December 15, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
539 
Marechal Niel Rose Under Glass (S. S.). —The cause of the 
buda pushing “ blind ” or flowerless shoots, instead of breaking into 
flowers in April and May, is immaturity of the wood and buds, and it is 
somewhat late now to effect the transformation of the wood into flower 
buds. A sudden check would do it most effectually, such as root- 
pruinng ; but that is a dangerous expedient to practise on Bose trees 
that cover large areas, and is only advised in moderation and with great 
care, for if done excessively, though the plants may give a large crop of 
flowers, they are generally so exhausted as to make little growth afcer- 
wards. We advise the removal of the soft growths to wood becoming 
somewhat ripe, and giving all the light and air possible, but excluding 
frost. Withhold water from the roots, but _ do not allow the soil to 
become so dry as to cause the soft wood to shrivel. 
Vines with Boose Bunches (Amateur').— When the bunches are 
unsatisfactory pruned on the close or spur system there is necessity for 
chano-e, and you could not do better than prune to the best bud—the 
“round and plump ” at the third or fourth joint, in preference to those 
at the base, which are “ small and pointed.” As to the looseness of the 
bunches, that depends in a great measure upon the vigour of the Vines 
and ripeness of the wood. With the wood well ripened compactness of 
bunch'may be relied on from all the eyes or buds, and sometimes gross 
Vines will give loose bunches from the base buds ; but such are rare a3 
compared with bunches from eyes further from the base, which are not 
only very much larger but correspondingly looser, and usually have more 
seedless berries. The chief points to bear in mind are to prune to the 
best buds only where the wood is ripe, not where it is immature ; and to 
pay especial attention to disbudding in the spring to prevent overcrowding 
of the growths and foliage in the summer. 
Pruning Roses when Planting ( J, , S.). —We should not hesitate 
to shorten the very long growth, reducing them about half, though we 
know they are often left uncut till spring, and Roses thus left unpruned, 
say till April, have grown very well, though we have also known some to 
fail. The difference may be attributable to the weather. Should the 
air be very dry over a long period, as it often is in February or March, 
when easterly winds prevail, the longer the shoots are the greater the 
evaporating surfaces, and consequently the greater the escape of the 
juices from the plants, at a time when the roots are inactive, and cannot 
absorb moisture from the soil to compensate for the loss. When Roses 
are dug up and planted in October and November they may commence 
rooting at once, and can then imbibe moisture to meet the demands of 
evaporation ; but when planted now, and onwards, we suspect the root3 
remain dormant till the spring, and on this account we should shorten 
the branches as the safest course to adopt in conserving the moisture in 
the lower part of the stems. If a Rose tree is dug up in October, before 
the leaves fall, the moisture escapes from them, and the stems shrivel, 
but if most of the leaves are cut off the evaporating surface is reduced, 
and the stems remain fresh. But, observe, we should only “ half prune ” 
now, shortening more closely in spring after the buds push from near the 
tops of the shoots, and if they grow an inch or more no harm is done by 
their removal. 
Forming a Bed of I.ily of the Valley (S. F.). —Select a piece of 
good ground in a border, with a west aspect preferably, or an east 
border will do. Trench the ground, keeping the good soil on the top, 
and mix a dressing of decayed manure—say 3 inches thickness—with 
the top foot of the soil. Planting should be performed just before 
growth commences in spring, and the crowns placed together in theii 
sizes, say three : 1, the largest; 2, the medium ; 3, the smallest. If the 
soil is light, firm it well before planting, similar to an Onion bed, by 
treading, and have the surface fine and even. In planting a shallow 
trench should be cut out, the crowns placed upright in it, about 2 mcles 
apart, so that their points are just below the surface, which ought to be 
smooth and fine. Cut out the next trench 9 inches from the first, and 
plant it in a similar maimer, and so proceed, leaving out every sixth 
row, so that the plants will be in beds with an alley between them. The 
large crowns will flower the soonest, the medium the next, and the 
weakest the last, but all will produce good flowers after one or two 
years’ growth if well treated. Keep the surface free from weeds, water 
well in dry weather from the commencement of growth until the leaves 
decay and mulch with about an inch of partially decayed manure before 
dry weather sets in, say early in June. You mention clumps. If you 
desire to lift them for forcing, plant about a dozen crowns in a bunch 
about 4 inches in diameter, 9 inches asunder, and allow 1 foot between 
the rows of clumps, leaving out every fifth row, so that they will be in 
beds, and the alleys render cultural operations more easy. The large 
crowns in this case will, or ought to, form flowering crowns the first 
year ; the second size should also form good crowns tne first year, and 
be available for lifting in autumn, yet they are better two years old ; 
but the smaller crowns will take two years to become strong enough for 
lifting, potting, and forcing. 
Planting' Violets (C . If.). —The most suitable plants are those 
taken from outdoor-grown stools. The old stools or plants should be 
taken up after flowering, or at the close of April or early in May. It 
will be found that there are plants of two descriptions—viz., runners of 
last year with more or less roots, and suckers that emanate from the 
stem of the plant, some, if not all, of which have roots of their own. 
These two kinds are suitable for immediate planting after being 
detached or separated from the parent. They should have the runner 
wire and any large old leaves removed in trimming prior to planting, 
which will increase the ilength of the stem of the runner and facilitate 
the operation, and suckers should be treated similar 1 y in respect of the 
old leaves ; but in each case all the fresh, green, healthy leaves should 
be carefully preserved, and any straggling or long root stem of the 
sucker shortened, preserving, however, a good amount of roots to each. 
Runners are best; the suckers, however, are good, but it is perhaps best to 
keep each separate— i.e., plant the runners and suckers separately. In any 
case they must be kept as much out of the sun as possible until planted, 
it being a good plan to lay them as prepared in wet moss up to the 
collar. Plant the large-leaved or stronger-growing varieties 1 foot apart 
every way, whether the plants are put three or seven in a group, in 
threes or sevens, the circles being respectively 1 foot, 2 feet, and 3 feet 
across, and the arrangement equi-distant. The dwarfer varieties will be 
accommodated with a distance of 9 inches between the plants. The 
ground should be made firm by treading when the weather is dry. 
Choose moist weather if possible for planting, and place the plant so 
as to leave the centre clear of the soil after it is pressed down about 
the roots as it should be rather firmly, or as firm as the surrounding 
ground. Water at once, and through a rose, so as to settle the soil 
about the roots, which should be repeated each evening until the plants 
become established, to facilitate which a few branches of evergreens 
or twigs of deciduous trees in leaf stuck in the ground on the sun side, 
so as to shade the plants, will be well repaid in the after well-doing of 
the plants. Keep a sharp look out for slugs late in the evening and 
early morning, after or before rain. Dust the plants with quicklime 
late in the evening, which will destroy all it falls upon, and repeat as 
occasion requires. As a preventive a ring of dry soot may be drawn 
around each plant. 
Names of Plants. —We only undertake to name species of plants, 
not varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm boxes. 
Slightly damp moss, soft green grass or leaves form the best packing, 
dry wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at 
once, and the numbers should be visible without untying the ligature?, 
it being often difficult to separate them when the paper is damp. 
(F F.). —1, Lavendula dentata ; 2, Pilea muscosa ; 3, Tradescantia 
multicolor ; 4, Francoa ramosa ; 5, Imantophyllum (Olivia) miniatum : 
6, Lachenalia, species not determinable without flowers. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— December 14th. 
Trade slow, good supplies with no alteration in prices. 
FRUIT. 
Apples, half sieve 
Grapes, per lb. 
Beans, Kidney, per lb. 
Beet, Red, dozen .. .. 
Carrots, bunch .. .. 
Cauliflowers, dozen .. 
Celery, bundle .. .. 
Cucumbers, dozen 
Endive, dozen .. 
Herbs, bunch 
Lettuce, dozen .. 
Mushrooms, punnet 
s. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
i 
0 to 3 
6 
Lemons, case . 
15 
0 to 60 
0 
per 
Oranges, per 100 .. .. 
4 
0 
9 
0 
12 
0 
17 
0 
Peaches, per dozen .. .. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
lbs. 
0 
0 
100 
0 
St. Michael Pines, each .. 
3 
0 
6 
0 
0 
6 
2 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
S. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
S. 
d. 
0 
6 
to 0 
0 
Mustard and Cress, punnet 
0 
2 to 0 
0 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Onions, bunch . 
0 
3 
0 
5 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Parsley, dozen bunches .. 
2 
0 
3 
0 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Parsnips, dozen . 
1 
0 
0 
0 
1 
0 
1 
3 
Potatoes, per cwt . 
2 
0 
5 
0 
es 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Salsafy, bundle . 
1 
0 
i 
6 
1 
6 
3 
6 
Scorzonera, bundle .. .. 
1 
6 
0 
0 
1 
3 
1 
6 
Seakale, per basket .. .. 
3 
0 
0 
0 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Shallots, per lb. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Spinach, bushel .. .. .. 
3 
0 
3 
6 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Tomatoes, per lb. 
0 
2 
0 
6 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Turnips, bunch. 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Lilium longiflorum 12 
blooms . 
Lilium (var.) doz. blooms 
Lily of the Valley, 12 sprays 
Maidenhair Fern, doz. bchs. 
Marguerites, 12 bunches .. 
Mignonette, 12 bunches .. 
Mimosa, French, per bunch 
AVERAGE WHOLESALE PRICES.—OUT FLOWERS. 
Orchid Blooms in variety. 
Orchids, per dozen blooms 
Pelargoniums, 12 bunches 
Pelargoniums, scarlet, doz. 
bunches. 
Poinsettia, per bloom 
Primula (double) 12 sprays 
Pyrethrum doz. bunches .. 
0 Roses (French), per doz. .. 
0 „ „ boxes, 100. 
0 „ (indoor), dozen 
„ Red, per doz. blooms.. 
0 „ Tea, white, dozen .. 
„ Veliow, dozen .. .. 
12 0 Tuberoses, 12 blooms.. .. 
5 0 Violets, Parme, French, per 
10 0 bunch . 
6 0 Violets, Czar, French, per 
4 0 bunch . 
6 0 Violets, Victoria, French, 
1 6 dozen bunches .. .. 
s. 
d. 
S. 
Arum Lilies, 12 blooms .. 
3 
0 
to 6 
Bouvardias, bunch .. 
0 
6 
0 
Carnations, 12 blooms 
Chrysanthemums, dozen 
blooms . 
1 
0 
3 
1 
6 
4 
Chrysanthemums, dozen 
bunches. 
6 
0 
12 
Eucharis, dozen. 
3 
0 
6 
Gardenia's, per dozen 
2 
0 
4 
Hyacinth, Roman, 12 sprays 
0 
9 
1 
Lilac, white, French, per 
bunch . 
4 
6 
6 
s. d. s. d. 
3 0 to 12 0 
8 0 12 0 
1 6 
5 0 
8 0 
2 0 
2 0 
2 0 
4 0 
0 9 
3 0 4 0 
2 0 
1 6 
2 6 
2 6 
PLANTS IN POTS. 
Arbor Vitae (golden) dozen 
Begonia, per dozen .. 
Chrysanthemums, per doz. 
„ large plants, each 
Oupressus, large plants,each 
Dracaena terminalis, dozen 18 
„ viridis, dozen .. 
Euonvmus, var., dozen .. 
Evergreens, in var., dozen 
Ferns, in variety, dozen .. 
„ (small) per hundred 
d. s. d. 
0 to 12 0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
0 
12 0 
9 0 
3 0 
5 0 
42 0 
24 0 
18 0 
21 0 
18 0 
8 0 
Ficus eiastica, each .. .. 
Foliage plants, var., each.. 
Heliotrope, per dozen 
Lycopodiums, per dozen .. 
Marguerite Daisy, dozen .. 
Mignonette, per dozen 
Myrtles, dozen. 
Palms, in var., each .. .. 
„ (specimens) .. .. 
Pelargoniums, scarlet, doz. 
Primula, single, doz. pots 
Solanums, per dozen .. .. 
s. d. s. d. 
1 6 to 10 6 
2 0 10 0 
6 0 
6 0 
6 0 
1 0 
21 0 
6 0 
4 0 
9 0 
9 0 
4 0 
12 0 
12 0 
9 0 
15 0 
63 0 
3 0 
6 0 
12 0 
