44 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 14, 1892. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
A second swarm issued from a Punic stock five days after 
the first one, and took along with it perhaps a score of queens, 
being about a tenth of what were in the parent stock. These 
surplus queens of the second swarm distributed themselves 
freely amongst my other stocks, and I picked out about a 
dozen queens after from it. I then sprayed the bees well with 
thin syrup till they were well gorged, and with an iron spoon, 
and sometimes in handfuls in front of some half dozen Carniolan 
nuclei, and not a bee was killed. The queens that took refuge 
in other hives, with one exception, were all killed by the bees. 
The one in which the queen was preserved had a royal cell of 
its own, and, in addition to the one Punic retained, two others 
were killed. It is a valuable lesson to all bee-keepers. 
To Prevent After Swarms. 
I have for many years taught and practised this system. 
Some of your readers will remember my recorded experience 
some eight years ago with Cyprians. Punics, Cyprians, and 
Syrians raise an excessive number of queens, and so do other 
varieties, but not to the same extent. Still all after swarms 
of any and every variety have at times an excess of queens, 
and all are alike liable to enter other hives. Sometimes they 
are killed, while at others they are allowed to live, and in 
one case it was not thrown out of the hive for several months 
after. Then, again, whether the hive has queen cells only, or 
a regnant queen, with the hive partly full of bees and combs, 
a swarm will issue, to the great annoyance of the bee-keeper. 
Suck erratic movements have occurred frequently in my apiary. 
Returning After Casts. 
Do not suppose that the returning of after swarms immediately 
after they have been secured, or allowing them to stand close to 
the parent hive till next morning, and uniting the swarm to it, 
will stop swarming. It may please a novice, but in most cases 
the hive will send off one or more swarms. Bees jealously 
guard their royal cells, and when this is going on detachments 
are formed, which create the frenzy characteristic of bees at 
swarming time, and swarm they will, weather permitting, while 
queen cells or queens are in the hive. The bee-keeper who 
does not take the necessary steps to remove surplus queen cells 
at the proper time will be the loser. When all is going well 
the eighth day after the issue of the first swarm is a good time, 
but it is better a day or two earlier, as it will make things 
more sure. With frame hives the bee-keeper should not resort 
to returning swarms on the primitive straw skep style. 
Destroying the Cells. 
This is much quicker and more satisfactorily done than watch¬ 
ing for after swarms, hiving them often with great difficulty, then 
uniting them with the chance of their taking wing, as they often 
do when shaken, and if successful swarm again after all the 
labour. 
Self Hivers. 
These, so far as I have ascertained, are unsatisfactory. The 
whole swarm does not join with the queen ; besides, the drones are 
worried to death, giving the bees much labour in their vain 
endeavour to carry them through the perforated zinc, which also 
hinders the bees greatly in getting out and into the hive. If self 
hives are to do what is claimed for them they must be made so 
that the queen and bees will be intercepted in their natural 
retreat—that is, under the alighting board. A box serving as that 
must take its place, having wide grooves on the top to allow the 
queen and drones to pass. When returning the bees will follow, j 
when the box may be removed, and bees placed in a hive on the I 
site of the old stock. The entrance to the stock hive should be 
fitted with a cottage gardener’s bee trap the full width of the 
entrance, regulated so that bees can enter the hive on their return 
from the fields, but to prevent the queen or drones over this box 
or landing board a cage of queen excluder zinc must be placed, 
showing a large surface so as not to hinder bee3 more than is 
necessary. But, after all, artificial swarming will not give a tithe 
of the trouble, time, and expense self hivers will, and will be far 
more satisfactory. 
Queens by Post. 
In common with many others I was highly pleased to see that 
“ A Hallamshire Bee-keeper ” has managed to get the Postmaster 
to make concessions in the transmission of queens by post, 
managing what nearly every prominent bee-keeper in this country 
had failed to get. It was only after great labour that the 
Americans succeeded. 
I could scarcely believe that any gentleman in England 
cognisant of that fact would from mere personal feeling attempt 
to deprive bee-keepers of the privilege, at the same time pretend¬ 
ing friendship to them. As we prove the purity of metals by 
modicums, so do we judge and prove men by their little or 
petty tricks. I trust bee-keepers will be able to recognise their 
true friends in the future by their past conduct.—A Lanark¬ 
shire Bee-keeper. 
^^All correspondence should be directed either to “ The 
Editor” or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to 
Dr. Hogg or members of the staff often remain unopened 
unavoidably. We request that no one will write privately 
to any of our correspondents, as doing so subjects them to 
unjustifiable trouble and expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions 
relating to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should 
never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended fpr insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications 
The Rating- of IVIartet Gardens (G. W. J ).—The point you 
raise is one on which a lawyer should be consulted, and we shall be 
glad if you will let us know the purport of his reply. 
Herbaceous Plants (R.).—Lilies and other bulbous plants are 
herbaceous, as are all plants which die down in the winter and grow 
again in the spring or summer. Strictly speaking, herbaceous plants 
are those perennials which are the reverse of woody. 
Stopping Young Vines (T. &).— You must not stop the young 
rods now. Let them grow as much as possible this summer. They will, 
however, require cutting back during the winter, when pruning the 
Vines ; but if you write again giving full particulars of their condition 
then we shall be pleased to advise you further. 
Woodlice in Mushroom Bed (./. W., Armley ).—Procure some 
old dirty decayed boards, place them face to face in pairs, lay them on 
the bed and by the side of it, and cover them with litter. Woodlice 
love to lurk between the boards, and if these are examined occasionally 
the numbers of the enemy will soon be thinned. For the other insects 
mix 2 ozs. of salt in a gallon of tepid water, and apply it to the beds. If 
these methods do not answer to your satisfaction write again. 
Red Spider on Cucumbers ( Yorlt ).—When badly infested with 
red spider Cucumbers seldom recover their normal health. Perhaps you 
would do best by pulling them out and making a fresh start with strong 
young plants. These would fruit freely in the autumn in a heated 
house. Still, if you wish to give the old plants a chance cut off the 
worst leaves and syringe the remaining ones with a solution of softsoap 
at the rate of 2 ozs. of soap to a gallon of water, or any of the insecti¬ 
cides advertised in this Journal, taking care to wet the under side of the 
foliage. After applying the insecticide syringe vigorously with clean 
tepid water. Top-dress the roots with fresh soil, and maintain a moist 
warm atmosphere to induce fresh growth. 
Repotting Eucharis (F. C .~).—Early spring is the best time to 
divide and repot large plants of Eucharis, although it may be done at 
