May 18, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
405 
growths should be trained a good distance apart so as to admit light and 
a:r freely to the wood for insuring its ripening well. Avoid close 
stopping, as the results are the production of a number of late growths 
which do not get properly matured before the leaves fall. The best 
course is to secure firm, short-jointed wood. Allow the points of the 
shoots to grow up to the glass, and they will then form abundance of 
embryo Figs ready for swelling in the spring. 
Peaches and Nectarines.— Trees Started at the JTeio Year .— 
When the fruit has stoned the trees may be subjected to a higher 
temperature, but until that is completed they should not be kept in a 
higher temperature than 60° to 65° by artificial means, commencing to 
ventilate at 65°, and not allowing 70° to be exceeded without a free 
circulation of air. Secure the shoots as they advance in growth, leaving 
plenty of room in the ligatures for the shoots to swell properly, and 
remove superfluous growths, retaining no more than can have full 
exposure to light and air. If the shoots are crowded, thin them gradually 
as soon as the stoning is completed. Do not overburden the trees, but 
leave one fruit to each square foot of surface covered by them, 
vigorous trees having the fruit left a little closer. Maintain adequate 
moisture in the house after stoning, water the inside borders copiously, 
and mulch the surface with about an inch thickness of partially spent 
short manure. Outside borders must also be properly attended to in 
watering and mulching. 
If it is desired to accelerate the ripening the night temperature may 
be maintained at 65° to 70°, 70° to 75° by day artificially, and 80° to 85° 
from sun heat, closing early so as to increase to 90° or 95°, In this high 
and moist atmosphere Peaches swell to a great size after stoning. With 
due precaution taken in having the fruit well exposed, raised with its 
spex to the light, it is very imposing in appearance, but scarcely so 
inviting or so well flavoured as that ripened more gradually in less heat 
and moisture, and with freer ventilation. Unless, therefore, the fruit 
is required to be pushed the ripening should be effected in a night 
temperature of 60° to 65°, 65° by day artificially in dull weather, and 
75° with sun heat, closing at the latter with plenty of moisture in the 
house. Ventilate freely when the fruit is ripening, admitting a little 
air constantly. 
Trees Started in Fehrvary. —The fruit is now stoning, and the 
number must be reduced, leaving two on strong shoots, but one only on 
weakly growths. Eetain fruits in all instances best situated for 
exposure to light and air. Thin the shoots where overcrowded, and 
remember that the more light and air the fruit is subjected to from the 
commencement the better will it be in colour and flavour when ripe. 
The temperature may be kept at 55° to 60° at night, 60° to 65° by day 
artificially, ventilating at 65°, fully at 70° to 75°, and closing at the 
latter with plenty of moisture. Assist weakly and full-cropped trees 
with liquid manure, but keep it from trees that are very vigorous, as it 
tends to gross growth, and may prove fatal to the stoning. Syringe the 
trees twice a day, and spare no effort to maintain the foliage in a clean, 
healthy condition. 
Trees Started in March. —The fruit now swelling freely must be 
well thinned, but gradually, leaving two or three of the best placed on 
strong shoots, and proportionately less on weaker growths. Supply 
liquid manure to weakly trees, but top-dress vigorous with phosphatic 
manure, say a sprinkling of dissolved bones, 2 ozs. per square yard, 
occasionally, as they being more prone to cast the fruit in stoning 
should have water only. Eemove all superfluous shoots, tying and 
training the remaining growths to the trellis as they advance. 
Late Houses. —It can now be seen which fruits have most promise, 
therefore the thinning should be carried out promptly, leaving a few 
more only than will be required for the crop to allow for casualties. 
Examine the inside borders at least once a week, giving thorough sup¬ 
plies when necessary, and syringe the trees twice a day, except when 
the nights are likely to be cold. This more particularly applies to 
unheated houses, in which the syringing should be practised early in 
the afternoon or be omitted, for it is essential that the foliage become 
dry before night. Early closing may also be practised with a view to 
husband the sun heat. 
Strawberries In Pots. —The latest plants will now be commencing 
to swell the fruit, and as the stems are usually long the beriies 
should be supported clear of the pots with foiked sticks, pointed at the 
stem end and pushed into the soil, the stem of the truss resting in the 
fork or a little below the fruit. Thin the flowers and the fruits. The 
centre fruit is always the largest, and to encourage these and others 
early thinning must be practised. Grand fruits are obtained in this 
way, seven fruits this year of Auguste Nicaise only being required to 
bring up a pound weight in their favour. Marguerite produces enormous 
fruit, five to a pound having been produced, but it spots seriously 
through its tender skin, and President also is very liable to damp and 
mould when ripening. The plants should have frequent supplies of 
liquid manure for swelling their fruit, giving it from the time the fruit 
commences to swell freely until it changes colour for ripening, 
when clear water, and not too much of it, only the plants must not flag, 
will be more suitable. When ripening the atmosphere must be kept 
rather drier and cooler than when the fruit is swelling, and it will then 
be less liable to spotting, the flavour be higher, and the aroma more 
pronounced. 
THE FLOWEE GAEDEN. 
Commencement of Bedding Out. —The summer-like weather has 
materially shortened the duration of various spring flowering occupants 
of the beds and borders, and will also have the effect of hastening the 
refilling of these latter with the more tender plants prepared for them. 
As far as the state of the ground is concerned, that at the present time 
is warmer and in a better condition for the reception of tender plants 
than is often the case by the middle of June, and all we have to fear are 
cold frosty nights. These may not be noticed this season, but when the 
change comes the chances are frost, and perhaps hailstorms, will follow 
in the wake of heavy rain. There ought, therefore, to be no risks run, 
especially where there are few or no reserve plants to make good any 
losses. It is always a relief to get the bulk of the bedding plants, more 
especially those in pots, into their flowering quarters, and there is no 
apparent reason why the start should not be made at once if precautions 
are taken for protecting them if needed with evergreen branches, blinds, 
or mats. With a good supply of water near at hand the mistake is 
often made of using this far too freely. Enough should certainly be 
given to prevent the plants flagging badly, but the greater part of them, 
and Zonal Pelargoniums in particular, take more quickly to their fresh 
quarters, and are less likely to be injured by frosts when kept a little 
on the dry side at the roots for the first fortnight. 
Tuberous Begonias. —If these are planted out early, provision 
ought certainly to be made for protecting them during cold nights, and 
a light shading during clear hot days would also prove beneficial. These 
plants are not suitable for hot and dry positions, but thrive admirably in 
the more low-lying beds ; or say, where Zonal Pelargoniums usually 
grow too strongly and flower indifferently. The most exposed beds can, 
however, be made suitable for them. What they require is a fairly deep, 
well worked root run, plenty of decayed manure being forked in. Failing 
the latter use leaf soil. In addition they will also require to be freely 
mulched, this being done directly after planting. Old Mushroom bed 
refuse, leaf soil, and cocoa-nut fibre refuse are all variously used as a 
mulch, and answer well. Never crowd Tuberous Begonias, the best 
effect being produced by keeping the plants just clear of each other, the 
handsome foliage then showing off the fine flowers to advantage. Strong 
plants from tubers raised last season will give the best results, and these 
may be not less than 15 inches apart each way, while the strongest of 
those raised this season, and which can be moved out of boxes or frames 
with a good ball of soil about the roots, may be arranged 12 inches 
apart. A pretty effect is produced and an economy of plants be 
effected by disposing the Begonias another 3 inches farther apart, and 
carpeting over the intervening spaces with either Mesembryanthemum 
cordifolium variegatum or Sedum glaucum, these cool trailing plants 
also obviating the necessity for mulching the beds. Dwarf Lobelias are 
suitable for mixing among or edging Begonias, while if really imposing 
effects are desired fill large beds principally viith Begonias, dotting 
Gannas, variegated Maize, Acacia lophantha, standard Fuchsias, Palms, 
Draemnas, and such like thinly among them. The erect flowering 
varieties are the best for bedding out; while those with drooping 
flowers are very effective when fringing raised beds and in vases, 
always providing they are kept well supplied with moisture. 
Other IVIolsture-lovlngr Plants. —Violas are next to useless for 
hot and dry positions. They ought to be put out early, being given the 
benefit also of a well-manured root run. If variegated Zonal Pelargo¬ 
niums of any kind are dotted freely among Violas the effect is pleasing, 
and there will be no blanks very observable even if the latter do fail in 
August. Shrubby Calceolarias are also unsuitable for hot and dry 
positions, and should have the sites well prepared for them. See that 
they are in a thoroughly moist state at the roots when moved, and they 
must not flag through want of water at any time. Polemonium 
coeruleum variegatum is quite a moisture-loving plant, and very effective 
too when properly treated. Verbenas, to succeed well, should have 
deeply dug, well manured sites, a mulch of some kind not being wasted 
on them. If clean, healthy young plants are planted on this well pre¬ 
pared ground they will flower grandly and attract, because not often seen 
in good condition. Fuchsias will not long grow and flower freely unless 
given the benefit of a rich root run and plenty of moisture. Dahlias also 
like plenty of manure and moisture. 
Plants for Brier Sites. — Zonal Pelargoniums are the most 
effective in fairly good soil and open positions. Heliotropes, Ageratums, 
Iresines, Coleuses, Golden Pyre'hrum, Lobelias, and the various annuals 
raised under glass, all thrive well in a medium soil, and the bulk of 
them will stand drought fairly well after they are once well established. 
Petunias are suitable for quite the driest beds, and Marguerites may be 
associated with them advantageously. Dwarf Nasturtiums, if grown on 
rather poor soil and given good room, are remarkably showy, and stand 
both wet and dry weather well. If the beds are in a very dry state 
when they are to be filled give them a good watering a few hours in 
advance of planting, and the work can then be done easily and 
properly. 
Bate Raised Plants. —When boxes or pots are scarce or space 
limited many of the late raised plants are frequently kept very close 
together much longer than is good for them, and unless something is 
done to obviate this they plant out badly. Pots and boxes being 
liberated owing to the hardier or earlier raised plants being put out in 
the beds, these might well be refilled with those raised later. Especially 
ought Iresines and Coleuses, now crowded in cutting pots or pans, to 
be placed singly or in pairs in small pots, and if kept in gentle heat 
till the end of the first week in June, they will have grown considerably 
and be well rooted. Being duly hardened off they will be ready for the 
spaces left for them in another week, the extra trouble being amply 
compensated for almost from the first. It is not yet too late to root 
more tops of Ireeines, Coleuses, and Alternantheras, and this should be 
done if more plants are wanted. 
