June 29, 1893. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
525 
-cases. The principal winners in the local classes were Messrs. Wigan 
and Twining. 
Groups of plants were numerous and good, albeit of a somewhat 
stereotyped character. Mr. H. E. Fordham was first, and may be com¬ 
plimented on the taste in arrangement displayed. Mr. Finch, gardener 
to W. Marriott, Esq., had in his praiseworthy desire to avoid over- 
colouring gone to the other extreme, but managed to secure the second 
prize. Mr. W. J. Brown was third, and Mr. H. James fourth, both 
groups being overloaded. There were other good groups in competition 
for the special prizes, as well as others not for competition, so that on 
the w^hole they formed a considerable feature. Palms and specimen 
plants were excellent. Mr. Finch was first in the principal class, and a 
grand Croton Queen Victoria, very large and well coloured, was amongst 
his plants, all of which were good, Mr, Debnam, gardener to A. Pears, 
Esq., was second ; and Mr. Mould, third ; the former having an excellent 
Alocasia metallica and Maranta zebrina. Mr. Finch also won with 
specimen plants in bloom, his Ericas being noble plants, and Phoenocoma 
prolifera Barnesi in splendid condition. Mr. Mould was second, and 
Mr, Parsons third. Mr. Want and Mr. Wilks (gardener to T. Cave, Esq.) 
were the principal exhibitors of Ferns. 
Pelargoniums were not large, but very clean and well bloomed. Mr. 
Turner won with both Shows and Fancies. Mr. Watts, gardener to 
H. Little, Esq., was first with Zonals; Mr. Coombs, gardener to 
W. Furze, Esq., second ; and Mr. F. Barnes, gardener to W. Grahame, 
Esq., third. They were fairly good throughout, but Ivy-leaved were 
only moderate, and a second prize was awarded to Mr. Watts. Mr. 
Howard, grower to H, Little, Esq., won with six Orchids, Mr. Young, 
grower to F. Wigan, Esq., following. Mr, Howard had some excellent 
pieces. Mr. Want, gardener to F. Wigan, Esq., had some grand 
Caladiums, and was deservedly placed first; while Mr. Coombs won 
with Coleuses, Mr. Parsons, gardener to T. Twining, Esq., following. 
Messrs. Sutton’s prices for Gloxinias brought out some well-bloomed 
plants, but they appeared to have been subjected to wind or otherwise 
shaken. 
Fruit was not very abundant, but there were several noteworthy 
•exhibits. Mr. Osman, Ottershaw Park Gardens, had excellent Grapes 
and other produce in the leading class, and defeated Mr. Sage, gardener 
to Earl Dysart, somewhat easily, the latter being weak in Grapes. Mr. 
Osman won still more decisively with black Grapes, his clusters of Black 
Hamburghs being very fine. Mr. Ford, gardener to W. H. Ellis, Esq., 
was second, and Mr. Springthorpe, gardener to W. A. Bevan, Esq, 
third. Mr. Ford had his revenge with whites, winning from Mr. 
Osman with large bunches of Foster’s Seedling. Mr. Wilkins, gardener 
to Lady Theodore Guest, third. In other Grape classes Messrs. 
C. W. Knowles, Sage, Parsons, Burton, and Wilks secured the prizes. 
Mr. Parsons won with Strawberries; Mr. Simmonds, gardener to 
W. Cunard, Esq., with Peaches, Nectarines and Tomatoes; and Mr. 
Wilks with Melons. 
The special prizes for vegetables brought out some splendid produce. 
Mr. Wilkins showed extremely well for Messrs. Sutton’s prizes, and 
received the principal award, the second going to Mr. Waite, gardener 
to Colonel Talbot, and the third to Mr. J. Smith, gardener to W. H. 
Odium, Esq. Space does not admit of particulars. In the competition 
for Messrs. Carter’s prizes the result, so far as the two principal awards 
are concerned, was the same, Mr. Wilkins and Mr. Waite having a good 
fight for the first place, which fell to the former. Mr. Higginson, gar¬ 
dener to General Vialls, was third. Mr. Waite secured the first of the 
Society’s prizes for a collection, and in another similar class Mr. Sage 
was successful. 
Messrs. James Veitch & Sons sent a beautiful group of Lilium longi- 
florum surrounded by Aralias and Eurya latifolia variegata, not for 
competition. Messrs. J. Laing & Son had a delightful display of stove 
and greenhouse plants, with many fine Begonias. Mr. Chas. Turner 
contributed a collection of splendid Malmaison and Germania Carna¬ 
tions, which were greatly admired. Messrs. Peed & Son had a bright 
and tastefully arranged group of indoor foliage and flowering plants, 
Mr. William Iceton a large group of Palms and foliage plants, Messrs. 
Hugh Low & Co. a very attractive collection of choice Orchids, 
Messrs. Cutbush & Co. a cheerful and varied display of hardy flowers, 
Messrs. H. Cannell & Sons some beautiful Begonias tastefully arranged, 
and Messrs. G. Jackman & Son several good stands of Roses. 
WOKK.fo^.theWEEK. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Moistening- Fruit Tree Borders.— It is important that the 
borders in which Peaches, Nectarines, Apricots, and other fruit trees are 
growing be kept sufficiently moist during the critical period of fruit 
development and growth extension. In applying moisture the full 
extent of the roots both downwards and laterally must be reached. 
During hot weather it is not only the sun which abstracts moisture from 
tlie soil, but the foliage by extra evaporation from its surfaces makes 
greater demands upon the roots. If the latter cannot supply the needful 
support the foliage suffers, becoming a prey quickly to red spider and 
other pests. Well drained borders and those formed on light soils suffer 
the most. Even with the mulch deposited some time ago on the 
surface, with probably a good watering at or near that time, the 
extended dry weather will have created a demand for more moisture, 
especially now the fruit is swelling. If the borders have a smooth 
surface this will require loosening to allow the water to percolate easily. 
A fork carefully used will effect this without injuring the fibres. Do 
not give cold hard water until it has been softened and exposed to the 
weather. If obtainable, rain water is best. One good application, 
reaching the full extent of roots, is better than driblets supplied at 
short intervals. 
Feeding Fruit Trees. —It is wasteful and injurious to apply 
fertilisers to fruit trees if the borders or soil occupied with the roots 
should be dry. Therefore, before applying liquid or artificial stimulant 
contrive to have the soil moistened. Weakly and heavily cropped trees 
may then be fed with advantage, the assistance thus given aiding the 
growth of the wood and fruit. Follow with a mulch of partly decayed 
manure to prevent rapid evaporation. Subsequent waterings and heavy 
rains will carry the virtues in the manure down to the roots. _ Some of 
the many excellent chemical manures advertised may be applied bene¬ 
ficially now to trees swelling their crops. 
Syringing Wall Trees. —To keep the trees clean syringing ought 
to be done frequently in dry, warm weather, daily if possible, com¬ 
mencing about 4 P.M. at this season. Early morning syringiiig in very 
hot weather is beneficial ; especially where wall trees are situated in 
the neighbourhood of tall trees, bushes, or shrubberies is syringing 
necessary, and forcible applications reaching both sides of the leaves 
will keep red spider at bay. Young shoots of Cherries and Plums are 
in many places badly infested at the points with aphides. These ought 
previously to be dipped in a solution strong enough to kill the pests. 
Softsoap at the rate of half a pound of soap dissolved in four gallons of 
water with a pint of tobacco water added is safe. 
Cherries. —Many varieties of Cherries are now either ripe or fast 
approaching that condition. To protect the fruit on large trees from 
birds is a difficult matter ; but wall trees can be easily protected with 
nets hung in front from the top of the wall, keeping them clear of 
the foliage and fruit. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —Starting Svckrrs .—The necessary provision for starting the 
suckers, which will soon be fit to be taken from the plants that formed 
the early section of summer fruiters, should be made at once. A fer¬ 
menting bed in a low damp house or pit affords the most genial conditions 
for the suckers, and the heat in it may be 95° at the start, but it is safer 
to have a steady temperature of about 90° at 6 inches from the 
surface. The suckers should be divided into two sizes, have the ends 
pared smooth with a sharp knife, and a few of the small leaves removed 
from the base, but only as high up as there are roots with a brown tint 
issuing from the stem at their axils. Place the suckers at once in 5 or 
7-inch pots according to their size, and the soil being moist no water 
should be given until roots are made, but if the compost be rather dry 
water once to settle the soil about them. Good fibrous loam torn up by 
hand, with a quart of soot to each bushel, is the most suitable compost, 
draining the pots efficiently, and sprinkling a little soot on the crocks 
to prevent the ingress of worms. The compost should be firmly 
embedded in the pots and about the suckers, which will tend to a speedy 
fibry root-action, sturdier and more satisfactory growth in the plants. 
The house or pit should be kept rather close and moist for a -week or 
ten days, shading effectually and giving but little air, and sprinkling 
the plants through a fine syringe once or twice a day according to 
external influences. Directly growth takes place gradually give more 
ventilation with less shade. 
Potting the Plants .—Where the suckers are well rooted they must 
be shifted into the pots in which they are to fruit, so as to accelerate 
the growth as far as is consistent with sturdiness and a well-developed 
base. Ten-inch pots are quite large enough for Queens, Enville, and 
Black Jamaica, and 11-inch or 12-inch are ample for Providence and 
other strong growing varieties. Fibrous loam, but more lumpy than 
for suckers, with a 10-inch potful each of wood ashes and bonemeal to 
3 bushels of the loam, grow Pines well, and to prevent worms entering 
the pots a little fresh soot or wood ashes may be sprinkled on a thin 
layer of turf placed over the drainage. Keep the plants well down in 
the pots, ram the soil firmly, and allow sufficient space for holding water. 
Melons. —Houses and Pits Cleared of Fruit .—As there is still time 
to secure a second crop or put out sturdy plants to afford a late supply 
of fruit, prompt decision must be made as to which it is to be. If the 
plants are healthy they may be reserved for another crop, in which case 
it is an advantage if young growths have been encouraged from the base 
of the plants in the latter stages of the first crop, and in some cases a 
good set of fruit will have been secured in these whilst the structures 
were kept drier for the fruit ripening. The old growths under such 
circumstances should be gradually cut away, reserving the most pro¬ 
mising, and any wounds that bleed should be dried with quickhm^ 
Remove a little of the surface soil and supply some lumpy loam. Soak 
with tepid water, and follow at once with liquid manure. If kept 
moist, but not saturated, the roots will soon spread in the loam, then 
they may be further encouraged by a mulching of horse droppings 
collected, spread in a shed and turned over two or three times before 
using, and it is best to supply a little of the mulch and often rather 
than ’a heavy coat all at once. Thin the fruits to half a dozen, or 
apportion the number to each plant according to the vigour. Second 
