68 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ July 21, 1832. 
mischief. The baits should be placed about 1 square foot apart, and, 
examined daily ; the pests will soon be cleared. There is no wholesale 
method of destruction but poison, and that is not so good as the Carrot 
baits on so small an area as the Vine border. If after using the baits a 
few days no more wireworms are taken, you may sow Mustard on the 
border, and let it grow until it commences to flower, and then trample 
it down and cover with a little fresh soil. 
Superphosphate of lime ( Kittie ).—Instead of scattering the 
sediment we should prefer to strain the liquid by passing it from one 
vessel into another through a piece of muslin, or by pouring it out care¬ 
fully. This could be used about twice a week to plants requiring 
support, giving it in the form of an ordinary watering. It would 
tend to improve the bushes, and would be safe. It is probable, however, 
that greater benefit would accrue from a light dressing, say a quarter of 
a pound to the square yard, applied to the bushes in spring, scattering 
it on the soil, and hoeing it in carefully, or pointing it in with a fork. 
Try both plans, and note the results. 
Scab on Tomato ( Keswick ).—The best preventive is thorough 
exposure of the plants to light, a genial atmosphere, kept buoyant by 
gentle warmth and careful ventilation. The atmosphere has been too 
close, hence mould at the apex of the fruit where the flower had been. 
Beneath the dried skin there were filaments (mycelium) of a fungus 
which has not broken through because the scab is too hard and dry, 
and will not, we apprehend, appear, as the fruit is so far advanced 
in ripening. But the fungus appears to be Cladosporum lycopersici 
dormant, and may in this case appear in the fruit of the progeny under 
favouring conditions. 
Training: and Setting Melons (Anxious to Know ).—You appear 
to have proceeded correctly in training the Melons. Fertilise one- 
flower on each of the side shoots, endeavouring to do all at the same 
time in order that they may swell evenly. Do not allow more than 
one fruit on each shoot. Permit the growths to develop one healthy 
leaf beyond the fruit, and then stop them, or you will have the plants 
densely crowded with foliage. If the weather is bad for artificial 
setting the chances would be worse for impregnation to take place 
without, therefore transfer the pollen in the usual way from the 
staminate to the fruit-bearing bloom. Do not overcrop the plants. 
Probably four fruits are as many as each will develop properly. 
Spots on Ivy-leaved Pelargonium Foliage (E. G. B.). —The 
leaves are spotted by the inroads of a small micro-organism, which 
produces a yellow discoloration of the green parts, as you may see if you 
hold a leaf up to the light; and the scab is a result of the abnormal 
growth of the epidermal tissues, and the consequent effort to cover the 
injured part with a fresh skin (cuticle). The yellow spot is probably 
caused by a minute fungus, evidently a septoria, whilst the scald is due 
to another fungoid growth of the genus Tubercinia. Try sprajing the 
plants with a weak solution of ammoniacal carbonate of copper, for 
which a formula has repeatedly been given in these columns. But there 
is nothing like a genial atmosphere and a free-rooting medium, not over¬ 
watered, nor too rich, for keeping the plants in health. 
Aphides on Pansies (C. B.'). —There is no difficulty in destroying 
green fly on Pansies if they can be reached by a solution of quassia 
and softsoap, but when the insects have been overlooked and allowed 
to increase till the leaves become curled up it is not easy to reach 
them. In such cases it is often advisable to take the tops off if 
much infested, and encourage fresh growth, which should be kept 
clean. Boil 2 ozs. of quassia chips gently for twenty minutes, also 
dissolve 2 ozs. of softsoap in a gallon of water, mix, and then add 
another gallon of water, then if you can dip the Pansy shoots in the 
mixture you will find it will destroy the insects. Tobacco powder will 
also destroy all you can dust with it. Mr. Simkins’ work of 110 pages, 
entitled “ the Pansy, and How to Grow and Show It,” is good. It is 
published by Messrs. Cornish Brothers, Birmingham, and Simpkin, 
Marshall & Co., London. The price can be obtained from a bookseller. 
Eucomis punctata (C. B .).—The plant of which you send flowers, 
taken from a spike, is an Eucomis, 1 robably E. punctata. It is a Cape 
of Good Hope bulbous plant, and was introduced to this country in 1783. 
It is easily cultivated, growing well in sound loam kept porous with 
crushed charcoal and pressed down firmly. After flowering the plants 
may be stood in a sunny position in the open air, giving adequate 
support for producing good foliage. Allowing seeds to ripen has a 
weakening tendency. Reduce the supply of water as the foliage ripens, 
and keep the soil dry, but not dust dry, in winter in a frame or cool 
house from which frost is excluded. In spring abundance of light is 
needed by the growing plants, with adequate supplies of water for their 
support. We have had plants established in a narrow border in the open 
air for years next the south wall of a greenhouse. The bulbs are nearly 
a foot deep, and the border is mulched with manure on the approach 
of winter. 
Bottling- Green Gooseberries (./. M., York). —The Gooseberries 
should be of the small varieties, Rumbullion being the best, and not 
more than half grown. Put them into open-mouthed bottles, such as 
are used for pickles, and fill with soft cold water that has been boiled. 
Place the bottles up to the neck in cold water, and let it boil until the 
fruit begins to shrink, which will be in less than five minutes. Remove 
the vessel from the fire, or, if it be a copper, take the fire from under it, 
and when the water is cold take out the bottles. They should not be 
removed hot from the water, as sudden contact with the air might crack 
them. When cold cork securely, and wash over, as the corks of pickle 
bottles are done, with resin. The bottles may then be buried in the 
ground, not less than a foot deep, in a dry cool place, on the north side 
of a wall, but it answers just as well to keep bottled Gooseberries in a 
dry cool place, such as is often available in cellars or dark store rooms. 
We are not aware that Cherries and Red and White Currants may be 
treated in a similar manner ; indeed, these fruits are not generally used 
for tarts in a green state. It is no uncommon thing, however, to 
preserve ripe Morello Cherries in brandy. These are called brandy 
Cherries, and are used at dessert. The liqueur is termed Cherry brandy. 
Insect on Pea Haulm (T. L .).—The growing points and flowering 
parts of the Pea haulm are destroyed by the larvae of a moth belonging 
to the group of Tineina, and only differ from the Diamond-back or 
Turnip moth larvae in being about eight times smaller. Dusting the 
haulm with dry soot or quicklime in the morning or late evening, when 
damp with dew, has been found effectual against the pests. Lime water 
made by slaking freshly burned limestone or chalk in a tub and adding 
3 gallons of water to each pound of lime used, stirring well, and allowing 
to stand forty-eight hours, then syringing the Peas with the clear water 
only, has also been found efficacious. Preventive measures ought, 
however, to have been taken at a much earlier period. Quassia water 
is useful against the pest, and taken in time sufficient to prevent 
infestation. In extreme cases 1 oz. of Paris green to 20 gallons of 
water has been had recourse to and completely extirpates these pests, 
as well as those belonging to the group Tortricina, or Leaf-roller moths. 
It must, however, be used very carefully, and not over vegetables which 
are used for food. It must only be used as a spray, and kept well 
agitated whilst being applied. It is a dangerous poison. If you add 
2 ozs. of softsoap to every gallon of the quassia water it would prove 
more effectual by holding on to the haulm better and longer. 
Tomato Flowers not Setting Fruit (X. Y. Z .).—The flowers 
are imperfect, and the fruit cannot possibly set. In fact, the ovaries 
appear to be destroyed by some fungus, evidently that of the Potato, 
Phytophthora infestans. We should try “ bouillie bordelaise,” which 
may be made of 5 lbs. of sulphate of copper, 2J lbs. of unslaked lime, 
and 25 gallons of water. Put the sulphate of copper in a bag, and 
suspend it in cold water overnight or until the sulphate is completely 
dissolved. The lime, freshly slaked with water and kept till it is cooled, 
should be poured into the bluestone solution through a sieve, so as to 
catch the stones and hard lumps. Keep the liquid continually stirred 
as the lime is being added. With this mixture spray the Tomato plants, 
keeping the mixture well mixed if a syringe with a spraying nozzle is 
used ; but the Eclair knapsack pump is much the best means of applying 
bouillie bordelaise. All that is necessary is to coat the foliage and 
plants with the thinnest possible film, yet effectually in every part. It, 
however, must be kept from the fruit after it is more than a quarter 
advanced in swelling, and be well syringed in the course of a few days 
so as to cleanse it of the copper. As you cannot get the fruit to set 
the early preventive treatment is necessary. After the fruit becomes 
infected there is great danger in using the bouillie bordelaise, through 
its adhering to the fruit and being a possible source of danger, as the 
sulphate of copper is very poisonous. 
Grapes Unsatisfactory (Y. Z .).—The Grapes are in a very 
unsatisfactory condition. They are small, badly coloured, and shanked, 
and the quality is inferior. We should have liked to see a specimen of 
the growth as well, for the bunch clearly indicates that there is some¬ 
thing seriously wrong with the Vines. You say that they have been 
planted about twenty-seven years, that they are in a narrow inside 
border 16 inches wide, and that they are allowed to run outside. You 
add that the rods are 17 feet long, carrying twenty-five bunches, of an 
average weight of H lb. First, we think it highly probable that the 
majority of the principal feeding roots are outside the house, and it is 
most likely that they have run into poor material, possibly sour and 
inert. This would tend to enfeebled growth, small bunches, email fruit, 
shanking, and imperfect colouring. Moreover, the evil has been 
aggravated by overcropping. Vines in the condition that we may 
reasonably suppose yours to be ought not to carry upwards of 2 lbs. 
per foot of rod, or even half that weight. With respect to ameliorative 
measures the first step should be the removal of all such bunches as that 
you have sent, even if this means stripping the Vines entirely of fruit, 
for they are worthless, and will only put a further strain on the already 
enfeebled rods. Then in the autumn, as soon as the leaves turn yellow, 
we should bare the roots and endeavour to trace their course. If, as we 
suspect, they have run into some bad soil, remove them, cutting off any 
that are decayed, and shortening others that are very rank in character. 
Lay them nearer the surface in fresh soil, such as sound turfy loam, 
with a sprinkling of wood ashes, over a foot depth of rubble for drainage, 
and you might also notch a few of them, and place a few handfuls of 
wood ashes around them in order to encourage the formation of fresh 
fibres. Press the soil firmly around them. With the formation of a 
network of roots of a fibrous character, such as may be expected to issue 
consequent on the employment of sweet, friable, fertile soil, more 
healthy and vigorous growth may be looked for. Maintain this in 
health by keeping insects under, and by full exposure to light, not 
permitting overcrowding. Crop the Vines lightly next season ; half a 
pound of fruit to each foot of rod will be ample. With due attention to 
other details of management we think that improvement will result, 
provided the Vines have not been injured beyond recovery, in which 
case there will be no resource but to plant young ones in a fresh border. 
Your desire to effect improvement is praiseworthy, for such Grapes are 
not a credit to anyone. 
