May 25 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
425 
state with coarse rakes and hoes if need be. This will serve to keep the 
ground in a moist state, and admit of seeds being sown and plants put 
out in dry hot weather. Especially ought the spaces betw'een newly dug 
Celery trenches to be raked over, and then Lettuce can be planted, or, 
better still, seed be sown at fortnightly intervals where the plants are to 
heart in. Ground from which Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, and Borecole 
have been cleared is usually well adapted for Celery culture, and no 
time should be lost in preparing the rest of the trenches. When this 
work is deterred to near the time the plants are ready to put out, there 
is a likelihood of the latter being spoilt owing to press of other work 
delaying their being transplanted, whereas, if the trenches are ready for 
them, advantage can be taken of a showery time to get them out quickly 
and well. 
Rain fell very opportunely for the Potatoes. These have come up 
very strongly and evenly, and the first proceeding should be to hoe ; 
that is to say, loosen the soil rather deeply between the rows, this having 
the effect of breaking clods, letting in warmth and moisture to the roots, 
and destroying weeds. Many of the early and second early varieties 
have grown so rapidly as to be forward enough for moulding up, while 
the very earliest that could not be moulded up during the dry weather, 
owing to the lumpy state of the ground, are really too forward to be 
interfered with now, and are best left as they are. Better run the risk 
of the uppermost tubers greening than injure either the haulm or 
spreading roots by hoeing among them. 
Brussels Sprouts, autumn Broccoli, and Cauliflowers should be 
planted among dwarf early Potatoes directly these have been moulded 
up, but it is only where the rows are not less than 3 feet apart that this 
ought ever to be done. Slugs have had a bad time of it lately, but will 
have made it plain they are not all dead ere this. Frequent surface 
hoeings among advancing crops serve to prevent the increase of slugs, 
also proving beneficial otherwise, and crops that are most preyed on 
should have soot and lime dusted among and over them as often as rains 
wash these fertilising slug-destroying substances away. 
Onions.— Where the seed was sown rather early there are fairly 
good rows of plants to be seen, but in many instances the Onions present 
anything but a satisfactory appearance. Most probably much of the 
seed that has hitherto failed will germinate after the rains, and the beds 
should not be hastily condemned accordingly. It is always a mistake to 
delay thinning-out till the plants are too large to draw readily, and this 
season there is all the more necessity to thin early, in order that the 
thinnings may be replanted where there are gaps to be filled up, or fresh 
rows may also be formed. Do not thin severely unless extra fine 
“ bulbs ” are desired. Supposing the rows are nearly or quite 12 inches 
apart, leave the plants from 3 to 4 inches asunder ; and if they eventually 
press against each other so much the better, medium-sized solid roots 
being the most serviceable, also keeping best. Allow another 2 inches or 
rather more if extra fine Onions are wanted. Replant the thinnings 
1 inch below the surface, spreading out the roots carefully, and fixing 
the soil firmly about them. If dry weather prevails water occasionally 
till they are growing afresh. Liberal surfacings of soot hoed-in during 
showery weather acts as a preventive of grub attacks, and hastens the 
growth of the Onions considerably ; so also do light surfacings of nitrate 
of soda, or that and superphosphate of lime and kainit at the rate of one 
part of the former to two parts of each of the latter. 
Carrots. —The Carrot seed again has germinated badly ; but most 
probably much that has previously missed is now showing life, and the 
beds, in any case, should not be hastily hoed over and sown afresh. It 
is not, however, advisable to delay sowing afresh more than a fortnight 
after rainfall, and it will most probably be found that late-sown 
breadths will give better results than has hitherto attended early 
sowing. The ground being in a moist, warm state, germination and 
after growth will be unusually rapid and strong, and if seed of Nantes 
Horn, Model, or other medium-sized or stump-rooted sorts, sown now, 
even in cold localities, will grow to their full size by the autumn, and 
keep quite as well or better than larger roots, and which also are the 
least appreciated in the kitchen. In warmer localities the Intermediate 
and long-rooted forms may also be sown with the certainty that they 
will be quite large enough for storing in the autumn. The drills for 
the smaller varieties should be drawn 9 inches apart, 1 foot being 
enough for the rest. Thin the former lightly, or according as the roots 
are required for use, and the stronger growers may be left about 
5 inches apart in the row. Left thus thickly the roots will not be 
nearly so coarse nor so liable to crack badly as when allowed another 
3 inches or more. 
Parsnips. —These have come up better than expected, and as a rule 
are quite ready for thinning out. Very large roots of Parsnips do not 
keep well, and are a mistake in other respects, unless wanted for exhi¬ 
bition purposes. Instead of thinning to nearly or quite 15 inches asunder, 
those who are anxious to grow the most serviceable class of roots should 
leave the plants 9 inches apart. Some of the thinnings may be dibbled 
out where there are blanks, this being done more for the sake of 
appearance than utility, as the roots thus obtained are usually much 
forked. 
Turnips.— Early sowings in the open failed badly, but those in 
frames succeeded admirably. Those who have been fortunate in 
obtaining a good plant should thin out the Early Milan and Early 
Munich rather lightly, leaving them say not more than 4 inches apart, 
and if drawing for use commences when the roots are not much larger 
than round Radishes the rest will soon attain a larger size. Snowball or 
other successional varieties do not thicken at the roots well if left closely 
together, and these, therefore, should be early thinned to about 9 inches 
apart. Seeing that the variety last named and Veitch’s Red Globe are 
much superior in point of quality to the early strap-leaved form it is 
these that ought now to be principally sown, a few short rows of Early 
Milan being included if a quick supply of roots are desired. Cool, 
moderately rich borders are the best positions for these sowings, the 
drills for the larger forms being drawn 15 inches apart. Slugs, flea, and 
such-like can be kept off' by means of frequent dusting over with soot 
and lime. 
Spinach. —If this must be had during July and August sow the 
seed thinly, in drills 1 foot asunder, on the coolest borders. The New 
Zealand Spinach is a fairly good substitute for the ordinary or true 
Spinach, and this revels in heat and sunshine. If plants have been 
raised singly in small pots, turn them out on to a warm border in 
succession to early Potatoes, disposing them not less than 3 feet apart 
each away. Seed may yet be sown in pinches where the plants are to 
grow eventually, leaving three to each patch. Where the tops are 
plentiful it is these that should be gathered and used as required. 
Tomatoes. —The time has arrived for planting these out against 
sunny walls, fences, temporary wooden screens, or eve a in sunny 
quarters clear of wall shelter. In the three first instances the plants 
should be given good room, 12 inches apart answering for the compact 
growers, such as Conference, Challenger, Dwarf Champion, and Open 
Air; but Perfection, Sensation, and other vigorous forms should have 
another 3 inches. They may be either trained upright, or if the spaces 
between fruit trees are utilised, oblique training can be resorted to if 
need be. Give each plant the benefit of a good shovelful of fresh loam 
and manure, starvation treatment not being wise, though the other 
extreme is even more objectionable. See that the plants are in a moist 
state at the roots when turned out of the pots, and they ought not to 
become very dry for the next fortnight, the first bunch of flowers 
failing to set fruit when the old ball of soil and roots become dust dry 
before fresh roots have spread out into the fresh ground. Therefore 
plant deep enough to form a basin about the stems of the plants, and 
water every third or fourth day. Those planted quite in the open to be 
not less than 2 feet asunder each way, and these should be at once 
fastened to strong stakes. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Caladlums. —Plants that it is intended to grow for conservatory or 
other forms of decoration in intermediate structures should be placed at 
once into larger pots. After the plants have started rooting freely in 
the new soil give them more air, so that firm sturdy growths will follow. 
Full sunshine may also be admitted to these plants. When grown 
under close, moist, and shady conditions their foliage falls directly the 
plants are placed in cooler and more airy quarters—in fact, they are 
practically useless for many forms of decoration. 
Actalmenes. —More cuttings may be inserted in 5-inch pots ; these 
root quickly if placed in a moist shady position for a week or ten days, 
or in the propagating frame. The plants from which cuttings have been 
obtained should then be allowed to grow or to develop their tubers for 
another year. When once these are again fairly started into growth 
weak stimulants should be given them, or else they will grow weakly. 
Plants rooted some time ago and now in pots should be supported by 
four or five small stakes and one or two pieces of matting. 
Folnsettlas. — Do not keep plants growing in too close and 
warm a structure, or else they will draw up weakly and soon become 
leggy. They should occupy an intermediate temperature, and air 
should be given liberally when fine, which will result in sturdy growth. 
Young plants that need repotting ought to be attended to from time to 
time, and the soil should be pressed firmly into the pots ; loose potting 
is a great mistake and only encourages soft rapid growth. These plants 
do well in fibry loam, one-seventh of manure and sand. 
Euphorbias. — Cuttings of E. jacquiniaefolia should now be 
plentiful, and will root freely if they have been prepared by thorough 
hardening in a cool airy house for the last fortnight. The young shoots 
should be taken off just where they are emitted from the old stem with 
a sharp knife, and if inserted in sandy soil and covered with a bell- 
glass, shaded from the sun, and kept in a close warm house, the majority 
will root. If the cuttings have been produced in brisk heat and are 
then inserted nearly every one will fail. Once sufficient young stock 
has been raised the old plants, if needed, may be cut back and allowed 
to start from the base. 
Asparagus plumosus nanus. — Large or fair sized plants that 
display a tendency to form crowns may be divided into small pieces. 
The plants soon become established and are useful for various decorative 
purposes. Cuttings of A, plumosus and tenuissimus root freely. If 
portions of the stem with a leaf attached are inserted in sandy soil, in 
small pots, and stood under handlights in a warm house, every one will 
root, and by winter make useful decorative plants in small pots. Where 
larger plants are needed repot those that have become too large in 
4 and 6-inch pots. 
Crotons. —Good heads that were taken off some time ago and are 
well established in 5 and 6-inch pots may be placed into larger before 
they become unduly crowded with roots; give each plant rocm to 
develop itself so that they do not become one-sided. Side shoots may 
now be taken from stock plants and rooted ; these root freely in hand- 
lights in heat, if shaded from the sun, and will make good plants for 
many forms of decoration by autumn. Narrow-leaved kinds are very 
useful in a small state for table decoration, and these may be rooted in 
quantity, and when placed into 4 or 5-inch pots should he grown on a 
