
Finally Potting or Planting Out. 
As soon as roots are plentifully formed, and the plants are still 
vigorous, they should be moved to their fruiting positions. It is the 
custom of some to defer this until the first bunch of fruit has set, but 
in my opinion it is not the wisest course. Directly Tomatoes become 
root-bound in small pots the main growth extends in a weaker manner, 
the succeeding bunches of bloom also suffering in size and vigour. 
Therefore it is much the best plan to finally pot or plant out before the 
latter conditions are brought about. 
Pots 11 or 12 inches in diameter are the best for fruiting plants ; 
larger or smaller sizes than those are not desirable. When smaller 
enough support cannot be given, while in larger stronger growth is 
made in the course of the season than is wanted. Excessively vigorous 
growth is always liable to be fruitless. Drainage for the fruiting pots 
may consist of a good sized oystershell placed concave side downwards 
over the large central hole in each, placing over this a small handful 
of various sized potsherds, finishing off with a layer of fibrous turf 
picked from the compost or prepared specially. On this, before 
introducing any soil, place the plant turned out from its 5-inch pot. 
The object should be to have the plant as low as possible, because it is 
an error, and would not conduce to good results, if the whole space 
within such large pots was at once filled with soil. Just sufficient ought 
to be added to surround and cover the ball of roots, making it firmer 
than in previous pottings. The limited amount given is ample for a 
time, usually until the first bunch of fruit has set and is swelling, when 
more may be applied. Only a slight top-dressing of a couple of inches 
is given each time. The same kind of compost may be used for the 
final potting or planting out as recommended for the previous potting. 
In planting out Tomatoes the error of giving a root run too wide 
and deep must be avoided. I like to form a border for Tomatoes on a 
hard bottom such as is afforded by a slab or slate stage, with a slight 
fall to the front, so that superfluous water can run quickly away. 
In such a position no drainage is required. The depth of soil at first 
need not be more than 4 inches. The top-dressings subsequently given 
will raise the bulk a little higher during the season. Contract the 
width of the border as well as the depth, 14 inches being a good width. 
The size of plant for placing in fruiting positions is important. When 
turned out of pots larger than 5-inch into a border too much soil 
has to be introduced, as it is obvious the balls of roots must be covered. 
For planting out I prefer plants from 4-inch pots. Quite sufficient 
soil can then be packed round and made firm without overloading. 
Never pot or plant out Tomatoes unless the soil and roots are 
thoroughly moist. The fresh soil also should be in that intermediate 
state of moisture, which gardeners know so well to be neither wet nor 
dry. Surrounded with this friable and sweet material the roots soon 
make progress and take full possession. 
(To be continued.! 
THE ROYAL GARDENERS’ ORPHAN FUND. 
Annual Dinner. 
As briefly announced in our last issue the supporters of the Royal 
Gardeners’ Orphan Fund held their annual dinner at St. James’ Hall, 
Regent Street, W., on Wednesday, April 26th, under the distinguished 
presidency of Baron Ferdinand de Rothschild, M.P. Although but yet 
in its infancy, this excellent charity has made considerable progress 
during the comparatively short period it has been in existence, and as 
on previous similar occasions, the festival was a great success. About 
one hundred gentlemen were present, and amongst others we noticed 
Sir T. Lawrence, Bart., Sir J. T. D. Llewelyn, Bart., Rev. W. Wilks, 
Major Foster, Major Sexeby, Lieutenant Pott, Dr. Walker, H. J. Veitch, 
Esq., N. N. Sherwood, Esq., P. Crowley, Esq., Messrs. T. Manning, A. G. 
Manda, F. Sander, G. J. Ingram, H. B. Milner, H. Turner, H. Williams, 
E. D. Shuttleworth, A. F. Barron (Secretary), J. T. Anderson, J. Assbee, 
H. Balderson, W. Y. Baker, P. Barr, F. Bausfi, G. Bunyard, R. Cannell, 
W. L. Corry, W. W. Cousens, H. J. Cutbush, W. Denning, J. Douglas, 
