December 1, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
493 
promptly. If a bsd of leaves and stable litter can be placed on the 
floor of the house, and turned daily, the moisture and warmth will 
contribute to a good break, and save fuel. Maintain rather a moist 
atmosphere by syringing the Vines two or three times a day. The rods 
of young Vines should be depressed to a horizontal line, or below it, to 
insure the regular breaking of the buds. 
Succ* nion House .—The Vines that are to be started at the new 
year t. afford ripe Grapes in June will have been pruned some weeks 
b.uk and kept cool and dry, but if it has been delayed it should be 
attended to at once, dressing the cuts with knotting or French polish. 
The latter stops bleeding, but the house should be kept cool so as to 
I' ruse the sap to recede rather than flow with the warmth. Dress the 
Vines after thoroughly cleansing the house, and supply a top-dressing of 
loam, with some enriching material, after removing the loose surface 
soil. Midseason Vines from which the Grapes have been cut should be 
pruned. If any Grapes are still hanging they may be cut and placed in 
bottles of clear rain water in a cool dry room, where they will keep 
much better than on the Vines, especially where there are plants in the 
house, and air cannot be freely admitted on their account. It is a 
decided advantage to prune the Vines directly the leaves have fallen, 
as it secures to them a long period of rest, and any circulation of the 
sap is concentrated on the primary buds, so that they start promptly at 
the proper time. In pruning adhere to the practice that has proved 
satisfactory. Vines in good condition will usually give sufficiently large 
bunches if pruned to one, or at most two eyes, and bunches of 1 lb. to 
2 lbs. weight are generally more in demand for home use than larger, as 
it is essential that the table be supplied with fresh fruit. If larger bunches 
are required, or the Vine 3 from weakness do not afford bunches so large 
as desired, leave more growth, only take care to select sound, round, well 
developed buds on firm well-ripened wood. Dress the Vines, merely 
removing the loose bark, cleanse the house thoroughly, and put every¬ 
thing into proper order, so that there need be no hurry and badly per¬ 
formed work at starting time. Light and cleanliness are important 
factors in Grape cultivation. 
Late Houses .—Every precaution should be taken against damp. The 
weather has been very unfavourable to the keeping of thin-skinned 
Grapes, and still continues to be disastrous to such as have to be kept in 
houses that have flat and leaky roofs. Thin-skinned Grapes are much 
better cut and bottled, especially where there are plants in the house, as 
they keep capitally in any spare room that is cool and dry, it only being 
necessary to exclude frost and look the Grapes over occasionally for the 
removal of decayed berries. 
Late Muscats require a warmer and drier atmosphere than other 
kinds of Grapes, the temperature needing to be kept at 50°, and the 
atmosphere not allowed to become stagnant, but be freely ventilated 
whenever the weather is favourable. When the weather is dull and damp 
gentle warmth in the hot-water pipes will be necessary to keep the 
atmosphere moving and expel the damp, taking care not to allow the 
temperature to be raised by natural means without giving air, otherwise 
the moisture will be condensed on the cooler surfaces of the Grapes. 
Remove all leaves as they become ripe, and strip the Vines of any as yet 
green laterals, but allow the main leaves to fall naturally. All the 
thick-skinned varieties are best allowed to remain on the Vines until the 
new year, as they improve in quality by maturing perfectly on the Vines, 
especially those having an earthy flavour, as Gros Colman. Sufficient 
fire heat to maintain a temperature of 40° to 45° is essential, closing the 
house in damp weather, and secure as far as possible a dry, cool 
atmosphere and equable temperature. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Forcing Asparagus. —In but few instances are permanent beds, 
with sunk pits and pigeon-holed walls between, available for forcing, 
the usual practice being to lift the roots and force them as required. To 
be certain of good early produce, ready say for Christmas, the start 
should be made at once, anything in the shape of hard forcing having 
an extremely weakening effect upon Asparagus. A dry heat is especially 
objectionable, though if a fairly deep heated pit can be had this will be 
found admirably adapted for the purpose. In this place a moderately 
deep hotbed, largely composed of leaves, or stable manure if this only is 
available, taking care to well prepare the latter by previously fermenting 
and turning it two or three times, a violent bottom heat being liable to 
cook the roots. On the surface of the bed spread about 4 inches, or 
rather more, of rich moist soil, and if there are no signs of the over¬ 
heating place the Asparagus roots on this at once. The latter should be 
fairly strong, the oldest or most nearly exhausted bed being broken up 
for the purpose of procuring the requisite quantity of roots. Take every 
care of these, breaking them needlessly and unduly exposing to cold dry 
winds being most unwise. Pack them closely together, two or three 
lights being none too many at one time, and then cover with 4 inches of 
fine rich soil. It is a mistake to use poor dry soil, and but little of that. 
Let the roots have some rich moist soil to support them, fresh root fibres 
soon forming in this, and also a sufficient covering of it to ensure a good 
length of blanched stem before the shoots are cut or twisted off. Keep 
a gentle heat in the pipes, and also cover the lights with mats. 
Asparagus can also be forced readily enough in ordinary frames on mild 
hotbeds, the treatment being much as advised in the case of pits. 
Beginners are warned that forced roots are of no further value, and it is 
therefore most unwise to break up a permanent bed unless it can well 
be spared. Where Asparagus is regularly and systematically forced an 
old bed is broken up every winter and a new one formed in the spring 
to eventually take the place of those destroyed. 
The Mushroom House. —Whilst mild weather lasts little or no 
fire heat should be turned on to the Mushroom house. Too much heat 
weakens the beds, and so also do constant daily syringings applied to 
counteract the injurious effect of fire heat. A temperature of from 
50° to 55° answers well for Mushrooms, more especially when the beds 
are in full bearing. If it is desirable that late spawned beds should be 
hastened somewhat then may the heat be increased another 5° or 10° 
with advantage. Supposing fire heat has been very sparingly applied 
if at all hitherto, then there has been no necessity for repeated damp¬ 
ings and syringings. When fire heat dries the floor and the walls 
these ought to be damped daily, a damp rather than a dry atmosphere 
being the most favourable to the production of succulent Mushrooms in 
quantity. If the beds are syringed daily these are almost certain to 
become too wet and cold, very many of the tiny Mushrooms that show 
turning brown, softening and failing to make any further progress. 
Wait till the beds are moderately dry, or till the best part of the first 
crop has been cleared off, then remove the mulching material and give 
a gentle yet thorough watering with moderately hot soft water, slightly 
impregnated with salt, 1 oz. of the latter being enough for each gallon 
of water. Return the mulching, adding a little fresh strawy litter if 
needed, and wait for results. Never be in a hurry to break up what 
may appear to be a failure. If such beds are very dry six weeks after 
spawning, then give a gentle watering, otherwise let them alone. It 
cannot be too often pointed out how unwise it is to cut Mushrooms, 
leaving the stumps in the bed to decay and spread a destructive mould 
or fungus all round. Twist single Mushrooms clean out, and remove 
large clusters with the roots in a mass, filling up the holes thus caused 
with fresh loam. Thus treated the beds remain productive much 
longer than otherwise would be the case, and there is no sacrifice in 
removing large clusters at one time, cooks making good use of buttons 
as well as other sizes of Mushrooms. 
Forming- Fresh Mushroom Beds. —Beds formed now will most 
probably yield very acceptable crops next spring, if not earlier. Well 
prepare the material by frequent turnings and carefully ward off heavy 
rains or snow, an excess of moisture in the manure not being easily got 
rid of at this time of year, and the steam in over-moist beds proves fatal 
to any spawn inserted in it. Form the beds rather deeper than usual, or 
say fully 18 inches deep at the back with a slight fall to the front, and 
spawn directly the heat declines to about 85°. If there is any risk of 
over-heating delay soiling over for a few days, and should there be much 
steam in the bed let this escape through deep holes made at short 
intervals over the bed. Oak leaves being plentiful, and horse droppings 
somewhat scarce, form a solid bed 3 feet in depth of the former, and on 
this place a layer of prepared droppings 6 inches deep. Make the latter 
firm and spawn similarly to beds formed wholly of manure, soiling over 
and other details being the same. The leaves will generate a geutle and 
sweet heat, and a good crop of Mushrooms most probably be had in due 
course. Hotbeds of leaves and manure formed under a bed that requires 
hastening will soon have the desired effect, and be less injurious toother 
beds than would be the case if extra fire heat was turned on for a 
similar purpose. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Nepenthes. —These should not be allowed to hang too close to the 
glass, or they may become seriously checked when severe weather sets 
in. They will be safe at 18 inches or 2 feet from the roof. Do not 
allow these plants to suffer by an insufficient supply of water at their 
roots, also keep them liberally syringed. If this is not done thrips are 
liable to attack them at this season of the year, now that the atmosphere 
of the stove is kept much drier. 
Cyanophyllum magnlflcum.— This plant is very liable to become 
infested with thrips, and if this is allowed the noble foliage is soon 
destroyed. Place the plants at the shadiest part of the house, where 
they can be freely syringed and a fair amount of moisture maintained. 
If thrips do attack the foliage dew or syringe the plants with a weak 
solution of tobacco water, and maintain a sharp look-out for the pest. 
Sphajrogyne latifolia requires the same treatment and care. 
Sonerllas. —These charming foliage plants need care to preserve 
them in good condition throughout the winter. If young stock has not 
been prepared for this purpose place the old plants at the warmest end 
of the stove and water them sparingly, or they may damp. Even at 
this late period it is a good plan to strike a few of the growing ends of 
the shoots for fear any of the old plants fail. 
Flttonlas. —Where constant supplies of these are needed during the 
winter and spring for furnishing any shoots that can be spared, or stock 
plants that have cuttings upon them, may betaken off and rooted. These 
cuttings root freely if inserted thickly together in sandy soil and 
placed in the propagating frame in brisk heat. When well rooted the 
plants may be tied up in moss and a little soil, placing them in boxes 
to grow. By this method they can be lifted out with good balls and 
need not be potted ; in fact, if kept moist they will last as long as if 
they were placed in pots. 
Coleus. —Dark and distinct highly coloured tops look well in 2-inch 
pots for the table, also for using with moss and small Ferns at the edge 
of baskets and large vases that have to be kept neatly furnished with 
plants They do not last long in rooms, but are attractive, and small 
specimens will be found very useful. The tops strike freely enough 
when inserted in small pots and placed on a shelf where the temperature 
ranges at about 60° to 65°. Give a good watering after insertion and 
dew the cuttings with the syringe on fine days. _ 
Foliage Begonias. —These when grown in small pots are most 
useful for furnishing, and care should be taken that the stock of these 
plants already prepared do not damp. Keep them in an intermediate 
