172 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Aajosi 2S, 1?V2. 
length. As soon as these shoots have been cut for use the planta 
should be kept rather dry till they show signs of starting in 
the spring. Then water wiLl be required more frequently, 
and when growth is well advanced the plants should receive a 
slightly larger pot, but care should be taken at all times to avoid 
overpotting. 
About this time last year I received a packet of seed from New 
York. I sowed part of the seed myself, and gave some to a 
gardening friend. Both packets were sown in small pots and 
placed in a cold pit, where the plants were kept till frosty nights 
became prevalent. They were then placed close to the glass in an 
intermediate temperature, and kept growing steadily throughout 
the winter. 
Early in the spring these plants, which till that time had been 
grown under the same conditions, were given widely different 
treatment. From five to eight seeds had been sown in a pot. 
Some of the seedlings were placed in G-inch pots, and as soon as 
they were well established were trained to strings placed on a wall 
near the front of a cool conservatory, others were divided, and 
each plant placed in a 3-inch pot. The plants thus divided were 
put under handlights and kept close till well established. After 
having been inured to more light and air they were transferred to 
o-inch pots. Some of these were placed against the sashioa^s at 
the ends of vineries, others against the glass partitions which 
divide the range of vineries into compartments. Strings were 
fastened the whole length of each sashbar, to which the young 
shoots quickly clung, and up which they gradually ascended. All 
h ive done well, but those trained against the ends of the houses 
are somewhat stronger than the others, and those grown 
throughout in the cool conservatory have not grown so freely 
as other plants given the heat afforded to Vines in the growing 
season. 
In all cases where the plants were grown singly in pot3 the 
growth made has been much freer, but there is this to be said in 
favour of the growth produced from clumps—it is more suitable 
for using in shower bouquets and small vases ; but for dinner-table 
decoration the longer the shoots the better, hence it is advisable to 
grow some plants under each system, with the slight alteration 
that those intended for growing singly in pots ought to be sown 
thus in very small pots to begin with. A few plants have been 
planted out against the back wall of a vinery, and by the way they 
are growing at present I anticipate this much-used plant will be 
thoroughly adapted for growing in such positions—if so, that fact 
should solve the oft-repeated question as to what i3 the best 
plant to cover the back wall of a vinery with, for there can be 
bat little doubt that the demand for Smilax will be very great in 
the future, and if at the same time a plentiful supply can be had 
by growing it on walls which have previously produced nothing of 
special value it will be the more generally grown. A compost of 
loam, leaf soil, and a little decayed manure, with plenty of sharp 
sand, and some charcoal, lime rubble, or wood ashes added to keep 
the soil open and sweet, suits this plant admirably. It seem3 to 
be by no means fastidious in the matter of soil, provided the pots 
are well drained and the soil kept sweet, but stagnation at the roots 
is inimical to it3 well-being, and if continued fatal to its existence. 
—H. Dunkik. 
JUDGING HERBACEOUS FLOWERS. 
I AM sure many readers of the Journal will be grateful to Mr. 
Garnett for his remarks under the above heading. Exhibitors and 
secretaries of societies will feel deeply interested in them, and curious 
as to the exact wording of the schedule. This coming bo soon after 
Mr. Mclndoe’s letter makes it an important question, which I have not 
teen discussed in your valuable paper. As an exhibitor I am often 
puzzled, and as a local secretary dismayed, at the construction often put 
on the wording of the classes for cut flowers at exhibitions. 
Let us take a few examples. Twelve cut blooms Chrysanthemum®, 
distinct. Twelve bunches, distinct, three in a bunch, not less than three 
varieties. Note : Disbudding not allowed. Collection of cut flowers, 
four varieties, distinct species (cottagers only). Do cottagers know the 
distinct species, or only botanists ? Collection of hardy cut flowers. 
Now comes the wrangle. Hardy where ? A Bpecies hardy in Kent is 
not necessarily so in Durham. Then, how many ? Are they to be 
bunched or mixed, or what ? Six bunches of hardy flowers, shown in a 
box, distinct species. This is a gain, but still I may have five varieties 
of Pansies in one bunch, and so on with the other species. The opposite 
to the above is six varieties of cut flowers, distinct. Now, in a class of 
this description not one of six exhibitors at a country show in July 
complied with the direction. Again, twelve bunches of cut flowers, cut 
from the bed ; and twelve bunches of garden flowers. In this schedule 
is a note: “Quality of flowers and general effect to be the leading 
features in these classes.” Another schedule says, “ The exhibits are to 
be made as interesting and instructive a3 possible.” This is a very 
indistinct way of putting the matter I am aware, but so long as 
cottagers and others escape disqualification so long will the error of 
having three colours of Stock, or Phlox, or Zinnias put In the place 
which should be occupied by only one variety continue. 
There ii a consolation, however, that in the future we may educate 
“our masters” up to the spirit of schedules and exhibitions. Mr. 
Garnett may also be encouraged to hear, that even in this da-k spot the 
working classes are rising in horticultural matters, and eipecia _y in 
growing herbaceous flowers.— Noethants. 
HEATING WITH GAS. 
I AM about erecting a very small propagating house, and as I do 
not keep a regular gardener it would be a very great convenience if I 
could heat it with gas. Can any of your readers tel. me from experience 
about what the cost of consumption would be ? I find it very hard to 
get any reliable information. The house I think will be span-roofed, 
about 7 feet 6 inches long by 8 feet 6 inches wide. On the one side 
would be a tank to propagate upon, and on the other side a bed for 
plants. There would be, I suppose, a flow and return along each side, 
so there would be about 30 feet of 3-inch piping to heat. The gas 
company tell me that it takes 1 foot of gas to heat 1 square foot of 
piping per hour to 180°. I therefore suppose that it would take about 
20 feet of gas per hour to heat the 30 feet of 3-lnch piping. This will 
cost about three farthings per hour, or Is. for fourteen hours, or Is. GL 
for twenty-four. This would be too much. I have a circular before me 
of a gas stove which the inventor claims will heat a bouse 14 feet by 
9 feet with an average of G feet of gas per hour, but neither the amount 
of piping nor temperature of the house 13 sta-ed. For a few years I have 
managed a coke stove, and there is one here for the green con se, but I 
have only lit it at night when frost threatened. With propagating, 
however, I suppose the heat is afforded continuously, and this with 
coke would be a serious toil. Anv information will much oblige.— 
S. J. A. 
LIFTING AND PLANTING PEACHES AND 
NECTARINES. 
Teees which have been long subjected to very early fore ng are 
seldom too vigorous, but often become so enfeebled as to need the 
removal of the weak growths. Such trees should be taken in hand as 
soon as the leaves are mature and before they fall, and it ;s advisable to 
shade the bouse before commencing operations, especially if the weather 
is bright. Remove the old soil from amongst the roots of such trees 
and supply fresh turfy loam, to which has been added a sprinkling of 
bonemeal and wood ashes—say, half a bushel of the first and a busne; of 
the iatter to each cartload of loam. Raise any roots that are low, and 
place them in fresh soil nearer the surface, carefully working the loam 
amongst the roots, making all compact, and follow at once with a good 
watering. If the trees are in very bad condition it may be necessary 
to lift them altogether, rectify the drainage if defective, and put a.l 
into proper order. It is of no use, however, attempting to mend trees 
that have begun to lose a number of branches from gummiDg, for 
they are so full of the germs of the disease that lifting only accelerates 
young growths, which in two or three years are as badly infested with 
gummosis as any of the older branches. 
Young trees are very much better than old that have become 
afflicted with this disease, which lies dormant in the tissues and only 
awaits an opportunity to break out again. Young trees may be cured 
by judicious lifting and cutting out the gummed branches, but when 
the disease has possession of the old limbs or of the stem it is better 
to uproot and plant young trees perfectly free from this increasing 
malady. 
Any trees that gTow too luxuriantly should be lifted and have the 
roots pruned, the more fibrous ones being laid in carefully as near the 
surface as practicable, making the soil firm. By sprinkling the trees 
occasionally, and continuing the shading for a few days if the weather 
is bright, the foliage will be retained long enough to insure the emission 
of fresh rootlets, and with these ready to cater for the growths when 
the trees are started there will be a good set of fruit, and it will stone 
and finish satisfactorily under favourable cultural conditions. I he sc ace 
must be discontinued in the course of a week or ten days. If the old 
leaves are cast no harm will follow, as the iatera_s and the young wood 
having more or less elaborative power will further root-action. 
When it is found necessary to displace old trees it is well worth 
while to give the new ones a chance, not merely digging a hole and 
planting them, adding a little fresh soil to give them a -tart; but by 
removing the old soil and providing fresn for making new reorders in 
time to settle somewhat before planting the trees. The best description 
of loam is that from a pasture where the soil is friable but rather strong. 
That of the old and new red sandstone is no doubt the best, but molt 
strong b.ams will grow Peaches and Nectarines well, provided they con¬ 
tain enough calcareous matter and are sufficiently porous as to allow 
water to percolate slowly but surely through the mass. Old mortar 
rubbish will give the needful porosity to heavy soil as well as supply 
lime, and clay marl will provide retentive power and lime for light soils. 
The border must be efficiently drained, and provision made to carry off 
the superfluous water. A foot in depth of drainage, and 2 feet depth 
of soil are ample. Instead of making the bonier its full width at ones 
a 4 feet width is ample to begin with. The compost should be in good 
working order and put together firmly, having the borders in readiness 
by the end of September. 
