September 15, 1892. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
240 
naturally will perhaps need a little fire heat to colour and finish the 
Grapes satisfactorily, as they will when it is hopeless to do anything 
more with the thick-skinned varieties. They should have a temperature 
of 60° to 65° at night and 70° to 75° in the daytime, with a circulation 
of air constantly and free ventilation when favourable. Water the 
inside border if necessary, and the Grapes are only partially advanced 
in ripening. Only restrict the laterals to prevent overcrowding, as a 
good spread of foliage over thin-skinned black Grapes is the best safe¬ 
guard against the sun taking colour out of them when ripe. When the 
Grapes are ripe gradually reduce the temperature, maintaining it at 
about 50° by artificial means by day and 5° less at night, with a little 
air constantly. 
Cucumbers.— Autumn Fruiters .—These must have every attention 
as regards affording copious supplies of liquid manure, removing super¬ 
fluous laterals so as to guard against an overcrowded condition of the 
growths, taking off surplus fruits, male flowers, and tendrils, avoiding 
overcropping, and not allowing the fruit to remain on the plants after 
it becomes fit for use. It will keep several days in a cool place with 
the neck end stood in a saucer of water. Secure a genial atmosphere 
by damping available surfaces other than the plants in the morning, 
afternoon, and evening, syringing the plants lightly early in the after¬ 
noon of fine days. Train and regulate the growths about twice a week, 
pinching the la'erals or shoots one or two joints beyond the show of 
fruit, and retain no more foliage than can have full exposure to light. 
Supply water as required, that and liquid manure being of the same 
temperature as the house. To encourage growth earth up the roots as 
they show at the sides of the hillocks or ridges, only just covering up 
the roots each time of their showing, the soil having been placed in the 
house so as to become warmed through before use. 
Winter Fruiters .—If these have not been planted out no time should 
he lost in effecting it, or if the house is not ready shift the plants into 
large pots and keep them growing near the glass in a temperature of 
70 Q at night and 75° by day, with an advance of 10° to 15° from sun 
heat. If fermenting material is used for bottom heat it should be in 
preparation by throwing it into a heap, damping and turning the heap 
over to induce fermentation and the dissipation of noxious gases before 
making up the beds. Bottom heat, however, is better supplied by hot- 
water pipes surrounded and covered with rubble or placed in a chamber 
under the bed. 
Pits and Frames .—The temperature should be maintained at about 
65° at night by renovating the linings as necessary and placing night 
coverings over the lights to prevent too great a reduction of the heat. 
Keep the foliage thin by removing bad leaves and exhausted 
growths, and close early in the afternoon so as to husband as much 
of the sun’s heat as possible. Afford water only at the roots to keep 
the foliage from flagging, and sprinkle the plants overhead only on fine 
days and soon after noon. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Camellias.— These will bear stronger insecticides without injury 
now than at any other period of their growth. If scale or other insects 
exist upon them they should be thoroughly washed with a solution of 
petroleum and water at the rate of 1 oz. of the former to each gallon 
of the latter. Every portion of the tree should be well soaked and the 
trees shaded from bright sunshine for two or three days afierwards. If 
any traces of insects are left the application should be repeated in about 
a fortnight. After the trees are thoroughly cleaned expose them to full 
light and sunshine to harden and ripen their wood. This is necessary 
if the flower buds are to remain on and develop satisfactorily at the 
proper time. Abundance of air should be given both day and night, and 
the syringe should be used freely. Keep the plants moist, and if con¬ 
fined at their roots, or growing in poor soil, weak stimulants should be 
given every time they need water. When the flower buds are swelling 
the plants are rooting freely and need feeding more than is necessary 
during any other period of their growth. Occasional doses of soot water in 
a clear state are very beneficial and impart a fine dark hue to the foliage. 
Azaleas. —Plants that are to flower early and have been standing 
outside should be housed at once. Before doing so, however, clean the 
house in which they are to be arranged thoroughly. If any thrips 
exist upon the plants they should be well washed over a tank with a 
solution of tobacco water, using 1 oz. of softsoap to four gallons, 
and adding a piece of common washing soda the size of a cob nut. The 
old stock, in whatever stage of growth the plants may be, should also be 
washed if infested with insects. Every effort should be made to stamp 
out thrips at this season of the year ; if any are left upon the plants 
they increase rapidly after they are introduced into the forcing house. 
Those plants that have not been repotted may have their last applica¬ 
tion of Standen’s or other favourite manure applied to the surface of the 
soil. When the plants are housed, arrange them, if possible, on a 
moisture-holding base, do not allow the plants to become dry, and 
syringe them freely. Any plants that are trained and need tying 
should be attended to as opportunity offers, so that the foliage will have 
ample time to turn to the light before the approach of winter. It is a 
mistake to leave this operation until the dark short days arrive. 
Greenhouse Rhododendrons. — These useful plants are very 
subject to thrips, and if any exist upon them the insects should be 
eradicated at once, or the bold fine foliage will soon be destroyed. The 
solution advised for Azaleas will do very well. Where the plants have 
been grown fully exposed to the sun their wood will be firm, and the 
flower buds swelling rapidly. Keep the plants moist at the roots and 
syringe them freely. This treatment will not induce them to start into 
growth again after the flower buds have formed. One of the most 
useful of this class is Princess Koyal, which will yield its choice pink 
flowers over a period of six months. 
Hpacris. —Expose these to full sunshine, and protect them, if grown 
in frames, from heavy autumn rains. The lights should be thrown off 
whenever the weather is favourable. When the plants are housed stand 
them on ashes, give plenty of air, and syringe freely. 
Heaths. —Softwooded kinds will be forming their flower buds, and 
on no account should they be allowed to become dry at their roots. If 
this takes place the flower buds may fail to come forward. Unless 
abundance of air is given Erica autumnalis is very liable to be attacked 
by mildew. During dull, damp weather watch for mildew on the different 
hardwooded varieties. At this season it need not be feared if abundance 
of air is given, except during spells of dull, damp weather. Those that 
have finished their growth may be tied and restaked if they need it, while 
those that are still growing must be left until later in the season. 
Mignonette_ The last sowing should be made in 5-inch pots for 
spring flowering. Those sown some time ago and large enough should 
be liberally thinned. Too many plants should not be left in each pot, 
or they will grow weakly during the winter. Keep the blooms removed 
from those that are to flower when outside supplies fail. Do not allow 
the plants to become dry, and give them abundance of air. 
Cyclamens.— These may still be repotted if they have not already 
been placed in the flowering size. If the plants to be repotted are 
throwing up flowers they should be removed. Sow seed in heat for 
next season’s supply of plants. Late-sown plants established in thumbs 
may be placed into 3-inch pots. Grow the plants fully exposed to the 
sun. Give air liberally to insure sturdy growth. 
APIARIAN NOTES. 
The Punic Bee Controversy. 
Mr. T. W. Cowan threatens us with an action for libel 
because his name has appeared in articles on Punic bees, which 
bees he has publicly condemned both in this country and America. 
On requesting Mr. Cowan to specify the articles to which he 
objects, he refers us to “those from ‘A Hallamshire Bee-keeper’ 
and 1 A Lanarkshire Bee-keeper ’ since the beginning of this 
year,” so that, from his point of view, the whole of those 
articles are libellous. That is not our opinion, or they would 
not have been published. Both those writers have had expe¬ 
rience with the so-called Punic bees. We have had no such 
experience, and have therefore neither condemned nor re¬ 
commended them ; and it is obviously requisite that the 
experience of persons should be published who have found the 
bees valuable or the reverse, with the grounds on which such 
experience is based, in order that the public may be able to form 
their conclusions on the subject. We have not suppressed any 
matter that has been sent to us in which these bees have been 
adversely referred to. Mr. Cowan thinks it right to condemn the 
bees, and to that we have not the slightest objection, but it surely 
follows that others who keep these bees have an equal right to 
defend them if they feel justified in doing so. We are ready 
to publish further experience on these bees, whether it is in their 
favour or not. 
Bees at the Heather. 
We have reached the 9th of September, and for a month past 
one fine day is all our bees have had. For two days we have 
experienced a calm, the first time for several months. The Heather 
being late is still in good bloom ; but sunshine is so rare, and the 
moisture in the earth and the atmosphere is so great, chat with the 
low temperature little or no honey is secreted in the flowers. If 
fine weather would continue for a few days the bees might still, 
although out of season, gather a fair quantity of honey. 
A Brief Review of the Season. 
The early spring was extremely ungenial. The first week in 
April was quite spring-like, but after that the weather was of an 
arctic character, being bitterly cold but dry. The first week in 
May was a slight improvement, giving promise of better times ; 
but on the 7th of that month a change for the worse took place, 
and from then till now there have been only three genuine bee 
days for full working. Young queens hatched early in June did 
not show young bees till the 7ch day of September. 
The greatest flood in the memory of man fell on the evening 
and morning of the 28th and 29th of August respectively, and this 
was followed by a frost of 15° on the first mentioned day. On 
the 2nd of September snow and hail lay to a depth of 3 inches 
several miles above my bees, and on the following day the 
hills were white. My bees suffered little or no damage 
