404 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 18, 1893, 
miscellaneous plants on sloping banks making a charming display. 
Blended with these were the collections of flowering and foliage plants, 
amongst which the Roses and Pelargoniums, as already remarked, stood 
out conspicuously. The customary exhibits in the corridor were, how¬ 
ever, absent this year, although apart from this there were plenty to 
interest the visitors. It rained heavily at intervals during the day, 
which to a certain extent marred the pleasures usually derived from 
a fine Show, 
WOKK,foktheWEEK. 
lifting and replanting trees in the autumn in some cases acts beneficiallj • 
This method, however, can only be adopted with small and moderate 
sized trees ; those of larger size and long established must be treated to 
plenty of moisture with clear water, then enrich the soil with liquid 
manure. The evil of mildew will thus be struck at its foundation. For 
an insecticide or fungicide that will rid the shoots of mildew after a few 
applications try a solution of 2 ozs. of softsoap in a gallon of water, 
mixing into a paste 2 ozs. of sulphur, adding that, well mixing, and 
syringe the trees. Another good remedy for mildew is sulphide of 
potassium, half an ounce to a gallon of water. Dusting the affected 
parts with dry sulphur is also effectual, first wetting the shoots or foliage 
to cause the sulphur to adhere. In a day or two wash it off again with 
the syringe, repeating if necessary. 
Blistered Beaves.— Though not so common as usual in cold spring 
seasons, any leaves that may be found upon trees curled and malformed 
in appearance should be picked off and burnt. They are chiefly caused 
by sudden changes in the temperature, exposure to cold, dry cutting 
east winds, and a more or less inactive condition of the roots. 
HARDY FRUiT GARDEN. 
Syringing and Watering Wall Trees.— Healthy growth can 
only be secured by constant attention to keeping the foliage clean. 
Against warm dry walls the aridity of the atmosphere is such during the 
present sunny weather that insects soon find the conditions most suitable 
for their increase. If not early attacked with a view to dislodge them 
they not only usurp young stems and leaves as feeding ground, but form 
protective coverings to screen themselves from view. This is especially 
the case with aphides, which curl and pull down the edges of the leaves 
at the leading points of shoots in such an effective manner that it is 
difficult for ordinary syringing to reach the crowded colonies thus 
established. In such cases dipping the infested points in an approved 
insecticide should precede general syringing. Towards the close of mild 
warm days is the best time to syringe, either to cleanse the trees from 
dust or as a preventive of insects, also when applying insecticides. 
When cold cutting winds prevail syringing as a rule is not beneficial, 
and should be discontinued. In order,to cope successfully against insects 
and promote healthful growth the state of all fruit borders must be 
fully ascertained, and moisture if needed afforded to the lowest roots, 
afterwards mulching the surface with manure to conserve it. 
Extirpating: Insects. —At the present time, owing to the continued 
dry weather, this is a very needful and important operation. Green or 
black aphides infest the young shoots of Peaches, Nectarines, Cherries, 
Plums, Gooseberries, and Currants on walls. If not destroyed they soon 
arrest as well as cripple growth. Red spider assails both sides of the 
leaves of Apple trees, also Peaches, while Gooseberries are attacked by 
the larvm not only of the Gooseberry and Currant sawfly but of the 
magpie moth. 
Remedies. — Tobacco Poioder. —Slight effects of aphides may often 
be checked by dredging the infested shoots when damp or wet with 
tobacco powder, but when the shoots attacked are numerous this 
method is too tedious. 
Softsoap and Petroleum Solution. —A solution of softsoap and petro¬ 
leum made in the following manner will soon exterminate aphides, red 
spider. Gooseberry and Currant sawfly, and the caterpillars of the magpie 
and winter moth. Boil 1 lb. of softsoap in half a gallon of water, and 
when thoroughly dissolved add half a pint of petroleum, allowing the 
whole to gently boil or simmer for fifteen minutes, by which time, if 
kept thoroughly stirred, the ingredients will bi well mixed together. 
This mixture is too strong to be used alone. When cool place it in 
bottles, and a handy insecticide will be ready for mixing with water at 
the rate of 1 pint to 4 gallons of water. Keep the mixture well stirred 
and apply with the aid of a spray distributor, by which the solution can 
be distributed equally and without waste over every portion of infested 
trees. 
Paris Green. —This compound, though poisonous and requiring great 
care in using, is nevertheless one of the finest remedies known for 
destroying the small but destructive larvre of the winter codlin, lackey, 
magpie, and umber moths, which annually work havoc with the young 
foliage, the flowers, and often the fruit of Apples, Pears, and Plums. 
During the blossoming period it is unsafe to apply Paris green on account 
of the bees which, visiting the flowers, perform substantial service in 
aiding fertilisation. Now, however, that the flowers have decayed, and 
attacks of the larvEe are imminent, spraying once a fortnight for some 
weeks with Paris green will prove a most effectual remedy. To apply 
it so that it acts destructively to caterpillars or other pests it must be 
distributed in a fine mist-like spray, both on the under and upper 
surfaces of the leaves where it is deposited as a thin film or sediment. 
Through this the young caterpillars have to pierce to find the juicy food 
they seek, but in doing so they imbibe the poison which quickly kills 
them. The proportions of Paris green and water are 1 oz. to 20 gallons 
of water. This is safe fbr tender foliage. Paris green is obtainable 
both as powder and paste ; the latter is the safest and best because it is 
more easily mixed with water. The best instruments for delivering the 
mixtures are either a knapsack pump, a spraying machine, or a spray 
distributor. 
Destroying IMlldew. —Very frequently mildew attacks the young 
shoots of Apples, Peaches, and Nectarines. It is chiefly induced to 
appear when the trees are growing in poor, dry, and exhausted soil. In 
that case little can be done to exterminate it wholly mersly by drersing 
the infested shoots with insscticides. In addition to applying these. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —The sunshine has helped Pine plants to make a sturdy 
growth never perhaps before seen in these at this time of year. Such 
conditions should be fully utilised, as under them the growth in the 
plants may be advanced more expeditiously and with safety, provided 
proper attention be given to the ventilation, which in sunny weather 
should be attended to early in the morning. A genial condition of the 
atmosphere must, however, be maintained by damping all available 
surfaces about the houses whenever they become dry. This is especially 
necessary just before closing time, which should be sufficiently early in 
the afternoon to keep the temperature at 85° to 90° for a considerable 
time afterwards. During dry weather syringing will be required daily, 
regulating it by the condition of the weather, house, and plants. The 
best criterion in the case of the plants is the axils of the leaves, which 
during the growing season should never be allowed to become quite 
dry, because many feeding roots exist round the stems of Pine plants 
which only derive support from the water in the axils of the leaves. 
Care must be taken at this season not to allow any plant to suffer from 
dryness, but afford an adequate supply of water, and in all cases with 
some stimulant such as guano, 1 lb. to 20 gallons of water being a proper 
and safe liquid, always applying it at the same temperature as that of 
the bed in which the pots are plunged. 
The requisite attention must be given to shading; the thinner the 
material is for the purpose the better, as only enough shade is needed 
to prevent the sun scorching the leaves or fruit. Fire heat should be 
dispensed with as much as possible, but it will still be necessary in the 
succession as well as the fruiting houses as the nights are still cold. 
Remove all surplus suckers, leaving one or two on each plant for stock, 
they being best screwed clean out of their sockets with a pair of long 
handled tongs. Maintain a temperature of 70° to 75° by artificial 
means in the fruiting department, and close the house at 90°. Recently 
potted plants should have a liberal supply of bottom heat: 90° to 95° at 
the base of the pots will induce the roots to take hold of the soil quickly, 
and when they reach the sides 80° to 86° will be safer. 
Figs. — Earliest Forced Trees in Pots. —After the first crop is cleared 
from the trees recourse must be had to syringing twice a day, also 
watering copiously at the roots with guano or other form of liquid 
manure. This will enable the trees to make a more vigorous growth, 
and it is essential that the second growth be well nourished and not 
burdened with fruit. If the second crop fruits show very abundantly 
they must be thinned, leaving those at the base of the current year’s 
growth for the crop, and the trees must not be overburdened. Trees 
ripening their fruit should have lessened supplies of water at the roots, 
but still afford sufficient to keep the foliage in good health, and dis¬ 
continue syringing the trees. A circulation of warm air is necessary 
for the colouring process, leaving the top ventilators open a little at 
night, the highest coloured fruit being the best flavoured. 
Planted-out Trees. —The first crop of Figs on the early started trees 
are now giving indications of ripening, and until it is perfected a little 
ventilalion should be allowed constantly at the top of the house, and 
whenever the weather is favourable a free circulation of warm rather 
dry air must be afforded. Cease syringing the trees directly the fruit 
commences to ripen, and avoid a superabundance of moisture about the 
house, but moderate moisture is necessary for the health of the foliage. 
If a good watering is given at that time, and the surface is mulched, 
it will lessen the need of water during the ripening process, but trees 
with only limited space for the roots will need occasional supplies, and 
none must be neglected if necessity arise for its application. Trees 
swelling their fruit will require attention in stopping the young 
shoots at the fifth or sixth leaf, and thinning the strong growing 
shoots to admit light and air to the fruit and wood. Attend to 
syringing the trees daily, and water abundantly at the roots as often as 
required, employing weak liquid manure, especially where the borders 
are small. 
Unlieated Houses. —The trees are showing good crops, and will, with 
favourable weather, afford an acceptable supply of fruit in August and 
September. The roots being confined to narrow and well drained 
borders inside the house, they will require copious supplies of water, 
and the trees will need syringing twice a day in fine weather. In cloudy 
weather the afternoon syringing may be dispensed with, and in bright it 
may te performed early, with all the solar heat that can be shut in to 
insure the proper drying of the foli3ge before nightfall. The young 
