June 22, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
611 
and tepid ; then the fruit will not be deteriorated, otherwise the fruit 
may be discoloured and acquire a musty flavour. 
Trees Swelling their Crops. —A mulching of short manure will act 
as a source of nourishment, uniform moisture in the border, favouring 
surface roots, which in an active state can be fed with top-dressings of 
phosphatic and potassic manures to any extent without unduly exciting 
growth. A handful per square yard of five parts dissolved bones, two 
parts powdered saltpetre, and three parts ground gypsum, mixed, will 
assist Figs to mature heavy crops of fruit and make sturdy, healthy, 
fruitful wood. Syringe twice a day in fine weather, always early in the 
afternoon, closing the house at the same time, and so as to gain enough 
sun heat to rise to 90° or 100. The fruit will then swell to a good size, 
and rest being insured at night by allowing the temperature to fall 
to a safe minimum the trees will be capable of performing a long 
day’s work. 
Late Houses. —Trees against walls covered with glass often grow 
rampantly, and root-pruning affords little better results as regards fruit, 
because the trees are too far from the glass. In such it is better to allow 
them to grow up with one or more stems to the roof and then train the 
growths to a trellis about 1 foot from the glass and down the slope. 
The sun then shines into the points of the shoots and they push Figs at 
nearly every joint. Keep the growths thin, stop at the fifth leaf, that is, 
side growths, and mulch and water the borders. Ventilate early, and 
utilise sun heat by early closing, feeding according to the requirements. 
The trees will ripen one full crop in August, and the second crop Figs 
being removed and the shoots allowed to grow up to the light so as to 
get their points well ripened, a full crop may be relied on another 
year. 
Young Trees in Pots for Early Forcing. — These must now be in 
the pots in which they are to fruit and on no account be neglected. 
Afford all the light possible, and keep the trees well syringed and 
supplied with liquid manure so as to insure a clean, sturdy, well- 
nourished growth. When that is complete they should have abundant 
ventilation so as to ripen it thoroughly. Stopping must not be practised 
after this date. When the growth is matured the trees may be placed 
outdoors in a sunny place, but in dull and wet weather means should 
be at command for warding off heavy rains. 
Vines, — Early forced Vines. —When the Grapes have been cut the 
Vines must be syringed and, if necessary, apply an insecticide. The 
syringing should be repeated occasionally so as to preserve the old foliage 
as long as possible, and encourage a moderate extension of the laterals, 
especially in the case of weakly Vines and those long subjected to early 
forcing. Ventilate to the fullest extent day and night, but it is not 
desirable to remove the roof lights unless they can readily be replaced 
in case of heavy rains. This is particularly essential where it is intended 
to lift the Vines and lay the roots in fresh compost, as a wet soil is not 
favourable to the Vines for lifting. 
Grapes Colouring. —Those changing colour will require plenty of 
air, with the needful warmth—70° to 75° by artificial means, affording 
them rest at night by allowing the temperature to fall to 60°. A thorough 
supply of water to the border and a mulch of short sweet material, say 
an inch or two of stable litter freed of the coarser strawy portion, will 
lessen the need of water. A moderate moist atmosphere must still be 
afforded by damping occasionally, and it will not do any harm to the 
Grapes provided air is admitted so as to prevent its deposition on the 
berries. Muscats must not lack water at the roots, and it will not 
prejudice the Grapes if air is freely admitted. 
Late Houses. —Examine the bunches for the last time in thinning, 
removing any superfluous and stoneless berries, and taking out those in 
the centres of the clusters, allowing rather more room between the 
berries than for midseason Grapes. High and dry borders require large 
quantities of water and liberal top-dressings of artificial manures, with 
a light mulch to keep the surface uniformly moist, but avoid thick 
coatings of wet manure. With supplies of nourishment at the roots 
and damping surfaces at closing time red spider will not appear. Keep 
the Vines free from gross laterals, not allowing a large quantity of 
growth to be made, which must afterwards be removed. Leave a little 
air on at night at the top of the house, and increase it early in the 
morning, but allow a rise to 80° to 85°, closing so as to run up to 90° or 
95°, with abundant atmospheric moisture in the afternoon. Fire heat 
will only be necessary to maintain a night temperature of 60° to 65°, 
and 70° to 75° by day, ventilating in dull weather so as to insure a 
change of air at least once in twenty-four hours. 
Young Vines. —Syringe copiously early in the afternoon of fine days 
and close so as to husband the sun’s heat, mulching the border to keep 
the surface moist, affording water or liquid manure when necessary. 
Stop laterals to one leaf, then the sub-laterals may be allowed to extend 
on permanent Vines, but on supernumeraries the canes should be stopped 
when about 9 feet in length, the laterals at the first ileaf, and the sub¬ 
laterals to one joint as made, keeping them clear of the principal or 
cane leaves. The latter must be kept clear and allowed to die off 
naturally, so that the buds at their base may be well formed and 
nourished. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Tomatoes. —Already those planted against sunny walls and fences 
as well as in the open ground have made excellent progress, the first 
clusters of fruit being set on all that have been kept moist at the roots. 
Where the flowers that open first fail to set it is evidently due to 
neglect, the old hall of soil and roots being allowed to become dust dry 
during the first fortnight after planting. Still keep them uniformly 
moist at the root®, and if a mulch < f short manure or leaf soil is given 
this will lessen the need for watering se often. Training the plant® 
should not be deferred till the stems become too stout and brittle to 
stand being straightened, nor ought any superfluous growth to remain 
on them to such a time as to need cutting away. Pinch out all side 
shoots as fast as they form, the exception to this rule being when there 
is room for one or more leading growths to be laid in a foot apart, 
enough being saved at the first pinching to meet the case. Plants con¬ 
fined to a single stem or otherwise may be laid in either uprightly or 
obliquely, according to the head room, and if the fastening back or 
tying to stakes is done once a week there will be no breaking down of 
stems or branches. 
Early Potatoes. —Owing to the excessive heat and long drought 
early Potatoes are maturing more quickly than is desirable, the crops 
being light accordingly. This, as far as Ashleafs and other extra early 
varieties are concerned, is an advantage. After drought has once caused 
a check to tuber growth, a change to wet weather, or even a moderate 
amount of rain on a single day, will start them “ growing out,” the 
former also being most probably a precursor of disease. In anticipation 
of this either lift the crops or draw the haulm before the latter is actually 
ripe. When the haulm falls about the rows constantly the tubers are 
quite fit for lifting and storing. By standing on the rows the haulm 
can be drawn without disturbing the crop underneath. 
SaTlngr Potatoes for Seed. — Short-topped, quick-maturing 
varieties of Potatoes ought always to be extensively grown in private 
gardens, and would be far more than they usually are if only enough 
tubers were available at planting time. The initial mistake is in using 
the early varieties too closely every season. This summer there will 
be less need for doing this owing to the second early varieties being 
also ready for use. Try some of these latter, and if appreciated save 
the earlier varieties for seed purposes. Supposing these latter have 
ceased growing lifting may be commenced at once. Sort over the 
crop, saving all the medium-sized tubers for storing thinly in a cool 
light shed or room, the rest being used. Avoid any attempt at 
greening the seed tubers in the open, as this may invite an attack of 
disease. 
Crops to Succeed Potatoes. —According as Potatoes are lifted 
the space between the rows should also be loosened with a fork, all 
clods being broken, and the surface generally left in a finely divided 
level sta^e. It will then be easily made ready for any succeeding crop, 
and moisture also, to a certain extent, prevented being drawn out. 
Good successional crops to Potatoes on early borders are Strawberries, 
Carrots for drawing young, late Kidney Beans, Lettuce, and Endive. 
In the open quarters Strawberries, late Peas, Broccoli, Borecole, Savoys, 
Coleworts, Leeks, Endive, winter Spinach, and Turnips might all be 
put out in succession to early and second early Potatoes. For either 
Strawberries, or any member of the Brassica family, the ground should 
be well trampled, and if very dry drills may be opened and soaked with 
water prior to planting. It is useless to sow seeds on dry ground 
during the summer, but if the drills opened for them are well moistened 
before they are sown germination will soon take place. 
Cabbages and Coleworts — The former present a very poor 
appearance, especially on unfertile soils, and if planted on the level or 
not moulded up it is a difficult matter to supply them with the requisite 
moisture at the roots. Any late planted should have a good soaking 
of water, after which the soil may well be drawn up to them from each 
side. In the furrows thus formed between the rows pour water or 
liquid manure, notably sewage, rather freely, and a rapid growth of 
Cabbages will be the result. There is every likelihood of green 
vegetables being scarce next winter owing to the loss of Broccoli, 
Borecole, and Savoy plants from attacks of the Turnip flea, and a good 
supply of Coleworts would be very acceptable. Sow seed of the Rosette, 
Shilling’s Queen, Little Pixie, or other preferred varieties, and later on 
put in the plants thickly wherever room can be found for them. 
Toung Carrots. —There is always a demand for these, and if seed 
is sown now of any of the stump-rooted varieties as well as what may be 
left of Intermediates, it will most likely be the means of providing a 
long supply of tender young roots throughout the autumn and early 
winter. Grubs are the worst enemy to this crop, and after drills have 
been opened 9 inches apart on fine light ground and duly watered sow 
wood ashes thinly with the seed. 
Xiate Peas. —A few late dishes are quite as much appreciated as 
very early ones, and if room can be spared an attempt should be made 
to grow some. Ne Plus Ultra, Omega, Latest of All, and Veitchs 
Perfection are among the best for present sowing, the first-named being 
the favourite late variety. If 6-feet spaces are left between Celery 
trenches these suit late Peas surprisingly well, and they will also thrive 
admirably on freely manured deeply dug ground if kept moist at the 
roots during the first few weeks. Avoid low ground, as it is there where 
early frosts do the most damage. Open rather deep drills, well soak 
with water, and cover the seed with not less than 2 inches of soil. Peas 
that are already sown and up should be kept regularly moist at the 
roots, or mildew and other evils will quickly put in an appearance. 
Such crops ought to have thorough soakings every few days, dribblets 
being simply thrown away ; also mulch heavily with strawy manure. 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
Herb & Wulle, Naples. — Flower Bulbs, Roots, and Terrestrial 
Orchids. 
Ant. Roozen & Son, Overveen, Haarlem.— Dutch and Cape Bulbs, 
