156 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ August 18, 189X 
fruit only when dry. Keep the roots of the trees moist, or the crops 
will not finish well. Copious supplies of water will be needed in 
dry weather, loosening the soil to ensure easy admission of the fluid 
to the roots as far as they extend, but be careful not to injure fibres 
near the surface. Liquid manure will be beneficial to heavily cropped 
trees. Insects, such as earwigs and woodlice, are troiblesome now. 
Hollow beanstalks G or 8 inches long, or brown paper folded in lengths 
several times and placed between the wall and the branches, form good 
traps for the earwigs, from which they are easily dislodged into an 
empty bottle or a vessel of hot water. It is now necessary to remove 
finally all the superfluous shoots, and fasten in close to the wall the 
leading and other growths intended to be reserved, in order to quickly 
ripen the wood. The upper and strongest shoots need attention first. 
The lower shoots and those not very vigorous may remain to the last. 
The latter will be induced to grow by remaining free a short time 
longer. As soon as the fruit has been gathered a raid must be made on 
red spider, which soon attacks the foliage when it is subject to heavy 
demands, as it is during fruit ripening and in very dry weather. Heavy 
syringings with soapy water, 2 ozs. of softsoap to the gallon of water, or 
any of the numerous insecticides, will, if directed well to the under 
surfaces of the leaves, soon destroy the pest. It may be kept in check 
afterwards by the frequent use of clean water, with occasional doses of 
soapy water. Retaining the foliage healthy to the last is an important 
detail in successful culture. 
Gathering Early Apples and Pears.— The early varieties of 
Apples such as Joaneting, Devonshire Quarrenden, Mr. Gladstone, and 
Red Astrachan, together with Williams’ Bon ChiStien, Jargonelle, Citron 
des Cannes, and other early Pears, will be ready to gather during this 
month when grown under favourable conditions in suitable situations. 
Select a period when the fruit is dry and cool, and as near maturity as 
possible, without running the risk of letting it hang too long. The 
best test for gathering ripe fruit is the easy detachment of the fruits 
from the spurs. If not wanted for immediate use, lay each fruit 
separately and carefully in a cool dry place. 
Protecting Fruit— Birds are generally the first intruders upon 
ripening fruits. Where they are known to be troublesome the trees 
should be netted over at an early stage to prevent injury. Wasps may 
be caught by hanging bottles of sweetened beer in the trees. Late 
Gooseberries and Currants, also Morello Cherries on wall-trained trees 
intended to be kept as long as possible, should be protected from wet 
as well as birds and insects. 
Raspberries. As soon as all the fruit has been gathered cut away 
the bearing canes in order to admit light and air to the present season’s 
growth to admit of its becoming well ripened. Remove also all the weak 
growths and short useless suckers, which choke the better growths and 
impoverish the ground, besides being very untidy and forming harbours 
for insects. 
Strawberries— Continue planting young rooted runners at suitable 
opportunities. Plenty of strong plants with abundance of fibrous roots 
can now be found in the spaces between the plants, especially where 
wide planting is practised. Those rooted among a crowded mass of 
runners and shaded by rank leafage are of little use, and should not be 
employed. Sturdy plants always prove the most satisfactory. Make a 
reserve bed of young plants, placing them 6 inches apart. These will 
prove useful in the spring for filling up vacancies or for forming new 
beds. All the young plants wanted having been secured, lose no further 
time in clearing the beds completely of runners and weeds. Recently 
planted beds will also need a little attention in cutting away the small 
runners that extend from them. See that none of the young plants 
suffer from want of water. Once fairly started they will grow with 
rapidity until October and develop bold crowns. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines.— Earliest Forced Trees. —The trees 
being exposed to the full influences of the air by the removal of the 
roof lights will be greatly benefited through the foliage being cleansed 
by rain and invigorated by night dews. This will aid in swelling the 
buds without inducing over-development, and if the soil of the borders 
is thoroughly moistened by rain or watering the buds are not likely 
to be cast at a later period. A vital point in the continued early 
forcing of Peaches and Nectarines is to prevent the trees starting into 
growth prematurely. This can only be prevented by keeping them 
cool, along with some outlets for the sap in moderate lateral growths, 
and the preservation of the foliage in health. When the roof lights are 
fixed the trees should have all the air possible, and they must not suffer 
by want of water at the roots or the buds will become defective and fall 
when the sap ascends. 
Succession Ileuses. —When the fruit is gathered cut out all the bear¬ 
ing wood of this season unless forming extensions, and the shoots for 
next year’s fruiting where too crowded should be thinned to admit 
light and air to assist the ripening of the wood. Afterwards cleanse 
the foliage thoroughly with water from the syringe or garden engine. 
I he roof lights should be removed as soon as the wood is ripe and the 
buds are plump, unless the trees are young and there is any doubt 
about the ripeness of the wood, when a temperature of 80° or 85° should 
be maintained from sun heat, and the ventilators thrown open at night. 
Supply water to the roots so as to keep the soil in a moist condition. 
Weakly trees will be benefited by the application of liquid manure. 
Late Houses— Let the fruit have full exposure to the sun, drawing 
eaves aside, shortening them if necessary, and raising depending 
fruit with its apex to the light by laths placed crosswise of the trellis. 
Keep the growths tied as they advance in length. Stop or remove gross 
growths, and let all have full exposure to light. Laterals should be kept 
well in hand, but they may be allowed moderate extension in the case 
of trees carrying heavy crops bo as to attract the sap to the fruit, and 
maintain activity at the roots. Trees carrying light crops and having 
strong wood and much lateral growth should be marked for lifting or 
cutting the roots as soon as the wood is sufficiently firm. This should 
be done a month to six weeks in advance of the leaves falling. Con¬ 
tinue the syringing on fine days in the morning and afternoon until the 
fruit commences ripening, but on dull days damp the house instead 
of syringing the trees. Provide a little ventilation constantly, and 
increase it early in the day. 
Ripening the Fruit. —If it is desired to facilitate the ripening of the 
fruit the temperature through the day may be kept at 80° to 85°, closing 
in the afternoon early enough to raise the heat to 90° or 95°, and before 
nightfall admit a little air at the top of the house, so as to permit of 
any excess of moisture escaping, and to induce a cooling of the atmo¬ 
sphere and rest. The increased temperature must be accompanied by 
a correspondingly moist atmosphere. In other circumstances allow no 
opportunity of free ventilation to be neglected ; but in case of high 
winds it is well to moderate the ventilation, admitting air on the oppo¬ 
site side to that from which the wind blows, and closing must be 
attended tr, so as to prevent an unusually low temperature at night. 
See that the borders inside and outside have sufficient water, never 
allowing the soil to become so dry as to cause the foliage to become 
limp, as that may check the fruit in swelling, and cause premature 
ripening, thin flesh, and poor in flavour. A light mulching of short 
lumpy manure will tend to keep the soil moist, attract the roots to the 
surface, and the water will carry the manurial elements down to the 
roots. Liquid manure should be supplied to weakly trees and those 
carrying heavy crops. 
Cucumbers.— Old plants which have been bearing from an early 
part of the season produce about this time, or soon after, knobby ended 
fruits. These are poor for use, and still less attractive in appearance, 
but they are essential for seed, as the long and straight handsome fruit 
are less prolific, even when the flowers are fertilised. Seed bearing, 
however, is fatal to the production in quantity of useful fruit. Old 
plants may be kept in a bearing condition by cutting out the old 
growths and encouraging young, so as to insure a succession of bearing 
wood. Train this thinly, removing old leaves to afford room for new" 
growths, and stopping at one joint beyond the fruit. The surface soil 
should be removed, and fresh lumpy loam supplied. Plants that have 
been in bearing in frames some time will be restored to vigour by a free 
thinning out of the old shoots and the addition of a little fresh loam, 
giving a moderate watering and a sprinkling over the foliage on bright 
afternoons, closing at about 3 p.m. With linings to the beds, and the 
protection of mats over the lights, Cucumbers will be produced for a- 
lengthened period. 
Autumn-fruiting Plants. —These should be encouraged to make a 
strong growth by earthing betimes, applying enough soil each time to 
cover the protruding roots, and taking care to have the soil moist and 
warm. Supply water to the roots only when wanted, and give a 
thorough supply each time. Syringe at 3 P.M., damping in the morning, 
at noon, and in the evening in bright weather. Maintain a night 
temperature of 65° to 70°, 70° to 75° by day artificially, 80° to 90° from 
sun heat, and close between 80° and 85°, and so as to increase to 90° 
95°, or even 100°. Train the growths rather thinly, allowing about 
12 inches between the side growths, and stop them at about a foot’s 
growth to give the needful fruiting and furnishing growths. Remove- 
all fruits and male flowers as they show, so as to induce strong growth 
the early part of September, being sufficiently early to allow fruit tn 
show for cutting at the end of that month, then by cropping lightly at 
first a good supply of fruit can be had later on, when it is most wanted. 
Avoid over-luxuriance by rich surface dressings and the too free use of 
liquid manure, but secure plenty of roots by sweet compost and a sturdy, 
thoroughly solidified growth, by judicious ventilation and full exposure 
of the foliage to the light. 
Houses for Winter Fruit. —The structure must be light and efficiently 
heated both at the top and bottom, and means of ventilation be pro¬ 
vided so that air can be admitted when necessary without creating a 
prejudicial current. The plants will have been raised from seed, say 
about the 10th of this month, if not the sowing of the seed must not 
be further delayed. Pot the plants as soon as ready, shift them as they 
require more root space, keep them near the glass, and place a small 
stick to each for its support, growing the plants without stopping, but 
rubbing off side shoots as they appear to the height of the trellis. la 
the meanwhile the house should be thoroughly cleansed and repaired, 
or painting completed. Remove all the old soil, and making everything 
as sweet as possible so that the plants may have a chance, winter 
Cucumber growing being much easier to write about than to practise 
successfully. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Chrysanthemums. —Some care is needed in the selection of flower 
buds on those plants that have been grown for the production of 
exhibition blooms. The growths that surround the flower bud should be 
removed carefully with the point of a knife directly they can be distin¬ 
guished. If by any chance the flower bud is not healthy or well formed 
allow one of the shoots to lead away again ; this in due course will 
