26 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 14, 1892. 
THE WATERING OF PLANTS. 
[A paper read before the members of the Liverpool Horticultural Association by Mr. B. 
Cromwell, gardener to T. Sutton Timmis, Esq., Oleveley, Allerton.] 
Plants, whether rooted in the soil, floating in the water, or 
suspended in the atmosphere, are dependent upon air, moisture, 
heat, and light for their perfect development. We all know that 
water is on6 of the chief necessaries of life, and one essential for 
the activity of all living agents in animal and vegetable life. By 
its application to plants it increases and quickens their vitality, and 
enables them by means of certain organs to absorb and assimilate 
food consisting of elements necessary for their growth and increase. 
A most important condition for healthy plant growth is a perfectly 
aerated soil. Porosity in a soil always tends to the oxidation of 
organic nitrogen, converting the insoluble and unseen substances 
into soluble, and easily assimilated or digestive food. 
Heat is another prime factor acting on the soil, hence plant 
growth is much more energetic in a greenhouse, where the degrees 
of warmth and moisture can be better regulated, than in the open 
garden. The cultivator must remember that the conditions in a 
stove or greenhouse are artificial, and these are some facts which 
every gardener ought to understand perfectly, but which are, 
nevertheless, often misunderstood. The most important point to 
be remembered is, that warm air takes up much more moisture 
than cold air does, and hence the liability of plants to be dried and 
scorched on a very cold frosty night by what we call fire heat. 
The heated air from the pipes dries the plants, and it is dried in 
turn by contact with the cold glass, which robs it of its moisture, 
the cold glass acting as a condenser. I mention these facts as having 
a very important bearing on the watering of plants in pots, and 
affording atmospheric moisture when it is necessary to increase the 
temperature by fire heat. To counteract the drying tendency of 
extra fire heat we sprinkle the floors and stages of the houses with 
manifest advantage. 
I am of opinion that firm potting has very much to commend 
itself in connection with the watering of plants. When a firmly 
potted plant requires moisture the water when applied gradually 
passes through the soil ; the plant will then not show signs of 
distress so readily as one in looser soil, through which the water 
rushes almost as fast as it is poured in. The soil is left loose 
in order that the roots may penetrate it freely. They may do 
so by rambling through it, and become long and fibreless ; but 
matted fibry roots are the most satisfactory, and these are only 
produced in firm soil. The leading roots have to fight their way 
through such soil, this causing them to produce innumerable fibres, 
which are the life of the plant. I am of opinion that the more 
difficult a plant is to grow the more important it becomes to have 
it established in firm soil. The result of potting an Azalea, Heath, 
or any other plant having very fine hair-like roots in loose soil is 
usually disastrous through the constant watering needed, and the 
water passing through so quickly often washes the soil into the 
drainage, thus rendering the whole of the compost in the pots sour. 
I may say that the benefits of firm soil are confined to no class of 
plants, but apply to kitchen garden crops, plants in pots, also Vine 
and fruit tree borders. Due care must be exercised to find out the 
true condition of the soil, and if a plant requires water twice or 
thrice one day, that is no reason why it should need as many 
applications every day. A change in the atmosphere, the amount 
of moisture, or the growth of a plant may determine the necessity 
of a greater or less supply. If there should be any doubt about a 
plant requiring water, I have invariably found that the best and 
safest course to follow is to allow the plant to become slightly 
drier than at previous waterings, and by watching closely the effect 
this little variation has on the appearance of a plant a useful lesson 
will be learned and a guide to future applications acquired, for so 
changing and varied are the conditions under which watering has 
to be conducted, that even experts—men of long practice—must be 
students to be generally successful. 
When once the soil becomes thoroughly dry no ordinary 
watering will rectify the mistake ; even with three or four 
applications, the water will pass through the pot without wetting 
the soil in the centre. The only perfect way of watering over-dry 
plants is to plunge them over the rims in a bucket or tank of 
water, and allow them to remain for an hour or more. The water 
then moistens the whole of the soil, and there is no difficulty in 
watering in the ordinary way afterwards. While mentioning the 
fact of plants becoming excessively dry during the period of 
growth, it occurs to me that we are sometimes led to make 
mistakes in watering by a practice which is not uncommon to most 
of us—viz., top-dressing plants. Probably this might be carried 
out much more extensively than at present, but whether it is a 
good plan, except in a few particular cases, is an open question. 
There is, I think, this objection to top-dressing, when the surface 
soil is removed from over and amongst the top roots, and new soil 
added in its place, it is somewhat difficult to ascertain the true 
condition of the lower part of the ball with regard to moisture. 
The old soil will dry sooner than the new, or vice verad , much 
depending on the nature of the plant, the state of its roots, the 
mechanical condition of the old and new soil, and on the density of 
both. Under such circumstances judicious watering becomes a 
difficult matter, even in the most careful and experienced hands. 
I think perhaps an occasional dressing of some artificial manure 
would be preferable where it becomes necessary to keep plants for 
a long time in small pots. 
HOEING versus MULCHING. 
Under the above heading “ E. H. M.” takes an opportunity to 
criticise a brief note of mine which appeared in the Journal for June 
lGth (page 455), under the heading of mulching. In the concluding 
lines of that note I said that “ without incessant watering or heavy 
mulching it is impossible to obtain satisfactory crops from light shallow 
soils in dry hot summers.” I repeat and emphasise that statement here, 
and in doing so I may say that no man sets a greater value on the good 
resulting from the frequent stirring of the soil between the young crops 
of Onions, Carrots, Parsnips, Cabbages, and others with the Dutch hoe 
than I do ; and I have frequently advocated the practice in the horti¬ 
cultural press, as the stirring of the soil from 1 to 2 inches deep between 
the rows, according as the soil is heavy or light, not only destroys weeds, 
but at the same time accelerates growth in the crops. 
“ E. H. M.” is anxious to know whether gardeners in general agree 
with what I have said in favour of mulching. He says, “ For my own 
part I must say that I have greater faith in the constant use of the hoe.” 
That being so, I will ask your correspondent whether he ever mulches his 
rows of Peas and Beans or wall fruit trees, and if so, for what purpose ? 
Should he pay me a visit—and the journey is not, 1 think, a long one—I 
can show him rows of Peas which were heavily mulched as soon as they 
were planted out, earthed up, and staked, and from which we have been 
gathering good supplies of large well filled pods of Carter’s Telegraph, 
Anticipation, and Sutton’s Royal Jubilee, the first mentioned variety, 
since the middle of June, our previous gatherings having been obtained 
from earlier varieties. The plants are in fine condition, the haulms 
vigorous and heavily laden with produce, which is admired by all 
gardeners and others visiting here. 
Anyone having a light and shallow soil can very easily test the 
matter for himself by sowing a few rows of Peas and Beans, half of 
which should be mulched and the other half not. using the Dutch hoe 
along each side “ constantly ” instead, as recommended by “ E. H. M.,” 
and note the results, which 1 fearlessly assert will be immensely 
in favour of mulching ; the produce will not only be finer and of 
better quality, but also will be of longer duration. I have not 
in the smallest degree exaggerated the efficacy of mulching crops of 
Peas and Beans, Tomatoes, and fruit trees growing in “ light shallow 
soils in dry hot summers.” “ E. H. M.” says in the concluding lines 
of his note that, “ it may be impossible for me to obtain satisfactory 
crops under the conditions which I specified,” adding, “ but it is not to 
others.” I may remind him that perhaps what he looks upon as being 
satisfactory crops might be considered unsatisfactory by some others 
of the craft.—H. W. W. 
In reply to “ E. H. M.’s” inquiry on page 494 of the Journal, 
I for one do not believe in the mulching of growing crops of vegetables, 
but prefer the free, yet careful, use of the hoe as often as required, 
so as to keep the surface crust broken. This admits air to the soil, 
and thus stimulates and encourages root action and consequently a 
free growth. Certainly permanent fruit plantations, such as Straw¬ 
berries, Raspberries, and other small fruit, also pyramid Apple, 
Pear, and other trees are better mulched early, to supply food to the 
trees, and also to encourage the production of roots near the surface. 
But whoever has tried the two ways named on the growing crops 
in the gardens under his charge, and who has taken the trouble 
to observe and carefully note the different results from each plan 
on such vegetables as Carrots, Onions, and the Brassica family, in 
fact all annual growing crops, also bedding plants, cannot but admit 
that the free use of the hoe to lighten the soil is valuable in encouraging 
growth. One can almost see some vegetables grow after the application 
of the hoe amongst them ; and if it were more freely used amongst 
Carrots and Onions at the proper time we should hear less of the Onion 
fly and Carrot grub. Many gardeners have the will to do these things 
at the proper time, but unfortunately they have not enough men at 
hand to keep pace with the work in the busy time, and consequently the 
success they so much desire is partly lost through no fault of their own. 
My advice is, Mulch fruit trees early, and apply the hoe as often as 
possible amongst all vegetables.— John Chinnery. 
A « CLIMBING ” SALYIA. 
You have on two occasions given me information respecting 
horticultural shows, and now I venture to trouble you again, as I wish 
if possible to obtain seed of a scarlet flowered “climbing” Salvia. Some 
twenty years ago I was employed in a gentleman’s garden in Hunting¬ 
donshire, in which was an old-fashioned conservatory. Planted against 
the back wall, and trained partly over the roof, was a scarlet flowering 
