66 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 21, 1892. 
subdued as soon as seen, and not allowed to obstruct light and air 
passing through the trees. The chief pruning standard trees require is 
to keep the wood thinly disposed over the whole tree, inducing every 
shoot to grow outwards, and none whatever to travel into the centre, 
where they destroy their own fruit-bearing powers. It i3 quite rational 
to remove obstructing branches of this kind now and not wait until 
winter time. Dead wood can also be better seen now. No shortening 
of young shoots is necessary for standard trees. The thin disposal of 
their branches induces fruitfulness. Currants and Gooseberries should 
have the young growth freely thinned, gross shoots being early removed, 
as their vigour occasions them to be robbers. The removal of super¬ 
fluous wood accelerates the swelling and ripening, as well as improves 
the quality of the fruit. 
Outdoor Vines.; — These trained against walls or trellises will 
require frequent attention. If bearing shoots have been stopped at two 
joints beyond the bunches of fruit the lateral shoots resulting must be 
pinched at the first leaf, or if space allows one or two joints further. 
Train new shoots at distances sufficiently wide to allow of the main 
leaves upon them having plenty of room to develop, and stop them when 
the extent of the space is reached. Keep the fruit close to the wall 
where it will be partly shaded from the sun by the large and ample 
foliage in front. 
Apples. —Apples soon show the result of lack of vigour in the trees 
by arrested growth, which often causes the young leaves to become 
curled, losing their green hue and taking on a brightly coloured appear¬ 
ance. This is due to the attacks of red spider, which extract the juices 
from the tissues. They aie only prevalent on the shoots of trees 
deficient in proper support and probably moisture in the soil. Trees 
exhibiting this undesirable appearance will be benefited by receiving 
special attention in the way of increased nutriment accorded to the roots. 
Clear water and liquid manure of any kind will do much to restore 
vigour, which if not visibly apparent this season will be next. The 
removal and burning of bad leaves will be beneficial also, as blighted 
leaves are of no use whatever. In spite, however, of drawbacks of this 
nature many varieties of Apples continue to bear fruit annually if the 
blossom escapes injury from frost. Lord Suffield is one of the surest 
bearers under varying circumstances of culture, and will carry a fair 
crop of fruit when receiving but little attention from year to year. 
Such treatment ought not to be continued, as under neglect the trees 
assume very unshapely habits from the twisting and blowing about of 
the shoots by the wind. Standard trees in exposed positions suffer the 
most. Kegulate the growths now, support branches heavily laden with 
fruit, thin out the smallest fruits, and stop the breastwood if not 
already done on walls and espaliers, or other forms where the trees are 
restricted. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and nectarines. — Early Forced Trees. —Such varieties 
as Hale’s Early, Stirling Castle, and Royal George Peaches, Lord Napier 
and Elruge Nectarines that were started in December, or Alexander and 
Early Louise, wfith Advance Nectarine in January to ripen their fruit 
without hard forcing, which is never advisable, in May or early June, 
will for some time have been cleared of fruit, and the wood on which 
the fruit was borne removed, if not extension shoots, also any superfluous 
growths. This will have been of the greatest benefit to the trees, 
provided the foliage has been kept clean and the roots duly supplied 
with food. Efforts in this direction must not be relaxed; keep the 
plants clear of insects if necessary by the use of an insecticide and 
supplied with water, or in the case of weakly trees liquid manure at the 
roots. A light mulching tends to keep the roots near the surface and 
slight growth in the laterals to make them active, and these prevent the 
premature ripening of the foliage. The buds will be sufficiently 
plumped and the wood sufficiently matured to allow the roof lights to be 
removed. This is a commendable practice, not the least of its advantages 
being the thorough moistening of the border by the autumn rains. 
Trees Starting in February. —These have the fruit ripe, and some 
still ripening, the fruit being finer and later than usual, and it shows 
the advantages of being allowed plenty of time. As the fruit is cleared 
off the trees cut out the wood that has borne it, and thin the growths 
where so close that the foliage cannot have full exposure to light and 
air. Cleanse the foliage of dust or insects by means of the syringe or 
engine, and if necessary use an insecticide. Keep the borders thoroughly 
moist, top-dress with an approved fertiliser, and wash it in. This 
enables the trees to plump the buds and benefits the foliage. Stop all 
laterals to one joint, or allow a little lateral extension if the trees have 
the buds in an advanced state, preventing premature ripening of the 
foliage by continuing the root action, with at the same time growth on 
which to expend it without danger of forcing the principal buds into 
growth. When the buds are well formed and the trees are not over- 
luxuriant remove the roof lights, but where lifting or root-pruning is 
contemplated the lights should not be removed, as the operation is 
better performed with soil only moderately moist, and that can be 
regulated by keeping the lights on. 
Trees Started in March. —The stoning is now satisfactorily com¬ 
pleted and the fruit taking its last swelling. The leaves should be 
drawn aside and the fruit raised by means of laths across the trellis, so 
that the apex will be to the light. Water the border both inside and 
outside with liquid manure, and keep it mulched with about an inch 
thickness of short lumpy manure, or top-dress with superphosphate two 
parts and one part sulphate of potash, mixed, at the rate of 4 ozs. per 
square yard, and lightly point in. Avoid a close soapy mulch, as that 
does harm by excluding air. Ventilate early, leaving a “crack” on 
constantly, syringe by 7 A.M., and ventilate freely through the day. 
When the sun loses power in the afternoon begin to reduce the ventila¬ 
tion, and raise the temperature to 85° or 90° about 4 P.M., with a good 
syringing and damping of surfaces, but it must be done with judgment, 
for when the water hangs for any length of time on the fruit during the 
last stages of swelling it is liable to damage the skin, causing it to crack, 
or it encourages mould and may give the fruit a musty flavour. Always 
syringe so as to have the foliage and fruit fairly dry before nightfall, 
and when the day is likely to be dull omit the morning syringing. 
When the fruit commences to ripen cease syringing the trees, but 
afford air moisture by damping available surfaces, especially the 
border, whenever it becomes dry, ventilating rather freely, always 
leaving enough air on to ensure a circulation. The trees must not 
lack water at the roots or the fruit may ripen prematurely. 
Late Houses. —The fruit is so backward that there will not be any 
need to retard it by having recourse to abundant night ventilation. If 
wanted to accelerate the ripening ventilate freely in the early part of 
the day and up to 1 p.m., then keep the heat obtained by reducing the 
ventilation so as to secure 80° to 85°, and at 4 p.m. close, syringing well, 
and no harm will come if the temperature rise to 90°, ventilating a little 
at G p.m., so as to let the pent-up moisture escape and the temperature 
gradually cool down. Attend to tying down the shoots as they advance, 
allow no more than are required for next year’s bearing and the furnish¬ 
ing of the trees, and give all sufficient space for the full exposure of the 
foliage to light and air. Stop the laterals to one leaf and retain growth 
to attract the sap to the fruit. Any gross shoots which push laterals 
from the leaf buds should be cut back to where the buds are intact, or if 
likely to interfere with the equalisation of the sap cut them out alto¬ 
gether. These gross growths promote gumming, bad setting, and casting 
of the fruit in stoning. Expose the fruit to the light by drawing the 
leaves aside, and raise it from the under side of the trellis, as light and 
air are essential to its colour and quality. 
Unheated Houses— The trees have the fruit stoning, and, where 
there are early varieties, in the last stages of swelling. These, such as 
Alexander, Waterloo, Early Louise, and Early Rivers, will need to have 
water kept from the fruit ; but the midseason and late varieties require 
syringing about 7 A.M., the house having a little ventilation constantly, 
increasing it with the advancing temperature, contriving to have it full 
at 75°, closing for the day at that heat. If it is wanted to accelerate the 
fruit keep through the day at 80° to 85°, but always with ventilation, 
and close sufficiently early to maintain that temperature, but not to 
raise it above 90°. Syringe again about 5 P.M. on fine days, but damp 
only when dull. Timely thinning increases the size of the fruits 
retained, therefore complete it as soon as the stoning is completed. 
Supply water or liquid manure to the borders as required. 
rigs.— Trees in Pots for Early Forcing. —Keep down insects by 
syringing once a day, in hot weather twice ; afford liquid manure at the 
roots, and pinch to induce a neat habit. Stopping must be regulated by 
the vigour of the plants and the varieties. Vigorous growers require 
more stopping than those of moderate growth, but the stopping should 
not be practised much after this time on trees which are intended 
for very early forcing. 
Second Crops on Planted-out Trees. —Trees started about the new 
year have the second crop in an advanced state. Thin it, if not already 
done, reserving that at the base of the shoots, which, as a rule, finishes 
better than that at the points, which must not be allowed to bear, as it 
is on this part that the first crop in the next year is produced. Nor 
must the second crop tax the energies of the trees too severely if they 
are expected toaffordafull cropof early fruit next season. Attend regularly 
to tying the shoots, training them thinly, and allow plenty of space in 
the ties for the shoots to swell. Stop side growths at the fifth leaf, but 
do not retain these spur growths to the extent of crowding. Afford water 
or liquid manure in accordance with the extent of the rooting area. 
Trees in narrow borders may need it every day, those of larger area 
corresponding thereto. Overwatering can hardly occur in hot weather,, 
provided the border is formed of sound materials, the roots active, and 
the drainage thorough. Feed with liquid manure or mulch with short 
manure, keeping it moist, but not always saturated. Syringe twice a 
day forcibly to dislodge red spider, but with proper feeding and 
attention there will be little need for insecticides. Dislodge scale with 
a brush and a soapy solution. Admit a little air constantly, increase it 
early, close early with plenty of moisture, and the fruit will swell to a 
good size. When it is ripening a circulation of air constantly will 
insure perfection. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
Still Feeding Bees. 
Bee-keepers in this locality are still feeding most of the stocks 
to keep them alive. Bees lie strewn about everywhere in a dead 
or dying state, and hives become less instead of increasing. It is 
