42 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 14, 1892. 
ripen the wood and the bads. If the laterals have been allowed to 
extend with a view of thickening the cane, they must be brought back 
gradually by cutting away part at a time, reducing each by degrees to 
one leaf. The Vines should be kept free from insects, syringing occa¬ 
sionally if red spider appear, for it is important that the leaves should 
perform their functions. When the wood becomes brown and hard 
place the Vines on a board or slates in front of a south wall, securing 
the canes to its surface to prevent the foliage being damaged by wind. 
Alford water only to prevent the leaves flagging ; cut away the laterals 
close to the cane, and in a few days shorten the cane to the length 
required. The principal leaves must not be injured, but left to die off 
naturally. The best varieties for early forcing are White Frontignan, 
Foster’s Seedling, Black Hamburgh, and Madresfield Court. Later 
plants should be encouraged to perfect a good growth, keeping them 
clean, also exposed to all the light and sun possible. They must not be 
over-watered, nor neglected for due supplies of water or liquid manure. 
Cut-backs are much the best for early forcing, as the Vines make an 
earlier and sturdier growth, and perfect it Booner than others. This is 
important, for the Vines have more rest, and start with greater 
regularity. 
Early Forced Planted-out Vines.—It is not desirable to force Vines 
year after year to ripen their crops before May or June, and houses 
which are started in December or at the new year to afford ripe fruit at 
the times mentioned are best planted with varieties that ripen together, 
the houses being of sufficient size only to fcdmit of a supply of Crapes 
for the establishment for a period of not more than six to eight weeks. 
That is as long as black Grapes will hangon the Vines under a June and 
July Bun without turning red, or white Grapes keep from becoming 
brown on the exposed side of the bunches, even when a slight shade is 
afforded from buii. Such an arrangement admits of the foliage being 
cleansed with water from a syringe or engine, but in a house planted 
with White Frontignan, Foster’s Seedling, Buckland Sweetwater (not 
satisfactory when continuously early forced), Mill Hill Hamburgh, 
Black Hamburgh, and Madresfield Court, to ripen their crops in May, 
Muscat of Alexandria in June, and GrosColman with Trebbiano in July, 
the warm and comparatively dry atmosphere, consequent on the con¬ 
stant ventilation essential to ripen the fruit of the early varieties, causes 
red spider to increase upon the foliage of the Muscats and other late 
sorts before they are ripe, whilst the foliage of the early varieties is 
almost all gone by the time the late sorts have the Grapes fit for table. 
This is most disastrous to present and future crops of Grapes, indeed 
mixed collections of Grapes are not satisfactory. It is far better to 
divide a large house into two or three compartments, so that the respective 
kinds may have their proper treatment. Early Vines that ripened their 
crops in May or early June will soon be cleared of Grapes. They should 
then be thoroughly cleansed, employing an insecticide if necessary, and 
the foliage preserved in health as long as practicable by occasional 
syringing, removal of the roof lights in showery weather, full ventilation 
constantly, and due supplies of water or liquid manure at the roots. 
Muscats Ripening .—Unless the season is exceptionally fine and the 
Vines started early Muscats require fire heat to insure their perfect 
maturation, even when ripening at the hottest part of the year. The 
time taken by Muscats to ripen iB never less than eight or nine weeks 
from commencing to colour, and if the Grapes are extra fine and t he 
Vines vigorous perfect finish is not generally had under three months. 
They require time and assistance from fire heat, so as to secure a night 
temperature of 70° to 75°, 85° to !)0° by day, with abundance of air 
A rather dry atmosphere is essential to the attainment of that golden 
hue characteristic of rich and full Muscat flavour. This is secured by 
free ventilation, a little constantly, but the atmosphere must not become 
arid, damping down occasionally. In large houses the moisture arising 
from the borders is enough, except in hot weather, then the available 
surfaces in the house should be damped daily. Too much atmospheric 
moisture is fatal to Muscats when ripening, causing them to “spot,” 
therefore it is necessary to have a gentle warmth in the hot-water pipes, 
and a little air constantly to prevent the deposition of moisture on the 
berries. Abundant supplies of water must be given at the roots, for 
when there is a deficiency of moisture the Grapes shrivel. With the 
borders properly constructed and the drainage thorough too much water 
can hardly be given at the roots after the leaves are lull Bizcd until the 
Grapes are well advanced in ripening. Needless waterings, however, are 
baneful, and dribblets—mere damping of the surface—very ineffective, 
doing quite as much harm as good. 
Young Vines .—Those planted this season should, provided they are to 
be cut back to the bottom of trellis,or to two or three buds at the winter 
pruning, be allowed to grow unchecked, so as to secure a good root 
formation and sturdy stems. Any Vines intended for next year’s 
fruiting should have the laterals issuing from the side of the buds to 
which they are to be shortened, stopped to one leal, and the principal 
leaves kept free of growths. If permanent Vines the cane need not be 
stopped until it has grown to the top of the house, shortening it at the 
winter pruning to three good buds from the bottom of the rafter or 
trellis, and only allowing each Vine to bear a bunch of Grapes in the 
second year to prove the variety. Hupcrnumeraries intended for next 
year’s bearing should be stopped at a length of 7 or 8 feet, pinching the 
laterals to one leaf, and sub-laterals in like manner. These should be 
shortened in September, and by degrees cut away close to the cane, and 
in a fortnight afterwards the Vines should be pruned to the first plump 
bud below the first stopping, leaving the old leaves to die off naturally. 
Thorough ripening of the wood is important, a free circulation of air 
being necessary, with fire heat if the weather be cold and wet. 
Melons.— Stopping and Removing Growths. — The plants grow 
rapidly when the weather is moist and warm, and should be gone over 
once a week at least, and in the case of vigorous plants twice, for 
stopping and removal of superfluous shoots, the principal leaves being 
fully exposed to light. Overcrowding is the greatest evil in Melon 
culture, because the excessive foliage must be thinned, and its removal 
results in exudation from the wounds, gangrene sets in, and the affected 
parts perish through “ wet rot ” (bacteria and bacillus growths). To- 
arrest these antiseptics must be used. The safest is quicklime, rubbing 
it well into the affected partB, and repeating as necessary. But the 
worst effect of removing a large quantity of growth is giving a check to 
the fruit, not unfrequently causing it to cease swelling, and it becomes 
hard in the flesh. Fungoid germs fasten upon the exudation, and the 
fruit decays when it should ripen. These disasters are generally 
preventible by attending to the thinning and stopping of the growths. 
Therefore, when the fruit is set and has swelled to the size of an egg, the 
laterals should be pinched to one leaf, and if this results in too much 
foliage, so that the leaves upon the primary shoots are crowded or 
shaded by them, thinning must be resorted to, removing a little at a. 
Watering. —This is very important in Melon culture. If the plants 
are kept too dry a check has been given which will cause them to 
collapse before the fruit is fully developed, and that ripens prematurely. 
The great point is not to allow flagging at any time, and yet not to give 
water until the soil is getting rather dry, when a thorough supply should 
be given. PlantB with a large extent of rooting space need water or 
liquid manure once a week, those with lessened rooting areas twice a 
week, and those in pots or boxes once or twice a day. Regard must be 
had to the weather and the actual needs of the plants. W hen setting 
and ripening it will be sufficient to just keep the foliage from flagging, 
and if watering is necessary it should be given without wetting the 
surface more than can be avoided. 
Damping and Syringing.— At the time of setting and ripening 
moisture must not be entirely withheld from the atmosphere, but avail¬ 
able surfaces may be damped in the morning and early afternoon, or 
occasionally only in not very bright weather. When the blossoms are 
about expanding withhold water from the foliage, and when the fruit is 
ripenim'it must not be wetted nor a close moist atmosphere kept, as 
those are fatal to flavour, and often the cause of the fruit cracking. 
With the fruit swelling syringe well at closing time, and if morning 
syrimdng is practised it should be done early, but the liberal damping 
of available surfaces is better than wetting the foliage. Plants in frames 
should be sprinkled overhead at closing time, being careful to keep the 
water from the neck or collar of the plants. 
Temperature. —In most cases fire heat is not now required, as with 
due regard to early closing the night temperature may Ire kept from 
falling below 65°. In dull periods, however, a little fire heat may be 
desirable to maintain a buoyant atmosphere when the fruit is setting or 
ripenim' Plants in frames at those times are better for linings, so as 
to allow of a circulation of air, otherwise the temperature wiU be ruled 
by external conditions, yet it ought to be maintained at bo at night 
and 70° to 75° by day. . . . .. 
Ventilating. —It is a good plan to leave a little air on at night in all 
cases, and increase it early in the morning of fine days when the 
temperature has advanced to 75°, and gradually increase it with the 
rising heat, keeping through the day at 80 to 90 , iand closing 
sufficiently early to rise to 95° or 100 , and before nightfall admit a 
crack of air at the top of the house. When the fruit is ripening admit 
air freely, also when setting, leaving a little on constantly to prevent 
the deposition of moisture on the fruit or blossoms through the night. 
Routine. —Put supports to the fruit before they get heavy, letting 
the board slant so as not to hold water. Place slates beneath the fruits 
of plants in frames, raising them as the Melons advance in swelling on 
inverted flower pots above the foliage. After a period of dull weather 
it is desirable to afford a slight shade for a few hours in the hottest part 
of the day to prevent the foliage flagging and tender fruit from ->ei g 
scorched. A slight shade is useful over fruit in the ripening stage when 
it is exposed directly to the sun, especially when the plants do not, from 
indifferent vigour, supply moisture to the fruit ™y> 
Insects. —lilack aphis sometimes becomes troublesome. The best 
remedy is fumigation with tobacco paper on two or three consecutive 
evenings, taking care to have the foliage dry and to deliver the smoke 
cool Avoid an overdose, and mat up frames to keep in the smoke. 
The Lethorion Vapour Cone kills red spider, even mealy bug and 
« unfixed” scale without any damage to the tenderest foliage, but thewi- 
pests never ought to be present in well managed Melon houses or framcB. 
Thrips yield to tobaccS smoke. Canker is caused by damp in many 
cases but it is inherent in some varieties. It is averted by a ^rmr 
atmosphere or freer ventilation, and rubbing quicklime into the affected 
parts until dry, repeating if necessary. By those means the plants can 
generally be kept alive until the crop is perfected. 
THE KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Asparagus.— Where at all exposed to gales of wind the strong 
growths of Asparagus are liable to be blown down and Q ol ^ h “^t£S 
at the junction with the roots or badly fractured. In either case their 
function, viz., forming strong buds, is ^tly mtfi and m » 
conseouence the young shoots next season will not be neatly so targe as 
S°J wou°“otherwi«! have been. Tho.e planted widely apart, whether 
nn the level or in rawed beds, are the most likely to be damaged, an 
these, at any rate, ought to be supported by stakes. Hand-weeding 
