[ December 1, 1892. 
492 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
secured the first prize for a group of Chrysanthemums, and also for a 
B1D °M r S H^Diinldnt'gardener to the Earl of Warwick won the premier 
award in the cut bloom classes for twelve incurved, and also for a 
similar number of Japanese. The former were well moulded blooms 
and the latter, though not particularly large, were fresh and fine y 
coloured. Louis Boehmer, Etoile de Lyon, and W. W. Coles were the 
best among them. Mr. J. Garner, gardener to E. Lassen 
Verney, was second in the same 
blooms. 
Mr. Finch, eard--* r tQ w 
„ H ., v^ompton 
as weil as for six Japanese 
. ---- ou yy. B. Mann, Esq., secured first honours 
for Janfiuese, and also for the same number of incurved blooms. 
Mr. J. Kitley, Castle Nursery, Warwick, scored an easy victory for 
two bunches of black Grapes, staging Gios Colman, good in bunch, very 
fine in berry, and superb in colour—a truly meritorious exhibit, worthy 
of being staged at any show. 
In the Apple and Pear classes Mr. Liney, gardener to W. W. Low, 
Esq., Wellesbourne House, Warwick, was the principal prizetaker. 
The same exhibitor, as well as Mr. A. D. Christie, gardener to the 
Marquis of Hertford, Ragley Hall, Alcester, staged fine collections of 
Apples and Pears in the non-competing classes ; and Mr. R. Jones, 
gardener at Barford House, had several good stands of Chrysanthemums. 
A very meritorious group of miscellaneous plants was contributed by 
Mr. F. Perkins of Leamingtoo, who also exhibi ed a shower bouquet, a 
table ornament worked out in yellow Chrysanthemums and Privet 
berries, and a harp made of grey Lichen embossed with white 
Chrysanthemums. 
! 
IP WOKH F0I l THE WEEK.' 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Fruit Room. —Look frequently and carefully over all the stored 
fruit, seeing that none becomes over-ripe, or when exhibiting the least 
symptoms of decay remains too long in company with sound specimens. 
Those exhibiting a tendency to decay, also showing a specked appearance 
that is likely to spread, lay aside for immediate use. The general 
conditions to be maintained in the fruit room are a cool and dry 
atmosphere, but safety from frost, perfect cleanliness throughout, 
ventilating occasionally, and total darkness. Pears which do not 
readily ripen under these conditions may be hastened, a few at a 
time, by placing them in a higher temperature. This method also 
improves the flavour. They may be returned to cooler quarters when 
ripened if not wanted at once. 
Pruning- Apples and Pears. —Where perfectly balanced growth 
exists pruning is not required, but it is seldom that such a state of 
things exists. Trained trees of every form need regular attention at 
various periods of the year to maintain them in fruitful conditions. 
The system of summer pruning, resorted to with restricted trees to curb 
strong growths and concentrate the energies of the sap in the formation 
and feeding of fruit buds, must now have its last stage completed by 
cutting back to one or two buds the main wood growth, which originally 
started in the early summer from the midst of the fruiting spurs. These 
growths under a proper system of management would be duly stopped 
in June or July at the fourth or fifth leaf, and probably stopped again 
when the same number of leaves had been produced on a fresh break. 
These shoots must now be cut away to within one or two buds of their 
base. If well situated and have been fed by large leaves they may 
already be fruit buds, but if not they will have a chance of becoming 
such another season. Another result of summer stopping will now be 
seen in the plump character of buds produced in former years. Short 
shoots of the current year’s production with a prominent terminal bud 
may be retained. Sp'ur-pruning is necessary when such become crowded, 
ill-placed, and obstruct light and air from each other. 
Plums and Cherries. —On walls, Plums and dessert Cherries are 
grown partly on the spur system and partly on the plan of laying in 
well-placed young wood, which will in the course of the second year form 
fruit buds. A constant renewal of growth can thus be kept up and old 
worn-out portions of the trees removed. The foreright shoots produced 
from the spurs are shortened in the summer to 3 inches, further reducing 
them now to one bud ; or if the portions left at the summer pruning 
plump up all their buds they may be left full length. If large spaces 
are left bare on the walls by the removal of old and exhausted branches 
it may be necessary to unfasten the trees and re-arrange the shoots. 
All the old bearing wood must be cut out of Morello Cherries, nailiDg in 
sufficient of the current year’s growth to take its place, fruit being freely 
produced on this the following season. Orchard trees, after they have 
been formed into permanent shape, need little or no pruning, Cherries 
especially, but Plums may be occasionally gone over to remove crowded 
branches, also misplaced wood and weak spray. Cut out dead wood and 
remove suckers from the roots of Plum frees. 
Gooseberries and Currants. —Tne pruning of Gooseberries may 
be carried out now or later. Tne majority of cultivators, however, defer 
it until spring, when there is less chance of the buds being destroyed by 
bullfinches, sparrows, and other birds. There are ways and means of 
checkin® the birds, one of the best being thoroughly'dusting the trees 
with lime, or soot and lime, when damp. In pruning Gooseberry bushes 
a combination of spur-pruning and retaming young.wood is adopted 
with good results. Overcrowding must be avoided, or the fruit will be 
small and poor. Allow no suckers to grow from the underground stems. 
V“ry gross shoots remove entirely. Grown on walls and trellises the 
n-oneol-ipm: 
fly an cnlvippf.nd to more restriction, main 
trained at about 8 inches apart, and the annual shoots from these 
summer pruned and shortened in winter to one bud or so, forming spurs. 
Red and White Currants on walls are trained and treated in the same 
way, also in the open as bushes, no other system of pruning answering 
so well for these as spur-pruniDg. Black Currants are treated differently, 
the best bunches of fruit invariably being formed on strong young 
growths of the previous year. Pruning these, then, resolves itself into 
cutting out old bearing wood now, and leaving young growth disposed 
at moderate distances apart. 
Peaches, nectarines, and Apricots. —The old bearing shoots 
may now be pruned out, leaving the final pruning and thinning out 
until February, when the trees are re-arranged and nailed on the walls. 
The trees are best partly unfastened now, leaving the young wood free, 
so that the current year’s shoots, which will be the fruit-bearing wood 
next season, can be exposed to ensure thorough ripening. 
Figs _Before severe frosts occur Fig trees must have sime pro¬ 
tection, either by fastening mats in front of trees on Walls, or by laying 
dry bracken over the branches. Another plan is to unfasten the trees, 
tie the branches together, and protect the whole bundle. 
Vines. —Outdoor Vines may be pruned. The simplest way of train¬ 
ing them on walls is to carry horizontal growths right and left of the 
main stem as far as space allows, and from these train upright growths 
2 feet apart. Spur the lateral growth on these back yearly to a few 
prominent buds, from which a selection can be made for bearing. When 
the spurs attain some age the lateral growths thus becoming weak, 
renew the upright growths by encouraging strong young canes from 
tlicir base 
Raspberries.— Cut out all the old bearing wood closely to the 
ground. If grown in clumps each batch of canes being tied to a strong 
stake, the number of canes may be divided, shortening them at different 
lengths. This method produces a more even distribution of fruit during 
the summer, and adds to the better appearance of the bushes. When 
trained in lines to wires some canes ought to be shortened to the lower 
length of wire, ihe rest to the topmost wire, the whole of them being 
evenly distributed. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Earliest House —The Vines started early in November to 
supply ripe Grapes in March and April require the temperature increased 
to 60° at night after ihe buds break, gradually increasing so as to have 
it 60° to 65° at night when they are in leaf, 65° by day in severe 
weather, and 70° to 75° by artificial means when mild. Moderate venti¬ 
lation should be given in mild weather, and early, but without lowering 
the temperature, so as to effect a change of air, allowing an advance of 
10° to 15° from sun heat, and closing at midday or soon after. It is a 
good plan to admit a little air at 70° under any circumstances, to allow 
the pent-up moisture to escape and entirely displace the vitiated atmo¬ 
sphere by fresh, but with a rising temperature, keeping at 80° to 85° 
from sun heat, and closing so as to gain 5° rather than lose any benefit 
of the sun’s heat. In sharp weather enough air will gain admittance 
by the laps of the glass without admitting any through the ventilators ; 
but modern structures are so much improved in close fitting lights and 
large panes of glass that it is necessary to admit air when the sun is 
powerful and the external air keen, and the thing to aim at is a sweet 
atmosphere without giving a check. Tie the Vines in position as soon 
as growth has well commenced, and before the shoots are so long as to- 
be liable to be damaged in the process. Add fermenting materials to- 
the bed, so as to maintain the heat about the pots at 70° to 75 . These 
will give out a genial moisture and some ammonia, and are far better 
than evaporating troughs kept charged with the drainage of stables or 
cowhouses, or guano water, 1 lb. to 20 gallons of water. The house 
requires sprinkling with water two or three times a day in bright 
weather, avoiding a very moist and stagnant atmosphere. Disbudding 
need not be practised until the bunches show in the joints of the shoots, 
the extra foliage encouraging the formation of roots, and the superfluous 
growths being gradually removed the sap will be diverted into and 
strengthen those which are left. _ 
Houses to Afford Grapes in May .—The Vines to supply Grapes- 
in May should be well established in inside borders, and have ripened 
the growth early so as to allow of their being pruned and given a few 
weeks’ rest before starting, which must not be further delayed to have 
fruit ripe at the time named. The outside border, if any, should have 
the needful protection from frost, a few inches thickness of dry leaves, 
with a little litter sufficing to prevent the soil being chilled by cold 
rains and snow. If the roots of the Vines are outside the border should 
be covered with two-thirds of leaves to one of stable litter, mixed, and 
moistened so as to promote fermentation, and give a mild, lasting- 
warmth. This must be added to from time to time, removing some of 
the spent material, so as to maintain its warmth through the winter, or it 
does more harm than good. The inside borders should be brought into a 
thoroughly moist condition by applying tepid water, and in the case of 
weakly Vines supply liquid manure at a temperature of 80°. Start with 
a night temperature of 55° and 65° by day, unless the weather is severe, 
when 55° will suffice until the buds commence swelling, but young 
Vines will require the higher temperature to induce them to 6tart 
