248 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 15, 1892. 
a group of early flowering Chrysanthemums, Asters, and foliage plants 
by Mr. W. K. Woodcock ; a group of large specimen Zonal Pelargoniums 
and Coleus by Mr. H. Rogers, Gipsy Lane Nurseries, Leicester; a group 
of Palms, foliage plants, cut Delphiniums, Phloxes, and a tray of vege¬ 
tables by Mr. H. Bell, the Hon. Sec. ; Dahlias by Mr. G. Perkins, 
Birstall Lane Nurseries, and Mr. Jas. Wright, Granby Street; also a fine 
box of Comet Asters by Mr. H. Rogers. 
The Show was formally opened at 2 p.m. by Mr. Alderman Kempson 
in the unavoidable absence of the Mayor, who had undertaken the duty. 
During the afternoon papers were read on the “ History and Culture of 
the Dahlia” by Mr. W. Bell, F.R.H.S., and on the “Early Flowering 
Chrysanthemum ” by Mr. W. K. Woodcock, F.R.H.S. Chairman, Mr. 
Councillor Collins. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Preparing: Ground for Planting:— The importance of making 
a good start when fruit culture is contemplated ought to be impressed 
on everyone at the present time of the year. The actual work of 
planting fruit trees is not laborious when every preparatory detail has 
been carefully worked out beforehand at the proper time. The first 
object for careful consideration is the selection of a proper site. Most 
fruit trees like a sunny, open, breezy position, and if such a site can be 
secured with adequate shelter from strong winds, they will succeed, 
provided the soil is suitable. 
Draining Soil .—If situated where the natural drainage is defective 
the land will not grow satisfactory fruit, except perhaps Black Currants; 
and, therefore, after the selection of a site, the proper draining of the 
soil is the next important matter to be dealt with in the preliminary 
preparations. If a sure test of its condition is needed, dig a hole 3 feet 
deep in some part of the land selected, allowing it to remain open for 
some time. If, in the course of a short period water collects in the hole 
from the surrounding subsoil, then draining will be absolutely necessary, 
but if little or none finds its way there the artificial draining will not 
be needed. 
Deep Cultivation ancl Manuring .—Trenching is of great advantage 
to the generality of soils if performed in the right manner. This 
consists of not bringing to the surface a large bulk of inert hungry 
subsoil and disposing the better surface soil below, but rather in moving 
it to the depth of 2 feet without materially altering the position of the 
surface, which is generally considered to be the best. If very poor 
indeed it may be desirable to add well decayed manure during the 
process of trenching, but ordinarily fertile soil that will grow good 
vegetables will also grow good fruit without adding manure during 
digging operations, and too much of this forces rank, sappy growth! 
Manure is best applied to fruit trees from the surface. 
Soil .—The most generally useful soil for fruit trees is a strong loam, 
slightly approaching to marl or clay. Stone fruit trees require it more 
of a calcareous nature, or made so by the addition of lime. A somewhat 
firm soil being an essential in fruit culture early preparation affords 
time for a deeply moved plot of ground to become consolidated by the 
time the planting period arrives. Land laying rather low, not 
absolutely waterlogged, yet sufficiently damp to militate against satis¬ 
factory remits being attained, may be improved by being laid up in wide 
ridges, so as to raise it above the original level. In damp situations 
stations are also formed in a similar manner for each tree, 6 or 8 feet 
in diameter usually proving sufficient. The advantage of early prepara¬ 
tion of the ground affords the opportunity of doing the work well, when 
the weather is finer and the soil drier than is sometimes the case in late 
autumn. It also gives the planter the means of selecting the time for 
placing in the trees at an earlier period when the weather is favourable 
for the work. Hurried preparation of the ground and hasty planting 
in probably damp weather, when the soil impedes the free use of the 
tools and attaches itself to the boots, is never satisfactory. It is even 
more important that the borders in front of walls intended for fruit 
trees should be prepared early, because of the sinking of the ground 
which follows deep stirring. 
Lifting- and Root-pruning.— Irregularity in crops of fruit is 
often followed by superabundant growth, and consequently further 
unfruitfu'ness. This can often be remedied by careful lifting and 
replanting, or if not root-pruning is often a remedy and always a check to 
strons: growth. The present is a very favourable time to note the trees, 
observing the tendencies they have in the way of wood growth. 
Restricted trees disposed to make much secondary growth after being 
duly stopped since the summer pruning or pushing strong growths from 
latent buds in various parts of the trees would be benefited by lifting 
and replanting if small in size, and by root-pruning if of large 
proportions. The operation, however, need not, in fact should not, be 
done at present, unless very carefully or only partially operated upon. 
Strawberries.—The season being favourable for the abundant 
rooting of strawberry runners, which have been left between the plants, 
these, if carefully lifted and planted now on good ground, will grow 
vigorously, and almost certainly produce a good crop of fruit next year. 
The ground between earlier planted runners may be kept freely hoed in 
intervals of dry weather to destroy seedling weeds. In many cases 
Strawberry beds containing established plants are much neglected from 
the time the fruit is gathered until late in autumn, when a wholesale 
clearance of runners and weeds is effected. This is a great disadvantage, 
because the main crowns are deprive! of support as well as light and 
air by the rank growth of runners. All such should be cleared away 
forthwith, so that the crowns of the main stools may become plump 
and strong before growth ceases. By this means severe winters have 
les3 effect upon the plants, and they start strongly again in the spring, 
although the old foliage may have been severely crippled by the winteris 
frosts. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines.— Young Vines .—These should have every encouragement 
essential to the perfecting of their growths, keeping the foliage clean, re¬ 
moving all laterals, as growth produced after this time is of no value, 
and maintain a warm well ventilated atmosphere until the canes are 
thoroughly ripened. Any supernumeraries intended to fruit heavily 
next season should have the laterals cut away to the principal buds, 
leaving, however, an outlet for any excess of sap by a few joints of 
the laterals beyond the length of cane to which they are to be 
shortened, and be careful not to injure the principal leaves. If the 
wood does not ripen well it may be accelerated by keeping the house 
lather close in the daytime, so as to get a temperature of 85° to 90° 
from sun heat, opening the ventilators at night. Afford sufficient water 
at the roots to prevent the foliage becoming limp. 
Midseason Houses .—When the Grapes have been cleared from the 
Vines divest the shoots of their laterals down to the principal buds 
which are to be retained for next year’s fruiting, but be careful to avoid 
injuring the old leaves, for upon their preservation in health depends 
the maturation and plumping of the buds, also the storing of food in 
the adjacent wood, as well as the ripening of the wood, which is essential 
to a good break and a proper development of the bunches in their early 
stages next season. Allow a free circulation of air, and in the case of 
young or luxuriant Vines, or where there is the least doubt about the 
thorough maturity of the wood, maintain a gentle warmth in the hot- 
water pipes. After the removal of the laterals clear off the remains of 
mulchings or remove the loose surface soil, particularly near the collar 
of the Vines, picking the old soil from amongst the roots, and supply 
fresh lumpy loam in its place. Avoid burying the roots deeply, a couple 
of inches is deep enough. They will push adventitious roots into the 
new material, and these can be encouraged to any extent by timely 
surface dressings or light mulchings when the Vines are in need of 
support another season. If a handful of steamed bonemeal is sprinkled 
on each square yard of border, and double the quantity near the stems, 
it will aid the Vines wonderfully in the early stages of growth another 
year. Inside borders will need watering so as to ke p the soil health¬ 
fully moist. Outside borders should have the benefit of October rains, 
and may be covered with 3 or 4 inches of dry leaves in November, 
with a little litter over them. In the case of borders that are only 
partly made a breadth of about 2 feet may be added to the front, 
choosing dry weather for the operation, and compressing the materials 
moderately. If inside afford a good watering, if outside it will not be 
necessary unless the compost is dry ; cover up in due time as before 
advised. 
Late Muscats .—These require fire heat until they are thoroughly 
ripe, with a free circulation of air in the daytime, and enough at night, 
with gentle warmth in the pipes, to insure a circulation of air and to 
prevent the deposition of moisture on the berries, being careful to 
admit air rather freely on fine mornings. Continue this until the Grapes 
are thoroughly finished, when a gradual reduction of temperature may 
be made to about 50° at night, but there must not be any hurry in this, 
as the Grapes put on colour long after they appear finished, and improve 
in quality so long as there are any leaves on the Vines. Keep the 
border moist by watering as necessary in the early part of a fine day, 
for though the leaves become yellow at the edges they have green parts 
more or less that are useful in assimilating and storing food. Moisture 
must be kept down by free ventilation ; it is pent-up air with a sudden 
increase of temperature from sun in the early part of the day, or at any 
time, which causes moisture to condense on the berries and produce spot, 
when the berries speedily decay. 
Late Grapes .—The thick-skinned Grapes are not so fastidious as 
regards moisture as the thin-skinned Muscats (Canon Hall and Muscat 
of Alexandria), for Mrs. Pince Muscat will shrivel in a house where there 
is sufficient moisture to cause Muscat of Alexandria to rot. They are 
also liable to give evidence of finish that will not bear close examina¬ 
tion, therefore make sure that the berries are well finished quite up to 
the shank before ceasing the needful aid from fire heat. Mrs. Pince’s 
is perhaps the worst to finish of all Grapes, and unless it is thoroughly 
ripened it is sure to shrivel. Alicante and Lady Downe’s finish better 
and in less time than Gros Guillaume and Gros Colman, therefore the 
latter should be given more time; also the white varieties, Syrian and 
Trebbiano, and after they are apparently finished a temperature of 55° 
should be assured, with a rise of 5° to 10° by day and a circulation of 
air until the foliage is giving indications of falling, when a temperature 
of 50° is sufficient. The inside borders should be watered in the early 
part of a fine day and air be freely admitted, for it is not so much the 
moisture as its confinement that causes berries to crack. Outside borders 
will be quite damp enough, and should be covered later on with spare 
lights to throw off heavy rains. 
Late Hamburghs .—Houses of these that were a’lowed 'o start 
