18 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
[ July 7, 1832. 
WOKK/rct’rcrcWEEK.. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Raspberries. —The increase of a large number of suckers round the 
old stools is most detrimental to the well-being of the plants. In most 
cases more suckers are annually produced than can possibly be required, 
many growing thickly together in masses near the base of the fruiting 
canes, others at some distance away. The best of those situated 
close to the main stools or rows of plants select for preservation, 
choosing those that are strong. Draw out all weaker growths, as, being 
not only useless but shading and robbing the others of nutriment, they 
prove injurious to the future welfare of the permanent plants. Four to 
six are the most that need be retained round each stake, but where Rasp¬ 
berries are grown in rows the suckers required to produce the future 
bearing canes must be secured at the most convenient places for readily 
tying at the proper time to the trellis or wires. In addition to removing 
superfluous suckers root out all coarse weeds which may have established 
themselves. The mulching of manure applied in spring is often the 
means of introducing the seeds of undesirable weeds. If so, and they 
have now become apparent, hoe them down at once, preferably on a hot 
sunny morning, when they will soon wither. The ground being clear of 
weeds, and probably little left of former mulchings of manure except 
strawy materia], it is advisable to apply another coating of rich manure, 
as the active enlargement of the fruit, the expansion of the foliage, and 
thickening of the young stems, results in great demands on the soil 
resources both in nutriment and moisture. In light soils the demands 
of the plants may not be thoroughly met without recourse to watering, 
but if water be applied it must be given liberally, and previous to a 
heavy mulching, to retain moisture by preventing evaporation. 
Gathering: Strawberries. —Under the influence of favourable 
weather Strawberries ripen quickly, and when due provision has been 
made to preserve the fruit from the attacks of slugs, grubs, and birds the 
work of daily picking the ripest fruit is a pleasant task. It is much 
better to do this, securing all the forwardest fruits, than to leave the 
whole until a plethora of ripe and too ripe fruit demands instant 
attention. Not only do Strawberries ripen quickly, but they spoil 
quickly after the ripening point is reached. In moist weather the 
tendency to decay often shows itself before the fruits are fully coloured, 
because, the pulp being so soft and absorbent of moisture, the outer 
tissues of the fruits are soon injured. This is more apparent on thickly 
growing beds of Strawberries than on those more rationally managed. 
Old plants, too, not being so vigorous and lacking adequate nutrition, 
are very liable to suffer from untoward influences if not carefully 
managed at fruiting time. The best time of the day for gathering ripe 
Strawberries is undoubtedly early morning when the dew has evaporated. 
To have the best examples in the finest condition each fruit should be 
carefully detached with a portion of stalk. For immediate use or where 
appearances are not considered a more rough and ready style of gather¬ 
ing can be adopted. Strawberries required for preserving must be 
gathered in a dry condition. It is not desirable to have large quantities 
of fruit in bulk for a longer time than necessary, as fermentation soon 
sets in, decomposition following to the utter ruin of the fruit. By 
spreading the fruits out thinly, keeping them dry and cool, they remain 
fresh and perfect much longer. Those gathered wet or over-ripe suffer 
sooner than examples collected in the best possible condition. 
Propagating 1 Strawberries.— Frequent attention to the selection 
and expeditious rooting of the best plantlets on strong runners is necessary 
just now. For the earliest crops and for forcing purposes plants 
secured early by rooting runners in small pots are the best, as no check 
is received when transferred to the permanent beds or fruiting pots. 
Three-inch pots filled with rich soil are plunged in the ground near 
strong runners having plantlets with rootlets just visible ; these are 
fastened to the surface with a wooden or wire peg, or even a stone. 
The latter is not objectionable because it affords a little shade to the 
so l in hot weather. When required only for planting in the open 
ground squares or cubes of turf of a handy size thoroughly well soaked 
before using with water or liquid manure, prove very useful for rooting 
plants with little trouble save that of keeping the turf moist. Thick, 
bulky squares of cocoa-nut matting have been used in a similar manner 
with good results. A little small flaky manure scattered in among the 
fibres of the matting would induce the roots to spread. Stop all the 
runners beyond the rooting medium, one p'antlet only to each wire 
being retained when intended for pot culture or very early planting. 
Only those rooted in pots should be used for pot cultivation. Hundreds 
of good, well-rooted plants can be secured without resorting to these 
forwarding aids by simply leaving the runners alone to root of their own 
accord, thinning out the weakest early. These cannot be depended 
upon to fruit freely the first year. Moderately stiff retentive soils 
usually produce good plants in this manner. They can be dug up with 
abundant ^roots and soil adhering for planting at once. A careful weed¬ 
ing out of the weakest runners and those not wanted contributes to the 
success of those retained whatever method of propagation is followed. 
Currants and Gooseberries.— If not already done, shorten back 
to two or three pairs of leaves the current growths on the main branches 
of Red and White Currants. This will admit light and air to the 
ripening fruit, and swell up the buds at the base for fruit-producing 
another year. Gooseberries can be treated in the same way, aud should 
be attended to at once if this system is followed, though judicious 
thinning out, retaining a fair quantity of young wood without shortening 
is a profitable method of management, and produces good crops. Retain 
a sufficient number of strong growths or suckers in Black Currants,, 
leaving them at full length for future bearing. Weak or useless wood’, 
or any older branches not fruiting, or which have fruited, cut out 
now to make room for younger growth. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. — Starting Suckers. —The early section of summer fruiting 
plants have fruited rather later than usual, but they have suckers which 
will soon be fit to be taken, and to receive these the necessary provision 
must be made at once, so that they may have the benefit of the Bun’s 
warmth in developing growth for as long a time as possible. A ferment¬ 
ing bed in a low damp house or pit should be provided, and its heat 
steady at 90° at 6 inches from the surface, but 95" may be allowed at the 
start, and that must not be exceeded. Take the suckers from the parent 
plants carefully, trim the base smooth, and place directly into 5 to 7-inch- 
pots, according to the size of the suckers, and water once in order to 
settle the soil about them. Good fibrous loam torn up by hand without 
any admixture is the most suitable compost; embed it firmly in the pot, 
so that a sturdy growth will be induced in the plants. Keep the suckeis 
rather close and shaded for a week or ten days, sprinkling through a fine- 
rose syringe once or twice a day according to external influences. When 
growth takes place more ventilation with less shade is desirable, but this 
must be proceedei with gradually until the growth is well decided and 
inured to the sun, then accord them ordinary treatment. 
Placing in Fruiting Pots. — When the suckers are well rooted 
they should be transferred to the largest pots before the roots become 
matted together. Queens and Black Jamaica should be given 10-inch 
pots, other sorts 11 or 12-inch, using fibrous loam, but more lumpy than 
for suckers, adding a sprinkling of steamed bone meal ; and to prevent 
worms entering the pots a handful of soot or wood ashes from small 
twigs may be sprinkled over the drainage. Pot firmly, and accelerate 
growth as far as is consistent with a sturdy habit. 
Cucumbers.— A few seeds may now be sown for late summer and 
early autumn produce. The plants from this sowing will afford much 
finer fruit in late summer than plants that have been bearing for a 
considerable time, as old plants generally produce knobbed (seeded)* 
fruits towards the end of the season, and are neither so handsome nor 
useful as straight seedless fruits. The plants will be fit to plant out in 
a month, and succeed admirably in frames with a gentle bottom heat, 
such as may be afforded by the least reduced materials from spent 
hotbeds, mixed with a little rather fresh, but not raw, stable litter. It 
is desirable to have the bed 18 inches to 2 feet high, so that linings can 
be given in late summer and early autumn so as to have fruit up to a 
late period. 
Plants in Full Bearing. —These must have attention in thinning 
exhausted growths,removing bad leaves, stopping, tying, and regulating, 
so as to keep up a succession of bearing wood. Add a little fresh soil 
to the surface of the bed from time to time, and a light mulching of 
sweetened horse or cow manure, the latter dried and broken up. If the 
plants grow weakly, sprinkle a little superphosphate on the surface and 
wash in. Syringe at closing time, and maintain a good moisture all 
day by damping the floors and other surfaces in the morning, noon, an-d 
early in the evening. Avoid too much moisture in dull weather, as iis 
makes the growths soft and the foliage more susceptible of injury on a 
bright period ensuing. After a few days of dull, moist weather it ia 
desirable to shade, and keep the house rather close on the return of 
bright days. Supply liquid manure copiously once or twice a week, but 
it will not benefit plants poorly furnished with roots and sparse foliage: 
What such need is fresh soil or surface dressings of lumpy material. 
Close early, say at 85°, and so as to gain 5° to 10°, and only employ fire- 
heat to prevent the temperature falling below 60° at night. The plants, 
especially young, must not be overcropped, and the fruit should be cat 
as soon as ready for use, as if allowed to remain they exhaust the plants, 
and prevent, in a great measure, a good and continuous supply ; but 
that is greatly influenced by maintaining a succession of young 
growths. 
Melons. — Late Plants. — It is important that the late plants be- 
placed out at once, especially where the means of affording artificial 
heat is confined to fermenting materials. Whether grown in pits or 
frames a sufficiency of fermenting materials should be used to raise a 
bottom heat of about 90° to start the plants quickly. 
In Houses. —When the crops are cleared, the plants if exhausted, 
should be removed, and preparations made for a fresh start at the 
earliest opportunity, but if the plants are in good health it is sheer folly 
to root them out, as they will come into bearing again much sooner than 
young plants, and are in every way more tractable; indeed, if the 
plants are not overcropped, do not suffer from insufficient water at the 
roots, and the foliage is kept healthful, they will continue bearing as 
late as is desired. When the crop is cut the plants should be divested 
of most of the old or damaged leaves, fresh growths being encouraged 
in the place of any exhausted, which should be cut away. Loosen the 
surface of the bed, remove some of the soil, apply a couple of inches 
